DIY: Ignition Switch Replacement

[mdzaudi]

This'll probably get moved to the DIY but i thought i'd post it here so people know it exists if anyone needs to do it.


NOTE: The ignition switch going bad can affect a number of things in your car. In my particular instance, my car was having difficulty starting. It would rev up to about 2000 rpm for about a second before it would die off. It would then take sometimes as many as a half dozen attempts to finally start the vehicle.

Tools Needed:
T8 Torx (I was able to make a T10 work)
8mm socket
4mm allen
Small flathead screwdriver
12 point (triple squared) bit or even an equivalent Torx
Patience

Process:

**disconnect the battery**

Remove the side fuse panel to access one of the 8mm screws for the knee bolster.

Remove all three 8mm screws and remove the knee bolster. You will have to remove the left side fuse panel to get to one of them. (I didn’t actually remove the knee bolster, hence no pics, during my replacement and it was somewhat a nightmare, so I would definitely recommend it.)

Unscrew the two T8 screws on the lower steering column shroud. (I only had a T10 but it somehow worked)

You will also need to remove a 4mm allen from just above the steering wheel adjust lever. You will have to pull the lever down to reveal the screw.

Remove the lower shroud (this will take some maneuvering to clear the steering wheel adjust lever).

Flip the upper portion of the shroud into the instrument panel to get it out of the way.

Remove the two T30 Torx bolts from the back side of the steering wheel and the airbag should fall out.

Unplug the connector from the steering wheel to the airbag

Unplug the connectors from the steering column to the steering wheel.

Next, remove the steering wheel by removing the center portion with a 12point (triplesquared) bit. I didn’t have one and it’s almost impossible to find these bits at hardware stores or car part stores. So you could order one off the internet but I was able to use the equivalent Torx bit size and I’ve been told that an alan wrench might work too.

Before removing the wheel, mark the interior and exterior splines with a sharpie or something so that you can line it back up upon reinstall and then pull the wheel off. If you have trouble getting your splines lined back up, remember that if you put the key in, you can rotate the steering wheel again.

Next, you will look on the bottom of the steering column assembly directly in front of the ignition assembly for a silver 4mm allen screw. Remove it.

Now on the top left of the steering column you must unplug this connector (the latch to push in is on the opposite side from you).

Also, remove the black plug on the left end of the ignition (it will have a purple piece on its left side.

Next there will be a small flathead screw on the bottom portion of the ignition tumbler. The head of this screw is covered with red wax or plastic so you have to scrape that off first. Then back out the screw but DO NOT remove it.

Now, to get to the next screw (the reason you removed the steering wheel) you have to pull back on the front portion of the steering column but do not remove it. Pulling it back should reveal the second plastic covered screw, so repeat what you did with the first one.

Now the ignition switch should pop out because its spring loaded. Once you have it out, look at the yellow pieces on your old and new switches and make sure they are lined up the same to each other with respect to how they are installed into the tumbler. If they are not, use a flathead screwdriver to rotate the new one to the correct position.
.
Finally just reinstall everything in the reverse way as explained above. You might throw errors for a day or two. My ESP light stayed on for a day or two, the auto-windows didn't work for a day, and my key remote didn't work for a day.

[derleicaman]

Excellent job on the DIY write-up. I was working on one as well, but you beat me to it! One thing you missed was a note to disconnect the battery any time you remove or re-install the airbag as you run the risk of setting it off if you don't!

My car started having this problem with immediately dying when trying to start for almost a year. It would come and go, but a few weeks ago it got really bad with up to 12 attempts to get the engine to stay lit. I first thought it was a battery dying, replaced that but the problem persisted. I also suspected the immobilizer, as immediately dying after a starting attempt is how the immo works. But a few weeks ago, a number of AZers were reporting this problem with their '03 A4s and that an ignition switch replacement did the trick.I suspect this may be a widespread problem in '03s and I'd bet there may be a recall sometime in the future. I did mine a week ago and no starting problems since. Took me about 40 mins. start to finish.

Again, great job on the DIY. I nominate it for inclusion in the DIY section.

[derleicaman]

Oops, my bad, you did say to disconnect the battery in the begining of the DIY! Back to remedial reading class!

[pandaudi]

Is this also this related to key immobilizer when you turn on the car?

[mdzaudi]

Sorry if i got to it first derle, hope you didn't put too much time into it already. I did find an old DIY in these forums for this, but it was short winded and lacked pictures. I was just pissed at my intermitten starting problem so i went after this right away, took some snaps, and wrote this up.

