Here we go again....

[sCeRaXn]

Well i recieved my driveshaft today, but when i went to take my old one off i couldnt get the bolts out on the tail end(driveshaft to rear diff). I tried everything i could think of and NOTHING worked. So i got out the air ratchet hoping it could do get them out, but it was like bringing a spork to a sword fight. So i went and got my small impact wrench and turned it all the way down to 100ft/lbs and it didnt budge it, turned it to 150ft/lbs and it still didnt budge it, turned it to 200ft/lbs and it instantly stripped it. Great! So i turn the driveshaft to get to the other bolts, only to realize that i just stripped the ONLY bolt that wasnt already stripped. Needless to say, im pretty f#@$&ng annoyed right now. Id really like to find the guy who did the work on this thing and give him a swiff kick to the testicles, because this is only the 5th set of nuts/bolts that were stripped on it.

After messing with it for atleast an hour i finally got one out by hammering in a t40 torx bit and breaking it loose. Theres thread sealer from the head of the bolt all the way down...and only 1/3rd of the bolt is actually threaded. Ive never seen any thread sealer like this, it actually looks like jb weld or some sort of epoxy.

Anyway, does anyone have any hints or tricks on how i could get these little bastards out? Ive tried vice grips, bolt extractor, hammering in hex bits, and i actually tried to braek one off with the air hammer but i wouldve messed up the driveshaft and not been able to get my core charge back. Oh, and it was also douched with wd40 2hrs before i worked on it, i heated up every bolt with a torch, and tried the old school hammer smacking to break the threads loose. Im completely stumped, ive never seen anything like this in my life. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

[AudiTechS4]

the red thread lock paste is factory, i always take them out with a impact and a 6mm allen socket

[sCeRaXn]

Well the impact didnt really help me at all lol. Also, this wasnt factory paste(which is blue on these bolts btw)...it was gray and the whole bolt was covered in it. Thanks for the bump though.

I really need to get these things out. Ive gotta get new bolts anyway so i dont really care if i thrash these...i just want them gone.

[AudiTechS4]

get a 12 point 12mm i think or maybe 11mm socket and hammer it over thats what i use when i strip the centers

[sCeRaXn]

Aight ill give that a try tomorrow. If that doesnt work i might just weld a nut on it and see if i can break it off with the impact.

[FrimmelNoJerz]

lift weights. nycvr6 unscrews those bolts with his fingers.

[AudiA4_20T]

lift weights. nycvr6 unscrews those bolts with his fingers.

HA!

[Nexus1155]

sorry to hear that maybe you can use some of this
......

THE ALMIGHTY THE ALL MAGICAL

[onemoremile]

Heat usually melts threadlocker which makes removal much easier. Rather than using a torch you can hold the tip of a soldering iron in the head of the bolt. Give it a minute and it should be hot enough to remove easily.

[sCeRaXn]

Trust me...it was definitely hot enough. Besides, even if i could break the thread locker i still have to somehow get the stripped bolts out.

As far as taking it off with my fingers...i thought about that but i dont know mow much torque the rear end can handle. When i put the big arm on something, either it gives or everything its attached to gives lol.

[S4 Dan]

vice grips is always a great option... heat the bolt up, get the vice grips on there as tight as possible... die grind 2 sides flat if you have to, and that should help you break it loose

[KevinA41.8T]

get a 12 point 12mm i think or maybe 11mm socket and hammer it over thats what i use when i strip the centers

this is the best way I know of also. try this before you do more damage.

[sCeRaXn]

vice grips is always a great option... heat the bolt up, get the vice grips on there as tight as possible... die grind 2 sides flat if you have to, and that should help you break it loose

That was one of the first things i tried and had no luck. The vice grips just cant hold on with that much tq being applied. The more i look at that bolt, the more i think they used JB Weld as a thread locker. Ive been working on cars for around 10yrs now and ive never seen anything like this.

[sCeRaXn]

this is the best way I know of also. try this before you do more damage.

I dont think i can do more damage. The bolts are completely fubar'd and im going to pick some new ones up in a little bit. If i cant get it off im just going to take the air hammer to it and if i fuck up the driveshaft then i just wont get my $100 core charge, but atleast ill have the new one on there and be back on the road.

Im going to try hammering a socket on and see if that does the trick, but im pretty skeptical because my bolt extractors basically stripped down the outside if the bolt.

