In - Line Check Valves

[absolutegtr]

So, I am guessing the LDP is next to the Vacuum resevoir, correct?

Tomorrow I will try and scan the diagram I have made to see if I have everything correct.

Is the block off plate for the combi-valve the only "extra" piece I need?

[old guy]

So, I am guessing the LDP is next to the Vacuum resevoir, correct?

Tomorrow I will try and scan the diagram I have made to see if I have everything correct.

Is the block off plate for the combi-valve the only "extra" piece I need?

The LDP is up under the drivers side rear wheel liner.

[absolutegtr]

The LDP is up under the spare tire next to the EVAP charcoal canister accessed from underneath the car. It vents under the left rear wheel liner.

RIght. So obviously the charcoal canister and LDP must stay.....

What is the Vacuum resevoir?

[B6Lovin]

Being that my car is at 101,000 miles I dont need the dealership anymore....

Plus I am a DIY guy from mile 1......I dont really trust anyone working on my car

sami if you want any help with this PM me - i'd be happy to give some assistance if you need it. (via PM)

also, zims -- if you want to do this lmk and we can meetup wherever so that you can see my engine bay (how things are routed) and i can show you the basics on yours.

[B6Lovin]

I am completely mystified that the crankcase ventilation system is considered "optional" and easily removed without consequences. The system provided is configured as built to function properly according to the various operational conditions that must be accommodated. Besides effective crankcase pressure regulation, the system is configured to provide vacuum to things like the brake booster, while at the same time, allowing for boost pressure conditions without causing loss of functional effectiveness of the various aspects of the connected equipment. It's clear that the system and the possible unintended consequnces of modifiying the crankcase ventilation and vacuum system are not well understood. Regardless, modifications or removal of the stock setup is not advisable, unless there is a defined problem needing a remedy that justifies the modifications involved.

john, i understand what you're saying - and i completely agree that PCV is important and not something to simply be tossed aside... I'll try to get a PN and name of the thing i'm running in my exhaust that pulls a constant vacuum through the crankcase regardless of whether or not the engine is in boost.

as far as the loss of braking power -- it shouldn't be that huge of an issue because nobody here brake boosts their cars... i'm willing to bet that 99% of people on these boards who are going to do this type of modification will not be hitting their brakes while their car is in boost. thus making that a moot point.. you won't see a loss in braking performance. Mike (jet jockey) went through this same dilemma with his car and concluded that a straight line to the brake booster was just fine.

[old guy]

RIght. So obviously the charcoal canister and LDP must stay.....

What is the Vacuum resevoir?

The vacuum reservoir helps maintain vacuum within the system when the engine is boosting. It is located under the front left wheel liner: Clicky click item #26.

[B6Lovin]

The thing that concerns me is the crankcase pressure building up....but on that same note, there are many members on here with all this crap gone.

1) What gets done with the Vacuum resevoir?

2) The N112 valve must stay to avoid a CEL, correct?

3) What gets done with the N249 valve?

4) Do you just cap off the line coming from the Charcoal caniste(after or before the sensor)?

5) But I still am confused as to what i do with the EVAP purge valve. Doesnt that release gas-fume build up from the tank? That is obviously necessary.

6) Another thing is what is the LDP (Leak Detection Pump - V144) and where does that lead to?

7) Do all the TIP connections/ports get blocked off (with the exeption to the N75 connection)?

ok, i've tried to answer these questions as best i can (yes i know shawn already answered many of them)

keep in mind that i have Unitronic stage 3 software which sets ALL readiness checks to pass PERMANENTLY. I can pass OBDII emissions as long as nobody REALLY looks for the things that the computer is checking (and as lazy as 99% of shops are with inspections, this is no problem for me in NC)

for the constant PCV question -- i have a solution which i will try to get more details about soon. basically it uses the flow of exhaust gases over a slanted pipe with a hole in it to draw a constant vacuum in your crank case. it will vent even when the motor is in boost, and it allows you to simplify all of the plumbing surrounding the PCV system...

this same principle could probably be applied to the brake booster for those who are worried that they may need to hit the gas and brakes at the same time (lol) - the only problem being that i don't know how MUCH vacuum it sees and how that would affect braking performance (though i imagine it wouldn't be very detrimental if at all).. I'll have to hook up a gauge to the line and find out, as well as monitor it through the RPM range to see how it changes.

