Seafoam question on 3.0L

**AAudiA6** · 09-05-2008 10:05 AM

Hey Guys
I want to do a Seafoam on my 2002 A6 3.0, but I'm not sure where the Vac Line is located?

So I have 2 questions.
1. I'm not sure which is the FPR Vac Line on a 3.0L engine?
2. Will I have to change the Spark Plugs after the Seafoam treatment,
since apparently they get wet?

Thanks!

**Stampy** · 09-05-2008 12:49 PM

I don't know anyone including myself that had to change plugs afterward. I know some people do recommend it though. I'm not sure about the 3.0, but I used the brake booster line on my 4.2. It was right on the front of the motor and worked great. Are you doing the full treatment or just the vac line thing?

Seafoam = good stuff

**xpl0sive** · 09-08-2008 04:56 PM

Originally Posted by Stampy

I don't know anyone including myself that had to change plugs afterward. I know some people do recommend it though. I'm not sure about the 3.0, but I used the brake booster line on my 4.2. It was right on the front of the motor and worked great. Are you doing the full treatment or just the vac line thing?

Seafoam = good stuff

i've always wanted to seafoam my 4.2 how did you do yours?

**Stampy** · 09-08-2008 11:59 PM

I've done the whole treatment. 1 can in the tank. Half a can in the oil. Half through the Brake booster vacuum line on the front of the motor. Didn't really notice any difference, but I put on one hell of a smoke show. Just last week I dumped a half can into my oil about 70 miles before I changed my oil. I'm not a big fan of leaving it in for that long, but I was trying to make my cam chain tensioner shut up. Didn't help my problem, but I felt like my motor was cleaner. Seafoam is great stuff. I'll try to get a pic of the line that I used.

**Daft** · 09-09-2008 02:58 PM

I actually just did my car today. The key to doing Seafoam on any of these motor is to find a vacuum line that is direct into the intake maniold and that will allow the seafom to enter closer to the center of the intake manifold to allow even distribution of the solvent.

I plumbed a "T" fitting into a large vacuum line under the 2.7T's "Y" pipe and used a disposable plastic bowl to pour the fluid into. I started the motor and let it idle while I carefully let the vacuum line suck up sips of the fluid. As the car starts to idle rougher, get more fluid in and then shut it off. Let the car sit for about 10mins and then start it back up (plug off that vac line) and let it idle a tad. It will begin to bellow smoke at this point. Revv is up to about 2000 and watch the cloud engulf your home.

I did two rounds of this just to be as thourough as possible. Whatever plugs you have in there will be pitch black afterwards. Install new plugs when youre done with the entire process.

If you motor is horribly carbon fouled inside, you can use the soak method as well. This is when you use a turkey baster to pour the fluid into the cylinders and then leave it overnight to soak and dissolve the carbon deposits. The catch to this method is that most of the fluid will leech past the rings and drain down into the oil pan. This then contaminates the oil and you MUST drain the oil and replace it. If you wish to do the soak method, do it the night before you next oil change and then you can clean the combustion chamber while ditching your old oil too.