Most effective drivetrain mod?

[alias747]

Maybe this has been covered before, but if it has the search won't show it to me, I tried!

Anyway, I have been noticing that my drive train is getting a lot of slop in it and I decided I need to get something to fix this. What would be the best/most effective mod for this? DTS? I'm not sure how much I am willing to spend yet, I guess it depends on how much it will help my situation. Thanks for the help guys!

[andream88]

034 Snub Mount+bracket

[tike0rz]

I'd say a DTS and snub mount worked wonders for my car.

[AudiSportB5S4]

for sure the 034 snub and bracket, 034 motor and tranny, more so tranny in your case. and then a big one is what exorcet brought up lately with the "shifter crisps" lol, apikol rear diff mount. dont do the DTS until you get those things.

[The_Jerbel]

If you want even "crisper shifts," use a Stern power ring instead of the Apikol. You will hear a little extra drive train noise though...

[AudiSportB5S4]

lol i was saying it like that jordan because thats how exorcet had the title of his thread ;) LOL

[alias747]

Ok, my car already has a some sort of snub mount, not sure which kind. So I should be ok there right?

Then I have Rs4 motor mounts.

So I should do the apikol first and then the DTS or no?

[The_Jerbel]

Either way, they'll both help. If your stock center diff mount is dead, then upgrade to the apikol. If your stock mount is fine, then you'll benefit much more from the DTS.

[RolledMySTi]

Ok, my car already has a some sort of snub mount, not sure which kind. So I should be ok there right?

Then I have Rs4 motor mounts.

So I should do the apikol first and then the DTS or no?

I would do the DTS first. DTS plus snub really helped my car.

[exorcet]

lol i was saying it like that jordan because thats how exorcet had the title of his thread ;) LOL

haha

alias -- if you already have some slop it wouldn't hurt to do the apikol first. it will make a noticeable difference if you current diff mount is worn.

the dts would be the last thing i would do after all other mounts/snub, etc.

[ny02s4]

DTS and snub.

[alias747]

I was doing some searching and read some stuff about people not getting that great of results with the DTS, including Marc. So I don't know what to think.

I think I am going to pull the trigger on the rear diff mount and tranny mounts though. But I am wondering what the difference between the ASP mount and 034 one is? The ASP one is like 40 bucks cheaper, thats why I ask. Also, is the 034 the best mounts for the money?

I don't think I am going to do the motor mount, I already have RS4 mounts so I think that will be fine. And I have a snub mount already. Then if down the road sometime I might add a DTS if I think its needed.

[The_Jerbel]

Which diff mounts are you planning on doing, the rear diff or the center diff?

[alias747]

I didnt even know you could get a center diff mount! lol So that answers your question i guess!

[Sleeeper X]

Center Diffmount + stub

[alias747]

Whats a stub? And where do you get a center diff mount? Never saw one on 034 or ASP.

[The_Jerbel]

The ASP mount is the center diff mount. The rear diff mounts are sold by Stern in pairs.

[Blu_Bee5]

I agree with the crew...DTS is very important...the only one I could find back in the day was AWE but many companies have them and I have not delved into it but there quite a few to choose from these days.

On a slightly different note, what do you all think of the Stasis center and rear diff mods???

Good luck.

[alias747]

The ASP mount is the center diff mount. The rear diff mounts are sold by Stern in pairs.

So even though this says it's a rear differential mount, its actually a center mount? That doesn't make sense...

http://www.autospeed.us/store.php?cr...on=show_detail

Man I am so confused on what to get now. I don't want to get crazy with it, just a little improvement with shifting and help eliminate the big clunk when I let off the accelerator when cruising.

[sumpsfast]

Either way, they'll both help. If your stock center diff mount is dead, then upgrade to the apikol. If your stock mount is fine, then you'll benefit much more from the DTS.

Jordan, you are a bit skewed in your replies. The DTS serves a different purpose than the Apikol rear diff mount and subframe bushings. The diff mount itself almost completely eliminates the driveline slack or "clunk" you feel when you press the accelerator on and off, because:

a) It uses a firmer "poly" insert which has a carefully selected durometer made to eliminate excess driviline movement without creating unwanted vibrations. You can also opt for the firmer red bushings if you have a purpose built car.

b) The bushing sits flush in comparison to stock and eliminates the gap between where the stock rubber bushing stops and where it meets the chassis.

The DTS helps to eliminate the torsional transmission movement. I would say throw in the Apikol diff mount and see how awesome of a job it does, and then you can accompany it with the subframe bushings, DTS, 034 mounts etc. Mounts are a pain to install if you are not dropping the motor and the snub mounts really do very little in terms of eliminating slop unless your stocker is trashed. It is however a great idea if you are doing the timing belt to replace the snub while you're in there.

[sumpsfast]

So even though this says it's a rear differential mount, its actually a center mount? That doesn't make sense...

http://www.autospeed.us/store.php?cr...on=show_detail

Man I am so confused on what to get now. I don't want to get crazy with it, just a little improvement with shifting and help eliminate the big clunk when I let off the accelerator when cruising.

No, this is the rear diff mount, there are also rear subframe bushings. The center diff lies between the drive shaft and the transmission. Stasis makes an upgraded center diff but there are no center diff mounts.

Also, if you call up Avalon Motorsports Brian said that he would match the Autospeed pricing on the Apikol diff mounts for a limited time

[alias747]

No, this is the rear diff mount, there are also rear subframe bushings. The center diff lies between the drive shaft and the transmission. Stasis makes an upgraded center diff but there are no center diff mounts.

Also, if you call up Avalon Motorsports Brian said that he would match the Autospeed pricing on the Apikol diff mounts for a limited time

Thanks for all the great info sumps! Is there a particular reason to go with the Apikol one from Avalon over the ASP one?

[sumpsfast]

Thanks for all the great info sumps! Is there a particular reason to go with the Apikol one from Avalon over the ASP one?

Well, to be honest they have been amazingly popular and there have been some awesome reviews here and over on the other forum. The durometer of the bushing was selected after many trials so that there would be no unwanted vibrations, and I have seen a few reports of this occurring with other mounts. The fit and finish of the Apikol line is also superb. I would go where you can get excellent service as well.

[Militant-Grunt]

I had the entire 034 setup on my car (Snub, engine mounts, tranny mounts and rear diff mount) I had no slop, crisp smooth shifts. I highly recommend them as long as they are the street density version, I had the motorsport track mount and it gave the car a ton of vibration.

[The_Jerbel]

Jordan, you are a bit skewed in your replies. The DTS serves a different purpose than the Apikol rear diff mount and subframe bushings. The diff mount itself almost completely eliminates the driveline slack or "clunk" you feel when you press the accelerator on and off, because:

a) It uses a firmer "poly" insert which has a carefully selected durometer made to eliminate excess driviline movement without creating unwanted vibrations. You can also opt for the firmer red bushings if you have a purpose built car.

b) The bushing sits flush in comparison to stock and eliminates the gap between where the stock rubber bushing stops and where it meets the chassis.

The DTS helps to eliminate the torsional transmission movement. I would say throw in the Apikol diff mount and see how awesome of a job it does, and then you can accompany it with the subframe bushings, DTS, 034 mounts etc. Mounts are a pain to install if you are not dropping the motor and the snub mounts really do very little in terms of eliminating slop unless your stocker is trashed. It is however a great idea if you are doing the timing belt to replace the snub while you're in there.

Believe me, I'm well aware of what the DTS, and various diff mounts do.

The reason that I said what I did, is that if the stock diff mount is still intact, you WON'T feel a big difference by installing a poly mount in there. The reason that most feel a big difference, is that after 1000's of miles of launching, hard shifting, etc, the rubber mount tends to get ripped up, allowing the drivetrain to have a lot of slack and "clunk" against the chassis of the car. IF his stock mount is still intact, then he will see a greater improvement in shifting by installing a DTS.

[The_Jerbel]

No, this is the rear diff mount, there are also rear subframe bushings. The center diff lies between the drive shaft and the transmission. Stasis makes an upgraded center diff but there are no center diff mounts.

Also, if you call up Avalon Motorsports Brian said that he would match the Autospeed pricing on the Apikol diff mounts for a limited time

You obviously are not aware of where the ASP/Apikol diff mount is located or what it is supporting. From what you posted here, you know where the center diff is located, so go and crawl under the car, remove your "rear diff mount" and tell me which part of the car is left unsupported. "Rear diff mount" is a misnomer, as in actuality, it is mounting the center diff to the car.

Do you know where the rear diff is located and what it's supported by (or what it's mounted to the subframe by)? The 2 poly mounts sold by stern, hence the name "rear diff mounts."

[sumpsfast]

Believe me, I'm well aware of what the DTS, and various diff mounts do.

The reason that I said what I did, is that if the stock diff mount is still intact, you WON'T feel a big difference by installing a poly mount in there. The reason that most feel a big difference, is that after 1000's of miles of launching, hard shifting, etc, the rubber mount tends to get ripped up, allowing the drivetrain to have a lot of slack and "clunk" against the chassis of the car. IF his stock mount is still intact, then he will see a greater improvement in shifting by installing a DTS.

