exhaust components (pics)

[audirs]

got the last pieces of the puzzle for my stage 3 setup this weekend. downpipes came in friday, saturday morning i picked up the exhaust.

downpipes are ASP 3" and mufflers are vibrant performance 3" inlet, dual 3" outlet. i willl be getting custom catback piping done from a local shop. will most likely get them to build me an X pipe, and i will be running non-res

this is the biggest that photobucket would let me host the pics for some reason.

[Stampy]

I like the mufflers. That shit is hot

[audirs]

thx! i really like how they turned out too. the tips are angled cut, hopefully i dont screw up the trim covering the exhaust when we try to get these things to fit. typically id like them to sit high up as possible. not sure if i can make that happen though

[FrankA6]

looks like its going to sound pretty mean.

[wofman]

Why the ASP (not that I'm disagreeing -- curious)? Like them better than AWE's free-flow cats? And same question re 3" vs 2.5". For some reason I thought C5 2.7s like the 2.5 diameter....

wofman

[audirs]

went asp because i couldnt really find anyone else that built a 3" downpipe for the 2.7. i didnt want to get that part custom done since it would be nearly impossible for my situation. i figured id get downpipes that bolt right onto my motor so i can drop the engine back in and drive to a shop to have the rest custom done. bigger the better imo for turbo cars. read alot of shit on the b5 s4 forum, but i think at the end of the day, the bigger less restrictive exhaust will yield the most gains.

[wofman]

I think AWE found 2.5" as optimal, but I'm no engineer. Curious, though.
Daft??

wofman

[audirs]

thought id just update my thread with the exhaust completed. when the exhaust was off to do tranny work i snapped some pics. you can see some exhaust leaks, those have been fixed. the only problem with the 3" back was space. they had to weld the 2 pipes together inorder to get them to fit properly, which causes them to rattled against each other at ideal sometimes (not very often). i will try to get a cross brace welded on eventually to help aid that so it doesnt flex/move. some shitty celly pics:

[wofman]

how's your tranny!

[2.7too-nasty]

did u get any cels wit this setup

[THM]

wow looks like real nice setup
but aren't tips to short ?

[audirs]

how's your tranny!

the new tranny was awesome for the day i got to drive it. the next day i was going for lunch and it doesnt catch gears at all. buddy thinks it may be the pressure plate


no cel, i still have my cats and o2s hooked up and everything. it all sits nice, fits pretty perfect. i will get the exhaust modded a bit to sit higher eventually, maybe next summer, as it sits a little low for my liking in the valance. they would have to cut the exhaust, and i dont want to do that right now

[stef2.7t]

Tell Jerry to fix that tranny good! lol You gotta come out across the bridge to give me a rip in the stage 3.

[Kievskiy]

try to bleed the clutch, if it has even little air its just doesn't work at all.....i re-bleede mine and its like a new tranny ;)

[Stone825]

Do you need a resonator / x-pipe to pass inspections? Anyways nice setup. I'm looking to do something similar. Stock downpipes to 2.5" catback with resonator cut out and borla mufflers to borla tips.

[2.7too-nasty]

i dont see any cats

[s6sputnik]

Was that SNOW...brrrr

Nice looking stuff! congrats!

[Daft]

i dont see any cats

Yeah, I see them. It looks like they cut the pre-cats out of the OEM downpipes and welded them into the post-DP section. You can see them in the last picture with the bungs and secondary O2 sensors in place.

My thought at this point is to try and get my paws on an RSC style muffler setup for my car. Corsa and APR make RSC mufflers but, I have yet to see any made for any V6 cars. Only 4cyl and 8cyl setups are out there so far.


I would like to weigh in on the whole 3" -vs- 2.5" concept.....

The general rule for exhaust design is to maintain exhaust gas velocity throughout the entire length on the piping to allow maximum scavenging for the combustion chamber. This helps the entire combustion process and creates a very clean burn.

