the diagnosing continues... Log inside

[bernB5]

Well, I replaced my ICM, and it solved my misfire problems. The plugs were pretty much shot and I still had some missfires, so I threw a fresh set of BKR7E's in with a .028 gap.

Last week, before the ICM took a shit, the car ran next to flawless. Part throttle driveability was a bit jerky at times, but nowheres near where it is now. The car can barely idle: Rpms will drop, i'll get one or two missfires, it will go rich and then the rpms jump back up and the car goes lean.

What is o2 sensor correction in block 001? Last time I logged the car I had 0's all across and tonight I was seeing negative numbers at times, as high as -25%.

The car runs well under WOT and full boost. Here's a log from tonight.
17psi. I also logged block 020, but had 0 timing pull anywhere in the rpm range.

Series 1 = MAF g/s
Series 2 = Throttle angle
Series 3 = Timing BTDC



can't take much more of this... losing my nerves, and my money.. about ready to call it quits for something reliable, I miss the feeling of enjoying driving. thoughts?

[k0mpresd]

fuel trims are block 032. check those.

g's look low. but arent you using a lightning maf?

[Don Supreme]

Well, I replaced my ICM, and it solved my misfire problems. The plugs were pretty much shot and I still had some missfires, so I threw a fresh set of BKR7E's in with a .028 gap.

Last week, before the ICM took a shit, the car ran next to flawless. Part throttle driveability was a bit jerky at times, but nowheres near where it is now. The car can barely idle: Rpms will drop, i'll get one or two missfires, it will go rich and then the rpms jump back up and the car goes lean.

What is o2 sensor correction in block 001? Last time I logged the car I had 0's all across and tonight I was seeing negative numbers at times, as high as -25%.

The car runs well under WOT and full boost. Here's a log from tonight.
17psi. I also logged block 020, but had 0 timing pull anywhere in the rpm range.

Series 1 = MAF g/s
Series 2 = Throttle angle
Series 3 = Timing BTDC



can't take much more of this... losing my nerves, and my money.. about ready to call it quits for something reliable, I miss the feeling of enjoying driving. thoughts?

Am I reading this right? 20+ degree advance all the way through the power band!...
thats a lot of timing, but I guess tapp knows his stuff.

Also are the maf reading a tad high for the 90mm maf?

[bernB5]

yeah 20 all the way through seems a bit high lol. this is on the pump 93 oct program.
and even with all that timing I'm not pulling anything. I guess at this point, what I'm most conserned with is the idle and part throttle driving. just doesn't feel right.

[bernB5]

also, just to add... yes, I'm using the ford lightning 4" maf mated to a 4" silicone 90 and 4" cone filter. are the readings high or low?

[A4Gasm]

you guys might as well be speaking german - what does this all mean?! GRAPHS? ACRONYMS? Too bad they didn't have any Audi electives when I was in school.

Bottom Line is I'm jealous. How do I learn this stuff?!

[audiness]

buy a vag-com and start playing around with it. Best Money you'll spend on your car.

[A4Gasm]

buy a vag-com and start playing around with it. Best Money you'll spend on your car.

so I've been told. duley noted...again. Kind of need a laptop first though

[bernB5]

or you could spend tons of money and time on a complicated german car and never really get to enjoy it.. but, then you'd be cool and know mad info like us lol

[k0mpresd]

so what does 032 say?

[bernB5]

I'll go do a log of 032 in part throttle right now. Anything else while I'm out there?

does anyone think this could have something to do with the new ICM? I bought it from autohaus. It's the Meyle/Huco one.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ntrol%20Module

[k0mpresd]

you dont have to log. just check it with the key on. its long term fuel trims. it will show what the ecu pulls out (or adds in) over the course of you driving the car. 001 shows immediate fuel trims i think.

[bernB5]

you dont have to log. just check it with the key on. its long term fuel trims. it will show what the ecu pulls out (or adds in) over the course of you driving the car. 001 shows immediate fuel trims i think.

go on aim dude!

o2 sensor val @ idle = 13.3% and o2 sensor val @ part ld = 3.9%

how do i log duty cycle of each injector? This seems like a fueling issue. Just so weird that the only things that have changed since the ICM went are a new ICM and new plugs... Thats it! the car was running perfectly before.

[k0mpresd]

im at work. and aim on the phone is eh at best. :(

ill hit you up when i get home.

[k0mpresd]

you got any vacuum leaks? its adding a bunch of fuel in at idle. thats not a negative # by chance is it?

[Don Supreme]

Yeah, thats pretty High enrichment for idle... Something is very wrong.

Is extra COMINGv(no leaking out, but in) into the system post maf

[bernB5]

I'll go look for a vac leak now, but I'm pretty sure I don't have one.
As for the MAF setup, it's perfect.

[k0mpresd]

post maf is any air leak after the maf. evap hoses (but i think you took all that stuff off). random broken check valves. other random vacuum leaks. intake gasket leaking. ect. doesnt just mean post maf and pre turbo.

[bernB5]

i took all the evap stuff off. The N80 valve is plugged.
I found one leak just now, the tube coming from my ic pipe to mbc had a small tear in it.. I replaced it and the problem is still there.
btw, I made an error... Those numbers are negative.
-13.3% and -3.9%, even after fixing the vac leak. From the looks of it, everything else is solid and sealed.
What block is injector duty cycle? This way I could see if perhaps my fp has a leak in the tank or something.

