Ok , I guess I'll start one ...

[dougyfresh]

That is so cool.



If you've got decent enough measurements to create accurate cad models you can print a perfect paper template of that end curvature. One of the assembly features is an interference sketch. You can select surfaces or bodies and you should do each. That gives you the interference curves on the leading and trailing edge of the blade when it is in it's nominal closed position.

Copy and paste these profiles into a new sketch or into a drawing document and print out 1:1 scale. Cut the blade to the larger/longer shape. Then lay the shorter on it and color everything remaining with a Sharpie, both sides and the end of the blade too. Then hit the sander and shave the color off while still leaving a stripe down the middle of the edge. That edge can be radiused for longevity.

It should take about 10-15 minutes to go from cad to paper templates. The whole thing should be knocked out in well under an hour. Finished tolerances should be about +/- .010".

Jim, How accurate do you think the finish casting surfaces are inside the turbine housing? Wondering if you can work off a nominal part (if Garrett will supply a nominal 3-D model) and then build in some form of a tolerance to account for casting variation. Then CNC the plate to keep accuracy and precision high (and repeatability!).



Looking awesome Jay!

[silverman]

This is sick, i now have a new goal for my avant!!!

[California Jay]

The tolerance for the Garrett housing will vary slightly... there are three casting locations. Secondly, to keep this accurate and w/o issue from customer to customer you have a few other things to keep in mind- how far does each exhaust mani manufacturer over lap the collector to turbo flange weld? how much is each manifold surfaced? In quick, these two items inparticular can change the flapper design/length and profile.

More to come today... Just finishing up the bracket to hold the actuator in place...

My rat rod to tide you over.

[California Jay]

So, after measuring the amount of throw the actuator will have at "x" psi- I've mounted it to the valve cover..





Also to keep the actuator from going off line from the exhaust path at WOT I've also put a stopper on the outside of the housing.

[AudiA4_20T]

Jay are you making a custom rod from the actulator to the flapper now?

and why is the turbo backwards?

[California Jay]

No... the turbo is exactly how it used to be... turbine passengers side, compressor drivers. The machined surface you see on the turbine, closest to the actuator, is the v-band for the new DP.

The angle the actuator sits on is prependicular to the current "closed" location of the flapper... I put the actuator arm parallel to the flapper inside so I can monitor its exact location during dyno. So as u see it, it is connected. Its quite hard to get a camera in there to see the actuator arm.

[sean1.8t]

and why is the turbo backwards?

it's not. it's called transverse

EDIT eh, i guess i was staring at your work for too long. haha

[AudiA4_20T]

it's not. it's called transverse

Thanks

He posted a picture of a B5 that I thought this was going into... in which case the turbo WOULD be backwards

[dougyfresh]

Thanks

He posted a picture of a B5 that I thought this was going into... in which case the turbo WOULD be backwards

Post 118 says this particular prototype is for a customer's TT. He'll then do something similar on his B5.

[AudiA4_20T]

Post 118 says this particular prototype is for a customer's TT. He'll then do something similar on his B5.

fair enough, must have missed that, I just saw the B5 and thought that was what it was going on

[sean1.8t]

Post 118 says this particular prototype is for a customer's TT. He'll then do something similar on his B5.

thanks dougy. i figured people would be paying attention to every single word in this kind of thread. i know i am

[dougyfresh]

No problem guys.

This is one of my favorite threads on AZ right now. SO much technical info with real-world results.

[sean1.8t]

No problem guys.

This is one of my favorite threads on AZ right now. SO much technical info with real-world results.

yeah, i can imagine you reaching for the lotion everytime jim or jay posts up some of that technical mumbo jumbo

[California Jay]

This thread even gets me excited... beleive it or not it give me more motivation to get things done.. aside from the motivation I get from the end results of any project I do.

Anyways... I hope to get this running today or tomorrow, the dp is almost complete now, I HATE rematching exhaust systems, time consuming to get things re-aligned.

[dougyfresh]

yeah, i can imagine you reaching for the lotion everytime jim or jay posts up some of that technical mumbo jumbo

I don't get that excited.

[AudiA4_20T]

lol Jay I imagined you to be older

[California Jay]

you mean look older... lol.

