Quick Help On Podi Vei Systems!

[HTA A4]

Whats do I connect it to to power the gauge? Green wire. If I plug it into a fuse it comes on even when the car isn't on. I need something to plug it into so it only comes on when the ignition is on. HELP PLEASE. Thanks

-Anthony

[Condo]

I used the homelink fuse for switched power.

[kwimberly]

Homelink is what I used for my gauge (and my XM receiver).

[HTA A4]

How do I plug the wire in with the fuse?

[Condo]

I bought a "add a circuit" from Pep Boys. Clean install and it was only $10. I can get a pic if you want.

[kwimberly]

I bought a "add a circuit" from Pep Boys. Clean install and it was only $10. I can get a pic if you want.

x2

This is what the add-a-circuit looked like in my Jetta. No pics of the Audi yet.

[pondside36]

There is a pic in my cars bio ... Goodwood green B6 A4 in the bios section. I used the reverse light fuse with the add a circuit method as mentioned above. The fuses are numbered and labeled on the cover if you didn't notice.. GL

[Exanimas]

I just read somewhere that someone didn't connect the green wire and it worked fine. I think we connected mine to the headlight switch. It kind of flickers though unless you have the brightness settings set right. Weird. Might be something wrong with my gauge.

[pondside36]

you don't hook up the green wire on our cars.. because if the lights are set to dim there isn't enough power to power the gauge... just the red and black (ground)... red to switchable power..

[B6 Dude]

The red and black supply power to the gauge and must be hooked up. The green wire is the signal that tells the gauge that the lights are on, so it switches to the other brightness level. If you don't use that feature, connect it (green wire) to ground to avoid picking up stray noise. If you do use it, connect it to the headlights or parklights as the interior lights on these cars dim by PWM which may cause flicker at some in-between brightness settings. Instructions here... http://veisystems.com/technical.html

[skeeball]

Sorry to drag this back from the dead. I just installed my VEI and I'm getting the flickering. I have the green wire hooked up to the blue/gray wire on the headlight switch. I temporarily fixed it by cranking my interior brightness up (thanks, B6 Dude).

I would like to continue using the dimmer feature without the flicker. Is there another wire I can tap under the dash? Thanks!

[pondside36]

I didn't connect the green wire for the flicker reason, and I just use the dimmer on the gauge itself. I rarely change the intensity on the dash anyways so I just matched it up to my night time setting.

[pondside36]

I didn't connect the green wire for the flicker reason, and I just use the dimmer on the gauge itself. I rarely change the intensity on the dash anyways so I just matched it up to my night time setting.

[skeeball]

Thanks, Pete. That is probably what I'll end up doing. I'll drive around with it for a while and see how I feel.

I'm also having an issue where the gauge readings are totally off. I just hooked it up so I haven't had time to troubleshoot. But it reads 14 when the car is off and around 6 at idle. Which doesn't make a lot of sense.

[Condo]

I'm also having an issue where the gauge readings are totally off. I just hooked it up so I haven't had time to troubleshoot. But it reads 14 when the car is off and around 6 at idle. Which doesn't make a lot of sense.

You just need to calibrate the gauge. The instructions are on page 2.

[pondside36]

That is odd.. how did you run the vacuum line? I went through the wheel well up to the front connection on intake mani with the "T" fitting provided and used two zipties on the connections. You may have a pinch in the line which is giving a residual pressure reading.

[pondside36]

You just need to calibrate the gauge. The instructions are on page 2.

I forgot all about that part since it has been a while.. that should fix it.

[B6 Dude]

You really need the wire that goes to the park lights (or head lights), but I'm not sure where/if that's available under the dash. I need to figure out another way to do this with the dimmer wire -- it shouldn't be difficult, but I need to work out some calcs. I'll out until next week, so I'll figure it out then.

Yes, you definitely need to run the re-cal procedure.

[skeeball]

You just need to calibrate the gauge. The instructions are on page 2.

Thanks, when I read that the first time I thought it pertained to the wideband setup (I got the dual gauge with boost and AFR). Reading comprehension = fail.

I know the vac line is good because it was already hooked up to my old boost gauge.

Regarding the dimmer, I did find this link [pdf warning] which describes hooking up a VEI in a BMW. They use a couple of resistors and a capacitor to eliminate the flicker. I've got soldering skills so I may try that.

Thanks guys!

[B6 Dude]

Wow! -- I remember that circuit. It was a quick fix to "retune" the dimmer to the typical BMW range. It effectively changes the effective threshold level of the gauge's dimmer input. If you try it, do report back what happens. You can also tweak one resistor value if you get a change, but it still flickers where you like your dimmer level to be.

[pondside36]

Nice find on fixing this to work possibly with our cars, keep us posted.

[[email protected]]

I suggest tapping the gauge directly to a switched 12V source instead of trying to jerry rig up a solution to the dimmer wire.

Why?

The gauge also supplies the +5V to power the boost sender and any fluctuation in input voltage to the gauge can also have an impact on how the sender might operate.

[skeeball]

Good point, Winston. I checked the voltage though and it stays right at 11.8 with door open and closed. I had the same experience as you described in another old thread (door open = dimmer works, door closed = flicker). That was with the car off, I didn't take measurements with it on. Maybe the fluctuations are quicker than I can see on the multimeter.

Either way, cutting that green wire is a lot easier than running to the store and getting the capacitor I need.

[B6 Dude]

I suggest tapping the gauge directly to a switched 12V source instead of trying to jerry rig up a solution to the dimmer wire. ...

Wait, I missed something here -- so the red wire is powered off the dimmer wire? If so, you're correct -- that is a very bad thing to do.

[skeeball]

I have the red wire going to switched 12v and the green wire going to the headlight switch. So it should have a solid 12v to power the sender regardless of the dimmer wire status.

[B6 Dude]

The gauge should have a solid (switched) 12V source to the red wire, but the gauge generates 5V (purple wire) to power the boost sender. Don't power the sender off 12V as it will be damaged.

The green wire just tells it which dimmer setting to use -- Br or Bp.

The PWM dimmer pulses are of much higher frequency than you can see with a multimeter -- in the kilohertz range. If you can wait for a week or so, I'll find you a better solution -- I'm not at work this week, so I don't have my test equipment.

[[email protected]]

Just cut the green wire and your problems are solved.

[skeeball]

Yes, I meant 12v in on the red wire so it can generate the 5v for the purple wire. Thanks for the help!