FAIL, wtf would you do

[Molotov]

so, doing my gtrs install and had no such luck getting the coolant return line off...

TA-DA.. at least the turbo and mani are out of the way so i can get at it easier, but my question is.. how would you go about getting this problem resolved.

MUCH THANKS for anything productive.

[Splattj]

Vice grips and monster hand strength are good at getting stripped allen key bolts out.

[bigbro]

vids when finished please

[n7plus1]

Vice grips and monster hand strength are good at getting stripped allen key bolts out.

is this from experience? Im running into the same problem with an allen bolt.

[dougyfresh]

Off the engine or turbo? I can't see the pictures from work.

Gonna guess its the turbo since the GTRS reuses those lines. Get a good flare nut wrench and spray the shit out of the connector with PB-Blaster




EDIT: Just saw the picture on my phone. Remove that canister below it (you don't need it) and try to get some vice grips on like SplattJ suggested. Spray the shit out of it with PB-Blaster and use a dead-blow hammer to tap on the vice grips to try and break it loose. Or find a pipe that fits over the vice grips to get more leverage.

[37doc]

snap on easy outs....

[Splattj]

is this from experience? Im running into the same problem with an allen bolt.

Unfortunately, yes. Get a regular size pair of Vice Grips and set them as tight as your hands can manage. Clamp on to the head of the bolt and tap with a mallet. If that doesn't get it, you'll need to use a quality easy-out.

*as with any seized bolt, PB-Blaster and heat can do wonders...

[lookaught]

Have you tried using a blow torch yet? If its not really stripped try that first, then if that fails vice grips will take it out, I've done it countless times.

Its so critically important to make sure the allen is completely seated into the bolt before you apply any torque, otherwise it strips sooooo much more easily.

Get a nice set of medium size vice grips, they really do work well, even though it seems archaic. A blow torch will make your life easier for sure, heat the head of the bold until its effing hot but not glowing, then immediately snap on the vice grips and apply even, steady pressure until it cracks. The idea is the thermal difference (no matter how small) b/w the bolt and the housing loosens the corrosion etc and you can then back it out.

If all else fails drill it with an angle drill and then the stud thats left shuold back out easily, and you can get PB on the threads for some assistance.

[Dolphin18T]

Have you tried using a blow torch yet? If its not really stripped try that first, then if that fails vice grips will take it out, I've done it countless times.

Its so critically important to make sure the allen is completely seated into the bolt before you apply any torque, otherwise it strips sooooo much more easily.

Get a nice set of medium size vice grips, they really do work well, even though it seems archaic. A blow torch will make your life easier for sure, heat the head of the bold until its effing hot but not glowing, then immediately snap on the vice grips and apply even, steady pressure until it cracks. The idea is the thermal difference (no matter how small) b/w the bolt and the housing loosens the corrosion etc and you can then back it out.

If all else fails drill it with an angle drill and then the stud thats left shuold back out easily, and you can get PB on the threads for some assistance.

I agree with all of this. Only attempt to use the easy-out if you've tried EVERYTHING else. The last thing you want is to break off the easy-out bit inside of the bolt (it happens regularly).

[smarrick]

off The Engine Or Turbo? I Can't See The Pictures From Work.

Gonna Guess Its The Turbo Since The Gtrs Reuses Those Lines. Get A Good Flare Nut Wrench And Spray The Shit Out Of The Connector With Pb-blaster

Pb Blaster Is Hands Down Best Penetrating Lubricant

[lookaught]

Pb Blaster Is Hands Down Best Penetrating Lubricant

To be honest I dont find it all that useful, the bolts that are really stuck usually cant be accessed by the PB, unless you can get at the threads from the back end of the bolt like on suspension components.

Heat is the best weapon, though I've drilled my fair share of hardened steel bolts before, that is teh suckage! I hope that one day I can live somewhere without salt, or be rich enough to just pay people to do this shit.

[lookaught]

Off the engine or turbo? I can't see the pictures from work.

.

It looks like the one on the block, not the turbo.

[bananas]

Home Depot
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...IrwinCat100511

[Killerteve]

I clamped a vice grip on to the allen. It felt like something was gonna break(as in the allen) but it finally broke loose

[Molotov]

alright, thank you very much for the suggestions so far.

Whats a quality vice grip? Looks like i'll add that to my tool set. Don't really have access to heat.

Right now I'm looking at the stripped drain plug, 2 bolts on the boost reservoir that won't budge, and another stripped one on the boost reservoir.

BTW i have pb blasted the shitfuck out of these things, probably 3-4 times for 20 seconds at a time last night, so it's had plenty of blaster.

[dougyfresh]

Do you have a bellypan on this vehicle? I'm willing to bet the NorthEast winters is what is killing you right now.


Vice Grips. Only the best. Only the original FTW!

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100316

[vdubstreets]

Home Depot
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...IrwinCat100511

thats what i would do

[lookaught]

BTW i have pb blasted the shitfuck out of these things, probably 3-4 times for 20 seconds at a time last night, so it's had plenty of blaster.

PB Blaster will not do shit unless it can reach the threads. In this situation, you are trying to remove a coolant line that uses crush washers to keep high pressure coolant from leaking. There is no hope for the PB blaster to get to the threads, it will not help, it can not help b/c you're trying to get a liquid to drip past a compression fitting thats designed to prevent liquid from leaking.

Heat, on the other hand, will work. Get a torch, get some vice grips, and it will back out. In many instances it comes out a hell of lot easier than you'd think, and you end up cursing yourself for not resorting to the power of the vice grips sooner. Needlenose vice grips are another indispensable garage tool that every person should own in addition to channel locks, tin snips, a 6 way screwdriver, and full size vice grips. A cold beer is usually a great addition for the party after you get it all apart

Just make sure you put on the grips at tight as humanly possible. I've even used channel locks to close vice grips to get that extra pressure, though that is an extreme case.

[diagnosticator]

One of the easiest and fastest ways to deal with this problem, is to use a brass rod and a hammer to shock the faster threads, before the socket head is stripped. The rod is placed at a shallow angle and the other end struck with the hammer, don't be shy! Next, make sure the hex tool is fully engaged in the fastener before applying loosening torque.
Even if the socket head has already begun to strip, shocking the fastener often allows removal with a partially stripped bolt head. Using a ball pean hammer to pean the socket to fit the tool tighter is often helpful also. Shocking the fastener helps avoid shearing the bolt head off of the bolt shank as well, that would require a drill out and likely need a thread insert to fix.

[absolutegtr]

One of the easiest and fastest ways to deal with this problem, is to use a brass rod and a hammer to shock the faster threads, before the socket head is stripped. The rod is placed at a shallow angle and the other end struck with the hammer, don't be shy! Next, make sure the hex tool is fully engaged in the fastener before applying loosening torque.
Even if the socket head has already begun to strip, shocking the fastener often allows removal with a partially stripped bolt head. Using a ball pean hammer to pean the socket to fit the tool tighter is often helpful also. Shocking the fastener helps avoid shearing the bolt head off of the bolt shank as well, that would require a drill out and likely need a thread insert to fix.

YUP!

This method has worked countless times for me.

Believe it or not, (this would obviously be on a bolt you havent stripped yet), but tightening the bolt first will unseat the seized threads, and will easily be removed!