[onemoremile]

Yeah I figured I could have done that.. I think with the amount of time I would have spent clay filling/profiling/measuring the interior contour of the housing may have been the same time I spent doing the sanding on the flaper you see here..

I'm sure there will be a time again where I can carry this out in another part of the build.

Right on brother - I'd rather get my hands dirty too. Got to spend a few hours today deburring, drilling, and tapping a waterjet piece designed last week. Took 3/8" aluminum plate and needed to drop weight so it got the full triangulation treatment and looks like fully triangulated 3/8" square stock. Went from looking like a shoebox to a like a fully machined mini monster truck chassis.

I thought you were milling the housing to shape the interior walls. Four flat walls with radiused corners. Drop that profile in cad and extrude it a few inches. locate the flapper and that is all it takes to pop out that intersection curve sketch. It took a half dozen times playing with it for it to be of any use though.

This is seriously my favorite thread in a really long time. Big ups yo.

[onemoremile]

Jim, How accurate do you think the finish casting surfaces are inside the turbine housing? Wondering if you can work off a nominal part (if Garrett will supply a nominal 3-D model) and then build in some form of a tolerance to account for casting variation. Then CNC the plate to keep accuracy and precision high (and repeatability!).



Looking awesome Jay!

Garrett has already machined every feature that was important to their design and budget.

Clean up the surface geometry of the housing and the collector and match it to cad or math data. You can make quick castings of the before and after with various substances if you want. My fave involves a baggy filled with expanding foam.

[California Jay]

All done and running.. to the dyno tomorrow! Woot!

You can barely notice the difference cosmetically unless you knew what to look for.

[317ssayzarc]

Dyno tommorrow? Im gonna hold you to that!

[AudiA4_20T]

All done and running.. to the dyno tomorrow! Woot!

You can barely notice the difference cosmetically unless you knew what to look for.

HoW DOES IT SPOOL?!?!?

[bernB5]

wow... so far, the fastest and most successful buildup i've seen on here haha. can't wait to see the results.

[Don Supreme]

Any driving impressions?

[California Jay]

wow... so far, the fastest and most successful buildup i've seen on here haha. can't wait to see the results.

Well things move a bit faster when its a day in and day out thing... plus I'm not quite as swamped with mani orders right now. Don't worry the A4 will probably go slower.

So far the impression is good, w/o being on the dyno its hard to catch when I need to change timing and fuel for the flapper activating. Some of the time on the dyno will just be wasted trying different things.

[317ssayzarc]

Jay...

Dyno, dyno, dyno, dyno, dyno, dyno, dyno!!!!

[blkb6a4]

what he said ^

[t1demont1]

Whats psi is the actuator set to?

[xraycer2012]

^^^ x3, I want to see how this worked out on the dyno. This thread reminds me why I'm a mechanical engineering student, and after reading everything that Doug has said about his job, I'm definitely gonna try to get a co-op at Pratt next year.

[dougyfresh]

SaWEEET!

That picture of the engine bay is beautiful.




xraycer2012 .... Sent you a PM

[317ssayzarc]

Jayyyyyy...

[Kyle H]

Jay...

Dyno, dyno, dyno, dyno, dyno, dyno, dyno!!!!

xELEVETYBILLION!

[California Jay]

I won't be posting until I get this where I want it.... give me some time... plus I'm breaking the engine in a bit. Things are going well though.

[317ssayzarc]

I won't be posting until I get this where I want it.... give me some time... plus I'm breaking the engine in a bit. Things are going well though.

Ok

[kovalevandrew]

How about now...?

[Kyle H]

Aww man, the suspense is killing me. I hope you're a fast tuner or there will be some riots going on over here!

[dougyfresh]

It is relatively easy to fabricate physical hardware.

It is not as easy to tune even if you know what you are doing. Predominately if you are looking for a tune that works in all conditions and all spectrums of the RPM range. Not just WOT.

[on a relative basis, esp for a one-off.. first time out of the gate]

Patience my friends. Good things are coming.

[Poopie]

i check this thread everytime i take a shit....so i check this thread at least 3 times a day

[Kyle H]

fine.

[blkb6a4]

I check this thread everytime I come near a computer!