help me interpret dynosheet

[Jayco88]

Hi guys, well i dyno'd the car for the very first time this last weekend. And I must say I was a little disappointed with the numbers.... 335 torque and 225whp! temperature was around 90 degrees F.

first of all, i have 2 DTC's (no CEL)
17539- bad o2 sensor (b2 s1)
17800- bad camshaft sensor? (b2)

the operator said they did a throttle body adaptation and got no response... and that the car's running rich after 5500 rpm.

can someone please help me interpret the data and find whats going on? i should at least be expecting 270whp right?

could the bad o2 sensor be the culprit? i just ordered an o2 sensor and it's on it's way...

thanks in advance!

BTW the stock intercoolers suck. I lost 30whp by the third run, and I could barely touch them without getting burnt.

VIDEO of the dyno test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stmgcqHrNUY

[highPSI-S4]

Yes it can, that is a primary o2 sensor. Not sure what the camshaft sensor will do but i assume that as well is affecting the car.


on second thought that is a rear 02, get that camshaft sensor replaced.

[RolledMySTi]

You need to replace both those parts. A primary o2 sensor being bad will defiantly cause problems. If you need some help let me know.

[Jung]

yeah the bad 02 makes you boost soooooo slow. i replaced mine, noticed a difference immediately.

[BastardS4]

Y
on second thought that is a rear 02, get that camshaft sensor replaced.

No it isnt, and yes.

[Jayco88]

Anytime something electric needs replacing I always take the part out, clean it, put it back in. It seems that this did the trick for the camshaft sensor ...

I think I've got it figured out:

primary o2's (lambdas) monitor A/F ratios
one o2 is gone so that leaves the ecu blind on one bank.
the ecu goes into a default mode of running rich to stay on the safe side.
poo-poo power for me

please correct me if i'm wrong.

thank you all for the help

[isramirez21]

Anytime something electric needs replacing I always take the part out, clean it, put it back in. It seems that this did the trick for the camshaft sensor ...

I think I've got it figured out:

primary o2's (lambdas) monitor A/F ratios
one o2 is gone so that leaves the ecu blind on one bank.
the ecu goes into a default mode of running rich to stay on the safe side.
poo-poo power for me

please correct me if i'm wrong.

thank you all for the help

excuse me! Where is the camshaft sensor located in an A4 2.8 1996?
Thanks

[Jayco88]

excuse me! Where is the camshaft sensor located in an A4 2.8 1996?
Thanks

if I'm not mistaken it's on the same places on the 2.7
there are two camshaft sensors, one per bank.

-bank 1(passenger side) is on the front of the engine and it's called "hall sender (G163)" in the picture.


-bank 2(driver side) is on the rear of the engine and it's called "hall sender(G40)" in the picture.



***note*** vagcom has the names mixed up. in code 17800 it shows up as: Camshaft Pos. Sensor B2 (G163) , when it should be (G40) , and it's the same problem with the other sensor. Go by the bank number when interpreting vagcom.





hope this helps, it took me a whole 5minutes.

[Mike@Startup]

Do you notice how you go super rich, @ the same time loose a lot of HP?

Change the O2's & find out if the sensor is off, or failing. Your HP will go WAY UP.

If your engine is not in proper tune, you will NEVER get peak HP.

[isramirez21]

if I'm not mistaken it's on the same places on the 2.7
there are two camshaft sensors, one per bank.

-bank 1(passenger side) is on the front of the engine and it's called "hall sender (G163)" in the picture.


-bank 2(driver side) is on the rear of the engine and it's called "hall sender(G40)" in the picture.



***note*** vagcom has the names mixed up. in code 17800 it shows up as: Camshaft Pos. Sensor B2 (G163) , when it should be (G40) , and it's the same problem with the other sensor. Go by the bank number when interpreting vagcom.





hope this helps, it took me a whole 5minutes.

Thank you so much buddy. I really appreciate the help.
I have a gotten two codes which are P1340 and P1392 they are both referring to the camshaft. (thats why my car would just only crank and not start, and sometimes it would start normal) I think I just have to replace that and it would start normal again.

Thanks for the help man

[MissingPixels]

Your camshaft position sensors measure what position your camshafts are in. These sensors usually have a bar attached to them that fits inside the groove at the end of your camshaft (usually intake side) on DOHC vehicles. This bar rotates along with your camshaft and the sensor sends an electronic signal back to your ECU that tells the ECU what position your camshaft is in. DOHC "V" engines will have two of these, one attached to each cylinder head's intake camshaft.

The purpose of these sensors is to tell your ECU what position your camshafts are in so that your ECU can add spark and fuel at the apporiate time. Theses sensors normally work fine on a properly timed engine. A "bad" camshaft position sensor will prevent your car from starting... if your CPS is sending a "bad" signal or NO signal to the ECU, your ECU will not send a signal to your coilpacks to spark or to your fuel injectors to spray fuel.

Since you are getting codes for BOTH camshaft position sensors, I would go ahead and verify your timing marks. Did you just finish a rebuild or recently replace your timing belt? If so, verify your timing. If not, it is possible that your car has "jumped" timing.

While a code for one of your CPS's might indicate a "bad" sensor, the chance of having both fail at the same time is very unlikely. I would check your timing before anything else and go from there.

...

EDIT:

I just saw that your CPS is called a "hall sensor" in the pictures above so it definately works like I described. Oh, and make sure if you took your CPS off to clean it that you put it back in the right way and not "180* or upside down". There should be a mark that lines up with a groove in one end of the bar on the sensor... it needs to be lined up when you are at TDC. The sensor bar can only go one of two ways, correct or 180* off, although usually when it is 180* you won't be able to start your engine or it will run like crap since you'll be getting spark and fuel at the wrong time.

...Oh, and if you did take off the CPS to clean it did you note how it was positioned? Usually, they can swivel a little from side to side where they bolt up. This affects your timing. If you didn't note how it sat, you will need to set your base timing again by grouding your timing clip and using a timing light with some kind of logger (to monitor advance). There are tutorials on how to do this on the net and they are not car specific (except for location of the clip and what pins, if any, to ground on the OBD port).