Trying to get a feel for audi clutch

[masteroc]

So I come from driving a 5spd Jaguar X-type to this 6spd 3.2 quattro audi and im having some trouble getting used to the shifts. It seems that every time I shift I get a bump or jerk. Now i've watched the tach when im shifting and I believe that the problem is that the rpms are falling too fast and that the clutch/trany is having to bump them up resulting in the jerk. Is this correct (I know that it is difficult to tell without seeing my driving, etc.) For some reason in the jag the rpms never fell that fast (the dealer says that is because the audi has a higher compression ratio, is this correct?). Is there any special trick to shifting in the audi or should I just apply more gas while I move up the clutch. Im just afraid that if I put too much gas it will put undue wear on the clutch.

Thanks!

[edkwok]

release your clutch slow-er

[johntesi]

It's true, the Audi transmission is certainly one of the touchier I've experienced. Just keep practicing, it will come to you eventually! Some have reccomended leaving your foot a little tiny bit on the gas when shifting- basically just 'resting' on it. It still catches me off guard sometimes and gives a small defiant jerk.
No idea on the compression ratio, I've heard others mention the revs are related to the air conditioning.

[masteroc]

I had tried leaving my foot lightly on the gas and it smoothed out my shifts, but i really thought that it was bad for the car/synchros/trany to do this...not sure tho, im no expert.

[davis449]

You'll get used to it. I HATED my clutch for the first year I drove this car, now I'm in love with it and now God help me trying to drive my friends' GTI, A3, and especially M Coupe (that ****** is straight drop the clutch and hold on, there is NO finesse). The one who owns the GTI just got back from driving mine this weekend and he said he would take my clutch and ride over the speed advantage he has currently over me all day long.

[80CID]

So I come from driving a 5spd Jaguar X-type to this 6spd 3.2 quattro audi and im having some trouble getting used to the shifts. It seems that every time I shift I get a bump or jerk. Now i've watched the tach when im shifting and I believe that the problem is that the rpms are falling too fast and that the clutch/trany is having to bump them up resulting in the jerk. Is this correct (I know that it is difficult to tell without seeing my driving, etc.) For some reason in the jag the rpms never fell that fast (the dealer says that is because the audi has a higher compression ratio, is this correct?). Is there any special trick to shifting in the audi or should I just apply more gas while I move up the clutch. Im just afraid that if I put too much gas it will put undue wear on the clutch.

Thanks!

wow r u serious.....buy an auto

[masteroc]

wow r u serious.....buy an auto

Was that really called for?

[Burtonnboarda]

i noticed a big difference coming from a WRX.. when i was test driving i could not make that car go for anything haha, just the difference in quick acceleration and a touchy clutch made it so that my wrx clutch dropped when i wanted it to but the audi would not let me move, youll get used to it. I also get that thump sometimes too, for me its always just letting the clutch out too soon and gas to late instead of evening them out

[AudiWxGuy]

All clutches are different. Try shifting around 2600 RPM. I can get a very smooth shift there from second to third to fourth. First likes to be either real quick, shift before 2k, or later, around 4. 3k will jerk a bit. When the A/C is off, 3200 seems to be the magic number as the synchros turn off and it gets a shade harder to get a smooth shift off. It can be done. The friction point with these is fairly large and is about halfway up from the floor. Once you find that, and try shifting at those points, you'll be all set.

For the record, when I test drove the Subaru Legacy GT Spec B I stalled it pulling out of a parking lot b/c i was not used to the clutch. I also stalled my aunts m3 before I got used to that clutch as well. The audi clutch is no performance, BMW or Subi clutch, but it gets the job done. Just play around with it.

[Alkemix]

Was that really called for?

Pretty uncalled for.

I'd suggest get into gear quicker. I've noticed that when i get into 5th gear, I need to pay attention to my previous 4 gears of acceleration. If I'm doing a 4 gear pull and go into 5th, i def. want to get in a little quicker or start sooner on my gas pedal while dropping the clutch. I honestly believe the engine tranny/wear caused by the jerk your under powered shifts are producing are more damaging than the little bit of extra gas your giving the engine to wear the clutch a little faster.

