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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings Rico750's Avatar
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    B7 S4| 07' R1 | 08' R6 | 09 X6 |
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    timing belt b5 vs b6 ?

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    any idea if the timing bet job on a a4 b6 3.0 is easier then the 1,8T b5?

    just wanna make sure my mechanic s not gonna shaft me... thanks!!

    Rico

    2004 S4 | 18" RS6 rep Rims | Valentine 1 | BOSE + Blaupunkt sound | K&N | H&R sport 1.2" lowering | KONI | 30% tint | FI down-pipes | FI catback 2.5" | JHM tune |

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings ad03avant's Avatar
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    Jun 21 2008
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    2003 A4 Avant Quattro
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    Olympia, WA

    Re: timing belt b5 vs b6 ?

    I hate timing belts...
    Andy

    -2003 A4 Avant Quattro
    ************************-
    -APR Stage 2 +, Achtuning Snub, Avic D3, USP Front, S4 blades and bi-xenons, APR stealth, 034 HFC, ASA JH3 18', platinum VMR sport gauge, h-sport sways, ABT springs, Koni sports, Zimmerman sport rotors, Stoptech stage 1
    **************************

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings dougyfresh's Avatar
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    Re: timing belt b5 vs b6 ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Rico750 View Post
    any idea if the timing bet job on a a4 b6 3.0 is easier then the 1,8T b5?

    just wanna make sure my mechanic s not gonna shaft me... thanks!!

    Rico
    There are a few things to keep in mine with the 3.0. Like locking the two heads together with a 'cam bar' so they do not move independently of each other while installing the timing belt.

    While I have not done a timing belt on a 2.8 or 3.0 I have a sneaking suspicion that its just as easy at a 1.8T after you lock out the two heads.

    This is a cam bar on a 2.7T:
    -Doug
    2002 A4 Avant EPL tuned 2.7T K04 6spd

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings AudiA4_20T's Avatar
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    Oct 29 2005
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    8553
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    10speed
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    San Francisco, CA

    Re: timing belt b5 vs b6 ?

    Quote Originally Posted by dougyfresh View Post
    There are a few things to keep in mine with the 3.0. Like locking the two heads together with a 'cam bar' so they do not move independently of each other while installing the timing belt.

    While I have not done a timing belt on a 2.8 or 3.0 I have a sneaking suspicion that its just as easy at a 1.8T after you lock out the two heads.

    This is a cam bar on a 2.7T:
    3.0 is way different than the 2.8,

    The 3.0 timing belt is much harder than a 1.8T
    - Clint

    Current : 2013 Q5 3.0T Prestige S-Line - 11.6@117 - 034 Stage2+ FBO
    Gone : One of the first ever 2.7T Swaps - White '04 S4 2.7T - Stage 2+
    Gone : Fastest B6 A4 ever - 464awhp/12.1@116

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings dougyfresh's Avatar
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    Re: timing belt b5 vs b6 ?

    Quote Originally Posted by AudiA4_20T View Post
    3.0 is way different than the 2.8,

    The 3.0 timing belt is much harder than a 1.8T
    Why? What makes it more difficult? I'm curious.
    -Doug
    2002 A4 Avant EPL tuned 2.7T K04 6spd

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings lookaught's Avatar
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    Apr 20 2007
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    2002 1.8t Avant GTRS, Aprilia SXV 550, BMW F800GS, Ram EcoDiesel, 1990 Bronco
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    Lander, Wyoming

    Re: timing belt b5 vs b6 ?

    I am curious as well. I did the TB twice on 2.7t's and they were a cakewalk. Much easier than the 1.8t, the only PITA was getting the crank lock pin into place. Other than that you really cannot mess it up. The 1.8t was much more stressful b/c I had never dealt with the pre-tensioning crap before.
    Jon

    go > show

    Ich liebe mein Audi

    2002 GTRS Avant - Built with love, sweat, bloody knuckles, and pride.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings dougyfresh's Avatar
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    Re: timing belt b5 vs b6 ?

    Quote Originally Posted by lookaught View Post
    I am curious as well. I did the TB twice on 2.7t's and they were a cakewalk. Much easier than the 1.8t, the only PITA was getting the crank lock pin into place. Other than that you really cannot mess it up. The 1.8t was much more stressful b/c I had never dealt with the pre-tensioning crap before.
    I've got a trick for you to deal with that tensioner on the 1.8T.

    Rotate the idler pulley into the 'tensioned' position (should be a few mm off the gas shock tensioner.. I think 5mm). Place a vice-grips on the exhaust side of the head. There is a little 'shelf' there you can clamp onto. The vice grips will then rest against the idler pulley in the 'tensioned' position. The gas shock tensioner is un-touched (still compressed and locked w/ the pin). Rotate the engine clockwise by hand with a 19mm 12pt socket on the crank and the spark plugs removed. After four complete crank revolutions get the crank back to TDC cyl#1. Recheck cam timing and such. If things are still in time and you're not 1/2 a tooth off on the belt you're good to go. Whilst holding the idler pulley in its 'tensioned' position with your right hand, release the vice grips with the left hand and immediately pull the pin on the gas tensioner. The gas tensioner will extend out onto the idler pulley and you're all tensioned and good to go.

