How many miles until you changed your...?

[04QuattroTurbo]

Trying to plan ahead financially. I think it would be a good idea to something like this in one thread. I know there will be factors like driving habits, style etc, so YMMV, but with enough information, we can get a feel and an idea how long the wear parts on our cars last.

1) Brake pads and/or rotors
2) Clutch
3) Timing Belt
4) pulley belts or serpentine belts
5) Battery
6) Headlight bulbs, Xenon or the Halogens
7) Other bulbs, interior, brake lights, reverse light, etc.


And any other items that are considered wear items and not covered by either the original warranty or the CPO warranty.

Your input would be most helpful. Thanks in advance

[El_Chapusca]

Clutch should be change around the 80k mark (stock) MY NEXT ONE WILL BE (South Bend FE SS)

[04QuattroTurbo]

Clutch should be change around the 80k mark (stock) MY NEXT ONE WILL BE (South Bend FE SS)

Is yours already slipping? How many miles do you have on it?

[CO AVANT]

1. pads need to be checked for pad thickness. Front pads have wear sensors on them but the rears do not if I recall correctly. I change with ~1/16" left on the pad.

2. clutch only needs to be replaced once it starts to slip. Some can last 30K miles, some 130K miles. all depends on how you drive the car.

3. Timing belt ~80K, I'd do mine at 60K

4. Serpentine belt at same time as timing belt

5. Battery only needs to be replaced if it cannot take a charge and hold that charge over a days time. Most oem's last between 50-100K

6. I wouldn't worry about the bulbs unless they fail. They can dim over time, so if you are at like 100K and really feel the need to replace them, then go for it. Just unwanted $$$ to spend.

7. Would never worry about the other bulbs unless/until they go out on you.

[Smiley]

Lets see

135 000km for rear brakes
Clutch, 138 000km and still going , havent replaced yet
Timing belt, procrastinated and finally did it at 125 000km
Rest never changed, well license plate light a couple of times but only cause I put in LED's..otherwise they were good till like 110 when i swapped the stocks

[04QuattroTurbo]

Lets see

135 000km for rear brakes
Clutch, 138 000km and still going , havent replaced yet
Timing belt, procrastinated and finally did it at 125 000km
Rest never changed, well license plate light a couple of times but only cause I put in LED's..otherwise they were good till like 110 when i swapped the stocks

Thanks, all keep it coming, I know YMMV so the more we have the better we can get an average and get an idea. Specially for owners like myself that 1. never owned an Audi or any VAG vehicle. 2. Bought a preowned car with fairly high mileage (56K). Translating your km to miles, I am kind of cutting them in half, so the timing belt was around 62K which is well within the "recommended" 70K which the dealership tells me if it breaks prior to 70K they will not only fix it, but all subsequent damage via CPO warranty. I guess Audi learned from the B5's estimated 105K Timing Belt interval and all the broken valves and the Class Action Suit filed in NJ.

[El_Chapusca]

im only at 72k but i say that by 80 i will need to change it.
make sure to check your timing belt for tears you dont want that thing breaking in the middle of the road and screws coming out your muffler

[04QuattroTurbo]

im only at 72k but i say that by 80 i will need to change it.
make sure to check your timing belt for tears you dont want that thing breaking in the middle of the road and screws coming out your muffler

Is there a timing belt inspection cover like some Japanese cars have or do you need to take it all apart to inspect? Dealership told me that I should at least have it checked at 60K, but recommends changing it at 70K.

[Killerteve]

1) Brake pads and/or rotors- Your/mechanic's discretion, my rotors are just fine at 95k but pads have been changed
2) Clutch- Around 90k, I bought the car at 72k and was told it was a highway commuter
3) Timing Belt-done when I bought it but if you hit 80k and haven't done it yet then get on it quick
4) pulley belts or serpentine belts- do with timing belt
5) Battery- Stopped holding a charge at about 92k
6) Headlight bulbs, Xenon or the Halogens- put in HID's at 75k but oem halogens where still good
7) Other bulbs, interior, brake lights, reverse light, etc.- have a rear passenger reading light out but I don't care

[A4 ABT]

Clutch should be change around the 80k mark (stock) MY NEXT ONE WILL BE (South Bend FE SS)

I changed mine at 100k miles. It was beginning to slip.

[pyro]

much of that stuff is "as it goes" replacement.

[t0mt0m]

i have an '03, didn't really start driving it on a regular basis for work until a year ago

1) Brake pads and/or rotors - now at 65k
2) Clutch - 58k
3) Timing Belt - not yet
4) pulley belts or serpentine belts - not yet
5) Battery - 45k
6) Headlight bulbs, Xenon or the Halogens - not yet
7) Other bulbs, interior, brake lights, reverse light, etc. - no yet

[04QuattroTurbo]

much of that stuff is "as it goes" replacement.

with the exception of the timing belt of course...this would be useful in predicting and investing so that we can anticipate when to fork up the cash. Imagine your clutch goes out and you have $100 in the bank?

