DIY - B6 1.8t - Vacuum line and Check Valve removal/simplification

[absolutegtr]

Well I just finished getting rid of all the “unneeded” check valves, vacuum lines and PCV system. There is now a lot more room to work with….valve cover gasket is about a 10 minute job, and the coolant flange is 15 minutes top!

Honestly, you could go ahead and follow this DIY and just rid yourself of the lines/valves, but I would HIGHLY recommend you read the following two links (in order) so you can gain a better understanding of the system, how it works, and where to look if something goes wrong.

(Most of thread is bits here and there, but mainly pages 3-5)
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...hlight=in-line

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ight=n112+n249

After reading all that, lets proceed with the pics! (Then again you read those two links fully, so you should be able to do this blindfolded……right? )

Unfortunately all pics were taken with my Blackjack 2

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~

First and foremost, make yourself very familiar with this picture and its terms and the general idea of how the vacuum lines will look like after it is all said and done: (Thanks to Daniel (b6lovin) for this beautiful diagram and his help )



Time to start tearing your car apart!

Remove air snorkel and airbox:
Before


After



PCV system removal

Remove plastic cover and ignition coil harness (don’t forget to unbolt that 10mm bolt in-between coilpack 1&2)


Now we will remove the PCV breather tube:
Loosen the hose clamp that is circled


Remove the 3 hex bolts that attach the breather tube to the valve cover (the third hex bolt can be seen in the next pic)


Loosen the three crankcase breather hose clamps that are circled (the third hose clamp can be seen in the next pic)






EGR/SAI system removal

Next we will be removing the EGR valve and its breather tube (for this you will have to have the Integrated Engineering block off plate. I would recommend you get it through Apex Tuning - great customer service )
Remove the one-time-use hose clamp that is circled and also unbolt the three 5mm hex bolts that are in-between the head and firewall)


Remove the two 10mm bolts that are circled


Next remove the hose clamp at the end of that tube (near the TIP) and remove the whole tube


The EGR valve will also be removed at that same time and here is a better pic of how those three 5mm hex bolts are configured


At this point this is how it should all look


Now we will be installing that Integrated Engineering block off plate in place of the EGR valve


Just bolt it in place with the supplied bolts (make sure that the supplied o-ring is also in its place)


Now we are removing the secondary air pump. Remove the two plastic lines that are connected to the pump




Unclip the harness and unbolt the three bolts


With all that out the way you can now unbolt the air pump bracket. There are three 10mm bolts (one from under car and two from up top)




Now lets remove this tube


The are two 5mm hex bolts that hold it to the turbo (one from up top and one from underneath - the bolts are adjacent to one another)


Lets finish off with the passenger side, so let remove the hose clamp from the pancake valve and the plug up thr TIP.


I temporarily plugged it with this


Now we must plug one more line on the TIP (it is the line that ran off of the bottom of the airbox)….(disregard the bottom half of the picture…it does refer to the step just mentioned above though.)

[absolutegtr]

Move over to the purge solenoid and remove the indicated (pictured red) hose. It wraps all the way around the firewall and somewhere underneath the intake manifold…remove it all.


Time to move on to the drivers side of the car! (We just finished the passengers side lines)


Although the drivers side (mainly underneath the intake manifold) looks fairly complicated, it is quite simple. EVERY vacuum hose underneath and behind the intake manifold is to be removed.

First remove the coolant reservoir and place to the side:


Next unbolt the plate that carries the N112 and N249 valves. The plate is attached to the underside of the intake manifold and is secured by three (I believe) 10mm bolts. Here is the bolt configuration:


Here is another pic with the valve totally removed (for better reference). Furthermore, with the two N-valves in plain view, go ahead and attach some vacuum hose in a loop as it is pictured by the perfect drawing of that blue-shaped monstrosity . (By the way, after this whole process is all said and done, the two valves must be plugged back in and replaced underneath the intake manifold. don’t worry about the other ports being open)


At this point go ahead and attach the vacuum line for the diverter valve (it is the line that was initially attached to the N-249 valve) and plug it directly into the manifold, ( at the port right next to the first intake runner)…no pics.

Now you can gain access to all the vacuum lines and check valves! All the hoses use one-time-use hose clamps which are bitch to take off, but getting a screwdriver in there and prying upon it, will easily break it loose (it is an acquired skill, that will be found taking off these many clamps, lol). In the following pics remove all the lines that are colored red. You can just cut them with some wire-cutters, but be careful because some of the vacuum lines run near/on some of the coolant lines. (Remove all lines that are in red)





Now, if you look there will be a hard line/tube that is part of the crankcase breather system (it is behind the head and between the firewall). To remove that line….look down low, and you will see one 5mm hex bolt connected to the turbo oil line, remove it)


By now, your pile of junk should look like this:




We are finally done removing all the lines/check-valves/etc!

