Someone wanna help me make a VAGCOM sticky?

[Ewok_Fetus]

I am trying to get a COMPLETE B5 Vagcom registry type of thing... Coding for certain controllers and what the codings mean... Not everything is listed on Ross-tech or the "free version" of the Bentley that is floating around... I also want to make a list of what measuring blocks to use when having certain problems... Like if someone has a boost leak, what blocks to measure and how... Post in here if you want to help... I want to try and keep it in an easy and readable format so maybe one person writes the stuff but multiple will submit information... I will collect the info and post it as it comes up!

[oneighty]

great idea! I wouldnt be much help yet as Im just learning the ins and outs myself, but I cant wait to see how this pans out.

[Ewok_Fetus]

Well, I have a sample of how I want it to look... Let me know if it is noob friendly... Below... \/\/\/\/

Listed by Controller Number


01 - Engine

Coding - 07

ECU coding is pretty straight forward and not too many options for this. The only real thing to change is whether the engine is mated to an automatic transmission or a manual transmission or if equipped with ABS or ESP. Coding is as follows.

00XXX - The first two digits apply to the country.
*16 is the only available option for those in the USA

XX0XX - The third digit codes the ECU for what drive and options you have
*0 states FWD with ABS
*2 states Quattro with ABS
*5 states FWD with Anti-Slip Regulation/Electronic Stability Program (ASR/ESP)
*7 states Quattro with ESP

XXX0X - The fourth digit states which transmission you are equipped with
*0 is for 5 speed manual transmission
*5 is for 01V automatic transmission

XXXX0 - The last digit will state which vehicle the ECU is installed in.
*1 states installed in Audi A4

EX: A manual, FWD with ASR, A4 will have a coding of 16501



Measuring Blocks - 08

Measuring blocks are one of the most useful things for finding problems with your vehicle. They can locate a bad MAF, oxygen sensor, let you know of possible boost leaks, fuel mixture and other things. For the engine measuring blocks, there is almost too much to list and explain. However, Ross-Tech was kind enough to do this for us! So, here is the list from Ross-Tech's website. If someone wants to take this and do some homework and list everything, feel free and I will post it. But for now, this is what we have.

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/index.html



Adaptation - 10

If you ever replace/remove your throttle body, battery, ecu or pedal cluster or remove any battery connections, you will have to do a throttle body adaptation for the car to run at it's best. This applies to DBW and nDBW vehicles as some may tell you otherwise. To perform a throttle body adaptation there are a couple of ways. One with VAGCOM and one without. Without VAGCOM, make sure your battery is charged to at least 12V and coolant temp is not below 10 degrees C or above 95 degrees C. Place your key in the ignition, do not turn the car on OR touch the pedals. Turn the key to the "on" position and wait for about 30 seconds. The downside for doing it this way is that there is no way to tell if the adaptation was successful. That is why most people do it with VAGCOM.

Though it is not under the adaptation block, I will still stick it here.

Throttle Body Adaptation:

Turn the key on but do not start the car.

01 - Engine
Measuring Blocks - 08
Group - 060 (some nDBW cars may be 98)
Go
Switch to basic settings

Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in basic mode for about 30 seconds, then switch back to normal settings and you're all set.

Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!


If your engine is a little rough at idle you can actually set the idle speed. It may and or may not make the idle a bit more comfortable, you will just have to play arond with it and set your own value for your comfort.

Idle Speed Adaptation:

With engine warmed up, at idle:

01 - Engine
Adaptation - 10
Enter channel 01
Enter an adaptation value between 124 and 132
Save

(May require a Login of 01283 or 11463, depending on year or model)

[oneighty]

looks like a good start, I understand it, has a similar feel to this short guide Ive been using:
http://www.mjbmotorsport.com/datalog.html

[le91688]

I still am very unclear on what vagcom is/does. All i know is it is for sale for like 200$ and includes software and a cable...

[biketsai]

There are alot of things on Wiki Ross-tech too btw.

