check engine light (MIL)

[truman]

Ok so, on the 17th, I picked up a 2004 Audi A4 1.8T from a dealership in woodland hills. I was in love. 4 years, and the car only has 35k miles. So I was pretty happy. The drving's been going fine, and I haven't been halling ass in it or anything, but yesterday, the check engine light came on when I was driving! So, I went home, shut the car off, waited a minute, and turned it back on. No check engine light. 3 hours later, I left the house, and everything was fine, but about 15 minutes into the drive, the light came on again. There are a couple things that I think might be contributing to this problem.

1. The car hasn't been driven for more than a test drive since Feb. 08
2. Ever since I got the car, the temperature outside has been past 100 F.

I don't know, but it seems like waking someone up and throwing hot coffee on them or something hahah. Seriously though, I'm realy bummed about this, I literally got this car days ago. Anyone have any ideas, because I'd rather not take it to get checked out. Thanks everyone.

[eg6siR]

take it back to where you bought it and make them fix it, im sure you still have factory warranty left

[evilgabbie]

or get someone with a vag cable and just read out the codes

[PRY4SNO]

If you've only had the car a couple days the dealership is obligated to fix the issue. Take it back and insist they fix it free of charge. Leave the car with them until they prove it's fixed and they demonstrate the cause of the issue. If they refuse, do not leave the General Manager's office until you have a full-value refund cheque in your hands. You are a paying customer and they have no valid reason to treat you as such.

Otherwise complain to a) local motor vehicle association (in my neck of the woods it's called AMVIC) b) Audi of America... AoA and, c) the local news. That'll teach 'em!

[El_Chapusca]

or get someone with a vag cable and just read out the codes

About how mouch would this cost the diagnostics?

[jaketone]

I have actually experienced something similar with my 02. The only difference between yours and my story would be that mine light came on once and then turned off. But I too have been having 100+ degree weather here which is why I suspect it has something to do with the weather.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=219445

[PRY4SNO]

I have actually experienced something similar with my 02. The only difference between yours and my story would be that mine light came on once and then turned off. But I too have been having 100+ degree weather here which is why I suspect it has something to do with the weather.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=219445

Just my two cents:

You have the advantage of having just bought the car. Take it back, and have ready a laundry list of other problems that they should have fixed in the first place to be remedied. If you like, pay the diagnostic fee at an indy shop (if you can't find anyone local either through personal contacts, or AW or AG or AZ to VAG your ride) to get a handle on everything wrong with the car. In doing so you're not being a bitchy customer... rather one who's informed of his rights and not willing to accept less. Would they have taken 90% of the agreed price of the vehicle and swallowed the hassle of the loss? Didn't think so. So why should you?

Otherwise get a refund and find a solid car. The last thing you want is a bitchy German mistress, unless you're financially independent... in which case wth are you doing driving an A4? LOL

[audipotential]

About how mouch would this cost the diagnostics?

Give or take 90 bucks but it shouldnt be anything for you

[truman]

Ok, so I brought it into the dealership. They ran diagnostics, and it's code "p1793," which is the Output Speed sensor. They said this could cost around 600 to get fixed, even though the car runs fine. Does anybody know anything about this?

[PRY4SNO]

It will cost nothing to fix or else you want your money back. Seriously.

I worked at a couple dealerships (a Toyota one then a Lexus one) for the sole purpose of learning what the hell goes on 'behind the scenes' and how to be a more well educated customer... IE not a sap.

You bought the vehicle in good faith that it was in running order and in under a week it's showing major (to the tune of $600) problems. It's their responsibility to ensure that the car is in running order, OR disclose to you the issues apparent. Have a look at your bill of sale and see if it says 'As Is' or not... that's the biggest thing. If not, they've implied a warranty, at least for a period of 3-5 days, more commonly one month or 1,000 miles.

Don't take that shit from them, it's bogus. If they make you nervous (hey, it happens!), call a lawyer and get a consultation... they're always free to start off with so you lose nothing except a bit of time in exchange for tactical information.

Hope this helps.

[04QuattroTurbo]

Was it a CPO? I bought mine the Saturday before you did, June 14th. The past few days it has been ~100 - 105 and I've driven it about as many times as you have. I've also done the APR Stage I flash. Mine is a CPO. I have a bumper to bumper up to 100,000 miles.

[truman]

You bought the vehicle in good faith that it was in running order and in under a week it's showing major (to the tune of $600) problems. It's their responsibility to ensure that the car is in running order, OR disclose to you the issues apparent. Have a look at your bill of sale and see if it says 'As Is' or not... that's the biggest thing. If not, they've implied a warranty, at least for a period of 3-5 days, more commonly one month or 1,000 miles.

The factory warranty that came with the car was a 4 year/50k mile warranty, covering everything. At this dealership, since the factory warranty had expired a few months prior, offered a 1 month coverall warranty. I opted to get the 6 year, 72k mile warranty that covers only drivetrain, transmission, engine, stuff like that (not windows, electronics, that stuff). This means that I don't have the warranty from the dealership anymore. Where am I now?

[jbrown7815]

Take it back to where you bough tit, and demand it is fixed. Simple as that, you shouldn't owe a dime.

[PRY4SNO]

The factory warranty that came with the car was a 4 year/50k mile warranty, covering everything. At this dealership, since the factory warranty had expired a few months prior, offered a 1 month coverall warranty. I opted to get the 6 year, 72k mile warranty that covers only drivetrain, transmission, engine, stuff like that (not windows, electronics, that stuff). This means that I don't have the warranty from the dealership anymore. Where am I now?

Wow. Can you say schiesters?

These clowns sold you a car, a warranty and now want you to pay for repairs!?!

I'd be so livid I don't think I could be in or near the dealership for fear of invoking judicial wrath upon myself... but I digress.

I did a quick search (Bentley Manual online) and the code is related to your transmission. The DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) is 18201 for the corresponding fault code.


18201 -- P1793 -- Output Speed Sensor 2 Circ. No Signal

First digit structure is as follows:

* Pxxxx for powertrain
* Bxxxx for body
* Cxxxx for chassis
* Uxxxx for future systems

Second digit structure is:

* P0xxx Government required codes
* P1xxx Manufacturer codes for additional emission system function; not required but reported to the government

Third digit structure is:

* Px1xx measurement of air and fuel
* Px2xx measurement of air and fuel
* Px3xx ignition system
* Px4xx additional emission control
* Px5xx speed and idle regulation
* Px6xx computer and output signals
* Px7xx transmission
* Px8xx transmission
* Px9xx control modules, input and output signals

The fourth and fifth digits designate the individual components and systems.

Myself, I see this as a case of a sale in bad faith. Can you prove the problem was pre-existing? If so you can make them fix it. Threaten to sue if they get ornery. And back it up if they play hardball, in all seriousness.

Else, you have to go through your warranty company.

Good news is, it will be covered. Bad news is, unless you can prove it was sold with the problem as a pre-existing issue, you're limited to the 3rd-party warranty and their (likely faulty/frustrating) claims department/policies.

Good luck, and be sure to ask any lingering or new questions you may have!