Timing Chain Tensioner Gasket DIY

[gotboost]

Is there a DIY on changing this? Or can anyone post one up? Iam gonna be changing my VC gasket, and wanna do this to because i think is leaking at the back of the engine.

Thanks

[dirtybrd]

First try snugging the bolts a bit. IIRC the gasket is metal and should stop leaking if tight. Clean the area afterward and check after a few days.

[old guy]

Is there a DIY on changing this? Or can anyone post one up? Iam gonna be changing my VC gasket, and wanna do this to because i think is leaking at the back of the engine.

Thanks

Here is a DIY for changing the cam adjuster on a Passat. It should serve to give you an idea as to what you will encounter. Obviously you don't have to remove the cams but you will at least see what is back there. Clicky click

[Elliott]

First try snugging the bolts a bit. IIRC the gasket is metal and should stop leaking if tight. Clean the area afterward and check after a few days.

X2. I didn't even replace mine while doing the timing belt. It seemed unneccessary.

[gotboost]

First try snugging the bolts a bit. IIRC the gasket is metal and should stop leaking if tight. Clean the area afterward and check after a few days.

I will give that a shot. I need to take off my VC to do that right? And the Timing Chain Tensioner Gasket is the one located at the back of the engine right. All I know is that the stealership said it was leaking and wanted like 600 to change it!

[dirtybrd]

If you clean the area first, you can remove the bolts and lift the tens. a bit and sneak the gasket out and back in.

[gotboost]

and is this the accual gasket?

http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/p...oducts_id=1310

[dirtybrd]

Yep

[gotboost]

Thanks, just ordered both VC and tensioner gaskets... Anything alse I need to do this?

[Audi Skate Snow]

just double check the timing marks when you pull the chain off.

[dirtybrd]

It's not necessary to remove the tens.

[Audi Skate Snow]

It's not necessary to remove the tens.

true...just lift it a bit and slide under..

[dirtybrd]

Mmmmmmmmmmmm, the ole lift and slide

[Audi Skate Snow]

ahahahah... gotta love being on flag hours :)

[dirtybrd]

When it's good it's good, but right now it SUCKS!

[Audi Skate Snow]

When it's good it's good, but right now it SUCKS!

yea.... some dealers are dying right now... some are on fire.

THank god the one im going to in October is doing well :)

[dirtybrd]

Cool, best of luck! I'm trying to get out of the up and down paychecks. I need to know if
I'm at work I'm getting paid.

[gotboost]

I just went and tightened the 2 torx bits at the back and saw the black gasket.... Also whats that blue gasket thats in the pic on mjm's website?

[dirtybrd]

It for sealing a spot in the head that is there from machining the head for the cams.

[gotboost]

It for sealing a spot in the head that is there from machining the head for the cams.

Do I need to change that to, or just the black one?

[dirtybrd]

Like said, clean it and see.

[absolutegtr]

gotboost, do you have a pic of the bolts that you tightened? (The ones that dirtybrd was referring to)

[dirtybrd]

They're at the back of the VC, black and torx.

[gotboost]

They're at the back of the VC, black and torx.

Yep Those

[risc427]

I'm about to do this myself. If you could post (or PM me) what you did to replace it. I'd be interested to hear how it goes.

I didn't do this on my B5 when I replaced the VC gasket and ended up having to get the VC gasket again when this was replaced.

[gotboost]

Yeah i will prob be doing it next friday

[Nikon44]

I have this same issue, mine is leaking onto the cat local dealer wanted 700+ to replace a 5 dollar part /cry. I have the gasket "pack" that the dealership sells. I will be doing this friday as well considering my entire front end is apart for a shreaded water pump (fun stuff :( ).

Sean

[dougyfresh]

It's not necessary to remove the tens.

correct, but all the bolts have to come out (the two in the back). may need to remove/loosen the others for the tensioner. That requires removal of the valve cover.

Definitely start by snugging the bolts down, clean it up and check in a few days.

[LampyB]

as usual Old Guy comes out of nowhere with the perfect link. excellent! btw how is your audi, being in the hands of your son and all? and the S2000?

[Nikon44]

We just pulled my valve cover off to look at what this is going to take. Now when looking at the new gasket, it has a half moon piece attached. That gasket covers where my leak is at unless there is another gasket somewhere. Any one able to confirm?

Sean

[Nikon44]

Nevermind I found what I need to replace.

[gotboost]

What kind of RTV Silicone do you guys use to seal the VC gasket

[dougyfresh]

Audi/VW sealant on the four little corners of the front and rear-most cam bearing caps.

[gotboost]

well iam changing my vc gasket right now, but couldnt get to the cam chain tesoner gasket, couldnt slide it out, and couldnt get to that 1/2 moon shaped gasked..... but they dont look like they are leaking, just the vc gasket looks like it was leaking.... also painting my vc black

[gotboost]

Here are some pics in proress, how does the nderside of the vc look.... thats when it just came off

[Puddin Tane]

(I bet this was getboost's problem)
The engine MUST be in #1 top dead center (TDC) position, per OG's PassatWorld procedure, when the timing chain tensioner release tool is used. The reason for this is not obvious (to me) and no one explains it anywhere, so here it is:
The intake camshaft must be in a neutral position when the tensioner release tool is used or the timing chain can't go slack, ever, and #1 TDC is the only neutral position you have timing marks for. If the engine is in a random position instead, intake valve return springs will push hard on off-center cam lobes of the intake camshaft, exerting a large rotation force on the shaft that the chain now has to restrain. You want all the cams on this shaft to be "unloaded," and #1 TDC is where that happens. Similar rotation force happens on the exhaust camshaft, but that shaft is always restrained by another means-- the timing belt. Only rotation force on the intake shaft "matters," by setting up high tension throughout the chain independent of the action of the tensioner, i.e. even when the tensioner release tool is fully engaged. That tool will then not slacken the chain AT ALL so you won't be able to get under the tensioner to replace the seals.
Don't ask how I discovered this