help please, car won't start!?

[suju82]

1.8tqm, k04 with chip. Car has been sitting for about two months or so. I started it the first time a couple weeks after it had been sitting and it started fine. Then I started it a second time about a month after and it ran for about six minutes and then all of a sudden it shut down. so i started it again and it ran for a minute or so and shut down again so i let it stay off as i had to do something else. Now started it the third time after a week and a bit and it wouldn't start. It was idling everytime i left it on and the whole time it was parked i left the negative from battery disconnected. When i started it and left it on ignition for 60 seconds for it to learn the position and it kept making a clicking noise from under the hood and from around the speedo and fuse area. I changed the plugs and made sure there's pressure coming from the fuel pump. After i changed the plugs and cranked it a few times and it started but would only stay on for two seconds. Finally i reved once i heard it start and it stays on if i keep reving it but if i hold the gas at whatever rpm it shuts off. what could it be? any suggestions before i have to take it down to my mechanic? Car worked perfectly right before it was stored and I had the battery and alternator replaced a couple days before it was parked away.

[suju82]

when i kept reving the car it stayed on for a good few minutes. i didn't drive it around though.

[VTAudiA4]

Well the clicking is the starter. Its turning over so that cant be your problem. I think its your battery. I know you replaced it but I would double check it. Do a load test on it.

[suju82]

click noise is not the start as i'm not cranking it. i left it on ignition and it was making clicking noise from around the speedo and fuse are and under the hood i saw the little metal thing attached to black round piece on the throttle body moving left and right every few seconds. The battery is brand new and it's crank fine over and over. I don't know how to do a load test. it cranks and started by itself, so think it needs a boost.

[audiness]

a bad cell in the battery can cause weird issues, alternator might also be going bad

[VTAudiA4]

click noise is not the start as i'm not cranking it. i left it on ignition and it was making clicking noise from around the speedo and fuse are and under the hood i saw the little metal thing attached to black round piece on the throttle body moving left and right every few seconds. The battery is brand new and it's crank fine over and over. I don't know how to do a load test. it cranks and started by itself, so think it needs a boost.

Oh I thought you meant when you cranked the car. NVM

[aaronamerica]

I would def. check the battery, and then you may need to try and drive the car for a bit the car may need to adapt

[suju82]

I will try to drive the car for a few minutes around the block and see if it stays on. Problem is i have to constantly rev it to keep it on. If i hold the revs at 2000, 2800 or whatever it still shuts off. Should i try to vag the car while constantly reving it at parked position? I scanned it before changing the plugs with the key in the acc position and the only fault code i got was excessive comm address 08. I don't have the file with me right now as i'm at work.

[suju82]

ok i started it and vagged it the best i could while reving the engine. so here are the codes let me know what you guys think.

Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8D0 907 557 P
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT MOTR HS D00
Coding: 06201
Shop #: WSC 03023
4 Faults Found:
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18048 - Internal Contr. Module (EEPROM) Error
P1640 - 35-00 - -
17967 - Throttle Valve Control part (J338): Fault in basic settings
P1559 - 35-00 - -
17973 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Lower Stop not Reached
P1565 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0110 0101

Address 08 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8D0 820 043 N
Coding: 00040
Shop #: WSC 06335
Note: Excessive Comm Errors

[aaronamerica]

I assumming your batttery is low and you may need to do a throttle alignment

[djwimbo]

Pull your battery out and have an intelligent source charge and test it. Sitting like that isn't exactly good for batteries, but not horrible either. Just get it charged so you can eliminate that possibility.

Throttle body alignment maybe needed if it's DBW.
I know when I had my battery unhooked for a week while I was pulling my trans (the first time) it would start and die, repeatedly. I left it in "key on, engine off" for probably 5 mins and came back and it has worked fine ever since.

[suju82]

Ok i will try to do throttle adaption for about 5 min tonight as so far i've only done about 60 seconds. Key on engine off means two clicks forward where all the speedo lights are on but the engine is off right? Instead of pulling the battery can I hook it up to another idling car for like half hour and charge it?

[suju82]

"Throttle body alignment maybe needed if it's DBW."

what does dbw mean?

[kextyn]

"Throttle body alignment maybe needed if it's DBW."

what does dbw mean?

Drive (throttle) By Wire as opposed to cable.

[suju82]

Drive (throttle) By Wire as opposed to cable.

Ok thanx. I definitely don't have a DBW it's just cable.
I believe 2000 and up were DBW

[Mawhitey]

dbc need adaption too, try dissconecting the battery for 15 mins then reconnect. switch on the ignition without starting the car and leave it for 5 mins. Once thats done switch off and try and start as normal, then log in to vag-com and clear the codes

[suju82]

ok i will do the 5 min throttle position adaption. What about the battery. Can i charge it by hooking it up another idling car for like half hour or do i have to take it to the shop to get it charged up? Where should the needle be pointing when you turn the key to ignition without cranking it? I think it usually is around 14v half way between 12v and 16v.

[suju82]

ok so i came home reconnected the negative on battery and turn the ignition and waited two full minutes. Started the car and it started but few minutes later it shut off. Started it again and it took a few tries but it finally started and stayed on for almost twenty minutes before it shut off again. While it was on for twenty minutes and idling properly i vagged it again and here's what i got. Also when i checked measuring block it showed 13.6v while idling and holding it so i really doubt the battery is the problem.

Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8D0 907 557 P
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT MOTR HS D00
Coding: 06201
Shop #: WSC 03023
2 Faults Found:
17967 - Throttle Valve Control part (J338): Fault in basic settings
P1559 - 35-00 - -
17973 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Lower Stop not Reached
P1565 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0010 0101

Address 03 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 614 111 A
Component: ABS/EDS 5.3 QUATTRO D10
Coding: 0273004284
Shop #: BB 24334
No fault code found.

Address 08 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8D0 820 043 N
Coding: 00040
Shop #: WSC 06335
Note: Excessive Comm Errors

It wouldn't let me clear the engine codes. Also i didn't get these codes this time like i did last time.
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18048 - Internal Contr. Module (EEPROM) Error
P1640 - 35-00 - -

[suju82]

Anyone? Also should vag a car while it running or just in the ignition position without starting the car?

[suju82]

It's alive again. Just thought i'd let everyone know. As a last thing to do i bought a battery charger which was on sale for $20 and charged the car a couple hours and it's good. All the sparking noise i heard is gone and it just made a bit of click noise to adapt the throttle body the first time i reconnected it.