on to your questions

1)take it out, you don't need it
2)i've left all my valves PLUGGED IN for now, but they are all secured out of the way (sort of in the battery tray)
3)same as the n112
4)i have shortened and capped the line on the PASSENGER side. everything after that line (on the EVAP system) has been removed on my car
5)if there is gas pressure in the tank it will vent on it's own. that's how equalizing pressures work - i'm sure you know this
6)couldn't tell you for sure, must've taken mine out though.. no issues to speak of lol
7)yes block them all off. if you still have your MAF/TIP leave the N75 in and connected. if you're like me and have no MAF/TIP you probably don't need the n75 - i have a profec B spec-II

and finally, here's a picture comparing a stock engine bay and how MY engine bay is routed.. (i think i got it all) it's pretty obvious which is which lol... if anyone has ANY questions about how things are routed please just ask.

also, plug ANY holes that you make in the system (for instance, at the intake manifold) and plug them well. otherwise you'll have boost leaks.

[B6Lovin]

as far as removal goes it boils down to what you want out of this. from there you have to look at the routing and plan accordingly -- feel free to PM me with questions.

I think the best way to do a DIY on this would be to have a short DIY for each component, and then allow people to choose how many components they remove. that way it allows for the flexibility needed for this modification.

[absolutegtr]

Thanks Daniel!

Thats exactly what i was looking for. I have the exact same diagram drawn, as what you have pictured on the right, so I am proud of myself, lol.

And I totally understand what you are referring to, by using the exhaust as a vacuum pump.back in the DAY, old ass cars use to use the exhaust a vacuum pump as well. I am guessing I will have to have a slanted pipe cut and welded in place, correct? Preferably before the Y-pipe? For now though I will do what Shawn did, and just run a line down to empty out on the ground.

Curious as to why you still have the the N-valves still plugged in?

One more thing and I know this has been discussed more than once, but do you just shorten the vacuum line running to the EVAP solenoid, reroute the solenoid and plug it in elsewhere? This is the main thing i am confused about, because i am still septical about removing the charcoal canister.....

Thanks and sorry if some thing are repeated, lol!

[B6Lovin]

Thanks Daniel!

Thats exactly what i was looking for. I have the exact same diagram drawn, as what you have pictured on the right, so I am proud of myself, lol.

And I totally understand what you are referring to, by using the exhaust as a vacuum pump.back in the DAY, old ass cars use to use the exhaust a vacuum pump as well. I am guessing I will have to have a slanted pipe cut and welded in place, correct? Preferably before the Y-pipe? For now though I will do what Shawn did, and just run a line down to empty out on the ground.

Curious as to why you still have the the N-valves still plugged in?

One more thing and I know this has been discussed more than once, but do you just shorten the vacuum line running to the EVAP solenoid, reroute the solenoid and plug it in elsewhere? This is the main thing i am confused about, because i am still septical about removing the charcoal canister.....

Thanks and sorry if some thing are repeated, lol!

haha no problem. and yes, with the exhaust thing you drill a hole and weld on a threaded bung just like an O2 sensor and then you thread in the "slanted tube" or w/e you want to call it. i'll probably do mine just south of my second wideband sensor where there's some clearance either just before or after the tranny.

i've still got all my stuff plugged in because I haven't felt like un plugging them one by one and then driving around to see if it causes a CEL. I know that my readiness is set to pass - but that doesn't include the fact that the ECU may notice if the valves are missing all together.

I'm not sure what you mean about the EVAP solenoid... mine is in a box of "scrap crap" in my garage. basically i capped off the line that comes out of the passenger fender, and removed EVERYTHING after that. if you don't want to remove EVERYTHING back to the charcoal canister - all you need to do is cap off the two evap lines that come out near the PS pump. they're fairly rigid and made of some type of plastic with a braided cloth covering part of them. just trace them out from the rest of the vacuum lines.

[absolutegtr]

I would have no problem capping the EVAP line right out of the passenger fender, but what is to be done with the sensor for the EVAP solenoid (#2 in the picture you posted)? Just leave the wiring harness unplugged? Furthermore, how would the gas tank be able to vent pressure build up, with these lines plugged?.....I guess I am just not familiar with how the EVAP/Charcoal canister system works....

