Tear Down Has Began!

[A4 TSCHUSS]

Hello all, I started taking my car apart tonight and worked for around 4 hours and have a few pics to share.

I arrived at my friends shop where I would be doing the work and had to move some toys first to make room for my car.




Now here was my spot



And the car is in place, and yes those are center blocks on the driver side, I couldnt find the other jackstand so those will do.




Here she is before I started tearing stuff apart



And after a few hours here is what I have accomplished. I didnt have the fricken tool to take the head bolts out so I am gonna have to hopefully find one tomorrow and then finish up the teardown.









I finished up at 11:30 at night and was all alone since my friend had went home an hour before, then conveniently nobody answered their phone to pick me up and bring me home, sooooooooo I got to ride my buddies Trek bicycle a little over 2 miles to my house. That fricken sucked!

[Grenade]

lookin good.

[pizdetsauduxa]

haha u got to ride a "bike" bike how does that feel after ur r1? well i had to take a cab tonite back to my car tonite and that sucked also, cab didnt boost.
so why are u taking her apart again?

[HTA A4]

That sucks! I would've come picked you up (if I lived close to you) lol! Looks like you got it torn down quickly, but remind me again of what project you're doing now?

[ngng]

dude...i would not use those cement blocks. i've seen them just crumble...hate to that happen to you

[FourRings80]

Looking good man! Seems like you got a lot done in 4 hours. Looking foward to see the projet . And is that your new head in the back?

[A4 TSCHUSS]

I am putting in Pauter forged rods, Forged pistons, new rings, rod bearings, AEB big port head, Schrick Cams and then getting the proper tune for my GT3071r to start making mucho power so I can go spank some ass.

And the cement blocks wont break the way I have them. You have to put them with the holes facing up and down and they are very strong that way. We used them all the time to hold boats that weight up to 10,000lbs. when being stored on land and not on a trailer or rack.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

Looking good man! Seems like you got a lot done in 4 hours. Looking foward to see the projet . And is that your new head in the back?

what can I say, I have skills and yes that is the head back there with a black valve cover. Can't believe you noticed that haha

[HTA A4]

Videos after tune pleeeaaaseee!!

[absolutegtr]

looks good, looks good

What tune are you going to run? Revo GT30?

[A4 TSCHUSS]

Think im gonna try the Revo file then a custom tune

[dougyfresh]

good deal David! yes, those cement blocks are fine the way you have them oriented. Really don't need the car in the air until you disconnect the trans, but that's my opinion..

Going to pull the block out or do the rods with the block in the car?

Love seeing progress!

[A4 TSCHUSS]

Leaving block in the car. I also realized I dont have a cam chain tensioner tool. Is there a way to take the pressure off the tensioner without the special tool? I am gonna be swapping the stock cams out of the AEB head for Schrick cams but I dont have a tensioner tool. I didnt even look at it to see how you relieve the pressure but I hope I can do it without the VW/Audi tool, or can I get a generic one from like Napa Auto parts if I do need the special tool and cant relieve pressure another way?

[dougyfresh]

Do you want to borrow the tool? I have both the cam tensioner and head bolt tool but can't ship them to you until next Wed since I'm in CA right now. PM me or email dougyfresh at vt dot edu

You can get the cams out without the tool but it's a bitch. Definitly need it for instalation.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

shit! I had planned on doing this all like tomorrow and Sunday, just guess I was a little excited to start and didnt think about all the tools. I dont have alternate transportation right now unless I can end up borrowing my friends Hayabusa, so I need my car back ASAP! I need to figure another way to tension that thing. Where did you get the tool? Is it only an Audi/VW tool? Gotta be some kind of tensioner tool I can find, or I hope.

[HeymyAudi]

I cant wait to see what you do!! Thats going to be CRAZY!

[G Men 08]

damn dude your already putting dow 321 hp holy fvck!! after this youll be smoken z06's!! that would be a blast, id almost pay to go for a ride and see the look on the guys face when a "4 door grocery getter" beats a 70k 500 horsepower vette!!!


^^yeah on second thought i was thinking of a different car, i forgot the z06 was roughly 11 seconds in the quarter

[Don Supreme]

^ not happening.

[dougyfresh]

Since you are crunched for time, you can then make the tool for the tensioner. I think the thread on the bolt is either 6mm. Get a bolt about 2-3inches long. Then cut a plate of aluminum (or steel) to fit on top of the upper guide the chain runs along. The bolt goes down through the 'plate' down the front of the tensioner and threads into a threaded hole on the underside guide for the chain. As you tighten down the bolt it compresses the upper and lower guides together. It may take some tinkering to get the right bolt length.

The tool I have is an Audi/Vw tool.

You are not going to be able to take the head off without the 6point polydrive socket.


Damn time change. Im wide awake and it's 7

[dirtybrd]

Actually you can use an 8mm allen socket, that's what I used to remove my headbolts. The chain tensioner can be done without a tool. It'll be even easier with the head off. You just pick up the cams and tens. all in one assembly, same with install.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

I was searching around and saw a tensioner for sale on ebay or something and it was very simple just like you said (bolt with like a washer on it to fit over the edge of the tensioner. I was gonna make that after I could figure out the bolt to go in it.