Now the important stuff.

Using either new vacuum hose or existing vacuum hose, attach the brake booster to either of the two port circled. After you attach the brake booster you must plug the other port. This is how I temporarily set it up.


The other port that is plugged.


**NOTE** There is yet ANOTHER port that must be plugged (if you have a 2002 it is underneath the throttle body area)


If you have a 2003 or newer the third port is adjacent to the second port and its right next to the throttle position sensor,...sorry no pics.....your on your own, but since you read those two links at the very top, it provided you with more than enough info, you should completely understand!

JUST ONE MORE STEP LEFT !!

Using the factory crankcase breather (T-fitting) run a piece of heater/vacuum hose down to the crank breather and T it with the valve cover and then run it down to the bottom of the car, so it can dump below and out of sight!




****Note**** I forgot which step it was but there is bolt that must be removed from the coolant flange, in order to get one of the black pipes off. You MUST replace that bolt right after you remove that black pipe. I just went through 2 gallons of coolant before I realized where the hell the leak was coming from!!



Now double check everything! Here is the diagram for the people who are still running the stock N75 valve and a TIP.







This is how it should look like all done!



Crank your car up and make sure it runs good and there are no vacuum leaks….otherwise your car will be misfiring like a mofo….ask me how I know



I hope this all make sense, and I will go over my spelling/grammar errors in the morning, I’m tired, lol

Have fun!

-Sami

[AudiA4Turbo22]

i love u lolllll. This rocks i might have to give this a go.

[Dirty]

Awesome , Thank you!

[ThatGuyAlex]

any cells yet? And thank you!

[starfriend]

wow, i've done this myself when i went bt, but man... this must be one of the best DIY on the forums! thanks for doing this!

[HTA A4]

'Ata boy! BTW, how do you keep your engine bay so clean??

[Killerteve]

You're awesome man! This will simplify things so much when I make my custom intake for my BT setup. Ur gettin a thumbs up.

[dougyfresh]

any cells yet? And thank you!

You will get one for SAI 'Insufficient Flow' unless your tuner has changed that within the ECu. IF the N249 and N111 are plugged in you should not get a code for those.


Sammi, looks good, however you still want a few checkvalves to keep the flow of crankcase vapors in one direction. Did you tie it back into your TIP or into a catch-can?

[A4ringedONE8T]

Looks good except just to clarify, make sure your crank vent and valve cover vent are not connected to the vac source going to the brake booster. The first diagram is a little deceiving.

[Rem-Rock]

Damn this is awesome. I can't wait to get to it. To bad I work 7days a week. I will find time though. THank you.

[zims666]

thanks for this long awaited write up.
good work.

[jbrown7815]

Great DIY

[zims666]

not thread jacking or taking ANY credit, but here is some useful info that i had saved from other threads on this topic. tried to clean it up a bit... all this does is put names to the faces supplied above


--Nothing in the PCV system is connected to the ECU.
Remove all the crank vent shit under the intake manifold as well as its connection to the intake manifold.

--Run a 1" hose from the crank breather (on top of the oil filter housing) up to the valve cover breather, T it to another 1" line which you can either dump under the car or connect it to a catch can, then run a line from the catch can to the TIP, your choice.
The only thing that needs the 1" hose is the crank and valve cover breather, (which you T those two together, then dump them under the car)
It is preferred to have absolutely zero oil crap going into the motor so just have a 1" stainless hose running down below to tranny to vent any excess pressure or oil residue

--Without triggering a CEL, you can remove pretty everything except SAI. To remove SAI without CEL, use block off plate: (google: APEX TUNING) will not trigger a CEL as long as the solenoid is plugged in (the one thats on the back of the intake box from the factory).

--You can remove the N249 and N112 vac lines as long as you keep the solenoids plugged in (or put resistors in there place)

--The hard plastic line connection to the airbox is the feed for the SAI pump. If you remove that or the SAI system, you will get a CEL.

--The suction pump can be removed, that gets rid of 3 check valves.
You will then need to connect the brake booster directly to the intake manifold.

--The other 3 check valves that are small (black/grey) are for EVAP, one on top of the air box and two over under the intake manifold. That can be removed if you wish, no CEL.

--You will need to keep the solenoid connected on the pass side of the car to the line coming from the fuel tank. The solenoid still needs to be able to purge vapor pressure build up from the tank. If there is gas pressure in the tank it will vent on it's own. That's how equalizing pressures work
Everything between the solenoid and the motor after the solenoid on the passenger side can be removed; including its connections to the TIP and to the intake manifold.
EVAP purge valve needs to stay connected to the line from the tank, the line that comes from the passenger fenderwell.