[GetBoosted84]

How-To: Make your windows go up and down automatically

35-Central Locks: -- KWP-1281
VAG-COM Works fine (note: pre-'97 A4's may not have this module).

Recode locking options

[Select]
[35 - Cent. Locks]
[Recode - 07]
Enter the coding below
[Do It!]

Write down the existing coding for future reference.

A4 pre-1998 with Delta radio and anti-theft system
Standard Coding: 03468

A4 pre-1998 with Delta radio, anti-theft system and keyless entry
Standard Coding: 12172

A4 1998+ with Concert/Symphony radio and anti-theft system
Standard Coding: 03340

S4, A4 1998+ with Concert/Symphony radio, anti-theft system and keyless entry
Standard Coding: 16140

Add the following options to your coding number:

+64 Windows up, sunroof close, and windows down with remote.
-04 One touch unlock of all 4 doors and trunk
-1024 Remove horn honk when arming
+32 Auto lock/unlock of doors (Doors lock at 15 mph and unlock when key is removed)

So, if you want to have a 1999 A4 with Concert radio and anti-theft system and keyless entry, and you want to add window control with the remote along with auto-lock, then:
add 03340+64+32= 03436


Source

[Ewok_Fetus]

There are alot of things on Wiki Ross-tech too btw.

LOL! I take it you haven't been there? Over 1/2 the stuff is incomplete or does not exist or is incorrect... Go there sometime!

[Nebone]

I remember there was an option to change languages. Does anyone have the recode values?

Also, how do I do TB Alignment on NDBW cars w/ VAG?

[Ewok_Fetus]

I remember there was an option to change languages. Does anyone have the recode values?

Also, how do I do TB Alignment on NDBW cars w/ VAG?

Instrument cluster
Adaptation - 10
Ch 04

00001 - German
00002 - English
00003 - French
00004 - Italian
00005 - Spanish
00006 - Portuguese

[Nebone]

I'd say start the thread and always keep updating it w/o people replying to it. People can supply ideas and vag options here.

So how about that TB alignment. My buddy has a 98 and has a code tor TB etc.

[kextyn]

I'd say start the thread and always keep updating it w/o people replying to it. People can supply ideas and vag options here.

So how about that TB alignment. My buddy has a 98 and has a code tor TB etc.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. A drive by cable throttle body can't be "adapted" electronically unless Audi put some sort of electronic tensioner on it. You would have to manually adjust the tension on the cable.

[Ewok_Fetus]

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. A drive by cable throttle body can't be "adapted" electronically unless Audi put some sort of electronic tensioner on it. You would have to manually adjust the tension on the cable.

You are wrong! The car still has a Throttle position sensor on it... That is what needs to be adapted...

Oh and Nebone...

It is the same procedure as above only it might be Chn 98 and not 60... Try both of them... It will say something about throttle body adaptation in the blocks...

[kextyn]

My bad, I was under the impression that the adaptation is just to make sure the throttle body is opening correctly with the electronic throttle.

[CONTROL ONE]

Sorry to bring this up from a few months ago, but what is the correct way to cycle the abs module with vag-com after doing brake work?

[bassed]

I still am very unclear on what vagcom is/does. All i know is it is for sale for like 200$ and includes software and a cable...

ROSS-TECH All diagnostics, codes, logging etc... APR ECUX gets a better sampling rate and has more logging capabilities, but I won't get into that as I am still debating on grabbing it.

Topic at Hand:

Modules on B5 VAG-COM can connect with:
Specific Modules:

01-Engine: -- KWP-1281
VAG-COM works well with all engines available in the U.S. and most engines that users have tested in overseas markets.

Idle Speed Adaptation:

With engine warmed up, at idle:

[Select]
[01 engine]
[Adaptation - 10]
Enter channel 01
Enter an adaptation value between 124 and 132
[Save]

(May require a Login of 01283 or 11463, depending on year or model)

Throttle Body Adaptation:

Turn the key on but do not start the car.

[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Enter Group 060 (may be Group 098 on some cable-throttle cars)
[Go!]
[Switch to basic settings]

Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB
adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in basic mode for about 30 seconds, then switch back to normal settings and you're all set.

Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!

02-Auto Trans : -- KWP-1281
VAG-COM works fine

Recoding Tiptronic:

In the newer cars, there are coding options for "Old" vs "New" "Tiptronic strategy". The "New" stategy (introduced in 2000 I think) is much more "automatic" than the old. To get the "Old Tiptronic strategy" where it won't downshift unless you come to a complete stop, I believe you have to change the coding in the following manner:

[Select]
[02 - Auto Trans]
[Recode - 07]
Enter the coding below
[Do It!]

Write down the original coding for future reference.

Look at the fourth digit in the coding (Cylinders):

0 or 1 - "New-style Tiptronic"
2 - "Old-style Tiptronic"

Look at the fifth digit in the coding (Market version):

1 - "Rest of world, quattro"
2 - "USA, quattro"
3 - "Rest of world, FronTrak"
4 - "USA, FronTrak"

So, for a USA model A4 quattro, if the original coding is 00002, and you want to change to the "Old-style Tiptronic" strategy, change the coding to 00022.

PS: As always, you play with stuff like this at your own risk. The "old" strategy is documented by VW only for "testing" and they explictly say that the car should be recoded the way it was before giving it back to the customer.

03-ABS Brakes: -- KWP-1281
VAG-COM works fine

08-HVAC: -- KWP-1281
VAG-COM works fine

15-Airbags: -- KWP-1281
VAG-COM works fine

17-Instruments: -- KWP-1281
VAG-COM Works fine.

Immobilizer II Instructions:

Immobilizer III Instructions:

Note: US/Canada model Audi A4/S4 do not have Immobilizers.

Recode for warning lamps:

[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Recode - 07]
Write down the existing coding for future reference.
Enter 5-digit code from below
[Do It!]

Look at the first two digits in the coding. Add the values for the options together to get the correct coding.

00 - No available equipment
+01 - Brakepad wear sensor warning active
+02 - Seatbelt warning active
+04 - Washer fluid level warning active (may only work with pre-2000 models)
+16 - Navigation System (non-USA models)

Look at the third digit in the coding (Market version):

0 - "Germany" 24 hour clock
1 - "Rest of World" 24 hour clock
2 - "USA" 12 hour clock
3 - "Canada" 12 hour clock

Look at the fourth digit in the coding (Cylinders):

4 - 4-cylinder
6 - 6-cylinder

Look at the fifth digit in the coding (Distance impulse multiplier):

0 - TDI Engine (non-USA models)
2 - Non-turbo Gasoline engine
4 - Turbocharged engine

So, if you want to have Seatbelt warning and washer fluid warning only in a 1999 Canadian A4 2.8, (add 00+02+04 = 06),3,6,2 = 06362.

Change Language Displayed:

[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Adaptation - 10]
Enter channel 04

The available languages are :

00001 - German
00002 - English
00003 - French
00004 - Italian
00005 - Spanish
00006 - Portuguese

[Save]

Resetting Service Reminder Intervals:

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/audi_sri.html

22-AWD * Purely Mechanical!
The quattro system in these cars is purely mechanical, no electronics at all. This address is used by the Haldex system used in transverse-engine cars like the TT, the A3, and various Golf/Bora models.

35-Central Locks: -- KWP-1281
VAG-COM Works fine (note: pre-'97 A4's may not have this module).

Recode locking options

[Select]
[35 - Cent. Locks]
[Recode - 07]
Enter the coding below
[Do It!]

Write down the existing coding for future reference.

A4 pre-1998 with Delta radio and anti-theft system
Standard Coding: 03468

A4 pre-1998 with Delta radio, anti-theft system and keyless entry
Standard Coding: 12172

A4 1998+ with Concert/Symphony radio and anti-theft system
Standard Coding: 03340

S4, A4 1998+ with Concert/Symphony radio, anti-theft system and keyless entry
Standard Coding: 16140

Add the following options to your coding number:

+64 Windows up, sunroof close, and windows down with remote.
-04 One touch unlock of all 4 doors and trunk
-1024 Remove horn honk when arming
+32 Auto lock/unlock of doors (Doors lock at 15 mph and unlock when key is removed)

So, if you want to have a 1999 A4 with Concert radio and anti-theft system and keyless entry, and you want to add window control with the remote along with auto-lock, then:
add 03340+64+32= 03436

37-Navigation: -- KWP-1281
VAG-COM Works fine.

