podi boost gauge installed

[Alkemix]

First question for anyone else who has installed a podi boost gauge... are the thin screws that go under the steering wheel, which requires the long neck T8 torx screw driver to remove, supposed to just slip onto the new podi mount, and not screw in like it did on the stock mount? Cause mine did NOT screw in. They just slid in and i'm praying they hold together. Plus the boot covering that keeps the dust out of the steering column didn't snap on properly on my podi mount. the last clips on each side just barely doesn't have enough clearance. Anyone else experience that? And the power and ground wires on the LED light? Why are they only like 5 inches long? It clearly cannot reach ANYTHING that it requires. If you're gonna sell a product... sell a finished product will ya?

Anyways just installed the podi boost gauge last night. it's the analog gauge, not the stepper gauge and I'm wondering what normal readings would be for bone stock.

On cold starts for my car, it will drop to -10 Hg and then wiggle it's way all the way down to -20 Hg, where it will stay at idle.

When I floor the car it peaks at 10 and it stays up at 10 as long as my foot is on the floor. As soon as I let off the floor even just a little bit, it drops precipitously to 5 psi and hold for a little. If I let off the gas ever so slightly more, then it will drop to 3 or maybe 0.

For more normal driving, it peaks at about 5 and then instantly drops to 3 for half a second and then will drop below 0, while I am still giving gas, but not necessarily accelerating and if I am gaining speed it's not a power acceleration. Would that be normal?

I remember hearing that our cars should peak at 12 stock and I understand that not every car will operate exactly at the same pressure. Does it sound like I have any issues?

It doesn't seem normal to me, but wondering if it's just my inexperience in reading boost gauges. Only boost gauge I'm accustomed to reading is the stock one in my sister's Saab and it seems that gauge (although completely different in it's readout format) doesn't seem to fluctuate like this one.

Also, I would like to say that the podi installation instructions for their boost gauge was garbage. Worst instructions I've ever seen. You're selling a product... get that shit together. First of all separate the b7 and b6 installation guides because that shit was confusing at best and could use a little editing from someone who understands linear instructions. Step 1, step 2, step 3, etc. ALSO, indicate what fucken tools you will need exactly from beginning to end. The "$5 worth of electrical equipment" and only the T8 torx screw driver was a little to vague. I kinda ended up using a LOT more tools than that. And what $5 worth of electrical equipment did i need? I don't think i'll ever buy another podi product again until they get their business shit together. No zip ties either? I think 4 feet of vacuum tubing through my driver console, wheel well and engine bay would appreciate a few zip ties, or just put that on the list of required tools. Like i said... confusing at best, but best described as shitty instructions.

[Zebman]

Calm down killer! You didn't drill a hole into the bottom part of your steering column in frustration for not being able to find a T8 screwdriver, and in the process made the installation 45 minutes longer. I would feed the T8 screws up, and they would fall out of the hole I made.

It wasn't that bad. If you've DIY'd regularly, you know shit never goes 100% smooth as butter. Yes I was frustrated about the wiring, but hey, nothing some soldering couldn't fix.

FYI, the screws were supposed to screw in. If you pull on the mount, it will come off. I'm surprised you didn't mention anything about a GIGANTIC FUCKING GAP OMFG!!11! in the plastic from not screwing it on. And the dust cover fits barely in all holes, but once on, it will never make enough movement to come off.

10 psi is what my car holds at in stock mode. But my PCV valve is straight dumping boost, so it should probably be higher. What is the temp when you're getting these numbers?

The last problem that I had when installing my VEI digital gauge, was that I tapped the auto-headlight wire by mistake, so when the automatic headlight feature would click on, the gauge would flash like a strobe light. I got a test light out and found the proper wire to tap. Thanks Neil @VEI.

Question: What product have you bought before that supplies zip ties and wiring? These gauges are not made by Podi, they buy them and include them in their mount packages. They could include wire, but it'd push the price up. Besides, they don't know how much you need. If you by chance need more, them including wire is a waste of their money AND your money.

Lastly no offense, i'm not passing judgement because I don't know how well you're acquainted with cars, but if you have a fair understanding of electricity and a test light (possibly $2 of the $5 needed?), there was not a lot of instructing necessary. The only thing I see them needing to tell you, is how to get the knee bolster off, where to put the T-tap for vacuum, and how to get the steering column cover off.