--The two check valves on the driver side are the feed lines for the charcoal canister in the drivers side wheel well. There are two quick disconnects for those lines right under the power steering fluid resevoir. Just disconnect them there unless you want to pull the canister and everything from the fenderwell.

--The only things remaining after that are the vac line feeds for the N112 and N249. N112 is for SAI, it needs to remain if your keeping SAI. N249 is how the ECU electronically controls the DV. It can be removed, just connect the DV directly to the intake manifold which yields quicker DV response from boost/vac pressure, NOT the ECU!


1) But I still am confused as to what i do with the EVAP purge valve. Doesnt that release gas-fume build up from the tank? That is obviously necessary.
1) EVAP purge valve needs to stay connected to the line from the tank, the line that comes from the passenger fenderwell. Everything between the solenoid and the motor can be removed. It needs to stay plugged in and connected to the tank feed line in order to bleed off any fume or pressure buildup. if there is gas pressure in the tank it will vent on it's own. that's how equalizing pressures work

2) Another thing is what is the LDP (Leak Detection Pump - V144) and where does that lead to?
2) The LDP (leak detection pump) is mounted beside the charcoal canister and as long as the EVAP purge valve stays intact it will function normally. The LDP is up under the spare tire next to the EVAP charcoal canister accessed from underneath the car. It vents under the left rear wheel liner. So obviously the charcoal canister and LDP must stay..... couldn't tell you for sure, must've taken mine out though.. no issues to speak of
3) Do all the TIP connections/ports get blocked off (with the exeption to the N75 connection)?
3) Yes, everything unless you're using an N75, even then it doesnt HAVE to be connected to the TIP. If you're running an external wg setup, the N75 port normally in the TIP can be connected to the top port on the WG. yes block them all off. if you still have your MAF/TIP leave the N75 in and connected. if you're like me and have no MAF/TIP you probably don't need the n75


1) What gets done with the Vacuum reservoir? 1Take it out. The vacuum reservoir helps maintain vacuum within the system when the engine is boosting. It is located under the front left wheel liner
2) The N112 valve must stay to avoid a CEL, correct? 2) leave it plugged in the harness or put a resistor in its place. i've left all my valves PLUGGED IN for now, but they are all secured out of the way (sort of in the battery tray)
3) What gets done with the N249 valve? 3) same as 2
4) Do you just cap off the line coming from the Charcoal canister (after or before the sensor)?
4) Either remove it, or leave it as is. If you remove just the quick disconnects by the power steering reservoir, no need to cap anything off, it will not have anything coming to or from it after you disconnect the line from the purge solenoid on the pass side. i have shortened and capped the line on the PASSENGER side. everything after that line (on the EVAP system) has been removed on my car


sorry, hope this didnt muddy the waters TOO much. i also am wanting to do this mod, but am living fear of CEL's and crankcase vapor...

[absolutegtr]

zimms66, thanks for that! Those mare pretty much all the good bits of info

[absolutegtr]

You will get one for SAI 'Insufficient Flow' unless your tuner has changed that within the ECu. IF the N249 and N111 are plugged in you should not get a code for those.


Sammi, looks good, however you still want a few checkvalves to keep the flow of crankcase vapors in one direction. Did you tie it back into your TIP or into a catch-can?

As of right now, I just have it dumping out besides the bellhouse. In the VERY near future, I will be going with Daniels suggestion and running it attached to the exhaust (since the exhuast flow will create a constant vacuum)

In theory it makes good sense

[absolutegtr]

Looks good except just to clarify, make sure your crank vent and valve cover vent are not connected to the vac source going to the brake booster. The first diagram is a little deceiving.

EDIT** Updated with a better drawing


Here is the diagram for the people who are still running the stock N75 valve and a TIP.

[A4ringedONE8T]

And for your own good for the brake booster line, clamp that shit @ the grommet that goes through the firewall. I think Ive blown that f'er off 20 times, finally gave up on the barbed fitting holding it and put a clamp on it. No problems since!

[LampyB]

this is an awesome DIY, thanks Sami! i'm going to get this done some time before winter hits.

[smarrick]

Awesome.

As long as eveyone knows if you do this there is no way to pass emissions. But fuck the govrment anyway right?

[absolutegtr]

Awesome.

As long as eveyone knows if you do this there is no way to pass emissions. But fuck the govrment anyway right?

Hey, they're screwing us over anyways.

But yea, there is no way you would pass emissions

[jbrown7815]

Great DIY, but damn your camera [guessing phone] sucks.

[dougyfresh]

But yea, there is no way you would pass emissions

If there is no visual and your car passes readiness checks they you should pass.

My car passes because there is no visual and all my readiness checks are green (pass) when you plug the computer into my OBDII port.

[ThatGuyAlex]

Hey, they're screwing us over anyways.

