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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Cam Plug - easy replace?

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    So I had a leaking cam tensioner seal / valve cover gasket, got the kit and had them replaced (valve cover gaskets, half moons and cam tenioner sesals). I was told at the time of installation i should have got the cam plugs too - because those are very prone to leaking. None of the write-ups I've seen included that, and it never crossed my mind at the time.

    Well, now the cam plug on my driver side is leaking a bit and it runs straight down to the exhaust manifold and makes for a real nice smell for several minutes every morning during warmup.

    Do i have to take it all apart again just for those plugs? Or can i 'pick' it out and press a new one in? I searched but couldn't find much specifics for doing the plug itself.

  2. #2
    Active Member Four Rings Jung's Avatar
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    Re: Cam Plug - easy replace?

    i had the dealership do mine before i purchased the car. and they said they had to take the intake off, which i imagine to only be the ypipe and acc. hose, but possibly the Intake manifold and fuel rail as well. they're sort of crammed in there.
    '07 S4 Avant - The Purpetrator
    there's just something about her, maybe it's her awful accent but i've always wanted to tonguepunch her fartbox - cruz

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Re: Cam Plug - easy replace?

    Quote Originally Posted by jungb5s4 View Post
    i had the dealership do mine before i purchased the car. and they said they had to take the intake off, which i imagine to only be the ypipe and acc. hose, but possibly the Intake manifold and fuel rail as well. they're sort of crammed in there.
    during my search i came across your original post -- 14 hours of labor, right? that's a joke hopefully it didn't end up costing that much or it was done under warranty.

    anyways I can't see why i'd have to take anything more than the valve cover off at worst..but who knows. I'm not sure exactly how it attaches into the port and on the cam. it would be my lucky day if someone were to tell me it can just be pulled out and a new one popped in. but that would be too easy.

  4. #4
    Active Member Four Rings Jung's Avatar
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    Re: Cam Plug - easy replace?

    they did a bunch of other shit which is why it took them so long, but i still have trouble finding things that take 14 hours to do lol. turbo swaps have been done in less time. call up a mechanic at audi and ask what it all entails. or find someone with a Bentley manual. i couldnt tell you what it hooks up to or all that jazz.. i'm interested though.
    '07 S4 Avant - The Purpetrator
    there's just something about her, maybe it's her awful accent but i've always wanted to tonguepunch her fartbox - cruz

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings infinkc's Avatar
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    Re: Cam Plug - easy replace?

    you will need to loosen the cam end to get the plug out, you can possibly pull it out and press another in, but id do it as a last resort. You will probably need to change the tensioner gasket again since you will break its seal when you replace the plug.

  6. #6
    Active Member Four Rings
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    Re: Cam Plug - easy replace?

    If you're talking about the plastic piece that you can see from the outside of the cylinder head, it's really easy. Just take off the valve covers and remove one cam bearing cap and replace. You may need to use a sealer on the cam cap on re-install - obviously torque it to spec.
    Alex

    2001.5 Nogaro Blue S4, 6-Speed, ARD 2.7T 68mm HTA GT2868 Kit

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Re: Cam Plug - easy replace?

    Quote Originally Posted by lil' is 300 View Post
    If you're talking about the plastic piece that you can see from the outside of the cylinder head, it's really easy. Just take off the valve covers and remove one cam bearing cap and replace. You may need to use a sealer on the cam cap on re-install - obviously torque it to spec.



    so basically if i remove cam cap (see bolts circled in red on pic - that's what you're talking about, right?) it will just remove a bit of tension allowing me to pull and replace the plug.

    So am i correct in thinking the end of the cam has the cam seal, then the cam plug? Should I take VC off, remove cam cap at end of exhaust cam, pull cam plug, pull cam seal (do they nest together or butt up together?). Put in cam seal (tap back with large socket?) and put in cam plug (tap large socket?) -- then tighten cam cap back to spec, VC on and done?

    Also, since i'm not loosening the chain for cam tensioner seals i don't have to worry about screwing up the cam timing, right?

    thanks!!

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Re: Cam Plug - easy replace?

    have a part number or pic of the plug?

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Re: Cam Plug - easy replace?

    Quote Originally Posted by RedRocketS4 View Post
    have a part number or pic of the plug?
    078 103 113 E

    there were some pics on AW of the cap/plug but AW is down for maintenance now.. let me see if i can find one on here.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Re: Cam Plug - easy replace?

    Thanks for the part number. i also found it here for pretty cheap:

    http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...252@Cam%20Plug

    I found the plug. I'm doing the cam tensioner gasket and valvle cover gasket this weekend. Is it possible to change all of the plugs while I'm in there without having to remove the cam itself? moslty for preventative maintenance?

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Re: Cam Plug - easy replace?

    Quote Originally Posted by RedRocketS4 View Post
    Thanks for the part number. i also found it here for pretty cheap:

    http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...252@Cam%20Plug

    I found the plug. I'm doing the cam tensioner gasket and valvle cover gasket this weekend. Is it possible to change all of the plugs while I'm in there without having to remove the cam itself? moslty for preventative maintenance?
    yeah do as much as you can while you are in there. i just did the vc's and cam tensioner seal 3 months ago and now at a minimum i need a new driver side VC gasket again.. double work sucks. do it right the first time (wish i had known at the time the plugs leak too).