45-Int. Monitor: -- KWP-1281
VAG-COM Works fine (note: This is tied in with 35-Central Locking so it may not work with pre-'97).

Sensitivity Adjustment

[Select]
[45 - Int. Monitor]
[Adaptation - 10]
Enter channel 01
Enter a value between 50-100 (it should be 100 by default) for the sensitivity of the ultra-sound sensors
[Save]

55-Headlight Range: KWP-1281
VAG-COM Seems to work fine.
Note this controller is only present on cars with Xenon headlights.

56- Radio: * KWP-1281
Please read the following pages pertaining to Audi Concert and Symphony Radios




Block 115 Graphing and Excel Macros

VAG-COM Locator <--If you don't have one and need one there's usually someone near by (Beer or a couple bucks is the right and nice thing to do as payment)

DTC Table <----Bookmark this one

DTC Search <---Bookmark also
Guide to logging MAF/BOOST/Timimg/FUEL:
Note: In order to have a log that will be valid, you will need to see at least a 3rd gear wide open throttle run from about 2500rpm until redline. Any lifting of the throttle during the run will result in inaccurate A/F numbers for the purpose of our evaluation.

Channel 1: Lambda Correction

This is a fuel correction table used by the computer when it senses the car richening and leaning. The numbers will be displayed as a percentage starting from 0% indicating NO fuel correction is needed. This means the car is doing what it should be. No fuel is having to be added or removed to maintain harmony. The computer can correct for these rich and lean conditions up to 25% or so. Note that seeing numbers higher than 0 does not necessarily mean your car is running dangerously rich or lean just because of a little correction. Positive numbers displayed indicate fuel is having to be added to compensate for lean conditions. Negative numbers indicate fuel is having to be removed to compensate for a richer condition. The lower the numbers the better. Numbers upwards of 20 indicate some real problems that bear much closer attention. Remember that lean is your ultimate enemy.

Channel 2: g/s MAF Sensor

This channel measures the grams per second or airflow taken into account by the MAF sensor. Input I have collected from tuners suggest that this is not a direct measure and depends on other sensors, so programming may be able to affect the g/s independent of changes to actual airflow. Nevertheless, while this may not be a reading that can completely state the airflow your car is taking in, it can provide a good estimate. This is a great log to look at if you suspect a common failure, the dying MAF sensor. On a chipped car one would expect MAF numbers to increase linearly as the car approaches redline. Your highest numbers will be seen at or near redline and are likely to be in the neighborhood of 160-180 g/s. Low numbers at redline such as 120 g/s are a good indicator your MAF is on the way out. Codes may not be thrown at this point. Terribly low or NO readings means she is dead.

Channel 20: Timing Retard for Each Cylinder

This channel is very straight forward. You should see a field of 0s everywhere. The number 0 in each of the cylinder boxes indicates NO timing retard is taking place. This means no timing is having to be removed by the computer as it senses knock or leanness. Now, what if you see some random numbers like "1.5” and "3” every once in awhile? This should be fine. If you were a tweaker, ideally you would want to find that point where you are able to use the most timing without triggering problems. Since most people do not mess with timing adjustments, we want to see as close to zero as possible though. Timing retard of greater than "6” would have me worried and I would want some further investigation and adjustments made.

Examples:

CAR RUNNING TOO MUCH TIMING

RPM CYL 1 CYL 2 CYL 3 CYL 4
2500 0 0 0 0
2750 0 0 0 0
3000 0 0 0 0
3250 3 0 1.5 4
3500 3 3 4 4
3750 4 6 6 6
4000 3 0 3 4
4250 6 6 6 6
4500 6 6 6 6
4750 6 4 6 4
5000 8 6 8 4
5250 0 4 6 8
5500 6 6 6 6
5750 8 4 6 6
6000 6 6 6 4
6250 8 8 8 8
6500 8 6 6 6
6750 6 6 6 6


CAR RUNNING AGGRESSIVE TIMING (performance tuned)

RPM CYL 1 CYL 2 CYL 3 CYL 4 Retard
2500 0 0 0 0
2750 0 0 0 0
3000 0 0 0 0
3250 0 0 0 0
3500 0 1.5 0 0
3750 3 0 0 1.5
4000 0 0 3 0
4250 1.5 1.5 3 3
4500 3 3 3 3
4750 1.5 3 1.5 1.5
5000 3 3 6 3
5250 0 1.5 3 0
5500 3 3 1.5 1.5
5750 3 4 3 1.5
6000 1.5 3 1.5 4
6250 3 3 3 3
6500 4 3 3 3
6750 1.5 3 1.5 3

CAR RUNNING VERY SAFE TIMING

RPM CYL 1 CYL 2 CYL 3 Cyl 4 Retard
2500 0 0 0 0
2750 0 0 0 0
3000 0 0 0 0
3250 0 0 0 0
3500 0 0 0 0
3750 0 0 0 1.5
4000 0 0 0 0
4250 0 0 0 0
4500 0 0 0 0
4750 1.5 0 0 0
5000 0 0 0 0
5250 0 1.5 0 0
5500 0 0 0 0
5750 0 0 0 0
6000 0 0 0 0
6250 0 0 0 0
6500 0 0 0 0
6750 0 0 0 0


Channel 31: Lambda Reading or A/F Ratio

This value is particularly important to be viewed and interpreted only when the car is under full throttle input as lifting up on the throttle will result in funky numbers. Take your log in third gear (or higher if your local authorities will allow) from 2500rpm or so until redline. The values you will see are: "1” = 14:1 ratio, ".85” = 12:1 ratio, ".75” = 10:1 ratio. A car that runs 14:1 (lambda value of about .95) all the way up to redline on increased boost is running a bit lean. Conversely, a car that is running 11:1 (lambda value of about .80) from idle to redline is running a bit rich. Remember that lean is your ultimate enemy. Running too lean for too long will spell disaster for the motor. It is ok for making power, but it is not ok for protecting the turbo and motor from failure. Ideally you would like to see the A/F pass linearly from the factory 14.7:1 at idle towards 13:1 in the mid rpms (3500rpm or so) to at least 12:1 at redline. This would show a car that is getting good fuel mileage under easy driving, but richens up nicely as you wind it out under full throttle to redline. This would make you feel at ease driving the car under high load conditions at high speeds (freeway cruising at 120mph) or using the car for frequent track days.

This would be nice:

RPM Lambda
2500 .99
2750 .95
3000 .95
3250 .95
3500 .90
3750 .90
4000 .90
4250 .85
4500 .85
4750 .85
5000 .85
5250 .85
5500 .85
5750 .85
6000 .80
6250 .80
6500 .80
6750 .80

Channel 34: EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperatures)

Pretty straight forward here and a great channel to use to give you the heads up that other things are going wrong. This monitors the exhaust gas temperatures of the car. You want to see what the limits are here and it will take some beating on the car to find it. When the car is still warming up, your readings may not accurately reflect just how high these temps can get. Take your car out for some spirited full boost runs, then start logging in the normal 3rd gear WOT manner. Exhaust gas temperatures at 900 degrees Celsius and below are common for our engines when heavily boosted. This sensor appears to be only accurate up to 950 degrees Celsius or so. If you see readings creeping up this high, you have a great indicator that something is not right on your car and your engine is not happy with you. Running too high of temps for too long will spell disaster.

Channel 115: Requested Boost and Actual Boost

This is a very helpful channel for diagnosing boost leaks, trying to figure out why your car went into limp mode, and seeing if the software or hardware (electronic or manual boost controllers) are doing what they should be. This channel displays the boost requested by the computer (requested boost) in the first column and the boost actually made by the turbo (actual boost) in the second column. The readings you will see here can be misleading. First, you should know that the numbers you will see are not yet corrected for atmospheric pressure (about 1040mbar at sea level). The atmospheric pressure seen at the boost sensor is tough to estimate with complete precision, but I have found that subtracting 1000mbar from the numbers gets you close enough to actual boost unless you are living at 20,000 feet above sea level. The next thing you have probably noticed about these numbers are that they are displayed in mbar instead of psi like we are all used to. Well, this won‼sup>TM</sup>t be a problem thanks to the metric system. 1000mbar = 1 bar and 1 bar = 14.5psi. There you have it.

So, can we all figure out what boost level in psi this car is requesting and making at 3000rpm?

RPM Requested Boost Actual Boost
2500……2100…..1800
2750……2200……1950
3000……2200……2250
3250……2200……2200
3500……2200……2100

The correct answer is…

The computer is requesting 1.2 bar of boost at 3000rpm. This can also be expressed as 17.4psi.

The turbo is boosting 1.25 bar of boost at 3000rpm. This can also be expressed as 18.1psi.

So why are the above numbers important to us other than acting as a boost guage to entertain us? Well, as you can imagine, if you had a boost leak you would have a car that is requesting the correct boost but you would see very little in the actual boost column. In the case that you had just installed your new little boost controller or N75 valve you could do some logging to find that your actual boost was far exceeding your computers' requested boost numbers causing your car to go into limp mode due to it's sensing an "overboost” condition. For those of us who dare to run a turbo that was not designed specifically for the software they are using, this is a great way to see why it is not working out for you. For example, the boost maps on a K03 will show the ECU requesting max boost at around 3000rpms (this is a small turbo that makes its boost low in the rpm range). Now if you were to throw on a Garrett gt28r or T28 turbo or even larger you would see that the computer will still request the max boost at 3000rpm, but the turbo is not capable of making it‼sup>TMs max boost until closer to 3800rpm leaving you with an  eunderboost” condition.

NOTE: The sensor will only measure up to 2540mbar including atmospheric pressure. This means that if you are running more than 1.5bar or 21.75psi of boost this sensor will not measure beyond it. Both values will show maxed out at 2540mbar.



Audiworld gets direct support from Andy at Ross-Tech (the creator of VAG-COM) probably the most useful place to find info






I didn't come up with all this on my own, cutting and pasting and linking is all I will take credit for.

[gointoscott]

This is an excellent thread. I think every section should have a vag-com sticky

I have a b5 S4 and want to know if its possible to code the values for maf vaules down some because I'm getting an error code 16487 maf max pressure.
My abs and esc light come on under full boost and when I let off the gas they go out. I read this is because the maf values are maxing out. I read this can be caused by boost leak (I swear I have checked everything and its button'd up tighter than a submarine) I just changed the brake booster which was leaking a little under full boost, but other then that it feels real strong (boosts to 17-18 psi)

I also read that someone stated they lowered theri maf settings so they didnt get higher then the injection timing then it wouldnt throw that code any more.

So can I lower my maf values with vag com? or I guess maybe try raising the injection timing some?

Please help. My post is below with the problem:

Thanks


http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=252471

[zeroG]

I remember reading something not too long ago, but don't know if I understood it right. I thought I had read that there's a code to turn off the yellow turn signal lights until you actually use the turn signals. That way you won't have the ugly yellow light on all the time. Does anyone remember seeing this anywhere and know where I can find it again. Or am I wrong about it? I tried searching for it again but I can't come across it.

[oneighty]

That is for the B6 I believe. If you want to get rid of the from corner marker lights just cut the 12v wire to them but leave the blinker wire and ground.

[zeroG]

That is for the B6 I believe. If you want to get rid of the from corner marker lights just cut the 12v wire to them but leave the blinker wire and ground.

Oh alright, I don't want to cut anything though. I found a neater way a long time ago that I did to my BMW. I just put a small piece of tape on the bulb itself over the contact for the 12v. I'll see to do the same on this one I guess.