Clutch Install, removed trans, weird leak

[airy52]

Alright, so I removed my transmission today but as I was lowering it was caught on some wiring and tubing, so I got most of it out of the way and continued. Through out the lowering, a very small amount of near clear thick liquid dripped out between the bell housing and transmission, whether this is normal I do not know. When I got everything out of the way, I noticed a small spot where something had leaked (designated by the red arrow). It seemed as if it had come out of the hydraulic line ( green ) or the tube ( pink, has liquid in it ). It would be a real pain to have to take my transmission out to replace these later if they were leaking. Does anyone know what those tubes are or what was leaking? It was a very small amount and is no longer leaking. Just trying to be on the safe side. My best guess is it was pulling on it when it was lowering and leaked a little out and then closed back up. I do find it weird that there is a nut missing on the bolt that holds the hydraulic line though.

Also, anything else I should do while I have the whole thing apart?

ALSO, the bolts the connect the cat to the middle exhaust all snapped and half of the bolts are now stuck in the cat side. They wont come out, even with a butane torch. Do I really have to get a settling torch to remove these?

If you couldn't figure it out, this pictures is right above the clutch/flywheel. You can see the bare plate in picture 1. Pictures 2 and 3 proceed to a more vertical view.

[passatkid]

Remove the air box and remove the cat

[Poopie]

looks like a cracked coolant temp sensor housing to me

[djwimbo]

Alright, so I removed my transmission today but as I was lowering it was caught on some wiring and tubing, so I got most of it out of the way and continued. Through out the lowering, a very small amount of near clear thick liquid dripped out between the bell housing and transmission, whether this is normal I do not know. When I got everything out of the way, I noticed a small spot where something had leaked (designated by the red arrow). It seemed as if it had come out of the hydraulic line ( green ) or the tube ( pink, has liquid in it ). It would be a real pain to have to take my transmission out to replace these later if they were leaking. Does anyone know what those tubes are or what was leaking? It was a very small amount and is no longer leaking. Just trying to be on the safe side. My best guess is it was pulling on it when it was lowering and leaked a little out and then closed back up. I do find it weird that there is a nut missing on the bolt that holds the hydraulic line though.

Also, anything else I should do while I have the whole thing apart?

ALSO, the bolts the connect the cat to the middle exhaust all snapped and half of the bolts are now stuck in the cat side. They wont come out, even with a butane torch. Do I really have to get a settling torch to remove these?

If you couldn't figure it out, this pictures is right above the clutch/flywheel. You can see the bare plate in picture 1. Pictures 2 and 3 proceed to a more vertical view.

First off, there's no such thing as a "settling torch", it's an Oxy-Acetylene torch. No, you don't need one to remove those bolts. You have options. Drill and re-tap the holes or remove the bolts that are in there w/ a set of vicegrips and some heat/lube/patience.

The first picture shows the coolant elbow/flange on the rear of the cylinder head(pink designation) and the turbo oil feed line(designated with green). I find it hard to believe that it would be the turbo oil feed line unless you jarred it really hard with something.
The coolant flange is a common issue, however I would look at your timing chain tensioner and half moon seals before I go replacing anything. Though it does appear to me (from the last pic) that it is the coolant flange O-ring that's leaking.

Things you should replace during that job.
Rear main seal is optional
pilot bearing
release bearing (aka throw out bearing)
You're probably in there to do a clutch, so the clutch disc and pressure plate.
DMFW's are junk, replace with a SMFW and a sprung hub disc, this is optional though.

[onepoint8tee]

DMFW's arent junk. Thats rediculous. Heavy and not supportive for aftermarket clutches, yes, but "junk"?... No. There is much engineering and concept to a dmfw. It's a very inteligent design that accomidates a stock clutch just fine.
+1 for the coolant flange

Don't forget to get new axle gasket/seals where they meet the tranny. Also get new bolts that hold the rear prop shaft to the tranny. They are a one time use stretchy kind of bolt. If you arent going to replace your slave cyl (which you should while you have it out) then at least spray some lithium grease inside the boot. Youll find a small pin sized hole on the boot that you can stick the nozel/straw through so you dont have to remove the boot. If you are going to reuse the flywheel and not get it resurfaced, at least scuff it up with some heavy grit sand paper to get rid of the glaze.

[djwimbo]

DMFW's arent junk. Thats rediculous. Heavy and not supportive for aftermarket clutches, yes, but "junk"?... No. There is much engineering and concept to a dmfw. It's a very inteligent design that accomidates a stock clutch just fine.
+1 for the coolant flange

Don't forget to get new axle gasket/seals where they meet the tranny. Also get new bolts that hold the rear prop shaft to the tranny. They are a one time use stretchy kind of bolt. If you arent going to replace your slave cyl (which you should while you have it out) then at least spray some lithium grease inside the boot. Youll find a small pin sized hole on the boot that you can stick the nozel/straw through so you dont have to remove the boot. If you are going to reuse the flywheel and not get it resurfaced, at least scuff it up with some heavy grit sand paper to get rid of the glaze.