    Blauparts has a good kit with everything you need.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    01 Laser Red 6MT, 13 Touareg TDI
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    Re: Cam Plug - easy replace?

    hahaha... man, I'm an idiot. I ordered this kit (and the tool rental) from Blauparts and didnt even realize the plugs were in the kit until I read your last post... They have instructions for the change, so I'll let you know how it goes.

    http://blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GF21002

  13. #13
    Active Member Two Rings ImolaMelo's Avatar
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    i dont know how old this post is but how did this go i changed the V.C.Gs and didn't realize the cam plugs in the back needed to be replaced do i need a new kits or just get the plugs an replace the 2
    This >>>http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...252@Cam%20Plug

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    get just plug. both can be replaced from outside. you just need a long flat head screwdriver and a hammer to punch through the side and then pry it out. new one can be pushed in much easier than old one leaving the spot.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings 8520's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by julex View Post
    get just plug. both can be replaced from outside. you just need a long flat head screwdriver and a hammer to punch through the side and then pry it out. new one can be pushed in much easier than old one leaving the spot.
    Very similar to what I did. This is way easier than the "right" way and just as effective.
    -dre

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings crazexr7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by julex View Post
    get just plug. both can be replaced from outside. you just need a long flat head screwdriver and a hammer to punch through the side and then pry it out. new one can be pushed in much easier than old one leaving the spot.
    Wait so from what you're saying I can do this without having to take off the valve cover again?

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings Corbett's Avatar
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    Cam Plug - easy replace?

    Quote Originally Posted by crazexr7 View Post
    Wait so from what you're saying I can do this without having to take off the valve cover again?
    Yes. One on the back of each of the heads. Stab them with a screwdriver and pop them out. Put a thin layer of RTV on the edge of the new cam plugs where they seal and pop them back in. 5 minutes each side.
    Sportec RS600 + 6 speed swap. Fastest RS6 in the USA

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings crazexr7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corbett View Post
    Yes. One on the back of each of the heads. Stab them with a screwdriver and pop them out. Put a thin layer of RTV on the edge of the new cam plugs where they seal and pop them back in. 5 minutes each side.
    Awesome. Thanks!

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings somebody5788's Avatar
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    I realized this was an old thread but started laughing my ass off when I realized some people thought that this was a hard job. It's by far the easiest job on the whole car.
    -Nic

    2007 Nissan Titan - Hard wired Escort 8500 X50 | "Rigid" LED pod lights
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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    NO SEALANT!!!!

    Push them as they are. If you use sealant and have positive pressure in crank case, these will shot out of their place. Happened to me when I was pressure testing at 5 psi after using sealant on one of them. Problem here is that they have pretty significant area so they are sensitive to any pressure acting from behind. Silicone in this case will act like lubricant and prevent rubber ribs from jamming against head.

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings 8520's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by julex View Post
    NO SEALANT!!!!

    Push them as they are. If you use sealant and have positive pressure in crank case, these will shot out of their place. Happened to me when I was pressure testing at 5 psi after using sealant on one of them. Problem here is that they have pretty significant area so they are sensitive to any pressure acting from behind. Silicone in this case will act like lubricant and prevent rubber ribs from jamming against head.
    Pfffffft.

    -dre

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings Corbett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by julex View Post
    NO SEALANT!!!!

    Push them as they are. If you use sealant and have positive pressure in crank case, these will shot out of their place. Happened to me when I was pressure testing at 5 psi after using sealant on one of them. Problem here is that they have pretty significant area so they are sensitive to any pressure acting from behind. Silicone in this case will act like lubricant and prevent rubber ribs from jamming against head.
    I had the exact OPPOSITE problem happen. I DIDNT seal my cam passenger side cam cap with rtv and it came off and oil went everywhere.

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    to each their own. they are not supposed to be sealed and they held fine for 10years until they just wore down.

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Three Rings AudiHolicS4's Avatar
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    Yea i didnt seal mine and the old ones didnt have sealant on them so i just pushed them in as they are and have been fine for 5k. Also went with the easy install and just punched a hole thru one and pryed it out
    2000 Silver S4

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings Corbett's Avatar
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    Cam Plug - easy replace?

    Quote Originally Posted by julex View Post
    to each their own. they are not supposed to be sealed and they held fine for 10years until they just wore down.
    JHM techs told me to seal them
    Sportec RS600 + 6 speed swap. Fastest RS6 in the USA

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings somebody5788's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by julex View Post
    NO SEALANT!!!!

    Push them as they are. If you use sealant and have positive pressure in crank case, these will shot out of their place. Happened to me when I was pressure testing at 5 psi after using sealant on one of them. Problem here is that they have pretty significant area so they are sensitive to any pressure acting from behind. Silicone in this case will act like lubricant and prevent rubber ribs from jamming against head.
    Holy misinformation!

    There should NOT be any pressure in the crankcase or valve covers, this is why there is a vent system!! Also, when you use silicone you are supposed to wait 2-3 hours before you use the car. It dries like a glue, no way in hell is it going to be popped out. If you have pressure in your crank case when doing a boost leak test it's either from a bad PCV system or because you forgot to pull the oil cap off.

    You don't have to have sealant, it's a personal preference. I for one prefer having the silicone on there.
    -Nic

    2007 Nissan Titan - Hard wired Escort 8500 X50 | "Rigid" LED pod lights
    2006 Honda 919 - Dual Yoshimura slip on exhaust | Homelink | RAM X-Grip mount with charger
    1997 BMW 328is - Stock. Completely Stock...
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  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings Timtheguru's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corbett View Post
    JHM techs told me to seal them
    Yikes.
    2001.5 S4 Sedan
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  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    It really is personal pref and doesnt matter either way, I have seen plenty done both ways.
    Book says no sealer, but do whatever helps you sleep at night.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

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