I drive a 2.0TQ, so i can't say definitively we experience the same issue, but I think we're on the same page. You're still feeling out the new transmission so you're probably not going to want to throw the car into gears like a you're driving in the Le Mans, but once you get comfy with that super plush 6MT gearbox, clutch, then you won't mind throwing it around a little quicker.

For now, get on the gas slightly before you get off the clutch, or just keep the A/C running whenever you drive.

[a4dc89]

yeah, ive been driving manual all my life. ive taught a few of my friends as well.

The best thing to do to fix this problem is to make the shifting into gear and taking out the clutch the same motion around the same time. So basically take the clutch out as you're putting it into gear. This should help solve your problem

FYI--- my audi seems to actually drop much slower than some other cars ive driven. but the compression ratio does make some difference

[edkwok]

All clutches are different. Try shifting around 2600 RPM. I can get a very smooth shift there from second to third to fourth. First likes to be either real quick, shift before 2k, or later, around 4. 3k will jerk a bit. When the A/C is off, 3200 seems to be the magic number as the synchros turn off and it gets a shade harder to get a smooth shift off. It can be done. The friction point with these is fairly large and is about halfway up from the floor. Once you find that, and try shifting at those points, you'll be all set.

For the record, when I test drove the Subaru Legacy GT Spec B I stalled it pulling out of a parking lot b/c i was not used to the clutch. I also stalled my aunts m3 before I got used to that clutch as well. The audi clutch is no performance, BMW or Subi clutch, but it gets the job done. Just play around with it.

I agree. It shifts more smoothly when above 3.2k rpm. Before 3k, I gotta release the clutch slower for a smooth transition.

[masteroc]

For now, get on the gas slightly before you get off the clutch, or just keep the A/C running whenever you drive.

I'm in Florida, that A/C is runnin every minute im in the car!

And also, does shifting when it reaches 3.2k or above waste gas? I know that the engine produces its most torque around 3.2, so it should be fine in that its best to shift when it reaches its maximum torque. For some reason i always thought that for the best gas mileage i should shift before or around 2k, so thats what i try and do.

[Larson7.62]

I would not shift below 2k. I get pretty decent mileage shifting around
2.5k-3k. However, the others are correct in that it isnt as smooth as a bit higher RPM's.

[drexplode]

JHM SSK & Snub mount FTW!

[AudiWxGuy]

No..FTL. Those SSK are very, very bad for our MT's. DO NOT GET ONE!!! They wreak havoc on the synchros.

[drexplode]

No..FTL. Those SSK are very, very bad for our MT's. DO NOT GET ONE!!! They wreak havoc on the synchros.

Do you have proof of this, or simply making speculation? Speak with data.

I dont know how many kits JHM has sold, but i imagine it is quite a few.

[EMAXX]

A SSK was the first mod I was going to do, next to tint, but I've heard so many bad things about it on this site... It kind of makes me worry.

[masteroc]

I don't think im gonna be up for putting in a Short Shifter until i've got a good feel for the car and the transmission as it is. But that may be on my later list of things to do.

[drexplode]

A SSK was the first mod I was going to do, next to tint, but I've heard so many bad things about it on this site... It kind of makes me worry.

you have heard so many bad things about the JHM or a SSK in general?

[AudiWxGuy]

I've heard the JHM is a good product. Don't get me wrong. It just messes with our syncros., and could burn out your tranny/linkage faster than usual. I mean just think of how it works. It makes sense. There is a reason our transmission drops like it does. It's meant to work with the gearbox it came with. I guess you could compare it to putting springs on stock shocks. It will work for a little while, but that's about it.

[EMAXX]

you have heard so many bad things about the JHM or a SSK in general?

Just SSK in general. I've heard some good things about JHM.

[drexplode]

Ok, i understand....

You realize, just by shifting you will wear syncros; that is the nature of a manual transmission. As long as the clutch is depressed the syncros will match, mesh and the lever will slide through the gate. I am certainly not a tranny expert, but I certainly dont fear wearing syncros out prematurely due to the use of a SSK.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission.htm

If you want an honest opinion, email Jason at JHM and ask for his experience... he is not the type of guy to lie to you just to sell a product. He is an audi enthusiast just like most of here on AZ.