[Alkemix]

Well the mount stays together, there is no gap, otherwise I'd be even more disappointed (edited to be nice to podi). Because of the fact that the screws didn't screw in at the end and they simply SLID right in, i'd say there was a product failure. no drilling was done during this process. I'm glad you're able to subvert the original instructions and are able to solder and do other more advanced techniques to bypass the crap instructions provided, but we don't all have soldering guns and lines of extra wiring just in case. I kinda expected them to give me a finished product that I could install without having to go strip some old electronic equipment for extra wires. Plus, the increase in price for the additional zip ties and wiring is really a weak excuse cause we know how much that would really add to the cost... practically nothing. Sorry, but no defending podi with me right now. I'm pretty disappointed. The entire gauge doesn't even light up evenly. There is a darker area around the podi logo and the 30Hg area. Just doesn't seem that high of a quality product overall. Maybe I didn't get a great connection to the power line since the instructions didn't warn me i'd need some wire connectors, which i didn't have the right size handy and just ended up using electrical tape which to me is a shitty way to get things done, but done it was. And after it all, that the screws don't even screw in. It was literally the very last thing i did to find out that i could possibly hit a pot hole and the mount could pop out from it's current flush position, then the 2 torx screws would fall through and I'd be on my fucken hands and knees trying to find them later. Plus, I'd have to drive around with an unsightly gap. I dunno about you, but when i buy a product, i don't want to be dealing with that kind longterm bullshit.

[Alkemix]

Btw, no zip ties, thats fine, but the wires were absolutely too short to reach anything, and the least that they can do is put in the instructions that additional wires are needed. They failed to do so. And yes, when i buy a product that supplies wires, it generally is of adequate length.

EDIT: Alright, maybe my original statements were a bit harsh to podi, but imagine I spent a better part of my saturday sweating it out and working pretty hard to do a quality job on this install and it just doesn't seem like podi was there to back me up once they got my money with their lame instructions, plus I never did get a response to my original email to them. BTW, Zebman, I didn't drill a hole in the steering column, but I did end up sawing off half the handle on my T8 sized torx screwdriver to get enough length to reach those 2 screws. I really hope they update those instructions.

[Zebman]

I never got an email in response either. I was flipping out when my gauge started flashing. And don't get me wrong, I completely agree about being informed about what is needed beforehand, I didn't know either until I opened the package, I just didn't find it quite a big deal as I did it on a Friday afternoon and had time to burn driving around for bits and ends.

Man, I spent countless hours and over $30 in socket kits trying to find a T8 bit that could fit in that tiny fucking hole, and that's what lead me to think "Hey, i'll just drill it to fit one of these 1/4" bits!" To anybody reading this, DON'T DO IT. The plastic going up to the screws is what actually holds the bottom column cover to the top. I'm lucky in that I didn't drill all of it out, otherwise i'd be shelling out for a new column cover. $$$ I was more mad at Audi for using the smallest, most un-universal damn thing they could think of for their screws. People at Tractor Supply laughed at me for looking for something that small.

By the way, what wire did you tap for dimming control? I originally tapped the one in the top left of the headlight control harness, the big blue one like the B6 directions say. I re-did it, tapping a grayish-blue one on the same row.

[eMacPaul]

I have a Podi, and I agree about the wires being too short... I really can't see how bad it could be to add an extra 8-12 in so the customer doesn't have to add additional wiring. I also agree that the lighting isn't great.

However, I had no problems with the column pod mount, and am overall quite happy with the product.

The boost response I'm showing is spiking up to 14-15, then holding at 11. And it does drop drastically when I decrease pressure on the gas pedal.

[Phrost]

lol you need a damn torx driver, not one of those universal handles you slide bits into. Sucks to spend $5 on a torx driver you'll probably use once if you don't already have it, but it's the only way to get the screws. Took a little futzing to get the pod perfectly straight, but mine screwed in perfectly.

The leather boot also was a tight fit for mine. I really don't remember if I left 1 or 2 of the tab not connected (I think I did) but it was a little tough but looks perfect however I did it so I think it's fine. Might need to be redesigned, if it isn't too expensive for them to make a new mold.