[B6Lovin]

I would have no problem capping the EVAP line right out of the passenger fender, but what is to be done with the sensor for the EVAP solenoid (#2 in the picture you posted)? Just leave the wiring harness unplugged? Furthermore, how would the gas tank be able to vent pressure build up, with these lines plugged?.....I guess I am just not familiar with how the EVAP/Charcoal canister system works....

i just unplugged it and tucked it up with the rest of that harness right next to the cabin air filter tray. (literally everything that harness used to plug into is gone now LOL)

now that im thinking about it you may not want to cap that line lol. Im actually not even sure if i ever capped mine off after i shortened it. (i took out my wheel well liner and cut the line off so that it wasn't sticking out into my engine bay)

[absolutegtr]

i just unplugged it and tucked it up with the rest of that harness right next to the cabin air filter tray. (literally everything that harness used to plug into is gone now LOL)

now that im thinking about it you may not want to cap that line lol. Im actually not even sure if i ever capped mine off after i shortened it. (i took out my wheel well liner and cut the line off so that it wasn't sticking out into my engine bay)

Right. I guess I will figure that out when I get to it.

But Is this the only plate I will need? Nothing else is needed? Any place cheaper?

http://www.intengineering.com/Shop/C...37248245240237

[Audi Skate Snow]

man i bet people are confused as hell when reading all this..

Ill do it to my car and do a DIY on it for everyone... however it wont be for a couple weeks :(

[A4ringedONE8T]

I explained exactly what to do with the EVAP purge solenoid and the line from the passenger wheel well, not sure what the misunderstanding is. Regarding the shit from the drivers wheel well back, you dont need to touch it, once the lines are taken off from the purge solenoid, it is all useless and does nothing, it can remain untouched

[A4ringedONE8T]

i just unplugged it and tucked it up with the rest of that harness right next to the cabin air filter tray. (literally everything that harness used to plug into is gone now LOL)

now that im thinking about it you may not want to cap that line lol. Im actually not even sure if i ever capped mine off after i shortened it. (i took out my wheel well liner and cut the line off so that it wasn't sticking out into my engine bay)

The purge solenoid needs to be plugged in and connected to the line coming from the passenger well, with that line cut (just open), it is a direct open line to your gas tank. With the solenoid connected to it and plugged in, it is only open when the ECU intends.

[absolutegtr]

The purge solenoid needs to be plugged in and connected to the line coming from the passenger well, with that line cut (just open), it is a direct open line to your gas tank. With the solenoid connected to it and plugged in, it is only open when the ECU intends.

Thats what i need to know thanks. Where did you end up rerouting this stuff?

[B6Lovin]

The purge solenoid needs to be plugged in and connected to the line coming from the passenger well, with that line cut (just open), it is a direct open line to your gas tank. With the solenoid connected to it and plugged in, it is only open when the ECU intends.

eh, my ECU stopped paying attention to my evap stuff lol. (i guess a better analogy is that it was put into a permanent vegetative state in regards to all things concerning my emissions)

if it's really that important then i'm just going to lengthen that part of the harness, and keep it tucked up out of the way. I like not having it there anymore

[zims666]

zims -- if you want to do this lmk and we can meetup wherever so that you can see my engine bay (how things are routed) and i can show you the basics on yours.

Thanks Dan that sounds awesome. Just gotta find some time. haven't even managed to wash the damn thing lately. Maybe using my car as the guinea pig, WE could finally get this part-by-part DIY cranked out... PM sent

[GTMRS4]

X 10 of wanting it done...lol offer is still $20 bucks...

Anyone near Columbus, oh?

I'm in Cincy

[HeymyAudi]

Well Guys this write up works! I had a huge leak ( Hose Exploded during tuning ) I went and ripped out all that shit on the drivers side and capped off 1 spot on the manifold and hooked up the boost gauge and DV directly to the manifold... Now for the Crankcase breather piece... I just tied it all in with a 1in hose and a 3/4 Brass coupling from Home Depot and couple clamps.. I will post pics later.. But its very straight forward... And now if you have a boost leak you should know exactly where to look.... Great Thread!

[absolutegtr]

Well Guys this write up works! I had a huge leak ( Hose Exploded during tuning ) I went and ripped out all that shit on the drivers side and capped off 1 spot on the manifold and hooked up the boost gauge and DV directly to the manifold... Now for the Crankcase breather piece... I just tied it all in with a 1in hose and a 3/4 Brass coupling from Home Depot and couple clamps.. I will post pics later.. But its very straight forward... And now if you have a boost leak you should know exactly where to look.... Great Thread!