Wrong. The stock mount bushing does not sit flush with the chassis, it bucks up and hits it as you press and release the gas pedal. Matter of fact, you can even see where the rubber bushing hits the chassis because it leaves a permanent mark. Even new there is a good amount of play.

[sumpsfast]

You obviously are not aware of where the ASP/Apikol diff mount is located or what it is supporting. From what you posted here, you know where the center diff is located, so go and crawl under the car, remove your "rear diff mount" and tell me which part of the car is left unsupported. "Rear diff mount" is a misnomer, as in actuality, it is mounting the center diff to the car.

Do you know where the rear diff is located and what it's supported by (or what it's mounted to the subframe by)? The 2 poly mounts sold by stern, hence the name "rear diff mounts."

Lol, I absolutely know where the rear diff is located. And I know where the "rear diff mount" is located, right in front of the rear diff, hence why it is called a REAR diff mount. The rear subframe bushings are located right behind the rear differential, which is NOT the center diff. The center differential is the Torsen differential located at the back portion of the transmission, several feet in front of the rear differential.

[The_Jerbel]

I give up with you. It's not worth the time it takes to type an explanation...

[sumpsfast]

I give up with you. It's not worth the time it takes to type an explanation...

[The_Jerbel]

Ok fine, I'll bite one more time, but that's it

Wrong. The stock mount bushing does not sit flush with the chassis, it bucks up and hits it as you press and release the gas pedal. Matter of fact, you can even see where the rubber bushing hits the chassis because it leaves a permanent mark. Even new there is a good amount of play.

I know. My statement still remains. He won't notice THAT much difference if his stock mount is intact.

BTW, the DTS DOES in fact solidify the mounting setup of the tranny and everything attached to it (ie, the center diff) to the chassis, more-so in fact, than the "rear diff mount" does.

[The_Jerbel]

Lol, I absolutely know where the rear diff is located. And I know where the "rear diff mount" is located, right in front of the rear diff, hence why it is called a REAR diff mount. The rear subframe bushings are located right behind the rear differential, which is NOT the center diff. The center differential is the Torsen differential located at the back portion of the transmission, several feet in front of the rear differential.

If you unbolt the rear diff from the "rear subframe" as you call it, it will hang there suspended by the axles. The two bushings that are press-fitted inside the rear diff MOUNT (what you call the subframe) are there to MOUNT the rear diff to the car.

Ok, I'm done now.

[sean1.8t]

all i really have energy for in this thread is to tell the people with DTS's or about to buy one. pick up the energy solutions upgraded mount for it. the AWE/ASP mount that comes with them are garbage.

i didn't notice any difference when i originally put on my AWE DTS. but when i changed out the mount, it was a night and day difference

[The_Jerbel]

^^2nd.

[sumpsfast]

Ok fine, I'll bite one more time, but that's it



I know. My statement still remains. He won't notice THAT much difference if his stock mount is intact.

BTW, the DTS DOES in fact solidify the mounting setup of the tranny and everything attached to it (ie, the center diff) to the chassis, more-so in fact, than the "rear diff mount" does.

Haha ok Jordan, you are correct, the drivetrain stabilizer bolsters the transmision at the front mounting points. The rear diff mount is completely different and serves a different purpose. Anyone who cares to jack up their car and look can plainly see what is what. Leave it at that!

[sumpsfast]

If you unbolt the rear diff from the "rear subframe" as you call it, it will hang there suspended by the axles. The two bushings that are press-fitted inside the rear diff MOUNT (what you call the subframe) are there to MOUNT the rear diff to the car.

Ok, I'm done now.

NOTE: THE REAR SUBFRAME CROSS MEMBER IS DIFFERENT THAN THE REAR DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT IS DIFFERENT THAN THE REAR DIFFERENTIAL.. . As shown in the picture here:



Done.

[alias747]

Ok.. alright... so I should go with the DTS then with a different mount? Where do I get the energy solutions mount anyway?

[The_Jerbel]

Here:
Instructions
do a google search for it and you'll find it easy enough...

[alias747]

Yeah I typed in "energy solutions" with other words and didnt get anything on google. But now that I see it is energy suspension in the guide i probably would have found it. Thanks though!

I think this is the route i'll go then, ASP with this mount and see what happens. Thanks for all your help guys!~

[sumpsfast]

Ok fine, I'll bite one more time, but that's it



I know. My statement still remains. He won't notice THAT much difference if his stock mount is intact.

BTW, the DTS DOES in fact solidify the mounting setup of the tranny and everything attached to it (ie, the center diff) to the chassis, more-so in fact, than the "rear diff mount" does.

Do you have one of these in your car? Have you ever driven a car with just the Apikol diff mount installed, honestly? Just curious what you base your statements on ....