Slotted Rotors / Hawk HPS Pads - Problem? Help Please..

[JJPA4SE]

First off, sorry this is not my stomping grounds but I have the B6S4 front brakes on my A4. Also, sorry this is long...

So.. i got new regular slotted rotors from ECS on the front and new Hawk HPS pads on the front... when i first left the garage they seemed a bit spongy (compared to the OEM Pads/Rotors on the car previously). I didnt think much of it thinking that i needed to bed them in. So, i bed them in and after i drive around a little thinking they would be cooled off and they still suck and actually are a bit worse. So i get home and look at the rotors and they seem to be a bit 'glazed over' and the outside edges of the slots are kinda.. gone. \/ see \/


so.. i gave it a few days thinking it would get better and its not (hence this post). Currently they are still really spongy and when i get on the brakes i can hear/feel the slots, i think, cutting into the pads (which is what might be 'filling' the slots).

sorry this is long but i'm in need of help as the $$ i spent is not workin worth a shish..

TIA

(I also did the same combo for the rear stock A4 brakes and i have no such problems)

[40valve]

How did you bed the pads in?
Also, did you bleed the fluid?

[covertS4driver]

Even if you bled them, I say bleed them again.
Air in the line/caliper is a big cause for spongy pedal feel.

[JJPA4SE]

i did a series of 60+mph to 20mph hard stopping until it became difficult to stop (i'm assuming due to heat buildup).

i'm ashamed to say i didnt bleed them. i had thought that if i didnt open up the lines there wasnt a need to bleed. i guess i was wrong.

Thoughts on the slots grinding/digging into the pads?

[guglielmo]

bleed them

[40valve]

What is happening is that the pad thickness now is way different. It will take some time to even out but it's always a good idea to replace your fluid if you are changing pads. Good brake fluid will cost you ~ $15 and the job is not that hard.

[RAudi Driver]

First off, sorry this is not my stomping grounds but I have the B6S4 front brakes on my A4. Also, sorry this is long...

So.. i got new regular slotted rotors from ECS on the front and new Hawk HPS pads on the front... when i first left the garage they seemed a bit spongy (compared to the OEM Pads/Rotors on the car previously). I didnt think much of it thinking that i needed to bed them in. So, i bed them in and after i drive around a little thinking they would be cooled off and they still suck and actually are a bit worse. So i get home and look at the rotors and they seem to be a bit 'glazed over' and the outside edges of the slots are kinda.. gone. \/ see \/


so.. i gave it a few days thinking it would get better and its not (hence this post). Currently they are still really spongy and when i get on the brakes i can hear/feel the slots, i think, cutting into the pads (which is what might be 'filling' the slots).

sorry this is long but i'm in need of help as the $$ i spent is not workin worth a shish..

TIA

(I also did the same combo for the rear stock A4 brakes and i have no such problems)

1. ECS rotors use some of the worst metals to make their rotors. That being said, they don't absorb their share of the heat thereby forcing the pad to take on more heat than it should. You could of very well glazed your pads and there isn't any amount of fluid bleeding that is going to solve your problem.

2. Bleeding you brakes every 15k is recommended. Bleeding between brake changes is not necesary one does not need to do it if they don't allow air into the lines.

3. Would I have bleed my brakes? If I did new pads and new rotors, yes I would have gone the extra distance and bled the brakes.

Solution:

1. Bleed the brakes to eliminate a fluid problem.

2. Take your pads off the car and sand them. You may have overheated your pads during your bedding process causing them to glaze. don't kow for sure but the normal process is, several applications from 30 to 0 before you do the 60 to 20 stops. You're to pull the car over and let it cool to air temperature, a few hours.

3. Scrub your rotors and hit them with some brake cleaner.

If you want a real good way to bleed your brakes, go and get four speedy bleeders. Look for part #12701.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...peedy+bleeders

[WinterRunner]

1. ECS rotors use some of the worst metals to make their rotors. That being said, they don't absorb their share of the heat thereby forcing the pad to take on more heat than it should. You could of very well glazed your pads and there isn't any amount of fluid bleeding that is going to solve your problem.