I thought the instructions were fine. My installation was a breeze and I didn't have any problems.

I don't recall other brands sending zip ties (I may be wrong) but if you don't have any in your garage then you should go out and buy some. Everyone should have a bag of zip ties at their house.

As for the wires being short, I agree that they should come longer. They didn't really bother me because it only takes a few minutes to solder extra wire on there, but I did kind of expect the harness that was included to fit perfectly as is.

I don't know though, pretty much EVERY install requires some shrink wrap, connectors, etc of your own, but it depends on the person how much "extra parts" is too much.

btw, YES


NO

[agorich]

wow. sorry to hear about this issue you are having guys. what about the kit that mounts into your vents? anyone have issues there?

[Phrost]

what about the kit that mounts into your vents? anyone have issues there?

I have a major issue with how the overall kit looks. A boost gauge looks out of place sitting inside of a rectangular air vent

[Alkemix]

I'm beginning to think i have a kink in my vacuum tube lining that probably got there as i was re-installing the kick panel. Lighting on a gauge is very key and the stewart warner gauge does not light up evenly.

Zebman, right now i'm tapped into that same line you first had, top left, like in the B6 pictures. I think all is well though for me, i haven't tried dimming yet, but will need to test that out to make sure everything is correctly install and if not, might try to tap a different line.

Also, i think i'm getting a little buzzing. I did install 1 of the 2 anti-buzz limiters, which i think is all you needed for the 2.0T install. Can anyone confirm this, seeing as how the instructions were semi vague as to how many of those anti-buzz fittings the 2.0T install would actually use.

[Alkemix]

lol you need a damn torx driver, not one of those universal handles you slide bits into.

I did buy a set of 4 or 5 torx screw drivers at Sears that came out to 9.95 plus tax. I only needed the one, but i bought the set because it didn't look like the other standalone drivers would be long enough. I ended up sawing half the handle off and it worked beautifully after that. I also did purchase a $30 set of torx ratchet attachments for future use as well, seeing as how everything in our cars are torx.

[Zebman]

I looked high and low for a screwdriver. Seriously, 10 different stores and over 50 miles traveled overall to find a screwdriver long enough. I couldn't even find a short T8 screwdriver. I finally tried a lowes 40 miles from my house and found one in a $15 pack.

And yes, I have plenty of those 1/4" bits now Phrost.

Alke, try taking off/wiggling the mount, see if the screws fall out if you're concerned it coming off. Also, the kick panel is very easy to take off in case the hose is kinked.

[Phrost]

The pod is abs plastic I'm pretty sure, and every pod should be the same... so if your torx screws are not lining up then you need to shimmy it around until the screws slide in there properly. Mine fit in there the first time and tons of other people do not have problems, so yours is probably just a tad off and needs to be tapped around probably.

Does your gauge buzz? You should already have the anti-buzz fitting you need installed. Here is the 2.0T adapter installed, and the anti-buzz fitting used to attach the vacuum line to it.

Analog gauges have a tendency to buzz when under boost. To preven this, you should install the anti-buzz fitting on the newly installed boost line. If you have a 2.0T, you have already done this

For power, I tapped the blue wire like the instructions noted. Why did you tap the gray/blue wire instead, Zebman?

[Zebman]

For power, I tapped the blue wire like the instructions noted. Why did you tap the gray/blue wire instead, Zebman?

For the dimming wire I originally had it on the blue wire in the corner of the harness, which caused the gauge to flash when the auto headlight feature clicked on. The grayish blue has worked excellently so far.

[Phrost]

I see. Both wires should work the same I guess, but the blue one from the instructions has worked flawlessly for me.

[Alkemix]

My current theory is no longer a buzz from the gauge, since I did attach the anti-buzz limiter/connector to the T nub and the vacuum tube. I think it's a rattle/buzz, from the screws under the steering wheel that are just slid in, rather than screwed in. I'm more than fairly sure that all things are lined up properly on the mount as it is sitting very flush, and I can hear the screws zipping all the way up through where there should be threading, unless I'm still somehow not lined up... I'll go home and check tonight and also check to see if my gauge correctly dims with my interior.