So it is only like 2-3" long? Seems like it would need to be longer than that? And 6mm, ok I was gonna bring the other head with me to the hardware store and keep trying bolts and washers till I get something to work. I can get a piece of flat bar from one of my welding friends too if I need it instead of a washer.

And for the head bolts you don't think I could find something at Napa?

[A4 TSCHUSS]

Actually you can use an 8mm allen socket, that's what I used to remove my headbolts. The chain tensioner can be done without a tool. It'll be even easier with the head off. You just pick up the cams and tens. all in one assembly, same with install.

Thank you!

8mm allen about 4" long. I didnt even try to put an allen in it!

If you pull the cams out together with the tensioner then what the cams just come together a little to put slack in the chain?

Hell I don't even have the cams, the head and cams were shipped together and somehow the head came yesterday and the cams didnt come and the shitty USPS tracking number has no update past the original one saying they were accepted for shipping. They better come today!

[dirtybrd]

Yes. Unbolt the caps and tensioner, and just pry lightly and evenly on the cams and tens, it might take a little effort but they'll come out. They're esaier to put back in, just set the links and put the tens between the cams and install as a unit.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

gotcha, thanks. 16 links from notch to notch on the cam, actually 16 pins through the links.

[dirtybrd]

Do those cams allow VVT?

[A4 TSCHUSS]

I dont even know, I don't think so, can't you not use vvt with anything over like a 3651 cat cam which these are more aggresive than?

[dirtybrd]

VVT is usable one set above the 3651's but not the last ones. Don't try it until you know for sure=bent valves. 16 links mark to mark, like this
(-)--------------(-)
1---------------16

[dougyfresh]

I guess you could do what chris suggested on the cams. I'm still convinced installation will be difficult. Esp to line up the bearing cap bolts and VVT bolts. they are fine threads and can strip easily.

I 'think' it's 6mm for the tensioner tool bolt. Rethinking my suggestion, not sure if plate stock is strong enough. might bend

I would not use that 8mm Allen to torque down the new head and head bolts.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

VVT is usable one set above the 3651's but not the last ones. Don't try it until you know for sure=bent valves. 16 links mark to mark, like this
(-)--------------(-)
1---------------16

yeah, I am set on the chain links to set the cams. I was gonna use the cam chaini tensioner from the AEB head too.

[dirtybrd]

I did my cams like this both times. The first time I had some trouble getting the cams out, but it was gravy after doing it. David, does the AEB head have the stock cams in it still?

[A4 TSCHUSS]

Yes it is a complete head with cams, cam gear, black valve cover and 4 coil packs!

[A4 TSCHUSS]

Did you use the 8mm allen to tighten your head bolts as well? Or did you order the tool for that?

[dirtybrd]

Weel then you'll get to practice removing the cams on that head. I did buy a tool to tighten the head bolts, but being as they're hardened if you use a quaility allen socket you should be ok, Craftsmen at the mininum. If you don't want to use the allen, give me your address and I can overnight the socket to you on Monday, just pay shipping. Let me know and I'll ship it and you can just pay me back, just return it when your done.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

I will put an allen in it and see how I feel with the fitment on whether I will tighten the new bolts with it or not. And it will most likely be a Snap On or Mac. I have an arsenal of tools at my friends shop, just not that damn thing for the head bolts.

He has 3 big Mac tool boxes and one smaller Snap On. I will take pics today and put them up tonight

[dirtybrd]

You'll be ok then, generally head bolts are tighter when you have to loosen them. The poly drive is an allen bolt with grooves cut into the corners.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

O yeah, and I looked into the back of the turbo at the exhaust blades and they all look perfect from what I can see, so that must not be the cause of the late spool up. Running around on 17psi I hit it at like 4300rpm.

[dirtybrd]

Look into the exh. inlet, or better yet take off the housing, just to be sure, it's only six bolts. If it's damaged on the inner edge it'll be real hard to tell. I know when my wheel went bad on my first GT30 hybrid, I lost alot of spool and it had a .48 housing on it.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

well I am off to the shop to start workin some, see you guys tonight, wont have any internet.

[dirtybrd]

Let us know how it goes. I'd get the head in order first, then worry about the block.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

Well I had all kinds of kinks in my game! The car is not cooperating. There are the 2 oil pan bolts in the back up inside those holes between transmission and block. I don't see how anyone could get those out without having the flywheel off. Maybe mine is special or something but they were completely behind the flywheel to where I could only see the edge of the bolts.

Needless to say I took the engine out and then found more problems. Im gonna need motor mounts since one of mine is ripped completely in half (passenger side).

The bearing in the end of the crank was completely dominated (all the little needle bearings were laying inside the hole in the crank and the cage they should be in was kinda crumpled in there.

My clutch started making a funny noise so I looked at it since I had to take my flywheel off anyway to get to those 2 10mm bolts for the oil pan. Well my disk was getting ready to rip off on one side. The rivets were slid to the side pushing up into the disk and I could shake it back and forth with my hands. No idea how it was staying together.

I took the pistons out of the block and I took the cams out of the aeb head as a complete deal with the tensioner and all (piece of cake).

Gonna hone the block tomorrow and was gonna install the new cams but im kinda thinking about getting some better valve springs now since im already gonna be breaking my wallet even more.