Originally Posted by
B6Lovin
ok... we all know they suck for larger turbo applications, go external, blahblahblah
that's not of any importance here, so keep the opinions to yourself. kthx
anyways, lets assume that hypothetically - someone with say... a GTRS eliminator was considering upgrading to a 3071R-WG (the bastard child of a love-hate relationship between a 2871R and a 3071R)
would swapping the waste gate actuator from the GTRS be feasible? Does anyone know what the set spring tension is in it? (7psi?) and would it be more worthwhile to upgrade to a 14psi actuator if it is indeed a 7psi on the GTRS.
while we're on the subject, if you're running a MBC or EBC (which effectively reduces the amount of boost the waste gate actuator sees) would it even matter which one you had?
this is all hypothetical of course...
(SOMEONE BUY MY GTRS!!!!!!!!)
Hypothetically speaking why are you interested in changing turbos already? What exhaust manifold are you planning on running?
FWIW the Eliminator series turbos come with a 1.0 bar wastegate actuator that can be tuned a little higher or a little lower depending on the tension you put on it (pre-load).
You cannot just change your actuator to the 30-71WG because the arm on the eliminator series turbos is modified (shortened by ATP) and does not work correctly on the full sized T-2 or T-3 flanged turbo.
If you are planning on running between 14 and 30 pounds of boost, the internally gated turbo will do you just fine, you will not see boost creep with it because NOBODY runs 9-12 pounds of boost on the 1.8T, it just does not make power at those levels.
There are a few choices out there for T3 flanged manifolds for the 1.8T Longitudinal motor but they all have the highlights and drawbacks.
1.) ATP style cast iron manifold: Works well, the turbo will fit on the side of the motor however you will be replacing studs all of the time because they break. The reason they break is because the turbo is heavy and the studs support the full weight of the turbo, no all 4 studs support it but rather 2 studs because of the size of the holes in relationship to the size of the studs. Log style cast manifolds are not good for high RPM applications because the exhaust pulses begin to cancel each other out and send the EGTs through the roof too.
2.) Tubular style manifolds: All tubular manifolds wil eventually crack, it is a fact of life, get over it. The main advantage is when there is a low merge angle on the collector that allows the exhaust to flow more freely at higher RPMs which gives you higher output. Everyone that I know who runs a tubular low merge angle manifold feels it performs better at higher RPMs. I might be a bit biased but I feel the Full-Race manifolds are the best on the market right now.
Feel free to call me any time if you have questions.
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A 7psi spring is 7psi and can only increase boost but not lower it. I am running off the WG spring in my car for the time and get 5-7 psi, I have an ext. WG but that doesn't matter. All a MBC or EBC does is limit/control the amount of boost the act. sees.
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