2. Bleeding you brakes every 15k is recommended. Bleeding between brake changes is not necesary one does not need to do it if they don't allow air into the lines.

3. Would I have bleed my brakes? If I did new pads and new rotors, yes I would have gone the extra distance and bled the brakes.

Solution:

1. Bleed the brakes to eliminate a fluid problem.

2. Take your pads off the car and sand them. You may have overheated your pads during your bedding process causing them to glaze. don't kow for sure but the normal process is, several applications from 30 to 0 before you do the 60 to 20 stops. You're to pull the car over and let it cool to air temperature, a few hours.

3. Scrub your rotors and hit them with some brake cleaner.

If you want a real good way to bleed your brakes, go and get four speedy bleeders. Look for part #12701.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...peedy+bleeders

Are the ECS slotted OEM rotors really that bad? are they definitly worse than stock blanks? I'm just curious because I bought some but havent installed them yet. If anyone has some insight on this please let me know, I could probibly still get a full refund if they are that bad. Sorry to thread jack BTW. On with the show!

[SuperAvant]

1. ECS rotors use some of the worst metals to make their rotors. That being said, they don't absorb their share of the heat thereby forcing the pad to take on more heat than it should. You could of very well glazed your pads and there isn't any amount of fluid bleeding that is going to solve your problem.

2. Bleeding you brakes every 15k is recommended. Bleeding between brake changes is not necesary one does not need to do it if they don't allow air into the lines.

3. Would I have bleed my brakes? If I did new pads and new rotors, yes I would have gone the extra distance and bled the brakes.

Solution:

1. Bleed the brakes to eliminate a fluid problem.

2. Take your pads off the car and sand them. You may have overheated your pads during your bedding process causing them to glaze. don't kow for sure but the normal process is, several applications from 30 to 0 before you do the 60 to 20 stops. You're to pull the car over and let it cool to air temperature, a few hours.

3. Scrub your rotors and hit them with some brake cleaner.

If you want a real good way to bleed your brakes, go and get four speedy bleeders. Look for part #12701.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...peedy+bleeders

Who makes good rotors to buy?

[RAudi Driver]

Powerslot, but I am not sure if they have them for our cars. The metal is one thing. You could get the ECS rotors cryo treated and that would help with them warping but I don't think that it be as good as a set of Powerslots. Check out Powerslots web site and then check out my setup on the Maxima. The brakes are now about 6 months old and they still look like new and stop on a dime. I have the Powerslot cryo treated. read up on iron content in rotors. ECS rotors are famous for warping very quickly. They Suck!

http://www.powerslot.com/pages/powerslot_info.html

http://www.powerslot.com/pages/power_slot.html

[WinterRunner]

Powerslot, but I am not sure if they have them for our cars. The metal is one thing. You could get the ECS rotors cryo treated and that would help with them warping but I don't think that it be as good as a set of Powerslots. Check out Powerslots web site and then check out my setup on the Maxima. The brakes are now about 6 months old and they still look like new and stop on a dime. I have the Powerslot cryo treated. read up on iron content in rotors. ECS rotors are famous for warping very quickly. They Suck!

http://www.powerslot.com/pages/powerslot_info.html

http://www.powerslot.com/pages/power_slot.html

well that sucks, nice waste of 500 $ on my end...... I'm gonna try and return them I think......

[RAudi Driver]

If you can't return them, have them cryo treated before you install them. It'll go a long way in preserving your rotors.

Diversified Cryogenics

[Sharkfin]

I've heard of numerous issues with ECS rotors, I think you should try to get a refund or a brand new set.

[WinterRunner]

I've heard of numerous issues with ECS rotors, I think you should try to get a refund or a brand new set.

