Turbos, Turbos, Turbos...

[HTA A4]

Damn.. Everyone is upgrading turbos lately. And I've seen a few of you going bigger from GTRS. I'm a student so it's a little more difficult for me to put away money for an upgrade (from stock turbo) but I figured out I'll be able to put away about $250 a month for the next school year (8 months x $250= $2000) then I'll be working full time again and being able to put away about $500 a month. And I have $3000 saved already.

So the question is, do I go elim. GT2871r or full GT2871r (or bigger lol)? I don't really know how much more it would be for the full setup but from what you guys have told me from previous threads, I need a full setup or bigger to meet my goal of 325awhp. If I went elim. I would go with the kit from DTH for like $3600 i think. I really just want to do it right the first time but I don't know how much it would be to piece together a kit.

Please help me guys, I really appreciate it. Thanks

-Anthony

[wagonbaron]

if you are still in school and having to put aside what is probably a fairly significant amount of your income, do not go BT. you are forgetting that once you get everything together, which will cost more than you expect, you are likely going to have to deal with more frequent repairs, etc.

save your money until you can more easily budget yourself.

[widgget]

yes, things are more likely to break with a BT since you are taxing the engine harder and the parts you need to replace them with are more expensive then oem parts. i couldn't imagine how much my car would have cost me if i had to pay for labor, doing everything myself makes a huge difference, something else to think about.

not trying to talk you out of a BT at alllllll, but it sucks to find shit like this out after the fact.

Performance wise it's GREAT and worth every penny in my own opinion, just don't over extend yourself.

[jackyaudi]

if you are still in school and having to put aside what is probably a fairly significant amount of your income, do not go BT. you are forgetting that once you get everything together, which will cost more than you expect, you are likely going to have to deal with more frequent repairs, etc.

save your money until you can more easily budget yourself.

X2.

IF you dont need it, dont waste time and money on the Turbos. For my 4 years in college all I did is 2 things: Save save save save and study study study study .

After college you can go crazy on your car :)

[DenverNoob]

I agree on the above opinions as well. Modding is far more than just a kit, its a never-ending process of minor failures and repairs, small parts breaking in greater numbers and sometimes a load of headaches. Rarely do modding plans just go "as planned" when everything just falls into place, programming is immediately great, and everything runs 100% right off the bat. Just keep that in mind as you save, because at the end of the day you will need to have saved enough to potentially replace your motor, or build it right from the inside out...not dreadfully likely but certainly a possibility when going bt!

if you really want to do this, I would seriously consider building your motor...rods, pistons, etc. If daily drivability, and more importantly longevity are a goal, I would seriously consider that point above all others when building a bt car.

[AudiA4_20T]

for 325awhp you need rods... and as for being a student, I am also. I dont pay for school which is nice, but i pay for pretty much everything else and I manage some nice mods. If your creative you can find ways to make $$

[HTA A4]

I won't be paying for school and I don't have to pay for nearly anything. Also, I'm going to a junior college so I'll be living at home.

[Maverick]

you need a better clutch.
how many miles is your car? you sure it's healthy to do a BT mod? go and do a compression test

[HTA A4]

Just ordered Stage 4 Southbend and new flywheel from Mike at DTH

[DenverNoob]

for 325awhp you need rods...

not trying to nit-pick here, but I know you know it has abolutely nothing to do with HP, which is a mathmatical calculation derived from the real problem, torque. My experience with stock rod is 100 lb/ft of torque per cyl. for stock rods. I know this because that was about what I hit for 1/10th of 1 sec in cyl 2 when my rod turned into a weed-whacker and destroyed everything in my motor but a few hoses (and even those needed a bit of cleaning...lol).


and that was on a k04 running e85.

so anything approaching 400 lb/ft of torque is gonna create a problem...and moreover....depending on the setup (and here I will assume a stock configuration intake and exhaust mani as most are...meaning cyl 2 is the shortest run for intake AND exhaust gas and hence the most powerful) you dont need to be at 400 lb/ft of tq overall to hit 100 on that cyl...and hence grenade.

perhaps I am a little more aware of the danger seeing as I did what nobody else seemed to be able to do....pop a rod on a k04-15...lol.

[F16HTON]

for 325awhp you need rods... and as for being a student, I am also. I dont pay for school which is nice, but i pay for pretty much everything else and I manage some nice mods. If your creative you can find ways to make $$

Really? I have been making 325+AWHP for nearly four years on stock rods and my car continues to run flawlessly.

I cannot speak for what anybody else on here is doing or has done, but this is my simple secret for sucess.

~ATP 71R Eliminator (GTRS wil make similar power, the 71R just has a little more top end)
~ATP Upgraded exhaust manifold
~Neuspeed Extreme TIP (Eurocode edition)
~Stock Airbox
~440cc injectors (550cc are the prefered injector right now)
~REVO Programming
~ER Competition series FMIC
~Forge 004 BOV

I first went big turbo back in September 2004 and have been on REVO programming ever since, I switched to the Eliminator series turbo in February 2006.

FWIW last weekend the car ran consitent 13.2 @ 102 in temperatures in excess of 105 (track temp was nearly 120).

Now I know that 13.2 in not that impressive since the car typically runs in the 12.8s but this was on a 91 octane and 110 octane mix, full weight and a full tank of gas, my overall octane rating was about 95, also I did not even let the ECM adapt prior to making the runs.

I am sure that Jordan can attest to the fact of how well my car runs, I get ZERO check engine lights, my ESP always works whether I have my MAF plugged in or unplugged and after not driving the car for a month, the only stored codes I had were from starting the car without an intercooler attached.

Now I will get to the downfalls of running my setup, clutches do not always hold the torque when the car is fully tuned, the B6 slave cylinder does no apprear to be up to the task of disengaging the clutch correctly and it can get a little tempermental.

[AudiA4_20T]

Really? I have been making 325+AWHP for nearly four years on stock rods and my car continues to run flawlessly.

I cannot speak for what anybody else on here is doing or has done, but this is my simple secret for sucess.

~ATP 71R Eliminator (GTRS wil make similar power, the 71R just has a little more top end)
~ATP Upgraded exhaust manifold
~Neuspeed Extreme TIP (Eurocode edition)
~Stock Airbox
~440cc injectors (550cc are the prefered injector right now)
~REVO Programming
~ER Competition series FMIC
~Forge 004 BOV

I first went big turbo back in September 2004 and have been on REVO programming ever since, I switched to the Eliminator series turbo in February 2006.

FWIW last weekend the car ran consitent 13.2 @ 102 in temperatures in excess of 105 (track temp was nearly 120).

Now I know that 13.2 in not that impressive since the car typically runs in the 12.8s but this was on a 91 octane and 110 octane mix, full weight and a full tank of gas, my overall octane rating was about 95, also I did not even let the ECM adapt prior to making the runs.

I am sure that Jordan can attest to the fact of how well my car runs, I get ZERO check engine lights, my ESP always works whether I have my MAF plugged in or unplugged and after not driving the car for a month, the only stored codes I had were from starting the car without an intercooler attached.

Now I will get to the downfalls of running my setup, clutches do not always hold the torque when the car is fully tuned, the B6 slave cylinder does no apprear to be up to the task of disengaging the clutch correctly and it can get a little tempermental.

Honestly Greg, everyone and their mom knows how much power you put down on your setup and what it is. The GTRS was great for awhile but its getting to be obsolete.

And you made that 332awhp on race gas, which no one else has been able to touch yet. That is the TOP TOP of what the GTRS can do. The Revo programming was great for the GTRS but anything past that has been proven to pretty much be junk, especially for the VW guys.