WTF is wrong with my car???????????

[Seerlah]

I was maybe a 1/4 mile from my house and she just dies on me. Luckily I was close to home so I just parked it to the side and walked home.

For referance: There was a boost leak a couple days ago, so I checked the lines I know of. The one from the manifold where I tapped in for my boost guage (do not know how the other end looks) and my dv. One hose on my dv was loose and I thought that remedied my boost leak. I normally boost ~21psi and the leak had me at ~15. After I put the hose back and clamped it down extra tight, my boost was ~18. So yesterday I took it to my mechanic whom tried to find the leak, but was unsuccessful. We did not use the boost leak tester, but he checked hoses and lines. Then maybe 20 min ago, the b*tch just died on me. No CEL. I am thinking right now that when my mechanic also checked the dv he did not tighten it all the way and it popped off. Would that cause my car to die on me?

I can start the car, no CEL, she goes to idle after start up ~900rpm, then sputters as if she is choking, then dies on me. I started it back up, but this time kept the car in higher rpms to see if the car would die on me, and she didn't. Then I thought that maybe I could drive her home in higher rpms. Nope, not enough power. I should have maybe tried reverse all the way home to see if that would have worked

Did compression test maybe 3 weeks ago and things were fine. 170 on 3 cylinders and 165 on one. What could be the issue? I know I have a healthy car and it just has to be a hose or a line somewhere? Or not?

I am going to have it towed to a local shop as I am not too savy when it comes to cars. And my personal mechanic is like a 30 min drive away. What should I tell the mechanic to look for (worked on our family's previous automoblies and is good at his trade), as to save me money on hourly diagnostic fees and labor? I am 85% confident it is a hose somewhere.

Thanks!

note: if I keep the car revved the car does not die on me and there is no CEL. as soon as I let go of the gas, she goes to idle for maybe 1 second, chokes on me for like 1-2 more seconds, then decides to sh*t the bed

[Nebone]

Has to be a hose thats ripped or that popped off. Try the L hose on the side of the intake manifold and just check the DV lines yourself. A healthy motor would not just "die" on you man.

[Seerlah]

Just for referance, you are refering to the breather hose, correct? link.

I just looked in my Bentley Manual and will check the 3 intake hoses for the manifold and the dv. Wished the car was in my drive way right now. I am about to go and take my bike over there old school style . Anything else I should check for?

[Nebone]

Yea, thats the one. I had a rip in that before and it had same symptoms as yours but it didn't die, but it did throw random misfire codes. You "should" have those. Good luck

[Seerlah]

Well, no dice with the hoses. They are all in tact. I was able to start the car and have it idle normal ~900 rpm and ~20 in hg. I thought after seeing that I could maybe drive the car to my house. Put it in first, all was good. Went to start a 3 point turn and she cut off on me again. Started her back up and she did the same thing. Went to normal idle for maybe 1 sec sputtered for 1-2 sec and then cut off. So, now I am in the middle of the road. So, I start her up and keep her revved, put her in reverse and put it back in the same spot. Took foot off gas and she lowers rpms till it just cuts off.

Interesting thing though, I waited a couple minutes and started her again. Perfect idle at 900rpms and ~20 in hg. But as soon as I touch the gas, it acts like a jerk to me. This time is was strange though. I kept my eyes on the boost gauge and it would just fluctuate between maybe ~10 and 15 in hg. Then cut off.

I can start the car and she simply would not go (she would die on me) or I can keep her revved at idle and she never cuts off. And after all this. No CEL. It was not a misfire though.

What is possibly the culprit now, seeing how at idle it was good around 20 in hg and the hoses for the intake manifold are all intact? I will assume the dv is also good. I am just going to have it flatbedded to the local shop and hopefully it won't cost more than $250 total (towing and labor). Hopefully it is something small (cheap) and not big (expensive).

[matt719]

My car had the same symptom when I cleaned the throttle body and forgot to put the huge intake hose back on. I'm guessing it would be pretty obvious if this was off, but maybe it has something to do with your MAF? Make sure your MAF is plugged in.

[Nebone]

Cam chain tensioners are small but expensive. ;)

Try a throttle body adaptation. Reset the battery and turn ingnition for like 30 seonds until buzzing stops. Then start her up.

[solowb5]

It doesn't matter on a 01 if you pop a hose. I've driven my 01 with no boost and it would still run. I would try to unhook the maf and see if it runs better. Also check the map sensor and the sensor right next to the oil housing. I can never remember the name of it. It is grey and is held in the block with one bolt. It is for timing I believe. I'd only check that if the car will run while it is cold but, when it reaches operating temps it will die.

