Car shaking

[Rkorrie2]

I just put on my wheels. 19's running 8.5 in front and 9.5 in back with +38 offset. It shakes pretty bad when doing anything over 45mph.They lined up ok but do I need hub centric spacers anyway? If so all I need is about half an inch in back and maybe .75 in front to keep the staggered look and still b able to slam it. i'm just not sure the thickness of the mm in spacers in reference to inches.please help

[old guy]

I just put on my wheels. 19's running 8.5 in front and 9.5 in back with +38 offset. It shakes pretty bad when doing anything over 45mph.They lined up ok but do I need hub centric spacers anyway? If so all I need is about half an inch in back and maybe .75 in front to keep the staggered look and still b able to slam it. i'm just not sure the thickness of the mm in spacers in reference to inches.please help

You don't need spacers, you just need hub centering rings. Measure the ID of your existing wheels and get a centering ring that has on OD that matches the wheel ID. The ID of the ring should match the Audi hub OD (57.1mm). The ring fits between the wheel and the hub and center up the wheel when you mount it. Clicky click for more info.

[Rkorrie2]

Thank alot.Just ordered them and should be here in a few days

[old guy]

Thank alot.Just ordered them and should be here in a few days

It doesn't take much to cause a problem. The centering rings should do the trick.

good luck!

[Rkorrie2]

I bought the hub centric rings and the car is still shaking. Do I need to bring my wheels to another wheel place and have them re balanced? I just have never had this type of ploblem before.The tire place has done work for me in the past with different cars and had no issues.Any ideas? please help

[old guy]

I bought the hub centric rings and the car is still shaking. Do I need to bring my wheels to another wheel place and have them re balanced? I just have never had this type of ploblem before.The tire place has done work for me in the past with different cars and had no issues.Any ideas? please help

Sorry to hear you are still having vibration problems. Read post #2 in this thread: Clicky click. Maybe it will help.

Good luck!

[Doc@tirerack]

If the correct rings are installed, then the tire shop did not balance properly.

[Rkorrie2]

Thank you for your post. I'll call some shops around Syracuse, and see if any place has the Hunter Road Force Balancer.

[old guy]

Thank you for your post. I'll call some shops around Syracuse, and see if any place has the Hunter Road Force Balancer.

There is a tab on the roadforce site you can use to locate a local shop with a roadforce balancer: Clicky click

[VMRWheels]

Check balancing, wheel torque specs, bent suspension arms.

-Charles@VMRWheels
www.vmrwheels.com

[Rkorrie2]

So I got them balanced by a different shop using the hunter roadforce and it still shakes.I recently put stock wheels on for the winter and no shakeing. So I dont think it would be a control arm.I checked the slip the rings came with and it said 5zigen Gravi2 wheels the same I have.So its obviously the wheels right?What else could have my car shaking like this? Please help

[Doc@tirerack]

Did the shop that did the M&B check the wheels to make sure they spin "true" ? Either a wheel is out of round, or you have the wrong rings installed and they are nut fitting tight enough on the hub.

[Rkorrie2]

When you say "true" what does that mean? When putting the rings on should you put them on the hub and put the wheel over or put them in the wheel then put the wheel on?
I really hope all the wheels are perfectly round bc they are brand new.

[old guy]

If the Roadforce balance was performed properly it should have highlighted any problems with the wheels (out of round, side wobble , etc). The problem may be occurring when you mount the wheels onto the car. first insert the centering rings into the wheels. Make sure all the mounting surfaces are clean and flat. Make sure the lug bolts are tightened evenly. I typically torque the bolts in a star pattern to 30, then 60, then 90lbs to make sure everything is even. After you mount the wheels onto the car check to see if there is any out of round or lateral movement (that the wheels are "true"). I use a run out indicator but you can do a quick check with any kind of stand. A block of wood works fine. Lay a pointer across the block of wood (large nail, metal rod, ball point pen, etc). Set the pointer at a 45 degree angle to the outer rim of the wheel to where it is just shy of touching the rim. Turn the wheel slowly and observe for any run out or lateral movement. If the wheel is true and mounted flat you shouldn't see any more than .005" or so of movement. More than that indicates a problem. If you find excessive movement, mark the wheel at the high point and note the amount. Take off the wheel and remount it as close to 180 degrees as possible and repeat the procedure. It the run out is at the same point on the wheel the wheel is most likely the problem. If the high point moves to a different location the problem is in how the wheel is mounting to the hub. That indicates that the centering ring may not be doing its job .

Good luck!

Edit: If the wheel checks out to be "true" move your pointer to the center of the tire and check the tire for any run out. Again, if the balance was performed correctly the technician should have noted the tire run out. That is the first thing you check with the Roadforce Balancer. The wheel is checked for run out and the tire is also checked. Then the high point of the tire is matched with the low point of the wheel. If there was still a problem the technician should have alerted you to the problem. That is why I am leaning toward the problem being with how the wheels are mating up with the hub.

Again, Good luck!

[Rkorrie2]

thank you very much.You guys are a big help.I'll check that out

[Rkorrie2]

would the studds be a problem? Being that they are factory and the rear wheels are 9.5 in the back.Maybe the studds aren't long enough?