$250 for 1 xenon bulb, really?!??!

[jbrown7815]

Ok so I am getting dipped headlight error in my 2003.


Went to dealer to see which bulb and how much it would be.


It is the right side xenon, and they priced it at $250, and then one hour of labor.


Hell no, lol.


Let me confirm though, is the D1S 120v 35w the right bulb for me?


I thought those were BI xenons, but I have halogen high beams.

Someone educate me please.

Edit:


Also I see I can get them much cheaper on Ebay, should I?

[AE Performance]

Bixenons use the same exact bulbs as the standard xenons. That is the correct bulb that they gave you. I can get you a set of bulbs for much cheaper than that if you'd like. Shoot me a PM. Theyre also VERY easy to change yourself.

[jbrown7815]

YHPM

[mattman]

bi-xenons doesn't mean you have xenon highbeams. you still have halogen highbeams, but the projector lens on the bi-xenon is noticably larger than single xenons.

DO NOT PAY someone to change it for you....its such a simple job. probably will take you 30 minutes maximum the first time you do it.

[jbrown7815]

Thank you for response.

AZ FTW

[AE Performance]

Yup, exactly. Bixenons only difference is the larger projector and a flap inside (the cutoff pattern plate) that flips down to give you high-beam light coverage through the same projector.

[AE Performance]

YHPM

replied with more info...

[Tgr_Clw]

bi-xenons doesn't mean you have xenon highbeams. you still have halogen highbeams, but the projector lens on the bi-xenon is noticably larger than single xenons.

Actually that's exactly what that means. A bi-xenon setup does have xenon highbeams (in addition to the halogen ones).

[jbrown7815]

I'm just hoping this is the problem, being "dipped headlights"


No one seems to have the same answer or fix for it. =\

[mattman]

Actually that's exactly what that means. A bi-xenon setup does have xenon highbeams (in addition to the halogen ones).

i have never seen xenon highbeams on an a4 i must be missing something. i thought only the lens was different.

[AE Performance]

Actually that's exactly what that means. A bi-xenon setup does have xenon highbeams (in addition to the halogen ones).

I like to refer to bixenons as light cannons. If someone flashed me when I had bixenon ecodes in my B6, and i flipped on the bixenons, I'm pretty sure they were briefly blinded by their brightness.

[mattman]

Link to guide on replacing bulbs?

I'm just hoping this is the problem, being "dipped headlights"


No one seems to have the same answer or fix for it. =\

try spraying some electrical contact cleaner on the connection before you actually buy a new bulb; i've herd they corrode easily and that sometimes gives you the error.

[audipotential]

i have never seen xenon highbeams on an a4 i must be missing something. i thought only the lens was different.

You are a tool Matt. Go back to pouring coffee.






JK

[mattman]

You are a tool Matt. Go back to pouring coffee.






JK

broski....don't start lol

[jbrown7815]

try spraying some electrical contact cleaner on the connection before you actually buy a new bulb; i've herd they corrode easily and that sometimes gives you the error.

Yeah this seems like a great idea.





I guess I'm gonna have to find the torx wrench for this job, as I have none.

[AE Performance]

i have never seen xenon highbeams on an a4 i must be missing something. i thought only the lens was different.

You might just be confused. The actual high beam bulb location and bulb on bixenons is an H7 just like any other B6 headlight, however, the Projector is larger and has a cutoff pattern that flips down when you flip on your highbeams IN ADDITION to the standard H7 bulb lighting up on top of that. So you get the benefits of the standard highbeam bulbs lighting up the road, plus the projector giving you extra light coverage too. The name Bi-Xenon is sort of deceiving because theres actually not 2 xenon bulbs.. but rather 1 bulb acting as a low beam and high beam with the flip of the stalk.

[mattman]

Yup, exactly. Bixenons only difference is the larger projector and a flap inside (the cutoff pattern plate) that flips down to give you high-beam light coverage through the same projector.

....so the highbeam is shared with the xenon projector of the lowbeam.....?
so....where the highbeam is...there's still a halogen housing, right?

[CO AVANT]

Is the bulb not working anymore or are you just getting a dipped headlight code? Are they mechanically leveled left to right using the allen screws on them? Have you checked the auto level procedure through vag-com?

To replace the xenon you need to take your headlight out (4 torx bolts). Then take out the small torx screws holding the back of the headlight cover on. Once off you will see the back of the xenon housing. Pull any necessary electrical plugs on the connector. Then take out the screws holding the xenon housing in place. I think they are torx bits too if I remember correctly. When you are putting in a new xenon bulb NEVER let it touch your finger since it will transfer oil from your fingers to the bulb. This can cause the bulb to not even fire or fail prematurely.

The highbeam halogen has its own housing. The xenon bulb has its own housing. The xenon bulb on bixenons aims upward at the same level as the halogen high beam when the high beam is turned on. Once you turn the high beam off the xenon flap brings it down to the normal low light beam level on the road.

[mattman]

You might just be confused. The actual high beam bulb location and bulb on bixenons is an H7 just like any other B6 headlight, however, the Projector is larger and has a cutoff pattern that flips down when you flip on your highbeams IN ADDITION to the standard H7 bulb lighting up on top of that. So you get the benefits of the standard highbeam bulbs lighting up the road, plus the projector giving you extra light coverage too. The name Bi-Xenon is sort of deceiving because theres actually not 2 xenon bulbs.. but rather 1 bulb acting as a low beam and high beam with the flip of the stalk.

ok that makes sense........glad i'm not just blind. thanks! haha

[jbrown7815]

Is the bulb not working anymore or are you just getting a dipped headlight code? Are they mechanically leveled left to right using the allen screws on them? Have you checked the auto level procedure through vag-com?

To replace the xenon you need to take your headlight out (4 torx bolts). Then take out the small torx screws holding the back of the headlight cover on. Once off you will see the back of the xenon housing. Pull any necessary electrical plugs on the connector. Then take out the screws holding the xenon housing in place. I think they are torx bits too if I remember correctly. When you are putting in a new xenon bulb NEVER let it touch your finger since it will transfer oil from your fingers to the bulb. This can cause the bulb to not even fire or fail prematurely.

At first hitting bumps would cause it to come off and on, now it just doesn't come on anymore.

Great info again

[jbrown7815]

Well I'm off to buy a torx bit set :D

Seriously guys, you all helped a ton! Thanks a bunch!!

[mattman]

Well I'm off to buy a torx bit set :D

Seriously guys, you all helped a ton! Thanks a bunch!!

and don't forget contact cleaner!

and don't forget to bring a towel.....

[CO AVANT]

Make sure the electrical connection to the back of the headlight is secured in place really good. I had one that I connected to find out it wasn't seated perfect, which caused my right xenon bulb to not fire.

[CO AVANT]

Well I'm off to buy a torx bit set :D

Seriously guys, you all helped a ton! Thanks a bunch!!

make sure you have a long enough extension to get to the back torx bolt by the air box

[AE Performance]

make sure you have a long enough extension to get to the back torx bolt by the air box

Yea, definitely invest in a set of the bits and a thin extension as opposed to torx screwdrivers. Lots of parts on audis are torx bits, so its not a bad thing to have around.

[04QuattroTurbo]

The key word in the OP is the dealer...I'm beginning to see the Audi dealership's service may not be exactly on the up and up. You ask for something special, they are probably unaware or unconcerned about forums like this one in which we can compare notes. Maybe they are hoping, we won't. But they will try to get all sorts of things past you, of course, I was quoted $200 to change out a fuel filter, which after seeing the DIY, is really not that hard. Bad, AoA, bad.

[AE Performance]

The key word in the OP is the dealer...I'm beginning to see the Audi dealership's service may not be exactly on the up and up. You ask for something special, they are probably unaware or unconcerned about forums like this one in which we can compare notes. Maybe they are hoping, we won't. But they will try to get all sorts of things past you, of course, I was quoted $200 to change out a fuel filter, which after seeing the DIY, is really not that hard. Bad, AoA, bad.

