The solution was to make a new floor which we had to do anyway because the OEM floor is not strait but undulates with up to 2 inches in depth differences in some spot. To get what I would say is an acceptable leg position for me as the main driver we raised the floor by 4 to 6 inches depending on where you measured from the OEM floor.
So here we go…
You can see that attaching the master cylinders to the pedal set add about 3.25 inches in length overall. We also need room back there to add the fittings for the hard lines for both the front and rear brakes and for the stainless steel line for the clutch.
To make the new floor we used a 6061 aluminium plate a ¼ inch thick and we cut it to the shape required for it to fit in place.
To secure the aluminium plate in place we welded a right angle of steel to the tranny tunnel.
We did the same thing on the left side approximately where the OEM dead pedal used to be located.
Now to make sure the new floor wasn’t going to flex and move under heavy braking activity we braced the end closest to the driver with another right angle piece of steel that is welded to the rocker panel side and the tranny tunnel side. We also used a square tubing in the middle welded to the floor to avoid any vertical movement.
Everything was checked to be level and properly fitting before the final assembly.
Once the fitting was successful and the aluminium plate removed the whole assembly was cleaned and primed.
Once the primer had dried, several coats of red paint were added.
Here’s what the semi finished product looks like with the pedals in place.
Reply With Quote
Mod List: APR Oct 91, Oct 93, Oct 100. // CF Interior Trim by 
Bookmarks