Finally ... Boost!

[A4ringedONE8T]

Finally wasted enough gas breaking in the motor to start creeping up on the boost!!!

Some off topic rant before the short log, broke in the motor running open turbo with a screen over the inlet



For those of you that dont know, Ive got a custom 30 series REVO file that Nick and Chris did up for me, supposedly for 630's and a 3" MAF. Well again broke in the motor without a MAF, lambda correction pegged at -25%. Car runs/boosts great without it but my damn idle A/F is still in the shit (same as with the GTRS file) and is around 10.5. As soon as there is load on the car it cleans up perfectly to around 14.5-14.7. Not a big deal but because the MAF is missing I get a CEL as well as a TC light on because its unplugged and Im just sick of looking at it. I spoke with Chris about the idle a/f the day the car blew up and he said that the file he sent me for sure required a MAF and to put one in and see the results (then it broke). So this afternoon I put my 3" VR MAF back in, lamda correction is now at -14.8 but I'm back to the same horrible RPM hold and high idle (11-1200) as I had with the GTRS file which is why I took it out with the last software/turbo.

Sent Chris and email just a few min ago, hopefully they can remove the MAF codes and turn the CEL off, doesnt seem the MAF does anything positive at this point ...

Heres a log from on my way home. Ive just got 300 miles so Im not running too high in the RPM range but just wanted to see what she is doing. Running wastegate pressure (14psi), T6, 93 and meth. As you can see from the timing leveling out, getting 14psi around 3800 or so, pretty much identical to what the 3071R did!

[mtbrider]

nice

[A4ringedONE8T]

nice

haha can always expect that comment from you!

[mtbrider]

I only speak the truth

[AudiA4_20T]

haha can always expect that comment from you!

Lol seriously Josh, I laugh every time you say that... My favorite one was the time when Shawn just commented on something and you said "nice" and Shawn was like wtf I didnt do anything lol

[rxrep]

Shawn, is this thing making it to Waterfest?

[mtbrider]

touche.

[B6Lovin]

^nice

[317ssayzarc]

nice

[gq9]

Even the picture is sexy......

[Gondi Stylez]

nice

[absolutegtr]

open turbo!? Any reason why? But of sounded good though....

[dougyfresh]

nice









hahaha..

shawn. log looks clean. time to turn up that timing advance curve and really see the power

[A4ringedONE8T]

Shawn, is this thing making it to Waterfest?

Yes itll be there

[A4ringedONE8T]

open turbo!? Any reason why? But of sounded good though....

Dont want or need a TIP unless I run a MAF and even that isnt helping me any right now so why use one?

[A4ringedONE8T]

nice

hahaha..

shawn. log looks clean. time to turn up that timing advance curve and really see the power

Boost will lean it out and raise the CF's

[dougyfresh]

Boost will lean it out and raise the CF's

Increase timing advance via Lemmi. Not boost. You can run CFs in the 4 range as long as you're still seeing a good timing curve. The increase in power will be dramatic.

[A4ringedONE8T]

Increase timing advance via Lemmi. Not boost. You can run CFs in the 4 range as long as you're still seeing a good timing curve. The increase in power will be dramatic.

haha Ive been through this probably more than anyone has here on AZ. Ive tried every combination of timing/boost imaginable and have a log for each. Do you really think I plan to run only 14psi? lol

27psi, T6 yields the highest power with 5-6 CF's on pump/meth

[dougyfresh]

haha Ive been through this probably more than anyone has here on AZ. Ive tried every combination of timing/boost imaginable and have a log for each. Do you really think I plan to run only 14psi? lol

27psi, T6 yields the highest power with 5-6 CF's on pump/meth

Whether you have been through this more than anyone else, or just tooting your own horn.... I was merely commenting based upon the one log you posted. And that log looked like it could use more timing advance (my personal opinion). That's all. Do what you want. Its your car. I'm through typing into arguments with everyone here and will keep my mouth shut.

[A4ringedONE8T]

Whether you have been through this more than anyone else, or just tooting your own horn.... I was merely commenting based upon the one log you posted. And that log looked like it could use more timing advance (my personal opinion). That's all. Do what you want. Its your car. I'm through typing into arguments with everyone here and will keep my mouth shut.

Sorry but I figured it was implied that I wasnt trying to "max" the car out while just getting it back into boost after the rebuild.

[absolutegtr]

Dont want or need a TIP unless I run a MAF and even that isnt helping me any right now so why use one?

Oh! I thought you meant "open turbo" as in you were running no testpipe/downpipe. Like when cars run "open headers" and what not.....

[Hamann]

I need another project....

oh, and...

"nice."

[sean1.8t]

where did you get the screen?

oh and, "nice" i guess

[sean1.8t]

where did you get the screen?

[diagnosticator]

Are you joking? No air filter? No offense intended, but that is unbelievable! If true, you probably caused the equivalent of at least 50K miles wear to your new engine. The amount of fine dust and road trash sucked into the engine even during a short trip, is enough to damage the turbo compressor, then the valves, and pistons/rings and cylinder bore. Change your engine oil asap, and again within a 100 miles or so. Reinstall an effective air filter before driving again. And I recommend getting a sample of the oil used in the engine during the break in, and have it tested for dirt and wear metal, to evaluate the extent of damage that occurred. I am not exaggerating here.