Did you remove the N112 and N249 valve from underneath the intake manifold? I guessing you kept the SAI.....

I will be doing this, this weekend, just waiting for the EGR block off plate to come in....

[texasboy21]

so is someone planning on doing a write up on this with detailed pics and such?? I have been told time and time again that i need to remove some of this and id really like to see some pics and do a little reading before hand.

barrett

[absolutegtr]

so is someone planning on doing a write up on this with detailed pics and such?? I have been told time and time again that i need to remove some of this and id really like to see some pics and do a little reading before hand.

barrett

Have you read this thread at all?

All the info is posted in this thread. Plus, I just said in the post above your that i will be doing this, this weekend (pending a part to be mailed)

[B6Lovin]

zimms and I will be doing this on his car sometime soon too, so if there's no write up by then we'll do it. But like Sami said, all the info is here - just no pictures

[texasboy21]

i read all of it and i know understand, but have one more question, what should i use to plug any openings??

barrett

[absolutegtr]

i read all of it and i know understand, but have one more question, what should i use to plug any openings??

barrett

You could use something like a screw (screw it into an open vacuum line) and then just ziptie it in place.

[B6Lovin]

i'd recommend small rubber plugs if you can get them, but yes - a small bolt ziptied in place can work. (ideal way is to put a small screw into the middle of a plug and then clamp it on)

[HeymyAudi]

Man tonight I really got into the car after removing the Evap system and now that the DV is connected to the Intake Manifold.. OMFG everything is sooo much better and I feel as if the car responds to me pushing the pedal alot faster... Holds boost well and even between shifts it is soo quick.... I think this is what I was looking for..... My ECU kinda freaked out on me at first until I drove it for couple miles... But other than that... WHAT A DIFFERENCE!

[absolutegtr]

I have to wait until Monday now, after school, until I can start this.....ugh

[B6Lovin]

how's this "hurricane" treating you sami? hahahaha

i just feel bad for anyone in ike's path.. :(

[absolutegtr]

how's this "hurricane" treating you sami? hahahaha

i just feel bad for anyone in ike's path.. :(

What can i say? Hanna is blowing pretty good right about now

Seriously though, all the schools were closed today and all businesses were just about closed.....pretty pathetic, lol......Just rain and wind

[B6Lovin]

better safe than sorry i suppose. i keep hoping some miracle of god will fill the shop i work at with water tomorrow so i don't have to go to work (we're doing inventory... ugg)

[diagnosticator]

Man tonight I really got into the car after removing the Evap system and now that the DV is connected to the Intake Manifold.. OMFG everything is sooo much better and I feel as if the car responds to me pushing the pedal alot faster... Holds boost well and even between shifts it is soo quick.... I think this is what I was looking for..... My ECU kinda freaked out on me at first until I drove it for couple miles... But other than that... WHAT A DIFFERENCE!

Why did you "remove" the EVAP system? It's sole purpose is to capture fuel vapors from the gas tank, then meter the captured fuel vapor into the engine to be burned as part of the fuel requirement. If that system is disabled, the emissions of unburned hydrocarbons will be uncontrolled, and the evaporated fuel won't be available for use in the engine as a part of the fuel needed to run the engine. The EVAP system has NO negative effect on engine performance or drivability, but disabling the system has several negative consequences.

Any changes in engine responsiveness or performance you notice, is due to the changed DV control action resulting from the changed control signal hose connection to the intake manifold directly. But aside from the perceived benefit you experienced, that change also has negative consequences for best fuel economy and degraded drivability during certain operating conditions.

[HeymyAudi]

Why did you "remove" the EVAP system? It's sole purpose is to capture fuel vapors from the gas tank, then meter the captured fuel vapor into the engine to be burned as part of the fuel requirement. If that system is disabled, the emissions of unburned hydrocarbons will be uncontrolled, and the evaporated fuel won't be available for use in the engine as a part of the fuel needed to run the engine. The EVAP system has NO negative effect on engine performance or drivability, but disabling the system has several negative consequences.

Any changes in engine responsiveness or performance you notice, is due to the changed DV control action resulting from the changed control signal hose connection to the intake manifold directly. But aside from the perceived benefit you experienced, that change also has negative consequences for best fuel economy and degraded drivability during certain operating conditions.

