what speakers do i need for the front non bose?

[marcink99]

is it 6.5? thanks would like to make sure before i buy also please five me specs for the rear:) If iam not mistaken there are 2 speakers per door plus subwoofer. total 9 speakers right? is there a center speaker? if yes should i replace it?

[marcink99]

also those it matter if i buy 2 way or a 3 way ? those it really matter quality wise since we have tweaters?

[Who Needs 8]

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109569

[sorloA4]

yes, 6.5", 1 tweeter and 1 woofer per door, and 1 subwoofer in the rear deck, but not sure about the centre speaker... some say yes, some say no... Dont mix up with that u have "2" speakers per door... actually they are 1 set of component speakers consist of 1 tweeter and 1 woofer.

when u buy 2 way component speakers, they come with 1 set of speakers per door: 1 tweeter and 1 woofer, so when u upgrade your stock speakers, both of the speakers will be upgraded... unless u choose to upgrade with coaxial speakers, which only comes with 1 speaker per door.

not sure about a 3 ways on our cars... but for sure they will be custom made... which will be expensive

quality-wise of course 3-way is better than 2-way, and 2 is better than 1...

[Quattro]

6.5 and has to be 2 way (speaker & tweeter)

[marcink99]

sorry fellas i dont get it cant i just buy 3way speakers(speaker has woofer, tweeter and something else) and than buy a tweeter for them?

[Quattro]

yes, you could do that. you need to get components which come out cheaper, and components come with speakers, crossovers and tweeters.

You could buy a 3 way speaker and get a tweeter, but that would prob give you more highs than you want. 3 way speakers have the tweeter built in, if I am not mistaken....so if you have a tweeter in the speaker and another non matching tweeter above, you can have distortion and might be to squeaky for your liking. If you are going to have massive bass, than you could justify doing a 3 way and tweeter...

try hitting up the audio section on the forums, to get more info on 2v3 way speakers....

I would recommend a component set of speakers, unless you wanna do something more aggressive, by having speakers, mids and tweeter.

lastly, if I am not mistaken most 3 ways are made in 6x9, but I could be wrong

[Who Needs 8]

A 3-way with an extra tweeter is over kill.

[bcramer]

Okay here is the deal. The car comes with one woofer (6.5") per door and one tweeter (1") per door.

The first question I have to ask is why you want to replace the speakers? While it may seem as though you can just swap speakers in and out it's not quite that simple... The processing that is built into the head unit / amp will not yeild favorable results. That and the fact that the impedance of most stock systems/speakers are normally pretty weird.

One last thing, the 2-way, 3-way stuff you are seeing and looking at is strictly a marketing gimmick.

[marcink99]

Okay here is the deal. The car comes with one woofer (6.5") per door and one tweeter (1") per door.

The first question I have to ask is why you want to replace the speakers? While it may seem as though you can just swap speakers in and out it's not quite that simple... The processing that is built into the head unit / amp will not yeild favorable results. That and the fact that the impedance of most stock systems/speakers are normally pretty weird.

One last thing, the 2-way, 3-way stuff you are seeing and looking at is strictly a marketing gimmick.

I want to upgrade my sound system. I already got one 12 with amp in the trunk/ While iam satiesfied with the system i want something batter sounding not necessary louder just batter quality wise. I plan an grounding my bose pin tomorrow to see if it will sound batter if not than i will upgrade my speakers and than most likly get POWER ACOUSTIK PTID-4006T 3.6 head unit or alpine. I know that alpine is most likely batter sounding but i love how power acoustic looks.Also any tips on removing stock radio i have only 2 radio keys and they seem not pull radio when i put them in.

[bcramer]

I want to upgrade my sound system. I already got one 12 with amp in the trunk/ While iam satiesfied with the system i want something batter sounding not necessary louder just batter quality wise. I plan an grounding my bose pin tomorrow to see if it will sound batter if not than i will upgrade my speakers and than most likly get POWER ACOUSTIK PTID-4006T 3.6 head unit or alpine. I know that alpine is most likely batter sounding but i love how power acoustic looks.Also any tips on removing stock radio i have only 2 radio keys and they seem not pull radio when i put them in.

Okay, here is my recommendation based on your post above.

Replace the head unit first and see if the results satisfy your needs or not. Since the head unit is the source for the way your music is going to sound it is always the first place you should start when upgrading car audio IMO. I think you will most likely be happily surprised.

I would also go with Alpine over the Power Acoustik deck you mentioned. The sound quality and tunability will be far superior.

If after upgrading the head unit you're still not satisfied I would then upgrade the stock speakers and get an aftermarket amp to power them. I assume you would want a rather simple setup in which case I would go with a set of components with a passive crossover and a 2 channel or 4 channel (bridged into a two channel) amp.

[marcink99]

Okay, here is my recommendation based on your post above.

Replace the head unit first and see if the results satisfy your needs or not. Since the head unit is the source for the way your music is going to sound it is always the first place you should start when upgrading car audio IMO. I think you will most likely be happily surprised.

I would also go with Alpine over the Power Acoustik deck you mentioned. The sound quality and tunability will be far superior.

If after upgrading the head unit you're still not satisfied I would then upgrade the stock speakers and get an aftermarket amp to power them. I assume you would want a rather simple setup in which case I would go with a set of components with a passive crossover and a 2 channel or 4 channel (bridged into a two channel) amp.

JUst to make sure i have to run when replacing hu i have to rerun all the speaker cables right?any tips an geting radio out of the dash?

hmmm if iam not mistaken front speakers are powered by the hu while rear by the amp right? it makes me wonder if my amp is going bad rear seems really weak compared to the front.

