I'm going to the dealer to get parts for my TestPipe install.

[Zorfunk]

I only have the TP what else do I need?

[widgget]

I only have the TP what else do I need?

the gaskets that go between the turbo and the cat, and between the cat and the downpipe. you will need the bolts, washers, and nuts to connect it all up.
it's just replacing one pipe with another, the only part that makes it hard is the location of the bolts.

oh yeah...... depending on your tune, you might want to get a spacer for your 02 sensor so you don't throw any codes.

[pondside36]

A new gasket from the turbo to cat and gasket from cat to Downpipe. Two gaskets total.

[Papachristou]

if your TP didnt come with new bolts go ahead and get them, you will certainly need the cat to turbo nuts and TP to DP nuts/bolts


and dont forget a six pack of belgian bud lights, and some band aids

[SlappyB6]

and dont forget a six pack of belgian bud lights, and some band aids

Haha, classic!

And some Rust Buster/PB Blaster/WD40 (or all of the above).

[widgget]

Haha, classic!

And some Rust Buster/PB Blaster/WD40 (or all of the above).

shit yeah, i forgot the PB BLASTER! i pulled it out of my trunk this morning to lube up the hood catch on my bosses GMC 1500.

Although i have to admit that i gave up on the CAT to downpipe after about 24 hours of hardcore soaking and since i was replacing the entire setup anyway i just left the cat and test pipe connected and hacksawed the testpipe from below and pulled the unit out as one chunk , and to this day the cat and half of the downpipe are still connected and prob will be when i drag it to the scrap dealer.

[johnouellette]

that's more or less what I had to do too. Except I took it out in one piece, and used a torch to cut the bolts off the cat when it was out.

[B6Lovin]

shit yeah, i forgot the PB BLASTER! i pulled it out of my trunk this morning to lube up the hood catch on my bosses GMC 1500.

Although i have to admit that i gave up on the CAT to downpipe after about 24 hours of hardcore soaking and since i was replacing the entire setup anyway i just left the cat and test pipe connected and hacksawed the testpipe from below and pulled the unit out as one chunk , and to this day the cat and half of the downpipe are still connected and prob will be when i drag it to the scrap dealer.

not to vulture - but PM me if you wanna sell me your cat.

and you might need an impact gun to get a few of those bolts off (cat to downpipe) if you don't have a torch lol

[absolutegtr]

I run with no gaskets. No leaks what so ever, Just make sure the two surfaces are flat and sand them down a bit too, too remove any rust/grime

[aaaudiprotein]

I thought dealer will never do anything like deleting your cats???

[AudiA4Turbo22]

^^exactly what i was thinking, i was supprised no one cought it.

[A4natomical]

^^^they are only supplying gaskets and bolts/nuts. not installing.

[Zorfunk]

Wow, maybe I'll wait until I do a K04. Would it be a lot easier then?

[phantom b6]

It's just a pain to reach all the bolts... My bolts at the exhaust end of the downpipe were so rusted that nothing was getting them off.. not an impact wrench or all the liquid wrench in the world.

The piece the downpipe is connected to is sleeved to the rest of the exhaust in the middle of the car. What we basically did was unbolt it from the sleeve and then wiggle the cat from the top until we could sawsall the cat in 2 at the thin part near the rear bolts. It was a royal pain in the ass.

[pondside36]

Wow, maybe I'll wait until I do a K04. Would it be a lot easier then?

Not really since the turbo bolts aren't the issue. It is the original Cat to downpipe bolts that will be rusted and hard to get at. Open your hood and take a look at the back of your cat and you'll get the picture. You need to take the front tire off, remove the heat shield, and have some long extensions to get at the bolts (three in total). You will also need, or should I say it will help, to have the O2 sensor wrench attachment ( a special crows foot). I have been putting off installing mine but my bolts aren't rusty since I had an AWE Cat back installed a few months ago. Good luck.

[pondside36]

I run with no gaskets. No leaks what so ever, Just make sure the two surfaces are flat and sand them down a bit too, too remove any rust/grime

ummm this isn't a good idea, even though everything is great and you don't have a leak now. If you develope a leak you could potentialy damage the flanges of the DP, testpipe, and turbo, depending on where the leak forms. Where if a gasket fails, it forms a void for the gasses to escape without damaging the flanges... just from my experience with Diesel engines. If a gasket is required it should be used.

[absolutegtr]

ummm this isn't a good idea, even though everything is great and you don't have a leak now. If you develope a leak you could potentialy damage the flanges of the DP, testpipe, and turbo, depending on where the leak forms. Where if a gasket fails, it forms a void for the gasses to escape without damaging the flanges... just from my experience with Diesel engines. If a gasket is required it should be used.

There are many people on this forum that even run with no gaskets PRE-turbo. I just dont use gaskets POST-turbo.

I have been running like this for so long, and no problems....Our 1.8t dont put out that much exhaust gas anyways, lol

[Zorfunk]

So it would be easier to get a full exhaust and do it all at the same time.

[pondside36]

There are many people on this forum that even run with no gaskets PRE-turbo. I just dont use gaskets POST-turbo.

I have been running like this for so long, and no problems....Our 1.8t dont put out that much exhaust gas anyways, lol

It is all good, I know you are an automotive tech and have cleaned everything up nicely before reinstallation. It just isn't something I would recommend to someone doing things for the first time with no experience.

Also being a mechanic myself I perfer to use the recommended gaskets/orings/seals where required. There are many ways to skin a cat with that being said, in regards to gaskets/o-rings (material for instance) or even going metal to metal if allowable.

[pondside36]

So it would be easier to get a full exhaust and do it all at the same time.

If you go full exhaust you can avoid breaking the troublsom flange, as people have stated above by just removing the cat attached to the down pipe. It will be more work but you'll have a full turbo back system.... a lot more money at around 1k for a pre-made cat back exhaust.

[HTA A4]

Will REVO software throw a code with a TP?

[pondside36]

^^ I believe they have a cat delete feature that they can install.

[dougyfresh]

Your best bet is to follow Martini's instructions from his APR 3+ install. I did that when I installed my cat-back with the OEM cat. I wound up disconnecting the cat from the turbo and dropping the entire exhaust down low enough to get an angle grinder in and cut off the cat to downpipe bolts.

Get yourself nice 8mm bolts with copper lock nuts (same stuff that your exhaust manifold is bolted to the head with) for the TP to downpipe flange. With those, it won't come loose on you.

http://a4mods.com/index.php?page=web...ages/apr3.html