Ok to replace "plug" style coilpacks with bolt down style?

**lookaught** · 06-20-2008 07:38 PM

I replaced all four ORIGINAL (with 84,000 miles) with newer E coilpacks about two months ago. The old style were the "plug" that just popped in and out. The new style that I installed are bolt down with a small o-ring.

My valve cover is obviously not mean for this style, as the casting is not flat where the o-ring is supposed to seat against the metal. Have others just replaced the coilpacks and accepted this fit? What about water leaking in? The motor is pretty damn dry b/c of the heat and weather stripping, but it concerns me. Just hoping to hear some other experiences. I could always machine down the VC (I have a mill) but dont want to waste my time if I dont need to, nor do I want to remove material and then have the CPs not fit b/c the clearance is too tight.

Also, my engine cover doesnt fit anymore, so I left it off. Maybe I'll get out the dremel and make it work.

Thanks!

**A4_Mike** · 06-20-2008 07:48 PM

That is strange. If I understand your post correctly, you're explaining that the Hitachi E ignition coils do not fit well with your engine?

I replaced my original ignition coils as well with the Hitachi E ignition coils and everything fits perfectly. The engine's exterior layout matched perfectly snug with the coils and the engine cover fit right back on.

**sloweryucf** · 06-20-2008 08:53 PM

Same as Mike. No problems. Did you get the wrong part?

**jrau13** · 06-20-2008 08:58 PM

Originally Posted by A4_Mike

That is strange. If I understand your post correctly, you're explaining that the Hitachi E ignition coils do not fit well with your engine?

I replaced my original ignition coils as well with the Hitachi E ignition coils and everything fits perfectly. The engine's exterior layout matched perfectly snug with the coils and the engine cover fit right back on.

Same here. Been running the "E" coils for some time now with no issues or fitment.

**lookaught** · 06-21-2008 08:22 AM

Like the saying goes, a picture is worth a thousand words:

This is a pic that I stole from a dougyfresh post. I htink the motor is from a 225hp TT transverse. Notice the shiny, milled outline of the coilpacks so that they fit perfectly flush and the o-ring can seal properly? This is what my car does NOT have.

This are a few shots of my engine.
The cover no longer fits b/c the wires extending to the bottom of the VC are now longer than before, so the bottom edge wont align properly:

Closeup of how the cp fits when bolted down. Notice that ridge of aluminum?

Another shot showing all four

With the cp removed, here you can see the difference b/w my car that came with plug style and the TT motor that came with bolt down from the factory:

What the bottom of the cp that I have looks like. Totally flat, no indents to fit snug b/c of the ridge on the VC:

Finally, the part number of the cp itself:

Ok, how about some thoughts? The pics suck b/c I couldnt use a flash and was holding the camera for 1/4 second exposures.

Thanks!

**arktctr** · 06-21-2008 08:52 AM

Mine fit the same way...

**tank8677** · 06-21-2008 01:31 PM

^^ Mine Fits Nice And The Engine Cover Goes Right On..thats Weird!!!!

**diagnosticator** · 06-22-2008 02:38 PM

You can run the E coilpacks as is, there is no need to mill the VC. Water won't be a problem. If you prefer, you can get some EDPM weather strip, and run it around the coilpack to conform to the VC better, that would keep any sprayed water out. It's totally optional.

BTW, the E coils should be run with the ignition timing advanced because the dynamic dwell or coil energized time, as determined by the ECU, has a different actual magnetic induction response, the effect causes the ignition timing to be retarded a few degrees despite the ECU's control actions. This is why the E coils have a smoother idle, but more important, the engine has a bit less torque with the E coils if the the ignition timing offset at zero degrees. Use Lemmiwinks or Unisettings to add a few degrees advanced ignition timing offset.

**jrau13** · 06-22-2008 02:46 PM

Originally Posted by diagnosticator

You can run the E coilpacks as is, there is no need to mill the VC. Water won't be a problem. If you prefer, you can get some EDPM weather strip, and run it around the coilpack to conform to the VC better, that would keep any sprayed water out. It's totally optional.

BTW, the E coils should be run with the ignition timing advanced because the dynamic dwell or coil energized time, as determined by the ECU, has a different actual magnetic induction response, the effect causes the ignition timing to be retarded a few degrees despite the ECU's control actions. This is why the E coils have a smoother idle, but more important, the engine has a bit less torque with the E coils if the the ignition timing offset at zero degrees. Use Lemmiwinks or Unisettings to add a few degrees advanced ignition timing offset.

That's the first I've heard of this. I run the E coils so your saying I would benefit from advancing my timing a few degrees?

**doublezero30** · 06-22-2008 03:51 PM

^^same. ive had E coils in my last 2 a4s. no problems so far?

**diagnosticator** · 06-22-2008 03:53 PM

Originally Posted by jrau13

That's the first I've heard of this. I run the E coils so your saying I would benefit from advancing my timing a few degrees?

Yes, that is correct.

**diagnosticator** · 06-22-2008 03:58 PM

Originally Posted by doublezero30

^^same. ive had E coils in my last 2 a4s. no problems so far?

Running the E coilpacks in a B6 and stock ignition timing offset of zero, isn't a problem per se. For a comparison of the torque difference, install a set of the OEM B6 115 J,L,N or R coilpacks.

The only way to run the E coils and compensate for the difference in dynamic dwell angle, as effects ignition timing, is to add some advanced timing offset.