I didn't want to pull up on the mount knowing the screws will fall through if i do, but now i know thats not a solution to drive around with a fear of losing those screws and the annoying micro rattle which imitates a buzzing noise at low rpms.

Does anyone think a brighter light would fix the dark are on the gauge?

[Alkemix]

The boost response I'm showing is spiking up to 14-15, then holding at 11. And it does drop drastically when I decrease pressure on the gas pedal.

Hey, are you fully stock? or do you have any mods... i'm guessing you're not chipped with those pressures.

[Phrost]

Well Alkemix, I suggest taking the mounting pod off them threading the torx screws into the holes to make sure they didn't get stripped somehow. If they thread in correctly, then keep fishing the screws around and jiggling the mount until you catch the threads.

[eMacPaul]

Hey, are you fully stock? or do you have any mods... i'm guessing you're not chipped with those pressures.

Yeah, I'm stock.

[[email protected]]

To both parties that did send emails to me but did not get a reply... wel I was sick and out of action. I am a one man operation and I can't do much when I am unable to get to my office.

That is retarded seeing as how the plastic is nowhere near the quality of the oem cover and the screws didn't even screw in. I'm overly dissatisfied right now.

Why you are having so many issues with installation I do not know. I don't know how my pod is any different from the OEM cover as I used the OEM cover to design it.

I have stated this before and it is posted on our website:

If you are unhappy with the product FOR ANY REASON then please send it back for a refund.

In regards to the Stewart Warner gauge illumination issue the dark area you see is due to the fact the gauge internals are blacking the light from getting to that part of the dial. This is what happens when only a single LED is used to light up the dial. As I have stated in the past I have asked Stewart Warner to look into this and get back to me with a solution but I have heard nothing back from them to date.

I have designed a new gauge that will arrive in October that I will be offering a swap for the Stewart Warner gauges. Details on how to do this exchange will be posted in the next couple of weeks.

If you have any other questions please let me know.

[rudtf]

great, you answered one of my questions that i've been pming you about in your post. i guess you can get back to me about the install kit sometime before then. thanks and glad to see you're back.

[[email protected]]

Johnnie... I am sorry I haven't gotten back to you yet.

I'll get to your email and have a solution to you ASAP.

[rudtf]

well if the stewart warner replacements are coming soon... i'll just get it all installed in one shot so no rush, i'll just get both at once.

[Alkemix]

Winston I'm not gonna ask for a refund, because as long as you can do two things, i'll be happy. 1) Help me figure out why those last 2 screws (possibly 2 of the most important screws, aesthetically) are not screwing in and also 2) Swap the stewart warner gauge for your new gauge.

I've retracted my complaint on the quality of the plastic used on the mount itself. That really wasn't a quality statement made by myself.

Final word, having driven around with the podi gauge the last few days, I want to keep it. The idea of the vent gauge is not appealing to me at all.

I'll PM you and we can talk offline on how to resolve.

[[email protected]]

If you take the pod off and look at where the screws are supposed to thread into are they entering the opening at the right angle?

With the pod in your hand are you able to thread the screw into the opening and feel some resistance as you continue to twist the screw in?

I just want to determine if you have stripped the inside of the opening and that is why it is not holding the screw in place. If you have then don't feel bad as you are not the first client to do so.

The gauge swap I have posted a few weeks back but I had a couple of things I wanted changed which has pushed back the shipment date. As mentioned above I will be posting a swap for the new gauge soon.

[Alkemix]

I wont be able to try again until the weekend. My torx set is at my friends garage right now. I want to say that I've already tried that, but my memory is shit right now. I know that I didn't force it, so I don't know how I could have stripped anything. I basically never had traction even for a second, so either there was never any screw tread or I'm off angle and missing the hole completely. Hopefully it's the latter of the two and that problem solved. The thing is the mount is sitting perfectly flush, so I don't see how I could be missing the angle right now.