I completely understand what it does.... But all those extra lines were just getting into the way.... The motor is alot cleaner... If there is some boost leak you know where to look becuase there isnt 99 vaccum lines causing you 99 problems.... Now the gas tank vapor is still being caught in my catch can... and the fumes from the crank case was being pushed through a 1/2 pipe that was 1/2 way clogged with shit from over the years... Moving to a 1" pipe and then having that vent into a catch can definatley made the car run better up top.... As for fuel... Im getting more than enough....

[HeymyAudi]

Did you remove the N112 and N249 valve from underneath the intake manifold? I guessing you kept the SAI.....

I will be doing this, this weekend, just waiting for the EGR block off plate to come in....

I left if plugged in under the manifold....

[texasboy21]

ok, i've tried to answer these questions as best i can (yes i know shawn already answered many of them)

keep in mind that i have Unitronic stage 3 software which sets ALL readiness checks to pass PERMANENTLY. I can pass OBDII emissions as long as nobody REALLY looks for the things that the computer is checking (and as lazy as 99% of shops are with inspections, this is no problem for me in NC)

for the constant PCV question -- i have a solution which i will try to get more details about soon. basically it uses the flow of exhaust gases over a slanted pipe with a hole in it to draw a constant vacuum in your crank case. it will vent even when the motor is in boost, and it allows you to simplify all of the plumbing surrounding the PCV system...

this same principle could probably be applied to the brake booster for those who are worried that they may need to hit the gas and brakes at the same time (lol) - the only problem being that i don't know how MUCH vacuum it sees and how that would affect braking performance (though i imagine it wouldn't be very detrimental if at all).. I'll have to hook up a gauge to the line and find out, as well as monitor it through the RPM range to see how it changes.

on to your questions

1)take it out, you don't need it
2)i've left all my valves PLUGGED IN for now, but they are all secured out of the way (sort of in the battery tray)
3)same as the n112
4)i have shortened and capped the line on the PASSENGER side. everything after that line (on the EVAP system) has been removed on my car
5)if there is gas pressure in the tank it will vent on it's own. that's how equalizing pressures work - i'm sure you know this
6)couldn't tell you for sure, must've taken mine out though.. no issues to speak of lol
7)yes block them all off. if you still have your MAF/TIP leave the N75 in and connected. if you're like me and have no MAF/TIP you probably don't need the n75 - i have a profec B spec-II

and finally, here's a picture comparing a stock engine bay and how MY engine bay is routed.. (i think i got it all) it's pretty obvious which is which lol... if anyone has ANY questions about how things are routed please just ask.

also, plug ANY holes that you make in the system (for instance, at the intake manifold) and plug them well. otherwise you'll have boost leaks.

can someone please go through this picture and circle all the items that can be removed without throwing a cel. i just went out to try to delete the n249 adn n112 and theres a lot of pluming going to places that would me damn near impossible to plug. can you really get rid of all those chech valves and related plumbing??

barrett

[diagnosticator]

Guys I plan on doing this....and I will take pics.

If I dont mess anything up, I will post a DIY,

Only one question: Why does the factory have these check valves from the getgo?

The check valves prevent boost pressure from flowing backwards pressurizing the connected systems, by allowing flow only in one direction, toward the engine intake manifold when intake manifold pressure is below ambient outside air pressure.

[diagnosticator]

The setup shown, won't work. First, when boost is present, several problems will exist, there will be a boost leak into the exhaust through the extractor,(talk about hard to find boost leaks!) and the crankcase will be pressurized. Second, when the intake manifold absolute pressure is below ambient air pressure, or vacuum, there will be massive EGR as exhaust is sucked into the intake manifold. One other problem is the WG actuator is shown with two hoses, one control pressure signal from the compressor discharge, via the EBC solenoid, the other connected to the intake manifold after the throttle valve. How does that work? Not correctly that's for sure. The problems described would not actually occur because the engine won't run if setup this way anyway. The only way to get this setup to work, is to use....that's right, CHECK VALVES in the hoses shown. So, what was this thread about again?

[absolutegtr]

John I think that drawing is a bit confusing at first glance.

It seems as though the intake manifold attaches to the line running to the exhaust, but that line is really connected to the Brake booster:

Better drawing: