I just finished installing my RS4 rear sway bar with new brackets last night. I must have to say that it is quite the noticeable difference even when you don't push the car! The car doesn't lean as much in the corners, the steering feels more direct and has better turning weight. All in all the $125 I have into the project was well worth the cost. Oh, and it only took me 55 minutes start to finish. I am no professional but a hobby worker at best.
Parts:
- OEM RS4 Rear Sway Bar # 8E0-511-409-AL
- OEM RS4 Rear Sway Bar Brackets # 8E0-511-439
- OEM RS4 Rear Sway Bar Bracket Bushings # 8E0-511-327B
*Audi updates its part numbers so they may be updated since the time of this guide. Please check with your Audi parts dealer if you think you have a discrepancy or PM me.*
Tools:
- Wheel Ramps
- 13mm Socket
- 15mm Socket
- Safety Glasses!
*It has come to my attention that some have had better luck with using a 16mm socket on the outside link bolts of the rear sway. They have also used 3" and 6" extensions for their sockets to get better access to some bolt locations. My assumption is that you will use whatever you deem necessary at the time. Make sure you have a complete metric socket set with you--it is always a good idea.*
Step 1: I started by backing the car up on the wheel ramps. I used ramps so that I could apply the parking brake and keep the car in gear to prevent accidents.
Step 2: Remove the 15mm bolt (one for each side) from the stock sway bar axle link.
Step 3: Remove the (2) 13mm bolts from the stock sway bar brackets (4 bolts total--2 per side).
Step 4: Remove the (2) 15mm bolts from the exhaust hangars to allow the exhaust to hang down (4 bolts--2 per side). CAUTION: Have a jack stand under the exhaust to prevent it from sagging too low--you can adjust as needed.
Step 5: Remove the old sway bar. This will take some contortion on your part and some trial and error. I eventually brought one end out from in-between the exhaust near the gas tank and was then able to slide the other end out. How I got there is hard to explain, just try to get one end as far into the wheel well as possible and you'll be in good shape. CAUTION: DO NOT break the blue plastic link in the drivers side wheel well. You'll be sorry.
Step 6: Install the new sway bar in the reverse fashion you removed the stock unit. This still takes some trail and error as it is bigger but it was twice as fast going in as the old was coming out.
Step 7: Loosely install the left and right 15mm axle link bolts. We will tighten these later.
Step 8: Loosely install the left and right 13mm sway bracket bolts. Make sure the brackets are properly seated over the bushings and not pinching in any place.
Step 9: Once all bolts are loosely installed and all bushings are seating properly you can go through and tighten up your bolts. There are 6 bolts in total (2-15mm and 4-13mm). These do not need to be wrenched to the point of stripping, just a good snug fit is all that is necessary. A little blue locktite is never a bad idea either, however I didn't use any.
Step 10: Install the exhaust hangar brackets with the (2) 15mm bolts per side. Before you cinch the bolts tight you may want to check the alignment of your exhaust to the rear bumper cutouts. You can adjust left/right as necessary before tightening the bolts completely.
Step 11: Re-check your work and all bolts, clean up your tools, drive the car off the ramps and you're done!
NOTE: This is the bar installed. The bar should be oriented in the shape of a "u" when installed properly. If the bar makes a "rainbow" shape when looking at the center you have it installed backwards.
NOTE: The new brackets are larger than the stock brackets and fit exceptionally well. Anyone who says the stock brackets are OK with the larger bar is WRONG.
The 18mm stock sport bar and the 22mm RS4 sway bar side-by-side.
What a great improvement! Now I just need a suspension to compliment this. And wheels, tires, brakes, engine upgrades, seats... yikes!
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