Boost Controller HELPPP

[Arthurszpr]

I had a turboxs boost controller on my car and had received the Forge one in today. I installed it and went out for a test run it had hit 20 pounds firs gear , second gear it hit 20 and drop drastically to 5 lbs. and thrid gear it was at 5 lbs. Does anyone know what the problem might be....The Forge faulty?

wjhat is the best manual boost controller for our cars thank u

[INTEGRATION]

LOL. Looks like you might have a pretty BIG problem on your hands.

Edit: ok so I might feel a little bit bad for you but I'll give you a hint. It sounds like a boost leak.

[eMacPaul]

Do you have an upgraded diverter valve? Maybe the OEM one failed.

[viperdsa]

Ya, i'd check the hoses and make sure everything is still where it should be.

[Sanjman]

Do you have an upgraded diverter valve? Maybe the OEM one failed.

did you even read the original post before you replied?

also... isn't the TurboXS bypass valve only made for the 1.8T setups??

and yes you probably have a leak

[Quattro]

boost leak

[jayuuey]

i thought our engines weren't incompatible with boost controllers?

[Quattro]

^I thought I read that somewhere as well

[Doctor]

Boost Controller on a tfsi...?

[Slo.Mo.Shun.]

I tried it once, but I could only get 15psi, when I reconnected the N75 21psi.

[Zebman]

Boost controllers don't work. If they did work, chips would not be necessary.

[Sanjman]

Some people confuse the diverter valve with a boost controller... I think he may be talking about the DV.

Here is something I found from AW.CA written by Mike@Forge:

The bypass valve of any forced induction application must always have a intake manifold pressure reference. You should NEVER reference the bypass valve from the turbo outlet nipple nor from the intercooler piping at any point before the throttle body.

With that said, if the boost controller and bypass valve share the same reference from the intake manifold, you can figure that they are essentially sharing the same volume of air (pressure/vacuum).

When the boost controller (lock-ball-and-spring type) actuates, meaning when the spring allows the ball to come off of it's seat and send the pressure signal to the actuator or external wastegate, some of the "shared" pressure helping to hold the bypass/blow-off valve closed under boost is now momentarily diverted to the actuator or wastegate potentially causing a "flutter" in the seal surface of the bypass valve and a slight loss of boost pressure altogether within the system.

When the boost controller and bypass valve each have their own individual reference from the intake manifold, the possibility for this flutter is greatly decreased, however, it may still exist to some extent because both references are still sharing a given volume of intake manifold pressure.


It is always highly recommend to ensure that any boost controller is referenced from the turbo outlet nipple where available, or from the intercooler piping before the throttle body if no turbo outlet nipple exists.


This is also important in that the boost controller only ever needs to see a positive pressure reference, and never vacuum.


Boost Controller
Positive Pressure Only
(Turbo Outlet)

Bypass/Blow-Off Valve
Positive Pressure AND Vacuum
(Intake Manifold)

[Arthurszpr]

no i routed a boost controller off the DV valve

[Mike@APR]

I had a turboxs boost controller on my car and had received the Forge one in today. I installed it and went out for a test run it had hit 20 pounds firs gear , second gear it hit 20 and drop drastically to 5 lbs. and thrid gear it was at 5 lbs. Does anyone know what the problem might be....The Forge faulty?

wjhat is the best manual boost controller for our cars thank u

Have you considered that you might be throwing the car into "limp" mode due to an overboost condition? The ECU will request a certain amount of manifold pressure based on the tuning (in this case factory Audi tuning) and will monitor the manifold pressure sensor to ensure that the hardware is delivering what the software is asking for. If you deviate from this request too much with excessive amounts of boost above the requested value, the car will go into limp mode to protect the engine based on the factory settings. The only true cure for this is in the software (unless you do something to fool the MAP sensor which I don't recommend for several reasons).

One way to tell if you are going into limp mode is to check the ECU for trouble codes using a Vag-Com tool. You will see something like "boost limit exceeded" in the engine control module fault code memory. Another way to tell if you are going into limp mode is to turn the car off after you hit the 5 psi wall. After you restart the car, is all normal again? Then hit the throttle to build boost again to see if the car pulls the boost out again back down to the 5 psi level.

OR, you could just get your car flashed at your nearest APR dealer and have the power without all of the headaches :-)