crate engine

[willowtreexx]

just wondering where the best place to buy a crate engine would be?

i was able to figure out that my problem was engine sludge that toasted my motor and oil pump. the owner before obviously negleted the car and im paying the price.

Im expecting to pay about $5000 for the new motor just want to get it to my house FAAST so i can dump the new one in and take the car to school in 2 weeks.

no way am i driving that honda accord anymore!

[CycloSteve]

Check out EuroSpec:

http://www.eurospecsport.com/engine20t.htm

Considering them when my 2.8 needs replacement. Seem to build the motors with all of the right internal upgrades.

[audiluxary]

Your crazy brother, didn't you put like $8000 into this car already? Now you plan on spending $5000 for a new engine? You might as well get rid of it and get another car. If you are set on keeping this car then look around I have seen engines for a lot cheaper than $5000. Are you looking for new or used?

[klausc]

For just a little bit more than the cost of a new engine, you could have the entire 2000 A4:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/car/769484842.html

You could pick it up on your way to school :)

[willowtreexx]

Your crazy brother, didn't you put like $8000 into this car already? Now you plan on spending $5000 for a new engine? You might as well get rid of it and get another car. If you are set on keeping this car then look around I have seen engines for a lot cheaper than $5000. Are you looking for new or used?

ha well i put $5500 into it and spent $2000 on the car. I already wanted to sell it but im still under my dads payroll for college if you know what i mean i wanted to get rid of it and just spend $5000 on a used Chevy Tahoe just to get me through my last two years in college and maybe a year after i land my job and get my through my winters in minnesota, chicago and iowa. but the old man doesnt like the idea of getting a new car. so now im stuck with putting in the new motor. He already said hed pay for it so thats the only plus side i guess.

like you said it doesnt make sense and its crazy...

[boostedup]

for 5000 you could probably find a used motor and used turbo setup.....put it in all at once..

[mike-2ptzero]

Check out EuroSpec:

http://www.eurospecsport.com/engine20t.htm

Considering them when my 2.8 needs replacement. Seem to build the motors with all of the right internal upgrades.

I wouldn't run one of their motors if it was given to me for free.



A short block can be built for under $3000 which would include stuff like scat rods and JE pistons, built to 1.8-2.0 liter.

[djwimbo]

Dude, I bought my car for $3800.

I'll sell you mine for $5K, just let me swap over my turbo, exhaust and center diff. Maybe a couple other things too.

[Siena]

Dude, I bought my car for $3800.

I'll sell you mine for $5K, just let me swap over my turbo, exhaust and center diff. Maybe a couple other things too.

A pretty good offer, if you ask me!

[CycloSteve]

I wouldn't run one of their motors if it was given to me for free.

So, Mike, is their product s*** or just the price is a bit too much to swallow?

The OP was looking for something ready to ship off the shelf, and "new". Waiting for a shop to build them a motor did not sound like an option in their situation (ie the two weeks before school thing). I agree it can be done for less, but not on their timeline.

[willowtreexx]

Dude, I bought my car for $3800.

I'll sell you mine for $5K, just let me swap over my turbo, exhaust and center diff. Maybe a couple other things too.

I might take you up on it. can you give me some details and pics?

[email protected]

yeah model is stuff like that and mods that you would be leaving

[ILoveT]

Shit, I'll sell you my engine for $5000. LOLERSKATES

[Das General]

Shit I'll sell you my A6 for 5k

[Seerlah]

There is an individual on this forum board whom can sell you fully built 2.0 for less than $5,000. That is with a built bottom end and head (you could add cams if you so chose at the price of the cams, I suppose the price is).

$4767 for a fully built 2.0 liter bottom end with a built 8500 rpm head with alloy valves, valve springs and retainers. Subtract $350 if you want a 1.8-1.9 liter bottom end on that build and subtract $1286 if you just want a rebuilt stock spec head.

Prices do not include after market cams or shipping.

I plan on going this route when/if I go BAT. I figure use my engine for what it is worth while I build up money for it. Plus I have some goodies on it to keep me content for the while.

You have some options, so decide what route you want to take.

[djwimbo]

A pretty good offer, if you ask me!

I sent him an email with everything wrong w/ my car, I doubt he'd still be interested.

Who's the dude building 2.0L's for $4800? That seems like a decent deal considering the price tag I added up just looking at a rebuild.

[4A Play]

Or you could hit Craigslist or local junkyards for a used 2.8 with around 100k on it and passes compression tests. That would be about $300 and last you 3 years for sure.

[djwimbo]

Or you could hit Craigslist or local junkyards for a used 2.8 with around 100k on it and passes compression tests. That would be about $300 and last you 3 years for sure.

He has a 1.8, why would he go pick up a 2.8?

Otherwise you could call Shokan, and get Effed in the A b/c they're over priced.

[4A Play]

He has a 1.8, why would he go pick up a 2.8?

Otherwise you could call Shokan, and get Effed in the A b/c they're over priced.

Uh because he isnt looking to upgrade his Audi, its more reliable, and because it would save his dad about $4700 dollars. My bad, I was just trying to suggest the most logical solution.