[brewmastr]

i say as many others on this forum 60k for your TB,the plastic impellers on the water pump have history of breaking and causing havoc, other than that the stuff you listed is pretty much on a as needed basis.

[gdawg'05a4]

1) Brake pads and/or rotors - Changed factory pads at 61k, still life left. Rotors were fine. Went to HP2s at 87k. Rear pads changed every 30k. On my 3rd set now.
2) Clutch - Original at 95,xxx miles.
3) Timing Belt - 75k, WP was still fine, not brittle like others, could have gone longer.
4) pulley belts or serpentine belts - Did with TB job.
5) Battery - Original, 1.5 month shy of 4 years old.
6) Headlight bulbs, Xenon or the Halogens - Original
7) Other bulbs, interior, brake lights, reverse light, etc. - One brake light and one tail light.

[AudiA4Turbo22]

76k currently and changing timing belt tomorrow water pump died!

[pyro]

with the exception of the timing belt of course...this would be useful in predicting and investing so that we can anticipate when to fork up the cash. Imagine your clutch goes out and you have $100 in the bank?

haha, if you drive an audi you should know better than to only have 100 in the bank and no credit card incase of a repair.

[04QuattroTurbo]

haha, if you drive an audi you should know better than to only have 100 in the bank and no credit card incase of a repair.

LOL, true, true. Even with a credit card...you still have to pay that back! Some of our members here are students, unless they are silver spoon students, I can't imagine any of them to be at the ready to spend a grand here and there. It is always nice to know that maybe you should be planning ahead for possible impending disaster. Or you maybe saving up for your BAT, BT, Rims, Kit, etc. but you have 75K on the clock, you may want to change the priority there a little since a dead car with some a BAT, BT, Rims, etc. is no where as nice as running car with stock turbo, rims, etc.

[Pr0n]

I haven't done much yet, so I may not be any help...

Audi did my brakes (not sure if it was only the pads) under warranty around ~49500 miles.

Battery wasn't OEM/stock, and would only last 5-10 minutes while on "Accessory" (but would otherwise start fine, even in the winter as long as I never touched "Accessory") when I got the vehicle around ~44300 miles; I'm not sure if the previous one was bad and that's why the owner changed it.

Interior door lights (the red ones) on the front passenger side and rear driver's side have needed changing since ~44300 miles. Same with the ones that face the ground (it might be more than the bulbs that have blown).

[skeeball]

Even with a credit card...you still have to pay that back!

Oh crap! I have to pay that money back?? I'm so screwed.

[04QuattroTurbo]

Oh crap! I have to pay that money back?? I'm so screwed.

Sort of, there are ways around that, of course

[Papachristou]

1) Brake pads and/or rotors front/rear rotors and pads at 45k
2) Clutch FE SS put in by me at 77k
3) Timing Belt Got bored waiting on my flywheel to come back so i did the TB too at 77k
4) pulley belts or serpentine belts did those with the TB at 77k
5) Battery left car sitting for a month at 40k, had to put a new battery
6) Headlight bulbs, Xenon or the Halogens many bulbs put in
7) Other bulbs, interior, brake lights, reverse light, etc.

fuel pump died at 60k

[CyberPMG]

1) Brake pads and/or rotors - Gone through rear pads w/ 45k miles. Gone through front pads w/ 45k miles. Front rotors replaced after 90k miles (heat cracked)
2) Clutch - went to ECS RA4 Stage 2 (RS4 clutch and LWFW) at 44k miles. Still strong at 130k miles. No need for replacement until there are signs of slipping.
3) Timing belt - Replaced at 60k miles. Replaced again at 120k miles.
4) other belts - done with the timing belt (including water pump)
5) Battery - replaced after 4.5 years (Optima Red Top 35)
6) bulbs - only when they go out. Have not yet replaced Xenon bulbs
7) other - fuel pump @ 80k miles, slave cylinder @ 110k miles, radiator @ 90k miles, brake fluid once every year (running Motul RBF600).

[bavaria75]

I'm at 90K miles

1) Brake pads and/or rotors - Replaced front at 87K (250USD DIY)
2) Clutch - Still ok
3) Timing belt - not yet
4) other belts - not yet
5) Battery - 2nd set but I bought it with the new one not sure on the miles
6) bulbs - 1 Xenon at 88K (75USD)

[04QuattroTurbo]

I'm at 90K miles

1) Brake pads and/or rotors - Replaced front at 87K (250USD DIY)
2) Clutch - Still ok
3) Timing belt - not yet
4) other belts - not yet
5) Battery - 2nd set but I bought it with the new one not sure on the miles
6) bulbs - 1 Xenon at 88K (75USD)

I've never seen the Xenons for under 99.99. Where can you get it for $75?

[gdawg'05a4]

eBay usually has lots of D1S Xenon bulb sets for less than $100 and a lot with lifetime warranty IIRC.

[bavaria75]

Got the spare Xenon from a guy who was going back to stock. Have some slightly more blue once in now. SO to be far I got 2 used once for 75 both. New D1S are going for over 100 correct.