They are brand new...... ECS is stupid in the fact that they put wicked sticky tape all over the rotors, I cant even get it off. Morons. I'll call em tomarrow for a return... Thanks RA.

[Sharkfin]

They are brand new...... ECS is stupid in the fact that they put wicked sticky tape all over the rotors, I cant even get it off. Morons. I'll call em tomarrow for a return... Thanks RA.

I mean't if they won't take a return try your luck with another brand new set. Good luck resolving this

[JJPA4SE]

GL WinterRunner, glad this was brought to your attn before you are in my shoes.

ok.. so back on topic. i cant return mine and power slot apparently has a rotor for these brakes but everyone the list power slot vendor list do not carry it.

I will bleed them and clean the pads/rotors asap.. one thing not discussed is why the slots are essentially digging into the pads. i can feel/hear it happening, even when stopping normally at a stop sign.

also, thanks for the help so far...

[RAudi Driver]

That's normal. Be glad you didnt' get drilled. Now those things are loud. Are the hawk pads beveled on the edges?

[JJPA4SE]

yes the hawk hps have factory beveled edges.

Update:

I bleed them and they still seem some what spongy or maybe there is absolutely no bite to the hawk hps pads and i expected there to be a better bite than OEM.

I cleaned out all of the slots and sanded the pads. put it all back together and went for a test run. i did normal braking and the clunking noise seemed like it was gone and then i did a bit of a higher speed stop (not heavy braking) and i hear/feel the clunking. i think it must be a slot that is catching the pad maybe and the clunking is the pad being 'rocked' within the caliper.

Thoughts?

[RAudi Driver]

How does the pad seat in the caliper. Is it locked in? Is it too much trouble to snap a few shots with the wheel off?

Did you double check to make sure that the caliper is properly bolted to the bracket? double check this as it's usually a cause for clunking. I broke a caliper bolt once and my front rotor was clunking, that was until the caliper came off on a freeway exit and binded the wheel into a complete stop.

[WinterRunner]

How does the pad seat in the caliper. Is it locked in? Is it too much trouble to snap a few shots with the wheel off?

Did you double check to make sure that the caliper is properly bolted to the bracket? double check this as it's usually a cause for clunking. I broke a caliper bolt once and my front rotor was clunking, that was until the caliper came off on a freeway exit and binded the wheel into a complete stop.

Daym, that must of been fun, or scary..... lol. Hey RA, Where would you suggest I send the Rotors to get treated? Would it be a mail out type thing? thanks.

[RAudi Driver]

Call Diversified Cryogenics:

http://www.diversifiedcryogenics.com/index-2.html

[WinterRunner]

Well I spoke with that company, and they garrentee 3X the life of the rotor when treated with cryogenics. Now my question is this: should I just freeze the ones I have now, or should I send those ones back and buiy slotted ones directly from Diversified.... I will end up losing money either way, but much less if I did these rotors and didnt have to buy new ones.

[JJPA4SE]

How does the pad seat in the caliper. Is it locked in? Is it too much trouble to snap a few shots with the wheel off?

Did you double check to make sure that the caliper is properly bolted to the bracket? double check this as it's usually a cause for clunking. I broke a caliper bolt once and my front rotor was clunking, that was until the caliper came off on a freeway exit and binded the wheel into a complete stop.

Inboard (fits into the piston)


Outboard (is held to the caliper/carrier with a spring clip)


I dont know if i can get pictures tonight.. i'll see what i can do. As for the caliper bolts... i had it off last night and re-tightened it all back down and got the same result. i'll double check everything when i have the wheel off.

Anyone have feedback on how the 'bite' is with Hawk HPS's.. i'm 100% not satisfied. i bleed them and i had done a full flush about 6mo ago... i feel liek i'm driving stock B6A4 brakes again.

Thanks for helping so much RAudi

Also, Diversified is great.. i actually got my pads from them and although they initially sent me the wrong ones they took care of the problem right away at no cost to me.