Its not even AoA, its just dealerships from any car maker in general. Hence the name, 'stealerships'. :D

[04QuattroTurbo]

Its not even AoA, its just dealerships from any car maker in general. Hence the name, 'stealerships'. :D

I guess...they are after all the bastion of true capitalism, if the market will bear it, why the heck not?

[AE Performance]

I guess...they are after all the bastion of true capitalism, if the market will bear it, why the heck not?

True. I suppose so. You cant really blame them though if people are willing to pay instead of DIY. Most people just dont know better though, as you said.

[jbrown7815]

I'm back. Got the torx key set, but no extender. I just went to the BX on base, and I also forgot contact cleaner.


It's too hot right now anyways to work on car.

I did try and mess with it some.


I took 2 torx bolts out, but the headlight still wouldn't come out. I'm guessing I need to get the one in the back :)

[CO AVANT]

I'm back. Got the torx key set, but no extender. I just went to the BX on base, and I also forgot contact cleaner.


It's too hot right now anyways to work on car.

I did try and mess with it some.


I took 2 torx bolts out, but the headlight still wouldn't come out. I'm guessing I need to get the one in the back :)

2 on the top of the assembly and 2 in the back. One by the turbo inlet pipe and one by the air box (both on the bottom)

[kpatz]

I've used a medium-tipped flat blade screwdriver to loosen the back bolts on the headlights. Everytime I use a torx bit in there it falls off and then I have to find/retrieve it.

[jbrown7815]

2 on the top of the assembly and 2 in the back. One by the turbo inlet pipe and one by the air box (both on the bottom)

I can do this from above though right?

[AE Performance]

I've used a medium-tipped flat blade screwdriver to loosen the back bolts on the headlights. Everytime I use a torx bit in there it falls off and then I have to find/retrieve it.

Thats weird, I've never had a torx bit fall off on the back ones before Theyre pretty easy to see/get to with the right extension. I suppose a long screwdriver would probably work too though if it were the right size to fit in.

[CO AVANT]

I can do this from above though right?

yes. If you are using torx bits sockets it won't fall out. If you are using just the little screw driver bits then make sure your extension is magnetic inside the holding point. This way the bit will not fall out.

[dougyfresh]

You do not have to take the back two bolts completely out. Just loosen them up and then you can slide the headlights forward. The back two lower tabs have a slot in it.

After the 3rd time I removed my headlights I found this out. Never have I lost a bolt since.


To recap:
1) Two torx bolts up top on the core support come completely out. (can access from up top)
2) Two torx bolts on the bottom in the back get loosened up a few turns. (can access from up top)
3) Headlight housing slides forward. Note the two clips under the headlight housing that is slides into. This is what holds the front of the headlight down underneath. It slides into two slots in that tray that contains the rear two lower torx bolts.

Enjoy!

[CO AVANT]

yes I never take my rear two bolts completely out. It is much easier to install the headlight again with those back to bolt screwed in a couple threads like Doug mentions.

[dougyfresh]

And if you go messing with that bracket the two rear bolts and front clips are attached too... Be prepared to not have your headlights at the proper height.

I've found that bracket (which is not required to be touched if just removing the headlights) should be centered radially (err.. up and down. I'm so used to talking in rotating engine references "radially" "axially" "tangentially". forgive me). That provides the best location to align the headlight once installed. Again, this bracket should not be touched if one just removing the headlights.

Sorry for the TMI (too much information)

[jbrown7815]

Thanks for info Doug, cool MB Blog too :)

And if you go messing with that bracket the two rear bolts and front clips are attached too... Be prepared to not have your headlights at the proper height.

I've found that bracket (which is not required to be touched if just removing the headlights) should be centered radially (err.. up and down. I'm so used to talking in rotating engine references "radially" "axially" "tangentially". forgive me). That provides the best location to align the headlight once installed. Again, this bracket should not be touched if one just removing the headlights.

Sorry for the TMI (too much information)

[sean1.8t]

You do not have to take the back two bolts completely out. Just loosen them up and then you can slide the headlights forward. The back two lower tabs have a slot in it.


Enjoy!

this is by FAR my favorite addition to the B6 that the B5 lacked.

i can't tell you how many times i dropped a damn torx bolt taking out my B5's headlights