07 S4 manual, trouble getting into 1st

[androidS4]

as the title states, having trouble gettign the 07 S4 (manual) into 1st gear. this occurs 20% of the time from a dead stop. it takes an unusually high amount of hand pressure to go from neutral to 1st.

Yes, the clutch is fully depressed.

stats: started at 10K Mi, and now have 30K Mi and still continues. Dealer says this 'is comon in the new models' after the 3rd time i took it in for the same reason.

sometimes on FLAT ground, the car will even begin to ever-so-slightly roll forward before 1st gear is engaged.

Please let me know what you think... any suggestions welcome.

Thank you, Andy

[cellg8]

take it to a different dealer. it's not the case for me..

[cam]

i have the same problem, dealer told me the same thing, had the car in 3 times for it and it hasnt been adressed yet, im just going to wait for smething to break, and when it does im going to bitch like a mofo

[dpbord]

Sounds like first gear syncros. I was having the same issue in my '07 when trying to shift into first (and sometimes even second) from a stop. My dealer took care of it immediately. The car had around 10k at the time.

[EuroB6]

i had my 2nd gear syncros replaced...had issues going into second...but, going into 1st, i have that problem, had it with my b6 s4 as well..it's no big deal..just put it up to 3rd, then slide it into 1st, it'll go right in

[androidS4]

i've tried the following and they all work OK:

1. rev the engine to 3K+ RMP an it slides in like... butter?
2. from 3rd to first... no problem
3. just before i come to a stop, push it into first... perfect


but, from a dead stop (like 75% of city driving)... SOL

thanks again for everyone's input. keep 'em coming. i like CAM's idea.. just wait 'till it breaks and 'bitch like a mofo'

[UGwagen]

when it doesn't go in, have you released the clutch pedal, then push it down again and shifted into first?

Back in the days of me having japanese cars, it was a normal occurance (both first and reverse), even the owner's manual addressed it.

[kloover]

When at a light, try putting it in 2nd (with the clutch in) and then putting it in 1st...it should be a little smoother.

[mfresh2k2]

when it doesn't go in, have you released the clutch pedal, then push it down again and shifted into first?

Back in the days of me having japanese cars, it was a normal occurance (both first and reverse), even the owner's manual addressed it.

agreed, i was gonna suggest that you let the clutch all the way out then push it bk in...used to happen in my old imports, syncros are not lined up....civic-->s2k-->B6 usp A4-->B7 S4

[old guy]

as the title states, having trouble gettign the 07 S4 (manual) into 1st gear. this occurs 20% of the time from a dead stop. it takes an unusually high amount of hand pressure to go from neutral to 1st.

sometimes on FLAT ground, the car will even begin to ever-so-slightly roll forward before 1st gear is engaged.

Andy,
If I am understanding you correctly you are stating that when in first gear with the clutch fully depressed you are getting a little forward movement. If this is the case the problem is with your clutch, not your transmission. Your clutch is still dragging even with the pedal fully depressed and you are forcing the input shaft to stop turning by using your first gear synchronizer as a brake. If you do not address this problem you will wear out all of your syncros in short order. The problem is one of two things. either your hydraulic system isn't functioning properly and you are not getting a full stroke or else there is a mechanical problem with your clutch assembly. It may be a separating disc, a broken pressure plate spring, or a defective throw out bearing. You can check the hydraulics by pumping the clutch rapidly several times and immediately try engaging first. If that seems to help the problem there is a good chance the issue is with the hydraulics. Best case scenario is to bleed the system and if there is any air present you may fix the problem. Unfortunately that is rarely the issue. If pumping helps and bleeding doesn't change anything I would replace the master cylinder. If pumping has no effect you are probably going to have to pull the transmission and fix whatever is wrong with the clutch. One thing is for sure, if you do nothing you will be rebuilding your tranny soon.

Good luck!

[androidS4]

Andy,
If I am understanding you correctly you are stating that when in first gear with the clutch fully depressed you are getting a little forward movement. If this is the case the problem is with your clutch, not your transmission. Your clutch is still dragging even with the pedal fully depressed and you are forcing the input shaft to stop turning by using your first gear synchronizer as a brake. If you do not address this problem you will wear out all of your syncros in short order. One thing is for sure, if you do nothing you will be rebuilding your tranny soon.

Good luck!

Thanks for the heads up, but i have tried the 'pump action' to build hydro' pressure, no luck.

I don't believe the clutch is dragging, because when the car is in 1st gear it does not roll forward. the only time it rolls forward is when I have to forcibly push the gear shift into first. once into position, it does not try to roll forward any more. I wish you could see it happen, cause it's freakin weird.

thanks again to all... keep in touch.

[old guy]

If your clutch is fully disengaged the input shaft is no longer transferring any energy (motion) to the transmission. The only way the car can move is to have energy transferring from the motor to the wheels, which obviously has to go through the transmission. If it occurs when you are forcing the first gear syncros to a halt, (high engagement force) the energy to move the car has to be transferring through the clutch to the input shaft. In other words, your clutch has to be involved (dragging) or the car would not move.

[spa]

same thing happens to my wifes a4 2.0t, dealer says it's nothing. the only thing that works, like mentioned here, if it won't engage.. take a sec let the clutch out again then try 1st again at it will go in. It use to happen more often now as more miles are on the car it happens less and less. Do not force it in whatever you do!

[Tiesto]

same thing happens to my wifes a4 2.0t, dealer says it's nothing. the only thing that works, like mentioned here, if it won't engage.. take a sec let the clutch out again then try 1st again at it will go in. It use to happen more often now as more miles are on the car it happens less and less. Do not force it in whatever you do!

