This process can also be done to achieve FWD, you would just mod the rear axles and not the fronts.
This is in response to this THREAD, it comes up about once a month so it gets its own thread now. This is the last time I should need to post about it. (key words for future searches: RWD conversion weld welded differential torsen rear wheel drive)
#1 You need to remove your center diff. If you go to the STaSIS website ( www.stasisengineering.com ) and go to the diff section on parts for sale, there are instructions for their awesome 4:1 diff. Follow them.
#2 Clean the diff very well with degrease, then hit with alcohol or brake cleaner and let dry. If possible pre heat the diff in a oven or on a hot plate. This will prevent warpage, although not very likely it is possble.
#3 Weld the central gears to the side of the case, you cannot mess this up. There is really only one way that makes sense to do it. Also weld the gears together on the ends. Make it so that those gears in the middle can no longer turn. Try to do even amounts of welding on all sides to maintain balance. YOU DO NOT NEED TO GO CRAZY WITH THE WELDS!
Reference pic #1, weld high lighted areas:
#4 Reinstall diff using the STaSIS instructions once again. Fill trans.
#5 Remove your front axles, first unbolt them at the transmission output. You will need a triple square in order to do this. Stick a screw driver in the vents of each rotor and bind against the caliper to keep them from spinning as you break them free. Once those are totally disconnected drop the car back to the ground and break the through hub to axle bolt loose. Jack car back up and compress suspension, slide entire axle assemblies out.
#6 you need to disassemble the outer CV, all you will still be using is the bell that normally would house the balls, cage and star. It's the part that has the splines to the outer hub and ABS tone ring (area around the axle end with little notches) on it. You need this there to hold the hub together, do not ever attempt to drive or even put the car on the ground without it in place, you will break stuff and probably get hurt. It also is what the ABS uses for wheel speed. ABS is good, you need it.
Reference pic #2, you only keep high lighted area:
#7 Once you have that part free and all cleaned up just reinstall it through the hub and bolt in place. You don't need the boot or anything. Also clean all the grease off the trans outputs.
Now to answer some specific questions I know will arise or already have...
The rear axles are weak, if you try and drag race or launch like this on sticky tires you will break rear axles. If you haven't realized that I have tried all of this and want to argue, I will not entertain you.
Yes the car will roast the tires off like crazy if you want, it will also drift like crazy. If you have a LSD hang the F on
I ran my car like this off and on many times, I also set a few people up with it, everyone had fun.
No I didn't try FWD, that would be really lame.
Braking feels exactly the same as normal.
No I will not build you a "kit" for this. Not only am I not an advertiser but the cost of a diff is insane, good luck finding extras or bad ones. Just do it yourself if you really want. If you needed to pay someone to weld it, figure 50 bucks and thats getting raped.
Time to do all of this for an average skill level shad tree mechanic who has a welder should be no more that 2-3 hours.
Yes Quattro is awesome, yes I agree it is better than RWD, so dont preach to me.
Happy drifting and stuff, dont hit a tree!
-Jared
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