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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings aaronz's Avatar
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    Jun 10 2008
    AZ Member #
    29770
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    Spiders
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    Chicago And NJ

    Question Update Again! Advice Needed!

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    I am not sure it is directly related to my intake, but that is deffinitly the side the sound is coming from.

    I thought it might be related to this problem:

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ghlight=gurgle

    (half way down) about bleeding the coolant, so I will have to give that a try.

    Are there any other reasons why the intake side of my engine would make a gurgle when idle?

    When I rev the engine you can no longer hear the sound, when the car is off the sound goes away. It is only when the car is at idle.

    K and N filter, stock airbox, boost gauge are about the extent of my after market parts that would have any relation to this.

    I thought I read somewhere it could be a boost leak issue, but I can't seem to find that thread anymore.


    Any help is appreciated as always!



    ***UPDATE***

    So after doing a lot of searching I decided to try and "vent" my coolant.

    I let the car cool down for about an hour. Unscrewed the reservoir cap, and took the engine cover off.

    Located the coolant hard line and saw the bleeder screw. To my surprise the top of my bleeder screw was just sitting there, loose. I just picked it right up. The actual shaft of the screw ( I am not even sure it is a screw) was still in the hard line.

    So I need to know two things:

    A) What is going to be the best way to remove the thread part with out breaking more pieces into the line.

    and

    B) Can I just purchase this screw (again not even sure if it is a screw) or am I looking at big bucks here?

    What it looked like when I took the cover off:



    With the screw head off:



    The top of the bleeder screw:




    As always thanks for the help!


    ****UPDATE 2****

    Okay so I went and got a nice extractor set. Thing is, the screw is plastic so it didn't do the trick. The bit just kept spinning. I tried even putting locktight on it and letting it sit. No dice.

    So I did what I was trying to avoid, drilled the bold out. Matched the bit size to a little smaller than what was left of the bolt. Drill out went perfect, most shavings went upwards and out. Then I used a dental pick to start pulling and chipping pieces out. It went smooth until the last bit. That bit fell into the line and I was unable to retrieve it.

    My questions to you AZ'ers is this:

    Will a coolant flush and change get these pieces out? And any other debris that might have gotten into the system?

    If not, what are my next steps? I was even thinking about taking it to JiffyLube and hoping they have some sort of power flush system that might spit the chunks out. Again this was at the bleeder screw, it looks like the hard line goes into the block after that but I am not sure.


    Thanks!
    Last edited by aaronz; 08-19-2008 at 07:20 PM. Reason: UPDATE***
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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings aaronz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 10 2008
    AZ Member #
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    Chicago And NJ

    Re: Air Intake Gurgle***UPDATE HELP NEED MORE NOW***

    Sorry about the blurry pictures. I had to take them in black and white with the cell phone so that you could see what I was talking about more clearly.
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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings CO AVANT's Avatar
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    Feb 12 2004
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    Re: Air Intake Gurgle***UPDATE HELP NEEDED MORE NOW***

    Is your bleeder screw plastic or metal? There are two different versions of the hardline now and I think they only sell the plastic bleed screw now (pos imo). You should be able to just purchase the screw or find bolt in the same thread size and length at ace hardware. Just make sure it's hardened....the metric allen head bolts usually are. The whole hardline and screw assembly came as a package when I bought one a month ago. I forgot the price but it was well under $100 IIRC. You should be able to wedge a screw driver or some other hard tool similar in size to the hole and unscrew the bleed screw. If debris gets into the line you prolly have to take the hardline off and wash it out with water. There are a bunch of soft hoses connected to it so the best tool to use is a craftsman hose clamp removal tool located in the auto tools section. If you don't want to purchase that a set of vise grips can do the trick, just a bigger PITA. A metal pic or screw driver might need to be used to break the seal on the soft hose to hard hose connection as heat and the coolant can make those connections stick together pretty good.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings aaronz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 10 2008
    AZ Member #
    29770
    My Garage
    Spiders
    Location
    Chicago And NJ

    Re: Air Intake Gurgle***UPDATE HELP NEEDED MORE NOW***

    Picked up a new screw, $2.75 at the Parts counter. I will take pictures along the way so if anyone else ever has to do this!
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  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings aaronz's Avatar
    Join Date
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    AZ Member #
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    Re: Update Again! Advice Needed!

    up!
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  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings aaronz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 10 2008
    AZ Member #
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    Location
    Chicago And NJ

    Re: Update Again! Advice Needed!

    Just for future guys and gals who run into this I just read another way I WISH I would have tried.

    Heat up a flat head screw driver, really hot!

    Jam it into the top of what is left of the screw. Let it cool down, then try and turn it out that way.
    Last edited by aaronz; 08-20-2008 at 08:29 AM.
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