quick question to anyone who has changed a front drive axle or cv boot.

[01b5a4qms]

ok, so i've been changing a cv boot on my 01 audi and i am almost done. but when trying to place the shaft back into the hub, it doesn't go in at all. it seemed to come out smooth so i thought thats how it would go in. so now my question is, is that how it's supposed to be and i just get everything put together and torque it into place. Or is something f'ed up and i need a new one. quick responce greatly appriciated.

[Poopie]

where did you order the axle from? double check the part numbers. Also compare the length to the original one a well as the splines on the shaft.

[01b5a4qms]

it's acctually the exact same one. i just changed the boot and repacked the joint. no new axle at all...

[Nebone]

I'm in the middle of the same exact repair now. I just pulled my axle out but the boot kit did not come with a large clamp wtf. Did you take out the ABS sensor? Pull it out first and then insert the spline into the hub and just tighten it hard with the bolt. Torque it when its down on the ground with wheel on. You will most likely damage the sensor if it's still in.

I did not have to remove the pinch bolt or any of the control arms. I just moved the axle toward the transmission and it came right out.

[Poopie]

how do you have your suspension apart? or are you just cocking the wheel all the way to one side? That works on the drivers side, but on the passenger you actually have to release the pinch bolt or the 3 that hold the upper control arm mount to the chassis. Maybe you just arne't getting a good angle. It needs to go in straight.

another method you can try is lining up the bolt hole as good as you can, thread in the bolt, and see if can gently pull it gether. key word is GENTLY.

[djwimbo]

spray some PB Blaster or WD40 on the splines and wiggle. Some are tighter than others (insert funny joke here) and take more effort to reinstall.

If you can get some of the splines into/through the hub and bearing you can use the bolt to pull the joint into place.

[djwimbo]

That works on the drivers side, but on the passenger you actually have to release the pinch bolt or the 3 that hold the upper control arm mount to the chassis.

You're trying WAY too hard.

If you're only replacing the outer boot you don't need to remove the axle from the car.

Turn the wheel right if you're doing the left and vice versa. Either take the nut off the lower rear ball joint or pull the bolt for the inner pivot of the lower rear arm. The ball joint is easier if you ask me.
Drop the control arm down and push the spindle out of the way. Make sure the axle bolt is already out at this time. That'll open up enough room to do whatever you need.

[01b5a4qms]

no i don't have the suspention apart, and yes its on the driver side. i'll try some wd-40. didn't think of that for some reason... haha! i'll give it a few more tries and let you know. thanks guys.

[djwimbo]

7 replies in 13 mins, is that quick enough?

[Black_97 A4]

its easier to just change the whole axle than the cv boot and probably in the end cheaper..

[Nebone]

Depends how long it has been driven on with the bad boot. $35 vs ~$150 sounds cheaper to me. Only if they supplied the clamp.

Is your new boot plastic? My old one is rubber and new one is plastic

[Poopie]

a boot kit is like 20 bucks. if they cv joint is still good then i would rather replace the boot then the whole axle. Besides raxles.com there are not too many good axle remanufactures.

[Poopie]

Depends how long it has been driven on with the bad boot. $35 vs ~$150 sounds cheaper to me. Only if they supplied the clamp.

Is your new boot plastic? My old one is rubber and new one is plastic

when i did mine a few years back it felt like stiff plastic but after a while it softened up. The grease probably softened it up.

[01b5a4qms]

haha! yea, thats plenty in that time. thank you guys. a little wd and some leverage did the job. and yea, i see now it would have been tons easier to do the whole axle and not just the boot. and i took the time to pack both side cause when i put a spec stage 3 on my car i didn't pack the inside. so it was just to set everything square. but thank you guys again. first question on the site and very satisfied. took 2 days min. for me to get a post on audiworld...

[Poopie]

it takes me 2 days to find my original post there.

[djwimbo]

that's what we're here for.


... I'm a nerd, I can't help myself.

[01b5a4qms]

i'm the same. it's just i'm learning the stuff you guys already know. i study audi forums like a bible. haha! and might i say i do like the thread setup better here to. lot easier to read and follow i guess.

[Squarrl]

anyone have a diy for the inner cv?

[Nebone]

I did my axle today. The bolt that came with the kid was M16 but a little longer. Changed the boot put everything back together and torqued the bolt to 140 ft*lb but there was no way I could do another half turn on it, all I was able to dish out was another 1/8th turn. Then ABS light. Damit

[B5A4Kevin]

there's 2 types of the boots. the rubber and urethane. find out which is equipped on your vehicle because most do not interchange (wrong diameter boot/clamps or different bolt). are you having trouble getting the splines of the shaft into the joint; or getting the splines of the joint into the spindle. either way make sure none of the splines are damaged from trying to put it in crooked. you can use a triangular file to clean them up if they are lightly damaged. if you are trying to get the axle joint onto the shaft splines, line them up and it will go on about 1/4". then use a dead blow hammer to pop it fully on. remember not to damage the splines. the easiest way for me to access the cv, personally, is to take out the 13mm bolt on top of the tie rod, and the 2 16mm bolts (tie rod & upper links). then the entire spindle becomes very easy to move around and gives lots of room to work. i also don't remove the entire axle nor do i remove the abs sensor. again this is just how i do it but ive never had a problem. i have heard of instances of damage to the inner joint by using this method. . this method also doesn't work very well if the car is from up north and the bolts are either rusted or seized. good luck. peace.

[gabe-real49]

i replaced both my front outer boots about a year ago... found the drivers side boot ripped when i had my tires rotated recently, which was obvious from the amount of grease on my wheels... The brand was either Meyle or Mahle, but the boot was the plastic like feeling one...