    The alternative is to just remove the gas tensioner and slowly compress it in a bench vise to get it back to the 'locked' position with the pin. That is, if you have to reset the timing belt because you're 1/2 a tooth off. Then rebolt the gas shock tensioner onto the engine and reset the timing belt tension (again)..

    I like using the vice grip method to crank the motor over a few times by hand to verify alles ist guten prior to buttoning everything up. Its easier than having to recompress the gas shock tensioner if you've fcvked up and are 1/2 a tooth off on the TB.
    -Doug
    2002 A4 Avant EPL tuned 2.7T K04 6spd

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings Gondi Stylez's Avatar
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    Oct 22 2006
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    12780
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    B6 3.0 Q
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    Calgary, Canada

    Re: timing belt b5 vs b6 ?

    Speaking of TB's on the 3.0, I need to do mine
    '02 DG A4 3.0Q 6MT | Member of Club 3.0


    .:. OEM+ : Custom I.C.E : Vogtland GT : Hartmann : SPP : Hawk : Goodridge : JHM : Apikol : 034 .:.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings lookaught's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 20 2007
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    2002 1.8t Avant GTRS, Aprilia SXV 550, BMW F800GS, Ram EcoDiesel, 1990 Bronco
    Location
    Lander, Wyoming

    Re: timing belt b5 vs b6 ?

    Quote Originally Posted by dougyfresh View Post
    I've got a trick for you to deal with that tensioner on the 1.8T.

    Rotate the idler pulley into the 'tensioned' position (should be a few mm off the gas shock tensioner.. I think 5mm). Place a vice-grips on the exhaust side of the head. There is a little 'shelf' there you can clamp onto. The vice grips will then rest against the idler pulley in the 'tensioned' position. The gas shock tensioner is un-touched (still compressed and locked w/ the pin). Rotate the engine clockwise by hand with a 19mm 12pt socket on the crank and the spark plugs removed. After four complete crank revolutions get the crank back to TDC cyl#1. Recheck cam timing and such. If things are still in time and you're not 1/2 a tooth off on the belt you're good to go. Whilst holding the idler pulley in its 'tensioned' position with your right hand, release the vice grips with the left hand and immediately pull the pin on the gas tensioner. The gas tensioner will extend out onto the idler pulley and you're all tensioned and good to go.

    The alternative is to just remove the gas tensioner and slowly compress it in a bench vise to get it back to the 'locked' position with the pin. That is, if you have to reset the timing belt because you're 1/2 a tooth off. Then rebolt the gas shock tensioner onto the engine and reset the timing belt tension (again)..

    I like using the vice grip method to crank the motor over a few times by hand to verify alles ist guten prior to buttoning everything up. Its easier than having to recompress the gas shock tensioner if you've fcvked up and are 1/2 a tooth off on the TB.
    Thanks for the tip, hopefully I wont need it for another 70k miles! When I did the belt on my car I obsessed over the proper tension for at least 30 minutes, adjusting where I bolted down the eccentric pulley center bolt and then using the 8mm allen hole in the roller and a socketed key on a small breaker to 'pre-tension' the belt to about a 7mm gap away from the dampner. I just got it where I thought the belt felt to be the right "taughtness" for lack of a better word, locktited everything and pulled the pin!

    I managed to get it spot on on the first try. Thank god. If I were to do it again I think it would be much easier, I had to figure out how it all worked the first time around.

    Thanks for the help with Gab's oil btw, she was of course very appreciative.
    Jon

    go > show

    Ich liebe mein Audi

    2002 GTRS Avant - Built with love, sweat, bloody knuckles, and pride.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings dougyfresh's Avatar
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    connecticut

    Re: timing belt b5 vs b6 ?

    Quote Originally Posted by lookaught View Post
    Thanks for the tip, hopefully I wont need it for another 70k miles! When I did the belt on my car I obsessed over the proper tension for at least 30 minutes, adjusting where I bolted down the eccentric pulley center bolt and then using the 8mm allen hole in the roller and a socketed key on a small breaker to 'pre-tension' the belt to about a 7mm gap away from the dampner. I just got it where I thought the belt felt to be the right "taughtness" for lack of a better word, locktited everything and pulled the pin!

    I managed to get it spot on on the first try. Thank god. If I were to do it again I think it would be much easier, I had to figure out how it all worked the first time around.

    Thanks for the help with Gab's oil btw, she was of course very appreciative.
    The first 1.8T timing belt I did (my car @ 60k) I was paranoid of doing it wrong. That was before there were any DIYs and I hardly knew anything about my car. With your attention to detail, there's no doubt you got it right. Now that you mention it, I think 7mm is the right distance. I don't have a Bentley so I don't know the specifics. I figure it out as I go along.

    No worries. Anytime. I did find some clip on the passenger fender near the airbox. Dunno where it came from. Couldn't find anything in the vicinity that looked like it was missing a clip. That oil filter is in the easiest location possible. You just have to tighten it down really tight for it not to leak.
    -Doug
    2002 A4 Avant EPL tuned 2.7T K04 6spd

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