[Seerlah]

My freind let me borrow his Explorer, so I can run around tommorow looking for a mechanic. The shop I wanted to go to won't work on my car. And I found one shop that wanted to charge me $290 just to look at it . There is a different shop I know of whom has a good guy there maybe 20 min drive from me. I plan on having my car flatbedded there.

But I will check the MAF tommorow. Anything else I should check for. Once again, no CEL. But I think I will borrow the one from Autozone just in case there is a code.

Try a throttle body adaptation. Reset the battery and turn ingnition for like 30 seonds until buzzing stops. Then start her up.

Explain please. Thanks!

[boostedup]

My freind let me borrow his Explorer, so I can run around tommorow looking for a mechanic. The shop I wanted to go to won't work on my car. And I found one shop that wanted to charge me $290 just to look at it . There is a different shop I know of whom has a good guy there maybe 20 min drive from me. I plan on having my car flatbedded there.

But I will check the MAF tommorow. Anything else I should check for. Once again, no CEL. But I think I will borrow the one from Autozone just in case there is a code.



Explain please. Thanks!

throttle body adaptation is easy. get in the car turn the key (don't start the car). let the car sit for a couple of minutes with the key turned and DO NOT HIT THE GAS PEDAL. should adapt by itself,

but this doesn't sound like your problem, sounds like you need a new MAF

[Nebone]

Unplug the MAF and see if it runs "normal." Didn't you just have a fairly new MAf for sale? Car will then run off a base map but at least you'll be able to drive it fine; if it's actually a bad MAF.

[boostedup]

When my maf was bad, it ran like crap with it connected AND disconnected. just throwin that out there.

[gotaudi]

yeah unplug the MAF, this will narrow it down to a few things... either a hose came off, or the MAF died. This is how I get home if a pipe comes off, the car will run off the MAP sensor and basic fuel maps

[Seerlah]

I had that MAF in there for maybe 3 months now brand new along with new 02 sensors. Luckily I still have the old one and it is good. I just replaced all 3 bc I got them all for around $125 or so (all Bosch). Too good of a deal to pass up. But once again, no CEL.

So, the throttle body and MAF. Anything else?

[gotaudi]

Edit:"nevermind I cant read..."

Im telling you go unplug the MAF sensor start the car it might die a few times but the car will adapt, then I think you will be able to drive...

[Seerlah]

Yes. It does not just turn over, but idles at ~900 rpms and has ~20 in hg. I went to my car a couple hours ago and I let it run. But this time for a little longer. It was idling well for maybe 3 min. Then went into it's fainting phase. Like it wanted to die, but didn't. It did this maybe for 30 seconds then cut off.

I tried to move it again, with no success. Not enough power in 1st gear and it would cut off. To get it back to same spot to park, I would have to rev it to at least 4000rpm in reverse just in case of having it cut off on me. Then as soon as it is parked and I let my foot off the gas, it would lower at normal rate then keep on going till engine cut off.

Edit: sorry, I had to edit. my typing is terrible

[gotaudi]

idk this sounds like a classic case of a hose blowing off/came off. the car will idle fine, perfect vac etc... but once you try to go the car sputters and dies(this use to happen to me all the time) If i didnt have the tools in my car I would unplug the MAF sensor and go on my way. I think is what happens is the ECU reads from both the MAP, MAF and O2 sensor for fuel. when the MAF says 0 with it plugged in and the MAP and O2 sensor says otherwise the ECU doesnt know what to do

[Seerlah]

I have an extra MAF, should I swap that in or just unplug it?

[gotaudi]

try unplugging it first then let the car idle for a few minutes then rev it a little... if the car dies after doing that then replace the MAF sensor with your old one repeat... if that doesn't work then come back

[Seerlah]

will do

[AudiRacerS4]

fuel pump?

[Seerlah]

JUst woke up. If the MAF method does not work, I am just going to bring it to a mechanic. Don't feel like going through so much of a headache.

[AudiRacerS4]

sounds like a fueling issue if it only stays running when you have your foot on the gas

[Nebone]

Headaches mean you're learning something.

Get yourself a VAG-COM instead of wasting money on the tow etc. You will have some sort of interminnent code stored in there that can't be picked up by a generic reader.

[Seerlah]

Good advice man. I unplugged the MAF and was able to drive it home. I made an appointment at an auto shop maybe 20 min away, should I keep it or postpone? I am thinking just to keep my car in the driveway and try and fix it myself.

The first thing that came to my mind after I was able to drive the car was 'I wish I had a Vag Com' to log the MAF. I still don't know what the issue is, but I think I am about to go and get the Vag Com now. So, that would be ebay cable, laptop (used ebay special), software (free download from ross-tech), and $99 license key from Ross-Tech, correct?

