front crankshaft seal

[generationjdm]

Who's ever had 1 leak? Mine seems to been leaking, replacing it seems like a bitch.

Who's ever replaced one, how hard is taking of the timing gear thats pressed to the crankshaft?

[The_Jerbel]

Not hard at all. Just use a gear puller...

[Daft]

The crank bolt has a 24mm 12point head. If you have the TDC pin screwed in, you should be able to crack it loose with some moderate force. Once the bolt is off, the crank sprocket should come right off. Just be careful not to crack the keyway in the sprocket or the crankshaft, that would be a mess for sure. When I bought all my timing parts last month, there was a sheet in the box explaining that many people have broken the key on the back of the sprocket...not sure how they are doing it. Maybe they didn't get the key seated before torquing it down?

As for the seals, you can either rent/buy the crazy looking seal remover or there's the homemade version that I use:

Take a small self tapping screw (1/8th inch) and drive it halfway into the seal's face. Then take a pair of vise grip pliers and lock them on the screw head. Pull the seal out. Takes a couple good tugs.

Tap the new seal into place with a large diameter socket and a small hammer till it's flush. Seat the sprocket carefully and hand thread the crank bolt all the way to snug. I can't remember the torque spec.

I recall it being like 45lb ft with a 90degree turn past the click but, I'll have to look it up in the morning though to be 100% sure.

[The_Jerbel]

LOL, I guess I gave the simple version

Good post, Brett. Just to add a little to what he said....
Once you've got the bolt out of the crankshaft, use a 2 or 3 jaw gear puller to pull the pulley. haha "puller to pull the pulley" lol

There are a few ways to pull seals, you can use a thin, flat head screwdriver and a mallet and pry them out, use the screw in the seal method (like Daft said), use the actual seal puller tool, etc. To seat new seals, you can either use a socket, or use a large flathead (with the blade of the screwdriver perpendicular to the seal) to drive it in.

DON'T DAMAGE the sealing surface of the block (which touches the outer surface of the seal)

The torque spec on the crank bolt is 200nm + 180*

[generationjdm]

I pulled the bolt out and the gear just dropped right off... I should be putting the motor back next week...

[Daft]

I pulled the bolt out and the gear just dropped right off... I should be putting the motor back next week...

Yeah man, just like I said it would. I'm not sure why Jerbel needed a puller..

[OldYella]

I tried getting the crankshaft pully off and it was a be-yotch. I left it on bc if it aint broke, dont fix it. *Knock on wood*

[The_Jerbel]

Yeah man, just like I said it would. I'm not sure why Jerbel needed a puller..

Sometimes it can take some convincing...

[Daft]

I tried getting the crankshaft pully off and it was a be-yotch. I left it on bc if it aint broke, dont fix it. *Knock on wood*

Yes the pulley can be a bit tight around the crank sprocket bolt.

The part that Genjdm and I were referring to was the crank sprocket.

The sprocket is located underneath the pulley and the black cover.

[OldYella]

Yes the pulley can be a bit tight around the crank sprocket bolt.

The part that Genjdm and I were referring to was the crank sprocket.

The sprocket is located underneath the pulley and the black cover.

Yep, thats the same one i was talking about. I think it was because i had a slight waterpump leak and it was rusted on there pretty good. So i just left it alone.

[Dcass08]

I have an B7 S4 4.2 with a bad front crankshaft seal. How musch stuff has to come off before I get down to it?

[mjb0023]

Ive done it twice. its not too hard. just make sure you don't get the oem seal. get the rubber seal.

[Das General]

They are a pain in the ass to replace. A.) A bitch to get to, and B.) A bitch to put on properly. Similarly to the rear main seal in the way the seal must not fold over itself.