Clutch Slave Cylinder Install Tips and Bleeding 101 by JHM

[zillarob]

If you didnt miss and blow it up the 1st time, you did it wrong

[getslideways]

Remote Bleeder Line would save a lot of wrists

The GTO and Corvette guys do it (this is from an LS in an E36):

[ElementR]

That's a nice option. My wrists/arms were already sliced from fighting the slave. I installed it from the top and had extra room since I hadn't yet installed the coolant bottle nor intake manifold. Had I had to do it all over again, I would have disconnected the hydraulic line from the slave before I pulled the engine/trans and installed the slave on the trans before dropping the engine/trans assembly back in the car. Hooking up the hydraulic line and bleeding the system is a cake walk in comparison to fighting the slave.

[Seerlah]

More times than less, when dealing with tight spaces the extra padding on the arms from a garment can make that tight squeeze basically unsqueezable now. Scratched arms comes with the territory. Currently dreading having to go outside to plug a flat tire. 41 degree weather. Wish I could just throw my winter setup up on and call it a day...which I might just end up doing.

The things we put ourselves through all for the love of

[ElementR]

Yep...

[Lanorg]

I bled my slave and the pedal feels firmer but something else is happening. Theres a whine that is directly related to rpm when the clutch is depressed i feel lime it was there before but has grown significantly louder over the past two tanks of fuel.

Do I have to bleed the slave more? Is this more of a master problem?

Not sure whats causing the noise and all gears shift smooth. Doubt theres any clutch drag. Debug steps appreciated.

[slowSfaux]

That's likely your throw out bearing. If it makes the noise anytime you press on the clutch pedal (and the engine is running), and the noise goes away anytime you release the clutch pedal, it's like 90% certainly the tob.

[Lanorg]

Definitely. Maybe I didn't lube her like she wanted and now I gotta hear about it until I do a pull again. No way am I chancing a spray can lube trying to aim at the TOB from a vent hole.

[RobParker]

Ok so I am having a huge D level tech moment today. 1st, put a new slave in while the transmission was out, after trying all different ways to bleed once the transmission was back in the car (gravity, pressure bleeder, buddy assisted, etc) there was still too much air in the slave. So pulled the axle and heat shield, got the slave off, dunked the line in brake fluid and gave it a few pumps to get some fluid in there, and attempted (about 25 times now) to put it back in and I can line it up but the damn thing will NOT go in far enough to get the bolt on. ANY tips would make my forearms very greatful.

[Kenrevo]

Ok so I am having a huge D level tech moment today. 1st, put a new slave in while the transmission was out, after trying all different ways to bleed once the transmission was back in the car (gravity, pressure bleeder, buddy assisted, etc) there was still too much air in the slave. So pulled the axle and heat shield, got the slave off, dunked the line in brake fluid and gave it a few pumps to get some fluid in there, and attempted (about 25 times now) to put it back in and I can line it up but the damn thing will NOT go in far enough to get the bolt on. ANY tips would make my forearms very greatful.

I found it easier to go in thought the top. You run your hand down where the Coolent tank goes.

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[RobParker]

I found it easier to go in thought the top. You run your hand down where the Coolent tank goes.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

How small are your arms? lol

[Kenrevo]

How small are your arms? lol

Not small at all, I row. Haha It's a tight fit but I found it easier to get the slave in than going in from underneath. I hand the coolent tank and y pipe off the car.

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[Monty23]

Ok so I am having a huge D level tech moment today. 1st, put a new slave in while the transmission was out, after trying all different ways to bleed once the transmission was back in the car (gravity, pressure bleeder, buddy assisted, etc) there was still too much air in the slave. So pulled the axle and heat shield, got the slave off, dunked the line in brake fluid and gave it a few pumps to get some fluid in there, and attempted (about 25 times now) to put it back in and I can line it up but the damn thing will NOT go in far enough to get the bolt on. ANY tips would make my forearms very greatful.

Run a rubber hose from the bleeder screw to a bottle. Gravity bleed with the slave at an angle that will ensure trapped air will rise "up" to the bleeder and out into the bottle. Pass enough fluid into the bottle so that the rubber hose end will always be submerged. Leaving the bleeder screw loose, install the slave (rod should compress easily with the bleeder open). The rubber hose keeps air from re-entering the slave.

[JVD]

Ya, if it's not pressurized just push it until you can rest it on the little lip on the trans once compressed. Then thread the bolt.

- - - Updated - - -

Wait, what slave did you use? I got a metal one once that had nubs on the part that gets bolted to the trans. Had to file them down so the bolt hole would line up.

[RobParker]

Ya, if it's not pressurized just push it until you can rest it on the little lip on the trans once compressed. Then thread the bolt.

- - - Updated - - -

Wait, what slave did you use? I got a metal one once that had nubs on the part that gets bolted to the trans. Had to file them down so the bolt hole would line up.

I used the Sachs plastic one. Current set up is an AMD stage 3 clutch, RS4 PP, and TTV flywheel. I bought an irrigation syringe and clear rubber hose and did a push/pull method and got a bit of air out. I'm about to jack up the rear end to ensure the bleeder screw is the highest point. If that doesn't work, then I'll put in a metal one. It has a longer rod. If THAT doesn't work, gonna have to pull it all out and take measurements.


Update: I got the slave in. I just applied a very thin layer of artillery grease (don't ask lol) to the end of the boot and the bell housing. Made things a TON easier. Current issue is now trying to get all the air out. Clutch still won't fully disengage.

[rbolen77]

I am having a blessing issue with my car. I recently rebuilt my front calipers because on of them locked up on me. After I was done putting them back on I find that I can not get any fluid to flow to the calipers. I have checked all the lines and made sure they are not blocked in any way. My brake peddle moves freely but does not feel as though it is pushing fluid, very soft. I have tried the peddle pump method and also got a hand held vacuum pump bleeder, still nothing. Am I missing something?

[Aurels]

Very good !
Thank's you for assistance

[Faline]

Sorry if this is a repeat, I'm not sure if my first reply posted:

I read through all of these wonderful tips. I installed both a new metal slave and master cylinder, with the USP braided line. I carefully installed the slave cylinder from the top. It was dry, no brake fluid yet, with the braided line connected, but other end of braided line connection open to air. It appeared to engage with the clutch fork, and I could feel very light resistance, as I pulled it to the position to where my son could get the mounting screw started, from under the car (on a jack stand). Used a pressure bleeder, with the driver front and rear jacked to a level front to back position, but both passenger side tires on ground.

I have about 2" of no resistance when pressing the clutch pedal, likely from some final air I need to bleed out, with the car entirely level. However, the pedal stops halfway down, like it has hit a hard stop. It is sounding like this is what happens when you miss the clutch fork. However, no one clarified if you feel this firm stop only when the clutch pedal is entirely down to the floor without any resistance, or if it will sometimes happen at half stroke. One member said he was pulling his tranny, when he had this symptom, but didn't respond after that...

Any additional guidance can save me a bunch of extra time. Only thing that appeared a little unusual was that the clutch fork wasn't entirely centered to the slave cylinder mounting bore. It looked a little bit cocked to the driver's side, perhaps 1/8" off center. The fork cup was polished in the center, where the previous slave cylinder rod contacted it. The fork does have a little front to back play when touching it, as the TOB touches the PP fingers. So, nothing appears seized.

Thanks!