Clutch problems.

**blmlozz** · 09-21-2008 09:04 PM

had an issue with my SB STG5 clutch a few thousand mi ago, it ate through a throw-out bearing within 15K with normal driving. Now I'm having a similar issue, it just started yesterday but has become progessively worse up to today, I didn't do anything different the past two days, so it started all of a sudden.

If it might be a symptom, the engagement point with this clutch in my car is pretty much at the point where the pedal is fully extended, maybe 1/4-1/2" before my foot is off the pedal, so very,very high. The clutch slave cylinder was replaced with the clutch so It has ~20K on it.

symptoms;
acutaly, it's acting like it did when the throw-out bearing went bad, and that is, the engagement point changes and it feels very limp, however sometimes it will shift completly normal, and sometimes it engages at the dead bottom and feels like it dosen't want to come back up. The pedal dosen't vibrate violently like it did when the bearing was bad however.
I bled the system when I got home and I'll try to bleed it again tomorrow, just wondering if it could be something besides air in the system since it's so sporadic.

P.S. if anyone knows how I can change the slave cylinder rod so that the engagement point is lower down please do tell!

thanks guys.

**djwimbo** · 09-21-2008 10:27 PM

Originally Posted by blmlozz

P.S. if anyone knows how I can change the slave cylinder rod so that the engagement point is lower down please do tell!

I made my slave cyl rod longer IIRC. Turns out I didn't need to, but it was worth a try.

Not to proud of my method, but send me a PM if you want details.

Basically what you feel as the release point is dependent upon how the belleville spring is setup, so anything you do to change that will have minimal effects. Note: Due to the "self adjusting" properties of a hydraulic system, even as the clutch wears it won't change your release height that much.

**FourRings80** · 09-21-2008 10:37 PM

Maybe this can help you a little (the engagement point was too low):

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195482

Good luck

**sean1.8t** · 09-22-2008 12:17 AM

yes, shorten your slave cyllinder rod. go with 1/4" to start and see how it does.

it's not to hard to swap out. especially when you shorten the length

**blmlozz** · 09-22-2008 11:54 AM

I bled the system again today and all is well, so obvisully air is getting into the system some-how. I'm considering replacing the master cylinder. Anyone know the difficulty or any write-ups? Thanks.

**sean1.8t** · 09-22-2008 04:31 PM

it's not hard. mostly

its easily accessed under your car on the driver's side of the trans. little plastic black peice. you just undo the hydrolic line. cap it off with something. and then unbolt the 1 allen head bolt on the side of it. then you pull it out and you're done.

the hard part is getting it back in. you have to put the rod end in the hole and press it in all the way(don't attatch the hydrolic line back up until you are done) to depress the cylinder. and once you get it in far enough you can slide it over the little notch to line up with the hole and bolt it up.

with practice you can get it in and out in less than 5 minutes. but plan on bitching and swearing to get that thing in first time. prolly 30 min. good luck

**mike-2ptzero** · 09-22-2008 04:39 PM

Originally Posted by sean1.8t

yes, shorten your slave cylinder rod. go with 1/4" to start and see how it does.

it's not to hard to swap out. especially when you shorten the length

That would move the engagement further down, longer rod move the engagement further up. You can also space the pressure plate up off of the flywheel to move the engagement further up, but this will decrease the pre-load clamping pressure and the over all clamping pressure.

**djwimbo** · 09-22-2008 04:40 PM

Originally Posted by sean1.8t

its easily accessed under your car on the driver's side of the trans. little plastic black peice. you just undo the hydrolic line. cap it off with something. and then unbolt the 1 allen head bolt on the side of it. then you pull it out and you're done.

That's the SLAVE cylinder. The Master cylinder is attached to the pedal inside your car. The hydraulic line that is pressure out looks like a brake line that comes out underneath the brake booster. There's a metal retaining clip similar to the ones used on our coolant fittings. IMHO that clip was the biggest PITA, but I tried to get it out after I loosened the bolts holding the master to the bulkhead(aka firewall).

I think I paid $60 or so for mine from AutoZone. Yes, the one AutoZone supplies is made by the same manufacturer as OEM and is packaged in another companies box.

I replaced my master cylinder in about 45 mins, with considerable curse words and frustration. It was cold, I was tired and not happy b/c I just lost my job. Not the best circumstances to work on your car.
If I did it again, it could be done in about 20-25mins. The Slave cyl is easier IMO, I can change that in ~10mins (+bleeding it) including jacking the car up.

If you're getting air in the system, obviously check fluid level and check to see if there are any cracks in the fluid supply hose to the master or in the master reservoir itself. I replaced the hose/feed line and ran a separate reservoir for mine. That way I can monitor which system is more harsh on the fluid, brakes or clutch.

**sean1.8t** · 09-23-2008 04:15 PM

Originally Posted by djwimbo

That's the SLAVE cylinder. The Master cylinder is attached to the pedal inside your car. The hydraulic line that is pressure out looks like a brake line that comes out underneath the brake booster. There's a metal retaining clip similar to the ones used on our coolant fittings. IMHO that clip was the biggest PITA, but I tried to get it out after I loosened the bolts holding the master to the bulkhead(aka firewall).

I think I paid $60 or so for mine from AutoZone. Yes, the one AutoZone supplies is made by the same manufacturer as OEM and is packaged in another companies box.

I replaced my master cylinder in about 45 mins, with considerable curse words and frustration. It was cold, I was tired and not happy b/c I just lost my job. Not the best circumstances to work on your car.
If I did it again, it could be done in about 20-25mins. The Slave cyl is easier IMO, I can change that in ~10mins (+bleeding it) including jacking the car up.

If you're getting air in the system, obviously check fluid level and check to see if there are any cracks in the fluid supply hose to the master or in the master reservoir itself. I replaced the hose/feed line and ran a separate reservoir for mine. That way I can monitor which system is more harsh on the fluid, brakes or clutch.

damn, sorry. i was just reading too fast i guess.

**sean1.8t** · 09-23-2008 04:16 PM

Originally Posted by mike-2ptzero

That would move the engagement further down, longer rod move the engagement further up. You can also space the pressure plate up off of the flywheel to move the engagement further up, but this will decrease the pre-load clamping pressure and the over all clamping pressure.

that's what he was asking. and that's what i told him.

im not getting what you're trying to say