Type II cosmetic is the pretty stuff that most think of as anodized aluminum. You can get any color you want and it seals the surface to prevent oxidation and the associated loss of efficiency. It is usually .0003-.0006" thick with a surface buildup about 2/3 that thick. The other 1/3 is soaked into the aluminum. Unlike paint or powdercoat you can't remove anodize without removing some aluminum too. That is part of what makes it great for this application.
Type III is hard coat or hard anodize and is a little thicker (still about.001" thick) which offers more protection from the elements and road hazards but still isn't thick enough to cause a problem. Not as many anodizers are adept with hardcoat and results may vary.
Your best bet is to call anodizers until you find one that is doing black or gray or titanium color or whatever and add your intercooler to that job.
One other thing. Billet and forged aluminum is beautiful when anodized. Cast aluminum is often dull and sometimes splotchy especially with hard coat.
Usually hard coat is a gray that has a pea soup tint under some lighting. These are 30"x60" cast MIC-6 aluminum tooling plates that were hard coated. They held a tricky truncated minor (dowel through a threaded hole) tolerance to +/-.0002 but the plates were still different shades. Click on the pic for a bigger shot.
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http://omnistructures.com/reference/index.html
Or see them hiding behind the kuka.
http://omnistructures.com/graphics/R...60_X_120_2.jpg
This set are 24x24" plates with standard black type II.
http://omnistructures.com/graphics/REF_cm_iso.jpg
This is all type II. Custom mix bright bronze on the main tooling and black on the 24" square tooling plate. It can be some pretty stuff.
http://omnistructures.com/graphics/REF_DTS_14.jpg
http://omnistructures.com/reference/dts.html
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