Saving his pops money, getting a more reliable motor, and no worries about boost leaks, blown turbos, or sludge build up 24/7. Just my .02

[djwimbo]

Uh because he isnt looking to upgrade his Audi, its more reliable, and because it would save his dad about $4700 dollars. My bad, I was just trying to suggest the most logical solution.

Saving his pops money, getting a more reliable motor, and no worries about boost leaks, blown turbos, or sludge build up 24/7. Just my .02

I understand saving money, but his car has a 1.8T stock. Replacing it with a 2.8 wouldn't cost $300. Unless you're talking about buying a completely different car, one that has a 2.8. That wouldn't cost $300 either.

Reliable? I've put on 16K+ since Nov. w/o any serious issues. Sludge? Buy one that's been taken care of and you won't have issues.

[willowtreexx]

Yeah im still looking to keep a 1.8 and if i get one built i take care of my cars like crazy and hate when people abuse them and dont do general maintence. I wash mine 3 times a week and wax it every other and vaccume the inside once a week and do my oilchanges every 2000 miles. so im kinda hesitant to get a used once since i dont know how the previous owner took care of it, hence what happend to me already. :( so i f i can find that guy to build me a 2.0 fully built ill more than likely go down that route or just get a built 1.8 and that will be just fine for a few years. a 2.0 with a bigger turbo than the K03 would be kinda fun

im just trying to weigh my options here and see the costs for each.

Ive never worked with a turbo car before so im trying to learn everything i can in about a 2 days span here and its alot to absorb. If i go with a bigger turbo, i have to learn what types there are and what each one takes to mod the engine so it would work and then the pros and cons of each one and find what im happy with.

I did just get an offer from my friend to take my entire car for $3000 as well.

[matt719]

I did just get an offer from my friend to take my entire car for $3000 as well.

That would leave you about $4500 in the hole. Here's what I'm thinking... most people here would KILL to me in your situation. You could have a big turbo car mostly paid for by your pops for no cost to you other than your labor.. with a brand new fully built engine. But you want to sell this car? You should take this amazing car and run with it! A 2000 body with a brand new engine and lots of other new parts will last forever! My '97 is in better shape than either of my parents newer cars. This car will get you far past college. I'm a sophomore and I've had my A4 since I was 16. I'm going to keep it in good shape and running smoothly until I'm out of college and have a job that will afford me a new car. Then I plan to turn my A4 into a project car.

Don't get me wrong, I completely understand your frustration with the situation, but try to look at what happened as a positive thing!

[willowtreexx]

That would leave you about $4500 in the hole. Here's what I'm thinking... most people here would KILL to me in your situation. You could have a big turbo car mostly paid for by your pops for no cost to you other than your labor.. with a brand new fully built engine. But you want to sell this car? You should take this amazing car and run with it! A 2000 body with a brand new engine and lots of other new parts will last forever! My '97 is in better shape than either of my parents newer cars. This car will get you far past college. I'm a sophomore and I've had my A4 since I was 16. I'm going to keep it in good shape and running smoothly until I'm out of college and have a job that will afford me a new car. Then I plan to turn my A4 into a project car.

Don't get me wrong, I completely understand your frustration with the situation, but try to look at what happened as a positive thing!

yeah ive kinda come to the same conclusion. I honestly loooove this car, i did everything i wanted from rims to coilovers and brakes. Im just lucky my dad feels bad seeing how much work i put in and then having it turn sour on my 3 days later. I read this article http://www.audiforums.com/m_816714/tm.htm and think that i could possible go with a GT28RS turbo but im still learning about all of them and what i will need to do to make each one work. unfortuntely i have one downside. I have an Auto/tip trans. I figured that if i did get this car running (which my goal is to now do) then i will for sure keep the car a long time. I have no rust on it and the body panels are perfect. Cars in great shape. I was only sayin i would keep the tahoe for a few years cause more than likely i would buy one with lots of miles on it. but I do have 120,200 miles on this A4 right now, but like you said, its in great shape and with a new engine it will be a new car again!!

My big hurdle now is trying to figure out how to hook up all this stuff from the VR6 MAF that i will have to get to the elim setup and things like that. Im again not too sure what all it means just yet but im learning fast. I am the type where i do it all myself but i might need some help from someone who has done this before. I dont want to get raped at a shop cause i want to do it to learn and have hands on. Im going to make the most of this.

im also trying to figure out how long all this will take me. I plan to have the motor out by tuesday morning since im at the lake house doing a project with the old man.

also if anyone has any insight on alternative and options along with what turbos to use and stuff please let me know. I need all the information and knowlege i can get at this point.

[matt719]

If I were you I'd go with something relatively out of the box. Do a setup that gives enough power to be worth the money and so that you won't crave more, but also do something that will be reliable.. something that won't destroy your new longblock. I like the idea of the eliminator for that reason.

The thing I've realized with my car is that the control arms will go, the coolant hoses will become brittle and break, the brake lines will need replacing, but my 12 year old paint still looks like new, and I don't have any rust on my car (impressive for New England). One of the coolest things, in my opinion anyways, about the B5 platform is how timeless it is. My car is 12 years old, but to me, it looks and feels like a new car.