[B6Lovin]

Are you joking? No air filter? No offense intended, but that is unbelievable! If true, you probably caused the equivalent of at least 50K miles wear to your new engine. The amount of fine dust and road trash sucked into the engine even during a short trip, is enough to damage the turbo compressor, then the valves, and pistons/rings and cylinder bore. Change your engine oil asap, and again within a 100 miles or so. Reinstall an effective air filter before driving again. And I recommend getting a sample of the oil used in the engine during the break in, and have it tested for dirt and wear metal, to evaluate the extent of damage that occurred. I am not exaggerating here.

really? a screen vs. a filter makes that big of a difference? obviously something designed to keep larger foreign objects out won't filtrate as well, but do the super fine particles make that huge of a difference in wear?

not disagreeing, just always figured REALLY fine particles like that would either burn up or simply dirty things up a little bit... i mean, with the amount of oil and other crap that normally makes its way back into our combustion chambers for emissions reasons i figured it wouldn't matter that much.

[CO AVANT]

Are you joking? No air filter? No offense intended, but that is unbelievable! If true, you probably caused the equivalent of at least 50K miles wear to your new engine. The amount of fine dust and road trash sucked into the engine even during a short trip, is enough to damage the turbo compressor, then the valves, and pistons/rings and cylinder bore. Change your engine oil asap, and again within a 100 miles or so. Reinstall an effective air filter before driving again. And I recommend getting a sample of the oil used in the engine during the break in, and have it tested for dirt and wear metal, to evaluate the extent of damage that occurred. I am not exaggerating here.

You have my vote sir! I listen to John when he speaks.

[A4ringedONE8T]

Are you joking? No air filter? No offense intended, but that is unbelievable! If true, you probably caused the equivalent of at least 50K miles wear to your new engine. The amount of fine dust and road trash sucked into the engine even during a short trip, is enough to damage the turbo compressor, then the valves, and pistons/rings and cylinder bore. Change your engine oil asap, and again within a 100 miles or so. Reinstall an effective air filter before driving again. And I recommend getting a sample of the oil used in the engine during the break in, and have it tested for dirt and wear metal, to evaluate the extent of damage that occurred. I am not exaggerating here.

I ran the last turbo I had for a few 1,000 miles just like this and the head, pistons, and rings were just as pretty when I pulled the motor apart this time as I did when I did the first build back in January having always used a filter. Having a filter 6" off the ground vs having the turbo this way with the inlet hidden behind the headlight and rad I guarantee there is not too much difference. Does it ingest anything more than the norm, maybe, highly doubt it though. Look at most big turbo cars (not Audi's and VW's), ALOT of them all run open turbo or just a basic screen over them

There was also a ton of shit I tossed from the engine bay that you said was absolutely necessary for the car to run correctly, and guess what, its better off in the trash ...

[n7plus1]

nice pictar

[diagnosticator]

I ran the last turbo I had for a few 1,000 miles just like this and the head, pistons, and rings were just as pretty when I pulled the motor apart this time as I did when I did the first build back in January having always used a filter. Having a filter 6" off the ground vs having the turbo this way with the inlet hidden behind the headlight and rad I guarantee there is not too much difference. Does it ingest anything more than the norm, maybe, highly doubt it though. Look at most big turbo cars (not Audi's and VW's), ALOT of them all run open turbo or just a basic screen over them

There was also a ton of shit I tossed from the engine bay that you said was absolutely necessary for the car to run correctly, and guess what, its better off in the trash ...

A casual visual examination isn't really an accurate way to determine what the real effect of running with out an air filter has on the cylinder bore, and piston/rings in an engine. In order to get a real sense of the high wear rates caused by running without an effective air filter, take an oil sample and have it tested. Besides the high iron, aluminum, chromium, and copper wear metals that will be found in the oil sample, the high dirt levels revealed by high silicon in the oil will be apparent also. Depending on how much the engine was run without the filter, will effect the wear metal concentrations and the amount of suspended dirt in the oil, particles ranging between 20 and 30 microns are especially harmful. I really can't stress enough, you should get an oil sample tested. On any engine, and in particular built up engines, regular oil analysis is an accepted way to evaluate engine wear, and will often provide evidence of internal problems before failure occurs. Having a record of oil sample results reveals a lot about the internal conditions of an engine when compared to the prior sample results. I hope your engine hasn't been harmed significantly, an oil sample analysis is the only way to determine whats going on in the engine as far as dirt and wear is concerned.

BTW, I don't believe I ever said that the engine will only run right with all of the OE stock emissions and crankcase equipment installed and functioning. Sorry for the misunderstanding, but I meant to say that the crankcase ventilation equipment is important for proper functioning of the engine AS DESIGNED and built stock. Obviously, your set up isn't stock, but effective crankcase ventilation is still important for best performance.

[CO AVANT]

$23 for oil analysis is worth it IMO. I am going to do this when I get back from my trip to Cali.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html

[Ill 3.0]

Blackstone is amazing. They emailed me results two days after I dropped FedEX ground (they're close to me) and soon sent a hard copy in the mail.