When I first start the car it idles fine, between 14 and 15. The second I start driving it idles very lean, bouncing from 17 to 19, then to 10, then back to lean and so on. While driving part throttle it does almost the same thing. Randomly will be fine around 14:1 then out of nowhere goes lean and the car bogs. Full throttle it's perfect.

[bernB5]

ok. checked the fuel pump, all is well down there.

I'm missing one bolt from my compressor housing, but those are just there to loosen it, all the others are tight, so i don't see that being a leak. I'll get a new bolt in a bit.
I'm just about out of ideas though. Would a video help you guys?

[Don Supreme]

Did you reset the ecu?

P.S. Thats a big mistake you made....

negative numbers mean you are running rich and the computer is trying to take away some of that fuel..... reset the ecu and see if it works OK for a little bit..... going back to the maf readings being high, if they are still high @ idle then it would try to put in more fuel hence rich...

Just random thoughts.

[bernB5]

at idle my maf g/s are around 2.25. Numbers have changed with the recent fix in the vac leak. now it's -9.3% and -3.9%. What kind of numbers am I aiming for? as close to 0 as possible i guess.

As for resetting the ECU I've cleared my two codes (max engine speed exceeded and evap system malfunction) and the car still acts the same... I have a feeling my ICM is just faulty or something. That's the only thing that's changed. The car never had issues like this. Tomorrow I'll swap it out for one that I know works.

[317ssayzarc]

why does everyones tapp tune work but mine?

gl bernie

[bernB5]

dudeski... if you classify the issues i'm going through as "working" your shit must be REAL fucked up.. I can barely drive the car.
Hopefully it's a hardware issue.. I'm still worried about my timing though.. Weird that at 18psi I'm still not getting any pull. I should definitely check my EGT's though. 20* is alot throughout the powerband, with this much boost, in this weather, on pump gas.
thanks for the good wishes jake, I still think we have more problems than everyone on the board though lol.

[bernB5]

well, no matter what I do, the car still acts the same. I put another ICM in today and it did nothing.
capped off my bov to stop a potential leak at idle or part throttle, no luck.

the plugs are new. the coilpacks are fine. the icm is good. the car has no vac leaks.
the maf is on and working correctly.

at this point I'm thinking it's the tune :( just don't understand how the car was performing much better a few weeks ago.

[317ssayzarc]

whats your exact idle issues? my car idles nice...

[bernB5]

I'm going to take a video to show everyone what's going on. come back in 10 minutes

[bernB5]

here's the idle

[317ssayzarc]

hmmm... log the misfire count... im thinking vac leak man

[Don Supreme]

Thats nasty........ Have you tried messing with your maf for a little? For example take that bend out, replace it with something else.... You don't have to drive the car, just see if it will idle right.

I know you say it USED TO WORK FINE, but sometimes MAFs done like sharp bends too soon before or after the maf housing.

[Don Supreme]

hmmm... log the misfire count... im thinking vac leak man

It really does seems like a leak...

[bernB5]

i've looked everywhere for a leak. I'll continue the search tomorrow.
I don't have any other way to hook up the maf, it was on a bend originally, just a cobra 4" instead of a straight like it is now.

Tomorrow I will do a full pressure test right from the charge pipe and we'll see how it goes. I'm also going to pull the rail and prime the pump to see if perhaps one of my injectors is stuck open.

[bernB5]

ps- even if there is a vac leak, I can't be THAT bad, considering I'm hitting full boost around 43-4000. just a short 2nd gear shakey bad video.. but you can see how the spool is

[Don Supreme]

The cobra doesn't have a 90 bend like that, it has a much smoother transition. I would start there.

Try the cobra if you still have it.

[317ssayzarc]

well a vac leak would affect idle much more since vac/suction is high... you are moving such little air velocity thru that maf that even a small leak can be real bad

[bernB5]

the cobra had a leak in it post maf to begin with, I understand your logic, but it's definitely not the issue here. I ran a 90* inlet on my last three turbo/maf using cars.

we'll see what tomorrow brings. until then, thank you guys for all the great help, seriously, I don't know where I'd be without this forum.

[bernB5]

well... another day gone and still, the same problem.

did a pressure test today, found some minor leaks around the IC pipes and FPR lines, only ones that really started to show after 10psi, so nothing major. Fixed them all.

Then, my buddy grabbed a bottle of soapy water and realized the injector bungs in the intake manifold are leaking. All four of them. So, guess I'll keep an eye out for a spare AEB intake mani.. Even still, I don't think this is the MAIN problem... contributing? maybe so.

I took the plugs out and closed to gap down to .024 instead of .028, no difference.
Then, just for the hell of it, I put my old inlet on... still no difference.

Tomorrow, the very last step will be to swap in another o2 sensor. If that doesn't work then this lies in the tuning, hopefully that can be resolved; already sent an email to Chriss Tapp.

[t1demont1]

nvm

[Poopie]

if you keep resetting the ecu then your idle will continue to be bad. You have to drive around a bit and see if your idle smooths out.

[bernB5]

while my idle is part of the problem, it is just showing a bigger problem.
the same problems i have at idle (few missfires, lean/rich spikes, dropping rpms) I also experience at part throttle driving... I have reset the ecu a few times, other time's I've driven up to 30 miles without even a slight change.
I understand the needs of the ecu to adapt, this is a different situation. Hopefully I'll get to the bottom of it.