But yea, there is no way you would pass emissions

all depends on the guy at the smog station. lol if ur nice to him and bring him Starbucks im sure he will pretend he saw everything under the hood in good order

[zims666]

If there is no visual and your car passes readiness checks they you should pass.

My car passes because there is no visual and all my readiness checks are green (pass) when you plug the computer into my OBDII port.

ok mysterio. out with it. how do you pull that one off? i know how to clear the visual, but the readiness checks?
granted, i live in NC & the moe moes at jiffy lube will pass anything with 4 wheels... but that info would help

[smarrick]

Also completely depends on where you live. Sometimes it is a 16 year old at Jiffy Lube that doesn't give a shit and sometimes it is a state run testing facility that knows and cares about the tests. Harder to cheat those. All depends on your State and Local emissions standards.

[k0mpresd]

ok mysterio. out with it. how do you pull that one off? i know how to clear the visual, but the readiness checks?
granted, i live in NC & the moe moes at jiffy lube will pass anything with 4 wheels... but that info would help

sounds like his tuner did the hex edit mod. ;) haha. something like this.

[dougyfresh]

ok maestro. out with it. how do you pull that one off? i know how to clear the visual, but the readiness checks?
granted, i live in NC & the moe moes at jiffy lube will pass anything with 4 wheels... but that info would help

My tuner has gone into the ECu and adjusted a few things for me. I went through inspection this past February and passed with flying colors with the car as it currently stands (albeit 1.8L versus 2.0L but still a big turbo with SAI removed).

There have been a few discussions about this in the B6 A4 forum (search). Specifically passing the readiness for SAI Insufficient flow (what I have done).

In some states you do not have to pass all the readiness checks but a certain percentage (ex: 7 out of 9). Its best to check with your state on their requirements.


EDIT: Yes, Ian.

[ThatGuyAlex]

Indeed. Heres a better drawing.

my only question is...

my car is stock besides full APR exhaust, gutted airbox and soon to be GIAC chipped and maybe front mount and Dahlback DV.

Will i still need the N75?

or can you make a picture for everyone with still stock stuff and not BT yet. lol (im just getting confused looking at the pictures with eveything missing and rerouted, just cause i do not see a TIP)

thanks

[FORCE_FED_DUB]

you CAN fail visual (if you have visual inspections), but the readiness can be kept if:
1) you leave everything plugged in
OR
2) put resistors in place of deleted electrical components
OR
3) Unitronic can write them out as part of their BT chips (although a BT may cause you to fail visual in the first place)

and i guess option #4, register the car in a non-emissions place (county, state, etc). EX: in CO only denver metro counties have emissions. Also keep in mind the sad day when you will part with your car, as it is seller's responsibility to make the car pass emissions (again, atleast in CO, your area may differ).

i pulled all this emissions related or otherwise flawed BS off of the 1.8T in my GTi. gotta love 1992 emissions standards!

[Capt. Obvious]

AWESOME write-up. This is going to help a lot of people!

[absolutegtr]

my only question is...

my car is stock besides full APR exhaust, gutted airbox and soon to be GIAC chipped and maybe front mount and Dahlback DV.

Will i still need the N75?

or can you make a picture for everyone with still stock stuff and not BT yet. lol (im just getting confused looking at the pictures with eveything missing and rerouted, just cause i do not see a TIP)

thanks

Yes you should keep the stock N75.

I will make a pic for the stock people (like myself) to better understand

[ThatGuyAlex]

Yes you should keep the stock N75.

I will make a pic for the stock people (like myself) to better understand

sweet. thank you

[absolutegtr]

(I am adding this to my original/2nd post)

Here is the diagram for the people who are still running the stock N75 valve and a TIP.

[AudiA4_20T]

ballin, thanks man

Tell me this, what did u do with the EVAP shit, did u give any of it a vacuum source?

[absolutegtr]

ballin, thanks man

Tell me this, what did u do with the EVAP shit, did u give any of it a vacuum source?

No. I am just venting the purge solenoid (the one on top of the airbox) to the atmosphere. The other two lines (that branch off of it) were just closed/disconnected)

[AudiA4_20T]

No. I am just venting the purge solenoid (the one on top of the airbox) to the atmosphere. The other two lines (that branch off of it) were just closed/disconnected)

dont you need a vacuum source?

[absolutegtr]

dont you need a vacuum source?

From the info I have gathered from shawn and daniel, its that it can be vented.

Both of them just have the line and solenoid (it must be plugged in) in the front passenger fenderwell.....which I plan to do when i get a chance.

[2001S4NY]

removing CEL Sensors out of the ECU is always fun :)

[Killerteve]

I've ready in previous threads that removing the CAI can hurt cold starts. It gets pretty cold here in the winter some times- cold enough for my car to cough a little starting in the morning. I know test pipes affect this too(which I also have), so would you not recommend removing the SAI in places where it gets cold or is it no big deal?