[P3RryaudiA4]

hey winston i got your email from my fathers email address and he replied to you, i didnt know for sure what was going on, i hope you understand why i was getting nervous. i hope your ok and fealing well, i didnt mean to bug you but i didnt know what else to do lol,
can;t wait to get the new gauge and put it in, i know it will be a great mod right before a long road trip... i also just got a camera finally and will post pics up as soon as i can, and also thank you phrost for assuring me everything would work out lol,

takes a huge weight off knowing ill have the gauge before i try to get the a4 3000 miles across country... thanks winston

[Phrost]

also thank you phrost for assuring me everything would work out lol

Winston and I are gangsters, we don't front and stand behind our sheeeeeeet yawadda mean

[Alkemix]

Winston and I are gangsters, we don't front and stand behind our sheeeeeeet yawadda mean

Winston, I know for certain that I didn't force and strip any tread on the screws, so if i find that the screws don't fit, will you replace the mount with free shipping on both ways for the swap?

[dlcarreon]

Will this terminate the warranty of the car if it's installed?

[Alkemix]

absolutely should not, but stranger things have happened.

[[email protected]]

Winston, I know for certain that I didn't force and strip any tread on the screws, so if i find that the screws don't fit, will you replace the mount with free shipping on both ways for the swap?

Sorry I missed this post.

You were sent a brand new, perfect pod, I know as I hand picked it. I've had a couple of other clients strip the threads just by turning the screw 1/2 turn too much. It doesn't have to be tightened down that much.

Anyway if you send me the pod back I'll send you a replacement.

That's the best I can do and probably more than any other shop will do.

[sdjeff]

Sorry I missed this post.

You were sent a brand new, perfect pod, I know as I hand picked it. I've had a couple of other clients strip the threads just by turning the screw 1/2 turn too much. It doesn't have to be tightened down that much.

Anyway if you send me the pod back I'll send you a replacement.

That's the best I can do and probably more than any other shop will do.

very generous

[Phrost]

That's the best I can do and probably more than any other shop will do.

This is true

Does it say that in the instructions to be careful not to overtighten these? I does kind of go without saying since the thread pitch is so fine, but it might be a helpful note if it's not already in there

[Alkemix]

I think the instructions completely omits the entire pod mount section, except on the packaging stated simply and literally as "do opposite of removing OEM covering" or something to that effect. Anyways, the thread pitch may be very fine, but i had no problems with the OEM steering cover and literally, if the thread is being stripped from a half turn too much of a turn, then there is a flaw in the product. And i will say that I NEVER felt any resistance on the screw driver, therefore it never even held the screw to begin with.

[Alkemix]

If you say the thread pitch is as fragile as you say it is, then I should be able to pull your podi mount right off the steering column, while completely screwed in correctly using only a tiny bit more force than if it were completely unscrewed, because THATS how much torque those threads would be able to resist, according to how easily I was able to have stripped them, if indeed I did strip them. That doesn't sound like you're building a good case. You may have hand picked the mount for me, but did you look into the screw holes to see if the thread pitch was perfect as well, or did you just take for granted that it would be, as you are doing now?

[[email protected]]

There is no flaw in the design of the pod. Both the OEM unit and mine have a boss set in place for the screw to self tap the threads. Audi does not injection mold the column cover with threads in place. I'm holding a brand new OEM cover right now and the bosses are smooth just like the pod.

I have installed dozens of these pods and I put my finger to the gap, tighten the screw and when I feel the gap change the screw is tight enough. If you tighten to the max and twist 1/2 turn more you will strip the boss due to the fine pitch of the screw.

Of all the pods I have sold your is the 4th one that the boss could have been stripped. Of the previous 3 two people used teflon tape to help secure the pod and the other client injected glue into the hole and redrilled the opening.

As I offered... if you want to send it back I'll ship you out a replacement.

[Alkemix]

I've had a couple of other clients strip the threads just by turning the screw 1/2 turn too much. It doesn't have to be tightened down that much.

Anyway if you send me the pod back I'll send you a replacement.

That's the best I can do and probably more than any other shop will do.

There was NEVER any tightening down to begin with. I don't think you're getting that.

The best you could do is pay for the shipping. You will likely send back the defective mount to your manufacturer with all your other defective mounts for a credit. I'm really not asking for that much. Replace the product at no cost to me. I've already paid for shipping at the time of purchase.

[[email protected]]

Best I could do is pay for shipping?!?? Wow.

Send it back and I'll take care of all associated costs to get you the replacement.

Or send everything back and I'll process a refund.

[Alkemix]

Do you have an office phone number?