[Nebone]

Swap the other MAF in and plug it in. Reset the battery too (unplug the negative battery cable for a minute and plug back in) and do that throttle body adaptation as mentioned. This will reset the codes which could be stored and will readapt to the new MAF.

Yea, thats all you need for VAG-COM. You can run it off a Palm-Pilot if you have one too.

[Seerlah]

Found this in the classified. I am just going to get that if he still has it.

I do not have the radio code, so I really don't want to remove the negative feed from battery, but will if I need to. I am just going to let the car sit till the vag com arrives (assuming it is available), swap MAFs, log it (I will need your advice on how to go about this process) and see how it goes from there. Can I do the throttle adapt via vag com if I get that? No radio code and I need my music

[Nebone]

Bah, that radio code thing is a myth. I had my battery out a couple times and never needed a code. I even blew a radio fuse and it just turned on etc. I have a 2001.5 too guy. Swap the MAF now man.

[Seerlah]

Ok, it will take me a couple minutes. I am not a mechanic but am glad I purchased the Bentley manual.

[Nebone]

DIY does not make you a mechanic. It allows you to become familiar with many traits.

[Seerlah]

I feel like an ** right now to inquire this, but do you know what page in the manual(if you have it) it is to replace MAF. I don't just want to start unplugging things to get to it and not remember where they go. I would rather read step by step in the booklet for this particular operation.

[gotaudi]

Just look up how to replace the air filter. The MAF is in the Top part of the airbox.

[Seerlah]

I will do this tommorow, plus it was raining a couple minutes ago and it loks like the clouds are not disapating. I am just happy that I got my car back in my driveway. Now, I am about to cancel that appointment I had at the mechanics. Hopefully, I won't end up needing calling them back. You guys just saved me a couple hundred bucks. Thanks.

[gotaudi]

that's why we are here

[Nebone]

Little rain scaring ya? You're pretty calm about this; I'd be tearing the car down until I'd find what went wrong.

[booost]

Bentley manual is your friend. Good luck man.

[Seerlah]

I actually love the rain. But I would not want to work on my vehicle in it. And it seems the clouds are leaving, so I might be able to get to it in a little while. But the car will get fixed eventually and I currently have my freinds Explorer, so no biggie. Plus my mother said she will let me borrow her vehicle till I fix it. I just ordered the laptop with vag com in the prior post and that should hopefully arrive within the next week or so. So, things are going to get fixed eventually. Hopefully by tommorow dusk.

And I will def be PMing you about the Vag Com and how to use it

And oh yes, the Bentley manual is my freind

[Seerlah]

Update:

Swapped MAFs and now it is back to square one. Also did the throttle body adapt and Nebone is correct about the radio code thing. Still works. But this time it seems worse than before. But maybe because it is now trying to start on a cold engine and it can not sit at a constant idle while trying to warm up. So, what do I do next?

I just ordered a Vag Com, so don't know if that will help diagnose the problem further. Hopefully will be here sometime next week. Till then, I am just going to disconnect the MAF again then start to see if it can idle well and drive. But it is raining again, so I will have to wait a while. Well, on he bright side I have 2 good MAFs.

[Nebone]

You never know if they are good unless you test them. You sure you're not seeing a blinking CEL? ...and hopefully you put the MAF in the correct direction...recheck that. (arrow pointing toward front of the engine; outside the airbox)

[chris164935]

Update:

Swapped MAFs and now it is back to square one. Also did the throttle body adapt and Nebone is correct about the radio code thing. Still works. But this time it seems worse than before. But maybe because it is now trying to start on a cold engine and it can not sit at a constant idle while trying to warm up. So, what do I do next?

I just ordered a Vag Com, so don't know if that will help diagnose the problem further. Hopefully will be here sometime next week. Till then, I am just going to disconnect the MAF again then start to see if it can idle well and drive. But it is raining again, so I will have to wait a while. Well, on he bright side I have 2 good MAFs.

Or you have 2 bad MAFs.
Anyway, take the connector that plugs into the MAF and pull the rubber grommet back and check the wiring. I've had a wire break on me before on that connector for no apparent reason...

As for VAG-Com, I wish you would have went with a genuine Ross-Tech cable. The features that the latest VAG-Com has is just incredible , especially compared to version 4.09. Not to mention the support you get from Ross-Tech. Could have gotten a Ross-Tech cable and a decent used laptop from a pawn shop for roughly the same price... Except you wouldn't get the carbon fiber overlay.