You can easily get around this by going into 2nd and back into first quickly with the clutch in the whole time.

[androidS4]

Sorry to bring up old s**t, but it's getting worse. I have been putting up with the monotonous task of going to 3rd THEN to 1st at every stop, and now it is getting difficult to shift to 3rd... wtf. I will be taking it in for my 35K service in the next week or two, and I will let you know if the dealer aknowledges& fixes the problem (or not).

Thanks again for all who contributed, and I will talk to you soon. Andy

[androidS4]

FYI, finally got some R-E-S-P-C-T and durring the 45K check up the dealer acknowledged the problem. He is saying 7 to 10 days to diagnose. I will let you know how it goes. Andy

[androidS4]

here's a crappy pic (PDF file) of the work description. the dealer also admitted that they did have 'some trouble with this model's manual transmition, but it was only two other cars.' This repair was fully covered with my warranty.

http://www.geocities.com/abandroid/C...2009_00000.pdf

you should also know they were very nice about the whole situation and sincerely appologized that it took so long to finally figure out what was wrong. The serrvice tech is Meksut Ago at the Audi Chandler, Arizona location.

Thanks again for everyone's input and feel free to PM if you have any Q's

[old guy]

Thanks for the follow up! I would love to hear from you again in a few months to see if the symptoms return. I see that they replaced the first/second gear synchronizers. I would like to know what the technician thinks caused the excessive wear. I'm surprised that they didn't do anything with the clutch while they had everything out. I sincerely hope your issue is resolved but I have a nagging feeling that the root cause has yet to be addressed.

Best of luck! (and i hope I am just being overly paranoid).

regards,

Old Guy

[rlarsen462]

Ugh, I think I have this problem on the new car as well. Tough to get into 1st in the morning, and usually difficult to get into first when completely stopped (can usually get it in really smoothly if I go into 1st just before reaching a stop). All other gears seem to be unaffected, but it does shift noticeably more smoothly when the car's warmed up (I've owned cars that were this way as well, and some that were opposite, shifted better when cold).

Just resurrecting this thread to see if the problem had resurfaced or had another discovered root cause. I suspect I will bring this issue up with the dealer at some point so it's on the record (still getting little "after purchase" problems sorted out right now).

[adistoe82]

Hi,
I have the same problem on my 05 A4 3.0 Quattro USP. I took the car to the Audi dealer two weeks ago for the coil pack recall and asked them to check the hard first gear engagement. They said there is nothing wrong with the car but almost every time when I am at a stop light I have to use more power to push it in the first gear, sometimes it helps if I depress the clutch and wait 2-3 seconds before engaging. My CPO warranty will expire in 9/2010 and I have 90k miles on the clock.
I was wondering if you have any advices of how can I pursue the dealer to fix this issue.
AndroidS4, can you upload one more time the work description picture? It is not clear to me what is wrong down there, the first gear synchro, the clutch, master/slave cylinder.
Thank you

[Aka]

I had something similar, and what happened was somehow my clutch pedal was stuck in a somewhat depressed position. I just pulled the pedal back towards me a bit, it sort of clicked into place, and everything has been great since then. Give that a try.

[adistoe82]

I found this on a BMW forum, I went out to the car and I would say the first diagnosis is what I am experiencing. That means my clutch needs to be replaced? Is there anything else I can try before getting a new clutch?

Service Information - Bulletin Number 23 01 99

SUBJECT: Manual Transmission Difficult to Shift - Diagnostic Tips
MODEL: All with Manual Transmission
SITUATION: Transmission may be difficult to shift especially first gear engagement and/or gear shift linkage is binding. Note: Field observations have indicated that a transmission which is difficult to shift (especially into first gear) is primarily a clutch related problem and only in isolated cases a failure in the transmission itself.

PROCEDURE:

Verify the customer complaint:

Note: Engage the parking brake and assure that no people or objects are in the vehicle's path.

- Run the engine at idle speed
- Press the clutch pedal to the floor
- From the neutral stick shift position engage first gear

If first gear is difficult to engage, hold the stick shift at the resistance point (approximately half of the total stick shift travel) with constant force.

Then switch the ignition off with the other hand.

DIAGNOSIS 1:
If first gear now engages completely, i.e. the stick shift moves to the end position without any additional pressure applied, there is a problem in the clutch system.

Explanation:
Because the clutch does not uncouple completely, a residual torque is transmitted to the transmission input shaft when the engine is running. This inhibits the release and meshing of the sliding sleeve, in the transmission, at the end of the synchronization process. Turning the engine off relieves the input shaft of this torque thus simulating a completely uncoupled clutch.

DIAGNOSIS 2:
If the stick shift remains at the resistance point, there is a problem in the external gear shift linkage or in the transmission.

CAUSE:

DIAGNOSIS 1:
Possible causes for a clutch problem as per Diagnosis 1 above are:
- Input shaft taper splines not lubricated properly/grease dried out.
- Clutch disc difficult to move on transmission input shaft.
- Clutch disc wobble.
- Air in the hydraulic system of clutch mechanism.
- Release bearing defective or difficult to move on the guide sleeve.
- Clutch disc or pressure plate broken/worn out.

DIAGNOSIS 2:
Possible causes for gear shift linkage binding and/or internal transmission problems as per Diagnosis 2 above:
- External gearshift linkage binding (shift rod joints stiff).
- Stick shift bellows boot incorrectly installed (positioned too high or too low on the stick shift lever).
- Sound deadening between the outer gear shift linkage and the body incorrectly installed and/or distorted.

Possible causes inside of the transmission:
- Faulty synchronization.
- Internal gear shift linkage binding.
- Water in the transmission fluid (rare).