is there any fuse that offers power for a delay, AFTER you lock the car?

[ngng]

I want 12v switched power for a duration of time after I lock and unlock the car. TIA! I thought the radio fuse would have it...but I had 12v switched for a LONG time afterwards

[koolade9]

how long of a duration?

DEI makes pulse timers (basically switched relays) that will activate for an adjustable time period. But IIRC, 90sec was the longest it would go...

What is it you're trying to accomplish? what's the end goal?

[ngng]

how long of a duration?

DEI makes pulse timers (basically switched relays) that will activate for an adjustable time period. But IIRC, 90sec was the longest it would go...

What is it you're trying to accomplish? what's the end goal?

i want my LEDs to stay on for like 10-15 seconds after I lock/unlock my car, much like the feature with the fogs. right now the LEDs trigger a relay when there is 12v switched (off the sunroof)

[koolade9]

i want my LEDs to stay on for like 10-15 seconds after I lock/unlock my car, much like the feature with the fogs. right now the LEDs trigger a relay when there is 12v switched (off the sunroof)

...what I would do...

the lock wire is a negative trigger, brn/gry or red/brn wire in either the driver's kickpanel or off the factory alarm, which should be at the bottom pass side of the trunk. My A4 is different, so I can't verify this for you...you'll have to tap and test them yourself...and please be carefull...

use that negative trigger to activate the pulse timer (the pulse timer wires up like a SPST relay) which you can wire in with your LEDs.

if you want the same effect with unlock, it's also a negative trigger, gray/wht wire in the same location(s) as the lock wire. You can use it to activate the same trigger on the pulse timer. The trick here is to diode isolate both the lock/unlock wires to keep them from working against one another...

15 sec is definitely possible with that relay and should work just fine.

[ngng]

...what I would do...

the lock wire is a negative trigger, brn/gry or red/brn wire in either the driver's kickpanel or off the factory alarm, which should be at the bottom pass side of the trunk. My A4 is different, so I can't verify this for you...you'll have to tap and test them yourself...and please be carefull...

use that negative trigger to activate the pulse timer (the pulse timer wires up like a SPST relay) which you can wire in with your LEDs.

if you want the same effect with unlock, it's also a negative trigger, gray/wht wire in the same location(s) as the lock wire. You can use it to activate the same trigger on the pulse timer. The trick here is to diode isolate both the lock/unlock wires to keep them from working against one another...

15 sec is definitely possible with that relay and should work just fine.

mthanks. was hoping for a fuse or wire i could tap :P but it might come to that

[Dirty]

What about the dome light, you can set it to stay on and fade a few secs after you lock it, maybe you can tap into that some how. IDK...?

[AudiA4Turbo22]

^^hey did the guy ever reply to u about the S4 bi-xenons??

sorry for the threadjack

[Dirty]

^^hey did the guy ever reply to u about the S4 bi-xenons??

sorry for the threadjack

No! Not a damn thing.

[AudiA4Turbo22]

^^i think the classifieds are screwed up i've made offers for several products and none have returned!

[ngng]

What about the dome light, you can set it to stay on and fade a few secs after you lock it, maybe you can tap into that some how. IDK...?

i tried BOTH fuses for central convenience...but no dice :/

[koolade9]

i tried BOTH fuses for central convenience...but no dice :/

I doubt it would be directly off the fuse... the fuse will run to the module that actually times out...

why not just tap off the fog lights?

[ngng]

I doubt it would be directly off the fuse... the fuse will run to the module that actually times out...

why not just tap off the fog lights?

I bypassed the stock wiring entirely for the LEDs, I wabted to be able to run these as DRLs that come on with a switched 12. If I tapped the fog wires, I got all kinds of DIS errors AND I couldn't run the lights independently.

I just came to thinking tonight, it would be sexy if the lights stayed on for a little after I locked/unlocked the car. Just a spur of the moemnt kinda thing

[ngng]

any other suggestions?

[koolade9]

I bypassed the stock wiring entirely for the LEDs, I wabted to be able to run these as DRLs that come on with a switched 12. If I tapped the fog wires, I got all kinds of DIS errors AND I couldn't run the lights independently.

I just came to thinking tonight, it would be sexy if the lights stayed on for a little after I locked/unlocked the car. Just a spur of the moemnt kinda thing

When you originally tapped the fogs, did you use those leads to power the LEDs? or did you run them to a switched relay for the LEDs?

Assuming you can get the LEDs to work through a relay without DIS issues (may have to add in resistance, but the relay should provide enough) You could actually use the LEDs as DRLs and keep them on using the fog's circuitry as well...

You'll use the two leads from the fogs to the 85 & 86 points on the relay (if you get DIS problems this way, try just using the switched wire in the fogs for 85, and use a static source for 86) You'll run 30 to the +12v line on the LEDs, the gnd of the LEDs to static gnd. Run the NC (87a) pole of the relay to a 12v switched lead from your igntion harness, or some fuse that's only on when the car is on (DRLs). Run 87 to a constant 12v source.

Let me know if this makes sense, or if you need any further detail...

[B6 Dude]

If I were to do this, depending on the amount of power the switched side of the circuit takes (the side that activates the relay), I would isolate it with a diode, then use a resistor + capacitor to decay the signal. Component sizes dependent on how much current flows through that side of the circuit. Or perhaps do this to the LED side of the circuit, so it gradually fades off. Also dependent on the specific circuit. Are you LEDs just a separate on/off thing? Or are they wired to the park lights or turn signals?

[dirtybrd]

I agree on tapping into the dome lights.

[ngng]

If I were to do this, depending on the amount of power the switched side of the circuit takes (the side that activates the relay), I would isolate it with a diode, then use a resistor + capacitor to decay the signal. Component sizes dependent on how much current flows through that side of the circuit. Or perhaps do this to the LED side of the circuit, so it gradually fades off. Also dependent on the specific circuit. Are you LEDs just a separate on/off thing? Or are they wired to the park lights or turn signals?

i'll have to look it up, it's a standard bosch relay.

the LEDs are independent, I can wire them to whatever i want

[B6 Dude]

i'll have to look it up, it's a standard bosch relay.

the LEDs are independent, I can wire them to whatever i want

The LEDs should have a current-limiting resistor. So a diode and capacitor should give you a nice fade out. If you have the circuit diagram, I can probably help you figure it out.

Cheers,
-Neil.