[email protected]

[pakratt99]

First things first, your 2.0T is a turbo car and will have considerably lower compression due to the turbo, just the mechanics of how a turbo charger works, aka compressing air to create more oxygen in a charge and thus more hp. But as you have a blowoff there is no compression when your foot is off the gas and thus you have the native compression ratio which is rather low (Something like 9:1).

Secondly, I have noticed the same bit of a clunk when I first picked up my car as I can shift quicker than the engine spools down, which is the opposite of what you were thinking but might be the case in your situation as well. The 2.0T actually runs a pretty heavy flywheel stock and its rather noticeable during sporty driving.

Finally the idea that a short throw shifter would wear syncro's more quickly is sort of an odd one, the shifter does nothing more than make the actual shifter post shorter, it does not change the pattern and this should have no effect on syncro wear, what might cause a syncro wear issues is the different driving style of people who install such mods, things like track days, drag racing, and auto-x events......

[a4dc89]

Wow i really cant believe that people are talking about what RPMs are better to smother to shift at. Prob one of the dumbest things ive heard on the board. You should be shifting at a certain point for your driving conditions and throttle.

In order to become a good manual driver you need to be able to shift at the right engine speed and be smooth at at it. I can shift smoothly at pretty much any rpm or speed, it just takes practice and adjustment of your clutch work.

[masteroc]

Thanks for your post pakratt99, but I have the 3.2 v6.

A4dc89, thanks for the constructive criticism.

[nrosei4]

First things first, your 2.0T is a turbo car and will have considerably lower compression due to the turbo, just the mechanics of how a turbo charger works, aka compressing air to create more oxygen in a charge and thus more hp. But as you have a blowoff there is no compression when your foot is off the gas and thus you have the native compression ratio which is rather low (Something like 9:1).

Secondly, I have noticed the same bit of a clunk when I first picked up my car as I can shift quicker than the engine spools down, which is the opposite of what you were thinking but might be the case in your situation as well. The 2.0T actually runs a pretty heavy flywheel stock and its rather noticeable during sporty driving.

Finally the idea that a short throw shifter would wear syncro's more quickly is sort of an odd one, the shifter does nothing more than make the actual shifter post shorter, it does not change the pattern and this should have no effect on syncro wear, what might cause a syncro wear issues is the different driving style of people who install such mods, things like track days, drag racing, and auto-x events......

Good basic info here. Just to add to this - inertia is the reason that the engine will drop it's rotational speed quickly or not. In this case, the A4 actually has a high inertia due to the dual mass flywheel.

Also, anyone out there that is feathering the gas while disengaging/engaging the clutch should STOP this immediately. This slips the clutch more than it was designed for, and will lead to a significantly reduced clutch life. This is true under all conditions. Do not excessively slip during takeoff, or on a hill, etc. The facings are designed to withstand certain amount of heat energy (from slipping)- beyond that limit, the clutch facings begin to degrade quickly.

Everyone should be able to match the engine speed with the transmission no matter what gear or engine speed. (up or downshifting) This will prolong your synchros and clutch life.

[ItsThat2.0T]

I hate reading topics like this, makes me regret getting an auto...damn you all!

[333Inlinesix]

After coming from a B6, it took me some time to get used to the clutch on the B7. Just give it some time and practice and you will figure out how to change gears smoothly. I've put 2500 miles on mine already and it's smooth as can be.

masteroc, how many miles have you put on so far?

I also had no idea they made a manual for the X-Type in NA...sounds like a cool car.

[AudiWxGuy]

Good info about the SSK's.

[INTEGRATION]

I never really liked the clutch-friction plate on our A4; it seems too soft and doesn't catch quickly enough for my driving tendencies. I'm seriously hoping it dies soon so i can go with a Sachs or Clutchmasters, a lighter flywheel would be nice too while I'm at it.

