Torque for the Valce Cover Bolts

**Seerlah** · 09-15-2008 05:03 AM

I am going to be replacing my valve cover gasket today, and was wondering how important it is to torque the valve cover to 7ft/lbs? Can I just tighten them by hand?

I have the bits, but they are for 1/4" ratchet and my torque wrench uses a 1/2" drive and I have a 3/8" adapter. If it is that important, I will get a 1/4" adapter. But if I can just tighten it by hand with no issues I would rather just take that route. I hear you can turn them till they get tight, then add an extra half turn. 7ft/lbs is not that tight.

Thanks!

*pardon the title spell check mishap. "Torque for Valve Cover Bolts"

**Seerlah** · 09-15-2008 06:16 AM

NVMD, I am just going to hand tighten anyways. My torque wrench has a minimum of 10 ft/lbs, so I am not going to get another one for this task.

**dougyfresh** · 09-15-2008 06:45 AM

Good and tight for the valve cover studs. Even pressure on all of the studs. Keep an eye on the gasket to visually determine even pressure.

I torqued down the cam bearing caps with a torque wrench but I can not remember the torque.

Were you successful? How did the job go?

**Seerlah** · 09-15-2008 07:14 AM

I am actually doing to task right now. But I can't get the pipe that runs along the heat shield to move so I can take the cover off. There is a flange on the pipe from the combination valve for secondary air inlet that is connected to the valve cover, which holds the heat sheild, that I need to move to the side to be able to lift the valve cover off. That flange does not permit me to move the valve cover off (my only problem as of now). This is my first time tackling this job, so bear with me. I took off the clamp that connects to valve behind the cylinder head, but the pipe is on there really snug. I want to use PB Blaster on it to get it budging, but I am not sure how the chemical compound will effect the rubber hose. The metal part I am sure the PB Blaster will have no effects. But what are the after effects of placing that on a rubber hose? Thanks!

**dougyfresh** · 09-15-2008 07:26 AM

Are you referring to the SAI pipe? I've just gently moved it aside in the past (using a big screwdriver). I think you have to remove the combination valve from the back of the head to 'cleanly' get the pipe aside. Something I do not recommend doing since those two bolts for the combination valve are a bitch to get to.

The other pipe that resides over there goes into the back of the valve cover. There is a 5mm bolt in-front of the combination valve that bolts it to the valve cover. That pipe can be removed whole-heartly.

I can't see any photos (if you posted any) from here at work so if my description is off email me a photo and I'll get it on my phone to verify. dougyfresh at vt dot edu

Damn SAI. Everyone should remove that junk. No SAI makes working on the engine so much easier. I love how my SAI is in a box in my basement.

**Seerlah** · 09-15-2008 07:30 AM

I will go and find that bolt you are referring to and try and move the pipe to the side. But yes, it is the SAI pipe. If any problems, I will email you. Thanks!

**dougyfresh** · 09-15-2008 07:39 AM

Its been a while since I've worked with an engine that has SAI on it. If I remember correctly there are a few bolts that are along the exhaust side of the valve cover that bolt these two lines to the valve cover. A 5mm allen wrench gets them out. Remove them and the bolt in the back. You can then remove the PCV hard line like I mentioned and carefully pry the SAI hard line towards the passenger side of the engine compartment. Enough to lift the valve cover up and off. Email me a photo if you get stuck.

**Seerlah** · 09-15-2008 08:52 AM

I just bent the flange back for one of the bolts that attaches the pipe for the SAI to the valve cover. There is another bolt I am sure can hold it securely there. And I found out my leak was indeed from the gasket and not the cam tensioner seal. So I canned that project altogether. Plus I could not get any of those bolts off (4 that held the metal gasket in place). And to add to the mishap, Idropped one of the nuts for the valve cover in the engine bay. But I heard it hit the belly pan, so no biggie. The one part though is I will have to start my car to get my car onto a ramp to get to the belly pan. I don't own a hydrolic jack or jack stands. So, hopefully that one nut missing will not cause me to to leak any oil anywhere. I think I will choose the middle nut closer to the spark plug for last (one that dropped). If any oil is on the spark plugs after that, I will just see if it persists after I replace the nut.

Painting valve cover also, so I will have to wait for that to dry.