If you choose to buy a 3" DP setup, you should also use a 3" exhaust system too. The reason here is that as the exhaust gasses cool they will also expand in volume and slow down. You will want your setup to maintain size throughout or increase in size but, never reduce in size as this will create restriction.

BTW, here's an interesting calculator for determining exhuast gas velocity through a pipe:

Click me!

[2.7tDallas/JonD]

Why the ASP (not that I'm disagreeing -- curious)? Like them better than AWE's free-flow cats? And same question re 3" vs 2.5". For some reason I thought C5 2.7s like the 2.5 diameter....

wofman

I do not think AWE is an expert in much of anything. Just my personal opinion

[wofman]

looks like ASP dp's are 3" and AWE's are 2.5" -- apparently the relevant difference

[check AW forum (A6) and you'll see considerable doubt about ASP's eng and integrity -- have no complaints about AWE and I know my mechanic swears by their dp's and eng support]

[Daft]

I do not think AWE is an expert in much of anything. Just my personal opinion

Years ago, I didn't have a great opinion of AWE but, over the last year or so, I have seen a lot of intelligently designed parts come out of their shop. Their exhaust components are really a work of art.

Here's the reason why you'll see a 3" from ASP and a 2.5" from AWE.

AWE sells a K04 based Stage 3 kit. You don't need a 3" DP for K04s. The flow rates are not enough to demand a 3".

ASP sells their GT28 kit for the 2.7T. Due to the increased flow rates over a converntional K04 setup, you really can use a 3" DP. It's easier for them to sell a 3" to everyone and then they don't need another DP set if they intend to go GT28 later on.

[cbcustoms]

Did you get the exhaust done in Steel or Alum?

[wofman]

i will get the exhaust modded a bit to sit higher eventually, maybe next summer, as it sits a little low

Ahem. We'll be the judge of that, sir.
Post it!

[audirs]

Tell Jerry to fix that tranny good! lol You gotta come out across the bridge to give me a rip in the stage 3.

for sure man. lol yea hes gonna be working away on that for me.

exhaust is done in stainless steel from my understanding.

one of the main reasons for the ASP downpipes was they were on sale too. i picked up the 3" pipes for a few hundred cheaper then regular. think they were going for 1300 and some change on sale, where AWE's are almost 1700.

i dont have many pics since the weather has been terrible and cold. this is all i have for now. ill take some high res ones to get better opinions when i can

[wofman]

Ahem. We'll be the judge of that, sir.
Post it!

Agreed

[audirs]

Agreed

think they do need to be raised more?

[wofman]

yes -- not exactly shabby right now, but an inch up would probably be better (is it partly from using 3" pipes? or using round vs oval mufflers?). Here's where mine exit (modded 2000 valence):

[audirs]

yea i want mine as high as yours. the muffler shop refused to cut the valence. they said they arent a body shop, so they dont want to do it. they trimmed it a bit and did a terrible job too, so im glad they didnt hack away at it. i will make my cutouts pretty much identical to yours, but wider to fit 2 tips. i really like where yours are sitting now.

did you just use a dremel to cut yours out?

[wofman]

I "used" a guy who had done it before! He put in DPs and catback exhaust all at same time. I believe he used a saw, then sanded edges, repainted valence. (I'm pretty sure it was fit up twice, second time for exact cut-out.) Have to make sure pipes are located properly for symmetric cut-outs also.

[duh - I see mufflers are oval -- should be able to raise them (probably want to just b/c of dragging concern aside from looks, eh?)]

Black looks good on yours. Can't remember, are your blades black also?

[audirs]

thanks for the info. yep my blades are unpainted, the same colour as my rear valence since its unpainted too.

i will most likely make a template then trace it onto the valance so its symmetrical, then cut. hopefully i dont have to repaint it. if i do, id have to do my blades too

[dublord]

this car was a NIGHT MARE TO WORK ON BUT WELL WORTH IT IN THE END CHEERS HARP