As for a short shifter, yes you can use one. BUT you guys must understand that the reason your synchros wear out much more quickly is because of YOUR DRIVING STYLE. Let's say it takes you about 0.5 seconds to make the transition from gear to gear and that Audi had intended for this to be so. So now if you got a short shifter and now it only takes you only 0.35 seconds to shift from gear to gear... uh oh. But if you continue to take 0.5 seconds to shift from gear to gear then you should be ok for the most part.

^ I hope I put that in a way that you guys can understand.

[skiaudi]

i am only 18 and knew how, but barely, to drive a MT before i got this car a couple months ago, so i had some trouble getting smooth shifts at first. the thing that made the biggest difference in my shifts was this technique: once you've depressed the clutch and selected the next gear, you let out the clutch slowly to the friction point while still leaving your foot OFF THE GAS, and once you reach the friction point, releasing the clutch more quickly as you simultaneously give it gas.

[masteroc]

After coming from a B6, it took me some time to get used to the clutch on the B7. Just give it some time and practice and you will figure out how to change gears smoothly. I've put 2500 miles on mine already and it's smooth as can be.

masteroc, how many miles have you put on so far?

I also had no idea they made a manual for the X-Type in NA...sounds like a cool car.

I've only put about 400 miles on the car so far.

[nrosei4]

once you've depressed the clutch and selected the next gear, you let out the clutch slowly to the friction point while still leaving your foot OFF THE GAS, and once you reach the friction point, releasing the clutch more quickly as you simultaneously give it gas.

My intention is not to offend you, however I would recommend you do apply the throttle until AFTER the clutch is fully engaged (pedal all the way up). What is happening is you are forcing the clutch to slip at the cost of inducing heat into the clutch.
You should practice shifting at the right point in time when the engine speed is correct for the gear you are about to shift into. This will lead to less torque interruption without having to slip the clutch. You WILL wear your clutch at a greater rate if you do not change the way you shift. Just looking out for your car and your wallet

[skiaudi]

right, i do not believe i am slipping the clutch, but i may be wrong.. what i am thinking is that by keeping my foot off the gas while the RPMs drop to the desired level for the next gear, i am avoiding slipping the clutch. when i give it too much gas before the clutch has started to engage, the RPMs jump and i end up feeling an engine jerk when the clutch engages and brings them back down (which i think feels like slipping). for example, if i shift at, say, 3000, i wait for the RPMs to drop to around 2200, then start releasing the clutch, and when it gets to the friction point, apply gas evenly as i release it fully. does this technique sound faulty?

My intention is not to offend you, however I would recommend you do apply the throttle until AFTER the clutch is fully engaged (pedal all the way up). What is happening is you are forcing the clutch to slip at the cost of inducing heat into the clutch.
You should practice shifting at the right point in time when the engine speed is correct for the gear you are about to shift into. This will lead to less torque interruption without having to slip the clutch. You WILL wear your clutch at a greater rate if you do not change the way you shift. Just looking out for your car and your wallet

[dchan189]

ahh sorry if this post is old. I'm also still getting used to my clutch. its rather hard... it is often jerky and bumpy haha. driving stick on this car is hard! how can i avoid this?

[masteroc]

Apparently there is no real solution per say, just practice.

[a4dc89]

This car is prob the easiest car to drive, very forgiving. for those having trouble, it takes some getting used to the electronic throttle. It has a slight delay that can cause shifting difficultly. Once you learn to work with it, it becomes very smooth.

[shallowedout]

wow r u serious.....buy an auto

Dude seriously? Lets tone down the internet attitude OK, cause I know for a fact you wouldn't say that to someone in person. This isn't youtube, its a forum for people passionate about something, and I have/had the same problem. I went from an automatic, I drove stop/go traffic 45 miles one way to work and now I have a clutch with the new A4 I bought, let me tell you nothing gives you better practice than a 3 hour commute home in traffic...I drove a clutch about 5 years prior to my automatic and I absolutely love the Manual vs. the Auto but it does come with some growing pains.

I have found giving it gas alleviates the issue, VW/Audi is by far the touchiest clutches I have driven especially compared to Nissan, they have a VERY loose feeling clutch.