Not much more embarrassing than getting into a luxury car that looks nice, and stalling out four times in front of a bunch of people.

[derleicaman]

Sorry if i got to it first derle, hope you didn't put too much time into it already. I did find an old DIY in these forums for this, but it was short winded and lacked pictures. I was just pissed at my intermitten starting problem so i went after this right away, took some snaps, and wrote this up.

Not much more embarrassing than getting into a luxury car that looks nice, and stalling out four times in front of a bunch of people.

Hey no problem. You took more pics than I did!

I know what you mean about embarrassing. Same thing happened to me with 12 mis-starts before the engine lit.

[dougyfresh]

What is the p/n of the ignition switch? 4b0 905 849?

[GarbatyA4]

^^^ yah? is it the same for all B6's?

I've had the problem for one morning where It would start for 2 seconds then die. Would not stay running.


Same related issue?

[dougyfresh]

I thought it was the same for all B5s and B6s.

[mdzaudi]

Garbaty,
You may have the same problem. I think Derle explained my particular problem best in a previous thread i posted when he said.

Does the car start and then immediately die? Approx. 1-2 seconds after you try to start? Then it takes multiple tries before the engine finally stays lit?

If so, this is what I was experiencing. Sometimes would take up to 12 times before car stayed running after dying after a second or two. There is a thread on this "B6 Intermittent Starting Problem". I found the solution is the ignition switch, part number
4B0 905 849. I got mine from worldimpex.com for $27 plus shipping. This solved my problem. It seems this is a problem with '03 A4s. I am working on a DIY, as it is a PITA. The steering wheel, airbag, upper and lower shrouds on the steering column, lower console cover all have to be removed to get to this switch. Only took about 40 minutes to do, though.

As for the price, i didn't order mine which probably would've saved me money. I got it quoted at checker for them to order it and it was like $67. The stealership charges $77 before tax.

[dougyfresh]

4B0 905 849 is $14 from autohausaz.com

[GarbatyA4]

4B0 905 849 is $14 from autohausaz.com

Damn nice find.

I think this is also causing my alarm to go off all the time when I unlock the door manually. I have to put the key in the ignition and turn to ignition.

if I don't, the alarm goes off like 5-10 seconds after door is opened.

[dougyfresh]

Interesting; There are two styles of switches.
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Audi/...ctrical/206/2/

Split in the 1997 model year. My friend's 1998 A4 has the 'early style' switch so clearly Audi was still using up their 'early style' switch in 1998. By the time the B6 came (2001 in Europe) I'd be willing to bet that is the 'later style' switch.

[GarbatyA4]

my local dealer said $101 retail before taxes
wholesale $77 before tax

shitty!

[gotboost]

Awesome writeup, I will be doing mine next week.

[mdzaudi]

Glad i could provide some help.

[derleicaman]

My own update:
Ignition switch failed again almost 1 year after I replaced it the first time. This time, the symptom was the engine would crank, but would not fire. I could hear the fuel pump running so I knew that wasn't the problem. Did a vagcom, but no codes thrown. Replaced the switch and all is well again. My shop suggested that a heavy key ring may be the culprit. I only have 6 keys on my ring besides the Audi key and a small Swiss Army knife. May try a quick disconnect to seperate the car key from the rest when I drive.

[subversion]

Can anyone confirm if the $18 ignition switch from autohaus will work on the b6s? My immobilizer is stalling my car more often now and I can only imagine that it's going to get worst.

[j753301]

has this ever caused any of you guys cars to not start no matter how many times you try?

[gotboost]

Can anyone confirm if the $18 ignition switch from autohaus will work on the b6s? My immobilizer is stalling my car more often now and I can only imagine that it's going to get worst.

thats the one i got

[subversion]

thats the one i got

Thanks a lot! I'm going to order it then.

[subversion]

Does anyone know approximately what size torx you need that's similar in size to the 12 point tripplesquared bit? I'm going to go out to buy a set of torx but I want to know if I should be buying the smaller sets (the ones that range from T-9 to T-40) or if it's going to be even larger. From the looks of it, it does appear to be larger that the normal torx bits but I want to make sure.

[secnd2no1]

NICE DIY

[subversion]

Thanks for the DIY OP, I finally got it done today.

I want to add some suggestions to those who'll be doing this in the future:

(1) Buy a semi-long T-8 driver, a T-10 did not work for me and I nearly stripped the screw trying to use it.
(2) A T-55 will work just fine in place of the 12 point/tripplesquared bit.