[bcramer]

JUst to make sure i have to run when replacing hu i have to rerun all the speaker cables right?any tips an geting radio out of the dash?

hmmm if iam not mistaken front speakers are powered by the hu while rear by the amp right? it makes me wonder if my amp is going bad rear seems really weak compared to the front.

When replacing the head unit you do not have to re-run the wiring. You will either need to purchase a wiring harness adapter or make yourself. If you do no want to buy one from a store you can try reaching out to TeddyBgame on the forums as he was making custom harnesses at one point (I'm not sure if he still is or not).

As far as getting the head unit out of the dash...

A) Go to a local car audio shop and see if you can borrow their keys for a second...or slip the guy a few bucks to use them.

B) If you purchase your new head unit online, specifically from crutchfield, you will often times get a set of keys. Which would now mean you have four and it would be easy :)

C) You can do it with two keys. Insert them in the bottom then top or vice a versa and use a kitchen spatula to pull the unit out a little bit before you move the other side. It should then pull out quite easily.

Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll do my best to help.

[sorloA4]

u r right, front speakers are powered by the HU and the rear speakers and subwoofer are powered by a small amp at the back.

so if u want to install an new amp, then its better to change the HU together.

[Who Needs 8]

A) Go to a local car audio shop and see if you can borrow their keys for a second...or slip the guy a few bucks to use them.

That's what I did on my sister's VW when I couldn't get the head unit out. Went to a shop and gave the guy $10. He popped it out in the parking lot in a few seconds.

[shawn120]

I put in Hertz 165's in the front doors(6.5" fits) Added a JL G4500 amp, and left everythiong else stock. I only ran the amp to the front speakers for now. I may replace the sub later, but for now , it sounds great. The rear sub and doors have there own amp. If I do get the new sub, I will add it to the G4500 as it is a four channel.

[davis449]

quality-wise of course 3-way is better than 2-way, and 2 is better than 1...

One last thing, the 2-way, 3-way stuff you are seeing and looking at is strictly a marketing gimmick.

There is quite a bit of misinformation in this thread. Of the above statements the first is not necessarily true, and the second is just plain bullshit. The real sound "quality" is in the manufacturing of the speaker. Component, 2-way, and 3-way are types of speakers, not necessarily differences in sound quality. Whether or not you go with Component, 2-way, or 3-way depends on the layout and/or factory setup of the car that you are installing speakers in and what you're trying to achieve. Traditionally, Components are considered to produce better sound quality due to the complete separation of the tweeter and the woofer with an external crossover in between. That DOES NOT mean that 2-ways don't produce great sound. If you're in a car that doesn't really allow you to do a Component setup, then a 2-way is ideal in that you can mount the speaker in a single location (say the stock location) and get the benefit of the woofer and tweeter all in one setup.

A 3-way with an extra tweeter is over kill.

I fully agree with this statement with the exception of a case like my daily driver 89 Honda Accord. There is only a four speaker setup in that car and the best way to achieve decent sound in the back seat is to use a 3-way or 2-way 6x8 or 6x9 speaker. In most cases, 3-ways are overkill.

[bcramer]

Davis: The only reason why I posted in this thread was because of the misinformation I saw before I entered. Also, I'm not going into some interent fued with you over what I think are more symantecs than anything else.

I am going to defend my statement though. When people look online for a new setup and they see "6.5in 3-way" that is such a marketing gimmick. There is no added functionality or quality by making it three way.

A 2-way setup can be a different story... If you're talking about a regular coax speaker then it needs to be 2-way otherwise it either just be a woofer or a tweeter...not both. But, why get a coax when you can get a 2-way componenet setup where the tweeter mounts to the woofer? That makes no sense, especially since you're going to have more tunability with the component set.

Also, I highly doubt the OP is talking a 3-way setup with a woofer, mid-bass and tweeter. Which would make the stuff he's looking at...a marketing gimmick.

p.s. Why even put speakers in the back of your Accord? Trying to draw the sound stage behind you?

[davis449]

Davis: The only reason why I posted in this thread was because of the misinformation I saw before I entered. Also, I'm not going into some interent fued with you over what I think are more symantecs than anything else.

I am going to defend my statement though. When people look online for a new setup and they see "6.5in 3-way" that is such a marketing gimmick. There is no added functionality or quality by making it three way.

A 2-way setup can be a different story... If you're talking about a regular coax speaker then it needs to be 2-way otherwise it either just be a woofer or a tweeter...not both. But, why get a coax when you can get a 2-way componenet setup where the tweeter mounts to the woofer? That makes no sense, especially since you're going to have more tunability with the component set.

Also, I highly doubt the OP is talking a 3-way setup with a woofer, mid-bass and tweeter. Which would make the stuff he's looking at...a marketing gimmick.

p.s. Why even put speakers in the back of your Accord? Trying to draw the sound stage behind you?

Point about marketing taken. To your P.S., all the speakers were blown, especially the back ones, and I actually bought 2-ways for the rear cause it was the best solution given what I had to work with $$$ wise.

[marcink99]

When replacing the head unit you do not have to re-run the wiring. You will either need to purchase a wiring harness adapter or make yourself. If you do no want to buy one from a store you can try reaching out to TeddyBgame on the forums as he was making custom harnesses at one point (I'm not sure if he still is or not).

As far as getting the head unit out of the dash...

hmm so the rear speakers would still work even thou signal has to go through stock amp first before reaching speakers?

[bcramer]

Point about marketing taken. To your P.S., all the speakers were blown, especially the back ones, and I actually bought 2-ways for the rear cause it was the best solution given what I had to work with $$$ wise.

I can understand that...

hmm so the rear speakers would still work even thou signal has to go through stock amp first before reaching speakers?

Yes, the rear speakers will still work. This is how the wiring would be ordered:

Head Unit > Stock Amp > Rear Speakers