[JDM EJ1 95]

im glad i got my car all toghether without issues like this i still had a big scare


good luck on gettin it worked out.

[sCeRaXn]

Well it seems like whenever yours is down, mine is down right behind it. So im hoping that you getting your car back on the road will bring some good luck my way lol.

Hows your car running now? Is the oil leak completely gone?

[JDM EJ1 95]

yes sir its runnign good .. just a CEL for my cats cause i took my defouler out on my pass side downpipe and it was all stripped so i need to get a new one to get rid of the code.


just breakni in the clutch and making sure no more issues come up.. she pulls hard and is hittin 23psi on spike holding 20..

needless to say im happy about it and can not wait to run my 104 program

[sCeRaXn]

Hell yea...congrats man. Im hoping everything goes good with mine today. Situations like this make me realize how much i love the simplicity and amazing engineering of a Honda though lol

[JDM EJ1 95]

lol its not the amazing engineering or simplicity

its just with a honda you coudl care less if your missing 4 bolts on your trans.. or 15 clips holding in your interior.


thats the thing i miss the least is the absolute rattle box junk your driving when you drive a modded honda

[The_Jerbel]

If you absolutely can't get the bolts out, I would just cut the heads off, pull off the axle, and then use a vice grips to try and turn the bolt shafts out once there's no torque on them.

[JDM EJ1 95]

before you do that.. cut the sides of the bolts so you haev square sides and try with an open end

[sCeRaXn]

Im probably gonna end up breaking or cutting the heads off the bolt...most likely breaking because its hard to get a die grinder or air saw up in there. Id rather cut them but i could only get a little over half way through before i run out of room with the die grinder, so i might cut half way through and break the rest off with the air hammer. I just got back from getting new bolts and some coolant from Audi so im gonna go out there and mess with it some. Those ******s charged me $70 for 12 bolts and a gallon of g12!

[The_Jerbel]

That's a raping.

[JDM EJ1 95]

yea i deal with the same shit.


49 dollars for 2 quarts of powersteering fluid

no lube.

[sCeRaXn]

I mean it really is ridiculous. $41 for 12 bolts and $24 for a gallon of of coolant...i laughed in the dudes face when he told me the price. Unfortunately, they basically had me by the balls since i couldnt get either of these anywhere else. There were 2 brand new rs4's and an r8 up there, so atleast i had something to keep me entertained for the 20 minutes it took the guy to find the bolts lol.

Anyway, i finally got all the bolts out. I had to cut the heads off and pull the driveshaft then i was able to get 2 more bolts(which were now studs) out with alot of heat and vice grips, but the other 3 wouldnt budge. I ended up having to weld nuts on the end of the studs so i could break them loose with a breaker bar. I wish i had a camera so i could show you guys the insane amount of "thread locker" that they put on those little bastards. The whole bolt was literally covered in the stuff. As soon as i got them all out it started raining again, so i just gave up for the night. If everything goes right shell be back on the road tomorrow.

Now its time to get sloppy drunk with a few friends and some decently hot chicks(after a few drinks anyway). Theres no better way to blow off some steam than some good beer and the company of a few loose skanks lol.

[AudiTechS4]

just pound away on the skanks that always works for me

[Moe]

No threadlocker though.

[sCeRaXn]

Well i finally got her back together and running. Its been so long since ive driven it that i almost forgot what it was like. I havent gotten on it yet because im still breaking in the clutch, but she is boosting correctly and i dont have any codes....but most important is that damn shaking is gone. I still have some things to fix, but im just loving the fact that shes back on the road. The only thing thats really irritating me is that the pasenger side of the car is 3/16" higher than the drivers side. I guess the vogtlands didnt settle the same since it was parked in my backyard on very uneven ground. Hopefully itll settle a little more and even out...if not then ill just have to get those ecs(i think thats who makes them) coilovers that go over bilsteins.

Im about to order some spacers, rs4 grill, and m3 spoiler...and im getting it tinted asap. Im glad i can actually spend money on performance/cosmetic parts now instead of buying stock parts to fix it lol.

[HighDesertAudi]

When I pulled my engine I broke six craftsman 6mm allen sockets getting those bastards out.

[Reich]

It hapened to me the first time i removed the drive shaft on my car. I had to use a small pipe wrench, which is about 6'' long, and was able to grasp the allen head with it. Then i use a hammer to hit on the pipe wrench to loose the bolt. that was not easy. Had to replaced the bolt.