While I can't say wether it can or can not be done, I've always been under the impression that it could not be done. Again, I don't know for sure but I have always "heard" and "been told" that it couldn't be done. Just throwing out info and things to consider.
The AEB and ATW engine are based on the old 2.0L block with the water pump hanging off the side of the block. Also referred to as "External Water Pump". The only difference between the two is that AEB does not have Air injection and the ATW does have air injection. So the only difference is the head casting. No big deal as the exhaust/air passage can be blocked off in many different ways. Simplest being just mounting a "dummy" combi valve. Anywho, AEB and ATW use M11x1.5x96mm Head Bolts.
The AMB and all other (except above mentioned) 1.8Ts all use the same block with the timing belt driven water pump, also referred to as "Internal Water Pump". Only a few of the newer style 1.8T's don't have Air injection but I don't recall which specific engine codes don't. Again, the air injection is a relatively minor detail. Though the hitch lies with the head bolts. The timing belt pump engines use M10x1.5x115mm head bolts.
Both head bolts have 15mm diameter heads. The head gasket is also the same for both blocks.
I'd also like to note that the AEB and ATW engines are so sought after not because of the heads but rather the bottom ends as the cranks and rods are more "heavy duty" so to say. You can also install a Cam adjuster in place of a plain tensioner on any of the engines without any problems.
The crankcase vent plumbing and air injection plumbing can be dealt with easily enough. The AEB and ATW vent plumbing have seperate adaptors mounting to the block where as all other 1.8T's have the vent plumbing and oil condensation drain back through the oil filter stand/adaptor. Again, that stuff is not a big deal.
I guess long story short, I think the reason I have always heard that the older style heads could not be used was because of the head bolts and people just being too lazy to trim 19 - 20 mm off the M10 bolts. BTW 11mm bolts are very uncommon not to mention in a 1.5 thread pitch. 10mm bolts generally use a 1.5 thread pitch but I doubt you'll find generic socket cap bolts as "torque to yield" bolts (stretch bolts)
My two cents would be to figure out wether you need air injection or not. If so, I would just get my hands on a ATW engine and build that for high rev's and high HP rather than building a frankenmotor which still leaves you with the "weaker" bottom end. Like I said, swapping a chain tensioner for a cam adjuster is no big deal.
Just my 2 cents. Who knows, maybe I'm just some idiot with no clue. If so, someone please correct me. For those who wana disagree purely for the sake of arguement, then by all means, fire away.
C
Originally Posted by AudiA4_20T
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