Help car is not running smooth and is bucking badly!

**bobbyfali** · 08-21-2008 11:04 PM

My car (stg 3 AWE)was running HARD and perfectly up until this:

I shifted from the top of 3rd into 2nd and the car would start. I found out that the reluctor ring that reads the G28 speed sensor came off (a known problem with AWE LWFW) and AWE replaced it free of charge. Before I knew what the problem was I did a compression test fearing the worst and it came out fine across the board.

After I got the FW installed back in the car it fired up and I was off. I immediately noticed that the car pulled good like before but at about 6000rpm to 6600rpm it felt like it slowed down and then at 6600rpm it pulled hard again.

I thought maybe after I did the compression test that it was a leak (with the stuff I had to remove to do the test). I took the car to H2 Sports an Audi specialist place here in Ontario Canada. They did a pressure test to 21psi and said there was no leaks. They said that the car at idle misses a little and feel that is what is happening around that RPM (6000-6600). They also stated that it had misfires stored, which I told them was there (I have Vag-Com ROSS tech cable) already because when I start my car after it has been sitting for awhile it triggers that code They said to change the plugs (plugs ran awesome before this situation: Denso Irdium 1 heat range colder gapped to .28) that they might of got a "hair line" crack or something when the car revved so high with the 3rd to 2nd. Also they said that if its not that it might be my coil packs. They also swapped my MAF sensor ect but no difference.

I took the car home swapped the plugs with the old OEM plugs (that ran fine before I took them out) that came with the AWE Stage 3 kit. I even torqued it down to 22ft/tq as they told me to (I have NEVER torqued plugs before in all my years in the Supra/car world, but I was desperate and would try anything to get my old performance back before all this happened).

After the plug swap to my old known working plugs my car took 5 tries to start with the car barely idling!!! After awhile the car could barely drive when I gave it any sort of throttle and kept bucking and cutting. The only codes are multiple misfires and it has misfires for each cylinder.

I am about to go pick up a new set of plugs BKR7E11 (Cheap plugs for now, but many use them) to rule out plugs, but what about before I did the plugs with my other set. So even if I get the car running like before what the HELL is happening at 6000-6600rpm.

Now before I pull my hair out and go purchase all new coils in vain what are your thoughts.

I thank you guys in advance for you insight and thoughts.

Thanks

Bobby Ali

BA

**RolledMySTi** · 08-22-2008 09:56 AM

Could be your ICM's. Try to see if their is someone local you can swap with before you spend any money.

**bobbyfali** · 08-22-2008 08:38 PM

Pulled the MAF and the car was smooth again and could go into boost. I still have that power drop/hesitation/slow down at 6000rpm to about 6600rpm and then it pulls again above 6600rpm to red line.

Now I have my traction and ABS light on which I have never had before!

Is this related to a bad MAF (again how in the world does a MAF just die like that after I changed the plugs)?

I have a AWE stage 3 kit so what MAF sensor would I need?

I am also going to pick up some 710N's in hope that might be what is happening up top (ie letting out air pressure and then sealing after the pressure lowers that is why I think it pulls back @6600rpm) being right at 6000rpm the g/s falls then picks back up again 6600rpm.

Thanks

Bobby Ali

BA

**Rajan147** · 08-22-2008 11:23 PM

the esp light and abs light are related to the MAF, you got access to a vag-com?

How are your injectors oriented?
Are all your hoses attached, lower ic etc..?

those are places that i would start, wish i could be more help.

**bobbyfali** · 08-23-2008 07:17 PM

Originally Posted by Rajan147

the esp light and abs light are related to the MAF, you got access to a vag-com?

How are your injectors oriented?
Are all your hoses attached, lower ic etc..?

those are places that i would start, wish i could be more help.

Thanks for your response.

So when I disconnect the MAF and it runs good (well sort off, still have that 6000rpm-6600rpm power drop off problem) means I need a new MAF?

Yes I have a ROSS-TECH vag com.

I figure all my hoses are attached being when I disconnect my MAF my car pulls good until higher RPM (Does not pull as good or smooth with a working MAF) and I got a pressure test (from a audi tunning place H2 Sports) till 21psi with no leaks.

This car was put together (years ago mind you) by a authorized AWE dealer Pfaff Tunning (the owner owns Pfaff Audi as well) so what is the meaning of "How are your injectors oriented?"?

Thanks

Bobby Ali

BA

**bobbyfali** · 08-24-2008 08:53 PM

Multiple misfires, airflow meter signal low(because it is pluged out).

Then I cleared codes and plugged the MAF back in and all lights were off (CEL, ABS, TRAC). Again the car was bucking after I finally got it started (took about 5 tries) and then NO CEL even that the car was barley drivable! I drove the car for about 2KM and still no CEL with the car bucking etc. I looked up for codes and it showed multiple misfires ONLY!

I then un hooked the MAF and the car drove smooth and could actually boost etc. (again still having that 6000rpm-6600rpm power drop/hesitation/what ever the heck it is , but now it is starting even earlier like 5700 rpm).

No CEL after about 2km of driving, But when I checked codes it showed the same as when the MAF was plugged in but this time also airflow signal low because the MAF was disconnected.

Guy I got out of Supra’s because of this crap, but at least those cars were almost 20years old! ANY further help would be much appreciated!

Thanks

Bobby Ali

BA

**Rajan147** · 08-25-2008 04:54 AM

BA,

Is there any way you can swap it out with some one local to check? It would be a Hitatchi sensor that is a simple replacement for your current one, you dont need a housing, just the sensor.

Could be your coilpacks with the multiple misfire issues.

Did you find any leaks when you pressure tested?

Go to this site and look at the bottom of AWE Fueling, they have some FAQs and troubleshooting which may help.

http://www.awe-tuning.com/pages/info...dow.cfm?FAQ=36

**bobbyfali** · 09-01-2008 03:25 PM

Originally Posted by Rajan147

BA,

Is there any way you can swap it out with some one local to check? It would be a Hitatchi sensor that is a simple replacement for your current one, you dont need a housing, just the sensor.

Could be your coilpacks with the multiple misfire issues.

Did you find any leaks when you pressure tested?

Go to this site and look at the bottom of AWE Fueling, they have some FAQs and troubleshooting which may help.

http://www.awe-tuning.com/pages/info...dow.cfm?FAQ=36

Thanks for the hepl buddy. I am going to drop it off at Independant Tuning here in Toronto & see how knowledgable they are to fix this issue.

In the interm is there any further suggestions or things I should log to help the Audi guro's on this site.

If none of these work, I would be burning or calling someone to take this car by the end of the week!

J/K!

Thanks

Bobby Ali

BA