[Seerlah]

Since you will have the motor out, you can decide from there. If you are purchasing a built motor, then I would at least go GT2871r. And if not, I would build the bottom end while the engine was out. Might as well, right? Learn something along the way too. And yes, it is safe to run that turbo on a tip. It has been done many times and there is a user on this forum board whom has the GT2871r eliminator set up on his vehicle (but he may have done some modificationto the transmission. not too sure). The reason many go gt28rs and not the gt2871r or greater is because they don't want to chance the opportunity of a throwing out rods. Plus building a motor is not cheap, unless you can wrench. Which in this case you can. So, I'd go for it. If you don't have the Bentley manual, you could use this for procedures and ask users on this board in assistance.

The rods on our cars are good up to 400chp and the pistons up to 600chp. But there was a user whom recommended that to do rods if ever exceedeing 350chp, just for safety measure. The GT28rs is rated at 350 chp and the gt2871r is rated at 400chp (with supporting mods).

Read this write up

[willowtreexx]

so i started tearing out the motor today and here are some pics. I have both sides completely free in the engine and all i have to do tomorrow is unbolt it from the tans and what not and get the engine hoist on it. now i know alot of you guys are going to be dissapointed but i decided right now that im just going to do a motor rebuild and then get a unitronics tuning with a K04 turbo. Ill put some 440cc injectors with a 3bar fpr and then a HFC and i should be good. Its going the cheaper way right now but still getting a bit more power.

ive got two sets of rims and two bumpers and two fenders all laying around, if anyone needs anything let me know, and i think ill have a turbo(if good) right now it doenst have any shaft play and spind freely, and a brand new OE dp with flex tube, and some other stuff...

[fikes]

wow look at that sludge buildup in the turbo. Someone before you could care less what condition their car was in.

[willowtreexx]

wow look at that sludge buildup in the turbo. Someone before you could care less what condition their car was in.

no kidding, you should see the car when i first got it
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=223114

thats the link of when the project ive been working on... i was never expecting it to be sludged up and ruin the motor, but lesson learned.

now im just trying to find a good and cheap place to fine a K04, and then wondering if i should run the GIAC pc-16 file with it?

and NO IM NOT GOING TO EBAY FOR A SHITTY k04

[bassed]

So, Mike, is their product s*** or just the price is a bit too much to swallow?

The OP was looking for something ready to ship off the shelf, and "new". Waiting for a shop to build them a motor did not sound like an option in their situation (ie the two weeks before school thing). I agree it can be done for less, but not on their timeline.

Eurospec just doesn't have the best reputation and track record in the community.

[Nebone]

Well, considering that the car sat neglected for that long, the engine might be the beginning of all the issues the car might have. Transmission could be next for sure, then suspension then...use the parts you bought and transfer them to DJs car if you decide to buy it.

[TQMB5]

Well, considering that the car sat neglected for that long, the engine might be the beginning of all the issues the car might have. Transmission could be next for sure, then suspension then...use the parts you bought and transfer them to DJs car if you decide to buy it.

hey already has coils, You just need to calm down a bit and take a step back to decide what you want to do. have you take the head off yet? if i had a extra car to drive like you do, i would see if the block is ok, get it bored to 83mm and order some pistons. get the head rebuilt and upgraded. Bring it to a shop and have them balence it. then take that extra money you where going to spend and upgrade to a full size turbo. with a balanced engine and built head, i would throw a 30r on and custom tune. Rev that bitch to 8500rpm all day

[mike-2ptzero]

no kidding, you should see the car when i first got it
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=223114

thats the link of when the project ive been working on... i was never expecting it to be sludged up and ruin the motor, but lesson learned.

now im just trying to find a good and cheap place to fine a K04, and then wondering if i should run the GIAC pc-16 file with it?

and NO IM NOT GOING TO EBAY FOR A SHITTY k04

You are a 2000 so you cant use a PC-16, you would need the K05 file for the 2000 but not sure if works in the 018Q ecu found in the Tip. The ecu's for the tip and manual for the 2000 were not switchable. Pretty much the only year of the B5 that the manual could not be used on a tip and the tip could not be used in the manual.

[m5racer]

since your fully building the motor something bigger then a K04 might be a good idea. First off the K04 is great for reilability on a stock engine. But if your building your engine why not put a bigger turbo on it? You wont have to worry about if your engine can take it or not beucase its going be new/built so it will last for years to come. Also the k04 is going to leave you wanting more 2 weeks after you put it into the car ( k04 setups only run about 30 more wheel Hp then a chipped/exhaust k03 so why bother. I say do a smaller BT like a gt28r or 2871 and have it tuned properly (maby be conservative and run only moderate boost levels or have a conseravtive tune). I say if the motor is built, putting a baby k04 is just a waste of money beucase for the same price (buing a new k04) you could get a Gt setup instead. Ko4's are a waste espeically on a built platform. BT or nothing (jsut beucase it will be built)