Those seals aren't a necessary piece to replace. I wouldn't worry about them unless you FUBAR'd them on removal.

The Salve cyl can be easily replaced without the trans out, and I wouldn't replace it unless it's broken. NTM I think the cheapest one I found was $65.

As far as the DMFW thing, sorry that's my opinion and the handful if TDI guys I know that have broken theirs.

[onepoint8tee]

They are "necessary" to replace because Audi updated them to a cork design. The original rubber seals are too flibsy to reuse and are known to let axle grease slip through. Slave cylinder easy to replace with the tranny bolted to the engine? Are you crazy? Its right on top of the tranny in the least accessable spot they could possibly put it. I know audi technicians who hate that job. If r and r'ing isn't a bitch enough by itself, the bleeding process is even more tedious. 100x easier to do with the tranny out. The main reason to replace it would be if it is squeeky during operation or is leaking hydraulic fluid.

[Poopie]

the slave is probably fine. its still a bitch to replace though. getting fluid everywhere and then bleeding it...its no fun.

[Poopie]

They are "necessary" to replace because Audi updated them to a cork design. The original rubber seals are too flibsy to reuse and are known to let axle grease slip through. Slave cylinder easy to replace with the tranny bolted to the engine? Are you crazy? Its right on top of the tranny in the least accessable spot they could possibly put it. I know audi technicians who hate that job. If r and r'ing isn't a bitch enough by itself, the bleeding process is even more tedious. 100x easier to do with the tranny out. The main reason to replace it would be if it is squeeky during operation or is leaking hydraulic fluid.

its pretty easy to get to. move the coolant res out of the way and its right there. i just hate any job that requires clean up or getting dirty.

[onepoint8tee]

Have you replaced the slave from the top view by moving the coolant tank out of the way? I know you can see it, but I don't think taking the retaining bolt and unclipping it and pulling it out would be possible from that angle.

[Poopie]

yeah i did two this week.

in my point of view its the only way of doing it. i'm not gonna risk getting brake fluid in my eyes from doing it from below.

[onepoint8tee]

Good to know. Didn't think it was possible. Never heard of anyone doing it that way.

[airy52]

Just fyi I'm doing this to install a southbend stage 3 hd clutch and pressure plate. resurfacing the dmfw. Why do people recommend a new flywheel?

Now that you mention it, I hear squeaking when depressing the clutch. I never though much of it. Replace the SC then?

What seals do you mean? The ones between the left axle and trans and right axle and trans? Do you have a part number? If not, a description and I'll run it through etka. Thanks!!

[onepoint8tee]

Just spray some lithim grease in the boot. That will shut it up. Just did this 2 weeks ago. Just pick up the cv seals from a vw or audi dealer.

[djwimbo]

yeah i did two this week.

in my point of view its the only way of doing it. i'm not gonna risk getting brake fluid in my eyes from doing it from below.

Remove the left front wheel. You can access the retaining bolt with a long extension and a swivel through the wheelwell. That prevents getting to awfully dirty as well b/c you're at eye level with it.

When do you hear your squeak? Upon reassembly make sure you lube the pivot and slide points.

In a performance oriented world we like to go with what's known to work well and work well for as long as possible. The stock clutch and flywheel are designed to handle stock power and "Normal" driving habits. Without even questioning the condition of my flywheel I replaced it when my clutch started to slip. I do not regret it one bit, NTM I don't really like the feel of customer's cars w/ DMFW's anymore.
SMFW + Sprung Hub = reliability and drastically less rotating mass.

[airy52]

Alright I understand. I do not have the funds to purchase an aftermarket flywheel, so I will stick with this one until it breaks. Also, it only takes a day to drop the transmission ( for me at least ) so if it breaks I could replace it easily.

I hear squeaking from about 25 percent to 75 percent of the clutch to the floor. At a normal speed of my foot moving to the floor, its juts a little errrrrr, pretty quiet actually. I will spray lithium stuff inside it and rub grease/oil all over it and the outside and everything.

[djwimbo]

lube the pivot point inside the car as well.

[airy52]

I'm sorry, I don't understand what you mean. I really don't know a lot about cars, but as you can see I am learning. Where is the pivot point inside the car? Where my pedal pivots? the squeak is coming from under outside the cabin when I hear it. Can only hear it with car off.