Apart from that it was a pretty easy job. Thanks and +rep to you.
/
[IGNORE]Does anyone know how long before the ABS brake & traction control lights go off/ all electronics (windows, remote, etc) start working again? I cleared the codes but they come back immediately saying no communication. I'm guessing it's because I had the battery disconnected for a while.[IGNORE] Reading fail, didn't realize the OP posted this at the end of the first post.

[subversion]

EDIT: Issue resolved: turns out the steering wheel control module connector wasn't pushed in all the way. Took everything apart this morning and put it back together and everything except my key fob works perfectly. I figure the key fob will start working shortly. The ABS light didn't come on when I reconnected the battery and the ESP light literally disappeared in seconds. Good stuff and lesson learned.

[kelohin]

Thanks for the DIY. I'm actually in the process of trying to complete this. I'm running into an issue.
Once you get to the last step when you are to replace the switch. How do you remove the switch from the purple connecter? It seems to be wedged up against the dash? There isn't much wiggle room to work with.

[boostedAvant]

Nice job Matt!

[mpunklil]

Does anybody have the electrical schematic or pinout for this switch?

[treedodger]

wiring diagram:

http://www.bentleypublishers.com/ima...i.b6.wd.02.pdf

[The_Roof]

Nice write up. Help a great deal. Now I can hear my fuel pump prime the lines. But I still have a issue with it not firing right away. I checked the vag and it says cylinder 3 is missing and I may need a maf sensor.

Good Job!

[beerto]

will this fix the problem of not being able to turn my key to the on/start position?

[billyhoyle]

has this ever caused any of you guys cars to not start no matter how many times you try?

I fixed my buddy's car yesterday that wouldn't start no matter how many times we tried. New ignition switch, and it's now good to go.

One problem - his steering wheel is squeaking like mad. It seems like the shroud behind the steering wheel is now rubbing against it...any suggestions?

[lasher45]

Bump, have the same problem as billyhoyle now that I put the steering wheel back on. I used the Bently manual to find the torque specs and it still squeeks agains the plastic shroud and is harder to turn then it was before I removed it. Anyone know how to fix this?

[betyouaint]

I need to check the wiring for my immobilizer RFID coil that I believe is mounted on the side of the ignition barrel. Does anyone know if the procedure to access the barrel is the same as shown here on the B6?

[diagnosticator]

I need to check the wiring for my immobilizer RFID coil that I believe is mounted on the side of the ignition barrel. Does anyone know if the procedure to access the barrel is the same as shown here on the B6?

The wiring from the reader coil is connected to the instrument cluster at T32/30 Black, and T32/31 Green, in the Blue harness connector.

[MacFady]

Revived from the dead. Can anyone point me to a source for a T8 THAT WORKS in this application. I have T1-T80 bits at home of all different lengths and sizes but none that have a base thin enough to fit in the hole, and the ones that do fit are too short to reach the screw. Other sets I've sourced that fit both criteria only come in sizes T10 (didn't work) and above. I was happy to find a use for the 12mm triple square I had, but then was surprised I had nothing that could reach the 2 T8's.

I know "Google" is my friend but specs are lacking and it's difficult to tell from images whether or not the base is < 1/4" and able to fit inside the channel.

[rocket1420]

I had to modify the handle on my Wiha one to get it far enough into the hole.

[MacFady]

Well after searching high and low locally to no avail I decided to make a tool, unfortunately when I removed it the bit did not come with it and is now stuck in the hole...

[seanf86]

Well after searching high and low locally to no avail I decided to make a tool, unfortunately when I removed it the bit did not come with it and is now stuck in the hole...

I bought a Mastercraft T8 screwdriver from Canadian tire for mine, well not for the switch but to install my Podi column mount. It works perfect.

[MacFady]

Thanks shawnf86! They didn't have one when I was there originally but when I went back a week later there was one left, ideal for this application I might add.

Didn't fix my issue. No crank/no fuel pump prime out of the blue one morning.

I too, as mentioned above, had a very hard time turning the wheel and a loud squeak the first time I reinstalled the steering wheel. When I put it back together the second time I pushed the "collar" with the blinkers/cruise all the way back on the column and held pressure on it while I reinstalled the 4mm allen set screw. Same with the plastic shroud although it basically only goes on one way, but again made sure the other 4mm allen was lined up and easy to install. No more squeak the second time.