Clutch Question... Yet again.

[sambrody44]

Well for those of you that remember, this is my third post about clutches.

If you remember the second, it was about a body shop blowing up my clutch two months after installing it. Well I replaced that with a FE SS and kept the AWE LWFW that I put in with the previous clutch.

When I first picked it up it felt pretty high for a new clutch. After probably less then 5,000 miles, it feels like i need a new clutch. The car is stuttering while starting in first and feels really high. Keep in mind I've never launched it because I'm to paranoid about it blowing, that and the fact that I never really felt like it was right.

When I first put the LWFW in I held it up in comparison with the stock Fly Wheel and notices that it is a lot thinner then stock. I'm thinking this is the root of my problem and why my clutch feels so shitty? Because the clutch has to travel further to make contact?

Is there any way to remedy this? I can't afford a new clutch and it would be a stretch to put a new flywheel in it as well, if you can even do that without changing the clutch as well. Did they do something wrong when they installed it?

Please help because I'm freaked out.

[sambrody44]

Bump

[dougyfresh]

Does the clutch slip at all once fully engaged?

Do you have a picture of the LWFW next to the DMFW showing the thickness differences? If it is thinner then that would explain why the pedal releases so high. The SB clutches (OFE and FE) release very low.

[sambrody44]

No slippage at all. IIRC the LWFW was like an inch thinner.

[dougyfresh]

Are all the LWFWs thinner than the DMFW? I've only worked with DMFWs. If so, then the clutch package should account for that. Well, in theory, I would think that would be the case. In short, I don't exactly know the answer to your problem.

[sambrody44]

Well the LWFW was originally part of the stage 2 package from AWE, Click. But looking back on it, I don't think the Body Shop blew it up, although they were rough on it, because you could see the burn spots from where they dropped it. But the friction surface was still intact. The clutch was high with that set up too. When I replaced it, it was with a FE SS. So I don't know... Is there any hydraulic adjustments that could be made to compensate for the thinner flywheel.

I'm really kicking myself here.

[dougyfresh]

I don't think there are any adjustments. Hence the hydraulic system (self adjusting for clutch disc wear).

[mike-2ptzero]

No slippage at all. IIRC the LWFW was like an inch thinner.

What part of the lwfw are you measuring to compare to the stock flywheel?


The thickness of the 2 flywheels should be about the same at the surface area and spot where the pressure plate bolts down, the area where you put the bolts to mount the lwfw to the crank flange is thinner so that a sprung disk can be used.

[sambrody44]

Everything about it seemed to be thinner.

[sambrody44]

Maybe they didn't bleed my slave cylinder when they installed it? Or maybe it's the throwout bearing?

[dougyfresh]

There shouldn't be a need to touch the slave cylinder hydraulics when doing a clutch install.

Throw-out bearing should have been replaced with the clutch.

Bleeding it would be a good first step to see if the symptoms go away.

[sambrody44]

Thats what I was thinking... Is there a DIY on it?

[dougyfresh]

Thats what I was thinking... Is there a DIY on it?

http://audizine.com/forum/showthread...slave+cylinder

[sambrody44]

Thanks Doug.

BTW, I opted out of Hartford. Turned out it wasn't really for me.

[sambrody44]

What would happen if, theoretically of course, the throwout bearing wasn't replaced?

[dougyfresh]

Thanks Doug.

BTW, I opted out of Hartford. Turned out it wasn't really for me.

No problem.

Gotcha. Some schools are good for some, others are good for others. I wish you the best!



How old is the throw-out bearing?

[sambrody44]

If it hasn't been replaced then it would have almost 70k on it.